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(Topic ID: 267184)

Pinsider DumbAss and his / my new 16 opto board!!!


By Xtraball

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Xtraball
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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18
#1 5 months ago

A quick review: I was having an issue with my STTNG. Had a couple optos not working intermittently, 12v lite wasn’t lit on the 16 switch opto board mounted under the playfield. Sent it on April 3rd to a fellow Pinsider located 6 states away for repair. USPS lost it. Only places stocking it are overseas. No way was I going to take a another chance on shipping one in, especially with the virus situation. My STTNG had just become a $4500+/- boat anchor.

Enter DumbAss, he hails from Washington State. He made this for me, part# A-16998 Williams 16 switch opto board! The price was more than right and I am now playing my perfectly working STTNG in 3 days (used UPS this time). The quality of this board is second to none and he makes other Williams boards too. Now listen, I know there’s a large need for this opto board and other boards too, don’t let his Pinside name fool you. Send a message to DumbAss, buy his board, support a fellow Pinsider. You will not regret it! Can’t thank you enough Victor.
Scott

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#2 5 months ago

Beautiful!

#3 5 months ago

Impressive, looks great and fast build!

Woulda been funny if he put his pinside name on the board somehow

#4 5 months ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

Enter DumbAss,

Suggestions for DumbAss:
1) Put vent holes in the PCB so those ?2W? led resistors can breath / cool better. Right under the resistors so convection heating of the resistors draws cool air up from behind the board. Looking at that layout; it should be very easy to put large holes under those resistors. The side effect is those resistors should stay cool; and reduce solder joint cracking.
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2) If you're laying those power resistors directly on the PCB; don't. Put at least a 10th of an inch between the PCB and the resistor's "bottom". Similar effect to 1); but both would be ideal.

#5 5 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

1) Put vent holes in the PCB so those ?2W? led resistors can breath / cool better. Right under the resistors so convection heating of the resistors draws cool air up from behind the board. Looking at that layout; it should be very easy to put large holes under those resistors. The side effect is those resistors should stay cool; and reduce solder joint cracking.

Firstly ... thanks for the feedback. Any and all feedback is welcome as I'm pretty much doing it all myself at the moment.

Passive convective cooling is what's happening here. There are two drawbacks (that I can immediately think of) to putting (big) holes like you've suggested.

1) You can no longer use the board space for traces.
2) The more holes (and bigger ones) that are put in the board the weaker it becomes.

When working on boards everything is a trade-off. There are two small holes for a 0.5W resistor that overlays with the 2W resistor.

Quoted from Zitt:

2) If you're laying those power resistors directly on the PCB; don't. Put at least a 10th of an inch between the PCB and the resistor's "bottom". Similar effect to 1); but both would be ideal.

I built the board with about a 1/8" gap between the body of the 2W resistor and the board for convection. I do this with all power (heat dissipating) resistors on new boards and when I re-work an existing board.

#6 5 months ago

I doubt this board needs the strength FR4 provides. It's your design; but I honestly think convection holes in the board would be a good idea. I saw the backside of the design (posted above); and in most cases the holes would have zero impact to the traces.

#7 5 months ago

With metal brackets from Marco, here it is all completed.

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