Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Excuse me for being a noob but if I want to start riveting new faces on drop targets and repairing metal guides that have broken loose what would you recommend I get?
I’ve been meaning to buy one from you guys for a while and it seems to be now or never!
What’s the “restorers essentials” pack? My collection ranges from the 60s to modern
Start with the Master Rivet Kit. With that you can hand-fit different size rivets until you get the ~1/16" protrusion needed for a good crimp.
Then you can get by with a Rivet Rollover Punch if you are VERY careful. The first time I broke an unobtanium plastic by riveting it with a punch was when I decided to make a press.
An upgrade from the punch is the Rivet Press. If you have access to a drill press you can probably build your own with an arbor press from Harbor Fright. The trickiest operation in making a press is drilling a 3/16" hole in the end of the press ram. I do them on my lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. On a drill press you need to use a drill press vise and a square to be sure the ram is perpendicular to the table. Perpendicular is very important because the rivet die shoulder needs to sit flush with the end of the ram. The uneven forces at play from setting rivets with the die sticking out at an angle can break the mounting peg off the die.
If this seems excessive, I'm still building them this month and maybe next.
An upgrade for your press would be the Extra Long Rivet Dies. These allow you to replace one of the press dies with its XL counterpart. That will get you into most tight spots like on the flange of a plastic ramp.
Lastly, you could add a Die Holding Punch to turn your press dies into Rollover Punches for those jobs where the press just won't fit. Another add-on would be the rivets not included in the Master Rivet Kit;
1/8" This shortest size is usually only needed on metal-to-metal rivet jobs.
1/2" (steel) For switch stacks
9/16" (steel) For switch stacks
Hope That Helps,
Scot