(Topic ID: 127652)

Pinbot won't raise his ramp for me =(

By kjbolin

8 years ago


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  • 36 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by kjbolin
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

Hi everyone,

I picked up a Pinbot last month as my first pin and everything was working great until last week (after disassembling, cleaning and waxing the playfield) at some point the solenoid that raises the ramp stopped working. I didn't even realize it until the startup diagnostic told me a few days ago that switches for ramp down and the energy target hadn't been triggered. I manually triggered the switches and they worked fine, and after going through the solenoid tests the one that lowers the ramp is working but the one that raises it (I think it's solenoid 5a in the manual) does not.

Being a complete noob at this I'm not sure what to do next. I've looked at the wiring and having noticed anything out of the ordinary around the solenoid, I've pushed in on all the connectors in the backbox in case something had come loose. I got a cheap multimeter and tried figuring out how to use it. It seems like there's power going to the solenoid, but I'm not 100% positive since I have no confidence in my skill at using the DMM.

Is it likely that the solenoid just needs replaced? Or is it more likely that there's some other issue? Every other issues I've seen on the forums regarding solenoid problems usually have something to do with capacitors or fuses or something, but they're also usually bigger problems like multiple solenoids acting up.

Thanks for any helpful advice!

#2 8 years ago

I would bet on an issue at the coil lugs.

Bad solder joint - even if it looks good. Or see the thin wires coming off the coil to the coil lugs ? One of them is cracked or broke. You have to dig around them sometimes to find it. Small screw driver works good.

LTG : )™

#3 8 years ago

I was wondering about that. Seemed like I was getting some reading off of the solder joints but not off the thin wires. I'll take another look when I get home.

Thanks!

#4 8 years ago

You mentioned you disassembled the pin for shopping. Did you overtighten that nut that holds the ramp onto the plunger?

I shopped a bot years ago and remember that thing. If it's too tight it will cause an issue. Just something to check. I think this may be more mechanical than electrical, but then again, the lowering of the ramp works.. just not the raising. Check for something binding.

#5 8 years ago

I did disassemble the arm that raises the ramp when I did the cleaning, but I'm not at sure where there would be any mechanical binding. I can manipulate the mechanism from the arm going to the ramp or by gently pulling down on the actuator part of the solenoid. I am wondering if I was supposed to place the pin from the arm inside the metal rail attached to the underside of the ramp though. Apparently I just sat it on top of it.

image.jpgimage.jpg
#6 8 years ago

That's your issue.

That side arm needs to ride inside the ramp slot.

#7 8 years ago

Man I hope that's it. That'd be such an easy fix. Gonna fix that as soon as I get home. My wife keeps pulling me away from the machine for ridiculous things like baby doctor appointments and condo closings

#8 8 years ago

No worries. That's it.

And take care of your wife first man. Pinball second. Trust me.

#9 8 years ago

I know, only kidding.

Thanks so much for the help!

#10 8 years ago

I just got home a bit ago and slid the arm into the ramp, but that didn't solve the issue with the solenoid. It's still not even attempting to fire when I run through the coil tests. I also didn't see any obvious breaks in the little wires coming off the lugs, but I think I'd need to remove the assembly to get a better look.

rail.jpgrail.jpg Solenoid side.jpgSolenoid side.jpg Solenoid Under.jpgSolenoid Under.jpg
#11 8 years ago

Is the coil receiving power? Test it w a multimeter. Should be getting voltage.

#12 8 years ago

You can short lug on the non banded side of the diode to ground to trigger the coil without the switch. If this works your coil itself is good and your problem is in the wire or driver circuit.

#13 8 years ago

Viagra!

#14 8 years ago

I'm fairly certain it's getting power. I used a multimeter on it and it looked like the reading was the same as when I tested the coil that drives the "ramp down" function. It was my first time using a multimeter, and I don't have an auto-ranging meter so I was doing a lot of guess work to find the correct range, but I did get a reading on whatever setting I used when I touched both tips to the lugs.

As for shorting the lug, is the non-banded side the left side in that bottom picture? It looks like the diode has three stripes, but one of them is just silver, so I'm guessing that's it. What's the best way to short it? Sorry, I'm extremely green at this.

#15 8 years ago

Does it try to kick up at all? I had kind if the same issue and found out that the arm would hit the play field plastic and not work after that. I had to trim the plastic a bit and adjust the arm and not it works just like it should.

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Does it try to kick up at all? I had kind if the same issue and found out that the arm would hit the play field plastic and not work after that. I had to trim the plastic a bit and adjust the arm and not it works just like it should.

No, the solenoid doesn't make any noise at all when going through the coil test. There's 0 movement or sound.

#17 8 years ago

Are you able to determine if it is a mechanical binding problem or a electrical problem. Can you manually grab the coil plunger and move it up and down? And does that move the ramp up and down ok or does it bind?

If that is fine, then in solenoid test mode, does that move the ramp up and down ok?

#18 8 years ago

No, there's no mechanical binding. The coil plunger moves up and down if I gently move it from either the plunger or if I move the arm that raises the ramp. During the coil test the ramp goes down (if I've raised it to the "up" position manually) but there's 0 response from the solenoid when it tries to trigger the "ramp up" test during coil tests.

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from WonkoTSane:

You can short lug on the non banded side of the diode to ground to trigger the coil without the switch. If this works your coil itself is good and your problem is in the wire or driver circuit.

I tried taking one of the leads from my multimeter, touching one end to the ground wire going around the cabinet and one end to the lug on the non-banded side (the one with only one wire going to it) and nothing happened. But I also tried doing it to the smaller coil that operates the "ramp down" function and it still did nothing. Should I be trying this with the machine in play mode? I did it while the machine was in attract mode, and I know the flippers don't work when it's not "in play." I have to be doing something wrong if the "ramp down" coil didn't fire because that one is working during coil test mode and during game play.

#20 8 years ago
Quoted from kjbolin:

No, there's no mechanical binding. The coil plunger moves up and down if I gently move it from either the plunger or if I move the arm that raises the ramp. During the coil test the ramp goes down (if I've raised it to the "up" position manually) but there's 0 response from the solenoid when it tries to trigger the "ramp up" test during coil tests.

The ramp down coil is just a magnet that moves a catch out of the way so the ramp can "fall" back down. It works independently from the up coil, which is why if you physically move the ramp to its up position the ramp down works.

If the ramp up coil is not firing in the coil test I would suspect a coil, wiring, or driver circuit problem. If it were mechanically bound in some way it would still fire and try to move.

Quoted from kjbolin:

Should I be trying this with the machine in play mode? I did it while the machine was in attract mode, and I know the flippers don't work when it's not "in play." I have to be doing something wrong if the "ramp down" coil didn't fire because that one is working during coil test mode and during game play.

I would put it in coil test mode and select the up ramp coil on repeat to test it, see if its getting voltage.

Read this:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

The ramp down coil is just a magnet that moves a catch out of the way so the ramp can "fall" back down. It works independently from the up coil, which is why if you physically move the ramp to its up position the ramp down works.
If the ramp up coil is not firing in the coil test I would suspect a coil, wiring, or driver circuit problem. If it were mechanically bound in some way it would still fire and try to move.

I would put it in coil test mode and select the up ramp coil on repeat to test it, see if its getting voltage.
Read this:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil

Thanks, I went ahead and put the up ramp coil on repeat and had to readjust my multimeter, and it was definitely getting voltage. I kept the lead in place on the lug and when I moved the test on to the next coil it dropped significantly.

#22 8 years ago

I would bet on an issue at the coil lugs.

Bad solder joint - even if it looks good. Or see the thin wires coming off the coil to the coil lugs ? One of them is cracked or broke. You have to dig around them sometimes to find it. Small screw driver works good.

#23 8 years ago

Try a new coil.

#24 8 years ago

Remember this happened after he shopped it

I still say something is bindin.

#25 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I would bet on an issue at the coil lugs.
Bad solder joint - even if it looks good. Or see the thin wires coming off the coil to the coil lugs ? One of them is cracked or broke. You have to dig around them sometimes to find it. Small screw driver works good.

It is not lost on me that this has been a long, circuitous journey leading right back to your original post. =)

#26 8 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Remember this happened after he shopped it
I still say something is bindin.

If it were binding wouldn't the solenoid still make an attempt to engage? Like, wouldn't some amount of movement or noise be detectable? And the actuator moves if I move it with my finger.

I was thinking the same thing you were because I just shopped it and it seemed most likely that I did something to it in the process.

#27 8 years ago
Quoted from kjbolin:

seemed most likely that I did something to it in the process.

We are blaming you. Don't worry.

LTG : )™

#28 8 years ago

Do this: pop the pf up. Activate the coil in test on repeat. Carefully jiggle the wiring to the coil and see if you get it to fire. If so, LTG is on to something

#29 8 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Do this: pop the pf up. Activate the coil in test on repeat. Carefully jiggle the wiring to the coil and see if you get it to fire. If so, LTG is on to something

I did this, nothing happened. Then I messed around with it some more, put it back into diagnostic mode, then I tried manually activating the solenoid (this time in diagnostic mode instead of attract mode) by connecting the ground to the lug, and it fired. So I guess it's not the solenoid.

#30 8 years ago

Could this be transistor related?

#31 8 years ago

I

Quoted from Blackbeard:Could this be transistor related?

After everything I've read today that was the next thing I was thinking. I'm assuming I'm looking for the "Driver Trans." that I see on the Solenoid Table in the manual. Looks like it's designated Q31. I'm combing through the PDF of the manual on IPDB to see where to go from here.

#32 8 years ago

Ground the metal tab on top of that transistor.

If it fires the coil, then the transistor or something upstream going the other direction has an issue.

If grounding the tab doesn't fir the transistor, then from the transistor legs to and including the coil, you have a break in continuity.

LTG : )™

#33 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Ground the metal tab on top of that transistor.
If it fires the coil, then the transistor or something upstream going the other direction has an issue.
If grounding the tab doesn't fir the transistor, then from the transistor legs to and including the coil, you have a break in continuity.
LTG : )™

The coil fired when I grounded the transistor from the metal tab. So does that mean I should replace the transistor? Or could the problem still be somewhere else?

#34 8 years ago

I'd start with the transistor. Easiest to do.

LTG : )™

#35 8 years ago

Okay, that's where I'll start. The scan of the manual isn't great on the CPU parts page, but it LOOKS like the transistor is part TIP122. I'll order a few and see if I can do this without breaking anything else.

Thanks so much for the help!

1 week later
#36 8 years ago

Resolved. Replacing the Q31 transistor did the trick. Thanks to everyone who replied and helped me figure this out!

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