I would check switches 46 visor closed & 47 visor open - in diagnostics.

I had a similar issue when the switch matrix lost part of row seven.

Williams_Pinbot_Tech_Chart.pdf

Start by posting a pic of the 2 switches, then look for a broken wire on the switches. Check the switch adjustment for each one. Lastly test each diode on each of the 2 switches.

The switches do not turn off the motor, the Cpu board turns off the the relay which stops the motor. The switches tell the Cpu board if the targets are up or down. If the Cpu doesn't think the targets are down it will keep running to get them down. You need to do a switch test and manually trigger the up and down switch and see if the Cpu board recognizes when you close the switch. If the Cpu board sees when the switches are closed then they must be out of adjustment.

Go on pinball database. Get the manual. Enter switch test. Trigger those switches manually.
Then visibly check the wires on those switches. Remove that tape and check the solider joints.
Then check continuity to the plug in the head with. Multimeter also check for broken wires in the insulation if kinked and check bad pin connection.

The only reason it would be running all the time is one or both of those switches aren't working.

And also what is this thing sticking in the switch? A piece of wire or spring?
Is it maybe not closing?

Screenshot_20180310-011201 (resized).png

You can see in the video he posted that the switches are registering.

The problem is the relay board was changed to a snubber board relay.
It has to be either C-11232-1 or C-11232-2 relay board.

Good eye, that maybe the only thing wrong.

Pretty sure you're onto it right there. As far as I can tell, that Great Lakes Modular aftermarket snubber is compatible with C-11232. In the application notes that does not include PinBot on the compatibility list.

Another maker of a similar product (PinScore) had some disclaimers about their C-11232 replacement, saying, "The C-11232R board is the same as the original C-11232 board. Both are also the same as the C-11232-1, but C-11232R and C-11232 have 3 additional electronic components installed on the board- specifically, C1 capacitor, R1 resistor, and D2 diode. C-11232/R will work in place of C-11232-1 in most applications, but if any operational problems are present with using a C-11232/R in place of a C-11232-1, the 3 extra parts can be removed from the C-11232/R board to make it functionally identical to a C-11232-1"

The specific info there may/may not be exactly useful in this since the replacement parts aren't the same exact design, but at least sheds some light on the fact that this replacement snubber may not be appropriate for this job. I wouldn't go hacking the replacement board hoping it will work; I would try to get an original snubber board and sell the replacement to someone that can use it.

Richard

For what it's worth,

C-11232 is fully populated - relay, capacitor C1, diodes D1 and D2, and resistor R1
C-11232-1 has relay and diode D1, no other components or jumpers
C-11232-2 has relay, 0.1 uF C1, diode D1, and R1 is simply a 0 ohm resistor (essentially a jumper)

My PinBot's snubber board label is long gone but C-11232-2 is what is in my properly functioning game.

Richard

If you think this is the problem then cut the brown/green wire off. If the motor keep running then the relay is bad. If the motor stops then it is a switch or CPU problem.

I installed a snubber board relay on my Pinbot once, hoping to fix a problem I was having when the visor stopped.
The visor ran constantly with snubber board relay installed.

Do what Grumpy suggested and disconnect the brown/green to know for sure.

The only place I have ever seen the C-11232-1 relays for sale, is used on Ebay.

Would it be possible to simply replace the parts on the existing board? It doesn't look to be anything that can't be sourced through great plains electronics: a relay, a cap, a couple diodes, and a resistor. I may be way off here, but it looks like ordinary components (though I'm not sure about the relay, if it is special in some way)... Anyone know if these can be rebuilt?

Ahhh, gotcha. Sorry bout that! If i come across one, I'll keep you in mind.

Reread post #18.

Then you will need to remove the relay. Then you will need to remove the resistor and cap and possibly a diode from the board. Then you will need to wire it differently then it is now, but I would need to see a very good pic of both sides for me to be sure on the wiring as this is not an original board. This board was first made as a snubber relay board by Williams and then it was repurposed as an AC relay board. Yours is configured as a snubber relay board now. Post the pics after you remove it and I can help you more.

I have C-11232-1 relay board, the case has a hole in the top it though, it works fine. You can have it if you want it.

Like I said earlier the snubber relay board will not work for the visor motor, the ac power that runs the motor backfeeds through the resistor and cap and the motor runs continuously.

relay (resized).jpg

Yes, nothing special here.

Great Lakes Modular also has one for sale:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/sy11srb.html

Bump bump

So this machine found its way into my basement, I am getting it working for a friend. So when I got it, the visor wasn't moving at all. I opened the gearbox up and sure enough one of the gears had popped off the shaft. I pressed it back in place and epoxied the hell out of it and let it sit for a few days before reinstalling it into the machine. In addition, I ended up switching the two black wires on the relay board in question and everything seems to be working now.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this fix. It will allow me to continue this charade that I know what I'm doing!