Full Pinbot Restoration ongoing!


By Plumonium

1 year ago


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There are 169 posts in topic. You are on page 2 of 4.
#51 11 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Looking good! Cant wait till I get that far on my F-14. How did you get the ground braid connected to washer? Also what stapler did you use for ground braid?

Thanks buddy!

The ground braid is actually a tube, so just slide the tip of the terminal inside and solder letting it pour inside the braid.

I used a 22 gauge air stapler from amazon.
amazon.com link »

It was not expensive and works well. Strong and steady. 2 things though, people recommended get the long nose one but it's like a 100$ more. I wished I had the long nose for some location in corners and tight space but I manage to do a pretty clean job with it. Also it does not have a guide so make sure you are centered before pulling the trigger. Not sure if other staplers have a guide but I saw in some high end resto that some staples were a little off as well so not a big deal I think.

Like others said to me, if you plan doing lot of cab resto and playfield swaps, get the long nose. I'm not regretting my purchase yet. Way better than a hand stapler for sure.

1 week later
#52 10 months ago

Enough with the pretty stuff, now to the dirty stuff.

While I'm waiting for my extended leg bolts to put the cab on its legs and mount the head, I got the playfield on the rotisserie. Man it's easier to work on a game on that thing as opposed to inside the cabinet...

I'm taking pictures before I remove the plastics and after I do, from every angle. I'm deep cleaning all hardware and plastic before storing in individual compartments. I'm labeling each by sections. I'm cleaning the plastic even though I'm installing a new set, they are going to be stored. I'm also cleaning the screws, bolts and nuts as it saves the tumbling media from all that dirt.

See how those metal guides are dirty, dripping brown stuff.

Going well, good progress. Next time I'll do the lift ramp and start tackling the underside. I'm keeping the posts for last on the top side.

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#53 10 months ago

I got a repro vortex from last PPS batch. I heard before that I would need to take out my dremel tool and I did. First the vortex would not sit flat on the playfield, it would touch and hang from the metal lanes underneath. So I had to grind a slot to make it fit.
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Second, the ramp flap entry would not be flush to the playfield. I grinded a slot to let the plastic attaching to the flap free and heated the plastic tap to bend it down. Perfect flat flush now!
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Third, the ramp to the vortex was too narrow at one spot and the ball would get stuck. Doh! Again, heated the ramp SLIGHTLY and bent towards the outside. Enough room for the ball all the way around. Perfect!
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So yeah, those repro are great but not perfect!

#54 10 months ago

Wow! It looks like you are doing a fantastic job. I too am in the middle of re-painting my PinBot cabinet (actually I was done, but....) I am about to re-sand my cabinet and purchase new stencils. I did not know about Pinball Pimp when I ordered mine and the quality of what I bought vs Pinball Pimp's is night and day. I too had the bleeding and peeling and it was almost impossible to get the 2 colors lined up which doesn't look to be a problem with the marks of Pinball Pimps. So needless to say I am not happy with mine and touching it up will just make it worse.

One thing I do have done is my CPR play field swap and it looks beautiful. Everything else has been tumbled, cleaned and painted so it's time to strip down the cabinet again or it will bug the crap out of me forever.....

Good Luck on yours and I will be following some of your advice.

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#55 10 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I got a repro vortex from last PPS batch. I heard before that I would need to take out my dremel tool and I did. First the vortex would not sit flat on the playfield, it would touch and hang from the metal lanes underneath. So I had to grind a slot to make it fit.

Second, the ramp flap entry would not be flush to the playfield. I grinded a slot to let the plastic attaching to the flap free and heated the plastic tap to bend it down. Perfect flat flush now!

Third, the ramp to the vortex was too narrow at one spot and the ball would get stuck. Doh! Again, heated the ramp SLIGHTLY and bent towards the outside. Enough room for the ball all the way around. Perfect!

So yeah, those repro are great but not perfect!

I had to grind much more that that. Looks like yours fit better. Looking good.

#56 10 months ago
Quoted from Insane:

I had to grind much more that that. Looks like yours fit better. Looking good.

Needless to say I was afraid to grind the whole way through or even the light from the GI underneath to bleed through. I could have grinded more but I'm happy how it sits now.

#57 10 months ago
Quoted from MarchAFB:

Wow! It looks like you are doing a fantastic job.

Thanks MarchAFB! Kudos to you to not dropping the ball and commiting to your restore. I understand sometime you just want to let it go but like you said if you are going to regret then go all in.

Congrats on the CPR swap. I looked around for a CPR but they were out of price (like $1200 US) forget it. Mine is dirty of course but in decent shape.

If I decide to remove the mylar it's going to be repaint and clearcoat which in itself is another big undertaking. I already feel I got knee deep in the resto anyway...

Will keep you posted.

#58 10 months ago

Oh yeah, I ordered a bunch of cliffy posts, switch protector and I got myself a new set or lane guides. Mines were all mashed up and the ball would not roll flat onto the flippers which is anoying as hell. I got the enhanced version and the craftsmanship is at least as good as the factory. Looking forward to see how they fit.

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#59 10 months ago

Removed and clean the through feeder. Looking better I think.

Funny how you are proud of taking apart, cleaning, polishing and re-assembling something nobody except you will ever see...

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#60 10 months ago

Man - you have done a really nice job of cleaning up the metal on everything. It looks like you made your own decal\replacement sticker sheet? I did the same (I love color laser printers), I scanned in the originals and cleaned up the artwork. I also did the artwork for the Williams Serial # tags.

A few things I did on mine and just a thought for you - My clear lift ramp (Adv "X") on the left and the clear spiral vortex ramp were so yellowed and scratched, I made my own replacements for these. Also if you are going to replace the white pop bumper bases with new ones, you will need to shorten the top where the cap attaches otherwise the clear mini play field will not lay down correctly on the posts.

Also I am curious as to how to new speaker sounds as I didn't think to replace mine, but now you have me thinking about it.

Keep up the updates!

#61 10 months ago
Quoted from MarchAFB:

Man - you have done a really nice job of cleaning up the metal on everything. It looks like you made your own decal\replacement sticker sheet? I did the same (I love color laser printers), I scanned in the originals and cleaned up the artwork. I also did the artwork for the Williams Serial # tags.
A few things I did on mine and just a thought for you - My clear lift ramp (Adv "X") on the left and the clear spiral vortex ramp were so yellowed and scratched, I made my own replacements for these. Also if you are going to replace the white pop bumper bases with new ones, you will need to shorten the top where the cap attaches otherwise the clear mini play field will not lay down correctly on the posts.
Also I am curious as to how to new speaker sounds as I didn't think to replace mine, but now you have me thinking about it.
Keep up the updates!

There are 2 different height bumper bases. I ordered from Marco I think and got the correct height ones, no need to modify.

#62 10 months ago
Quoted from Insane:

There are 2 different height bumper bases. I ordered from Marco I think and got the correct height ones, no need to modify

Ordered from Marco as well, I'll compare and rectified as needed, thanks for the heads up.

#64 10 months ago
Quoted from MarchAFB:

It looks like you made your own decal\replacement sticker sheet? I did the same

I got them from someone else image files and just stitched them together on the same page. I added a protective film over the sticker page before cutting so they should last through time.

Quoted from MarchAFB:

My clear lift ramp (Adv "X") on the left and the clear spiral vortex ramp were so yellowed and scratched, I made my own replacements for these.

Yeah mine is pretty dull now, broken underneath a rivet, the Adv X sticker missing and the lower stainless steel flap is missing a corner.

How did you create you replacement, just cut some plexy the same shape? how do you get nice edges?

Quoted from MarchAFB:

Also I am curious as to how to new speaker sounds as I didn't think to replace mine

I tried it in my Diner and was not impress the the low range. My Pinbot woofer was punched in so I hope it sounds better. I'll report back when I'm done.

#65 10 months ago
Quoted from MarchAFB:

Also if you are going to replace the white pop bumper bases with new ones, you will need to shorten the top where the cap attaches otherwise the clear mini play field will not lay down correctly on the posts.

Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on this: Marco and Planetary Pinball both carry the correct shorter body, part #03-7443-5. Marco uses a plastic with something of a milky white translucency, whereas PP's bodies are more opaque, if just a hair on the ivory side. I find that the PP bodies' color is a closer match to new white pop bumper skirts, which are also ever so slightly ivory.

#66 10 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on this: Marco and Planetary Pinball both carry the correct shorter body, part #03-7443-5. Marco uses a plastic with something of a milky white translucency, whereas PP's bodies are more opaque, if just a hair on the ivory side. I find that the PP bodies' color is a closer match to new white pop bumper skirts, which are also ever so slightly ivory.

I got mine from PL and they were taller. Hopefully you don't have to modify, but not a big deal if needed.

#67 10 months ago

Yeah mine is pretty dull now, broken underneath a rivet, the Adv X sticker missing and the lower stainless steel flap is missing a corner.
How did you create you replacement, just cut some plexy the same shape? how do you get nice edges?

Yeah I just cut mine from acrylic and sanded the edges and buffed.

#68 10 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Just thought I'd throw in my two cents on this: Marco and Planetary Pinball both carry the correct shorter body, part #03-7443-5. Marco uses a plastic with something of a milky white translucency, whereas PP's bodies are more opaque, if just a hair on the ivory side. I find that the PP bodies' color is a closer match to new white pop bumper skirts, which are also ever so slightly ivory.

My skirts were blue, so that's what I replaced with. I thought they looked pretty good. My 2 cents... That's one thing I really like about some of this stuff, you can personalize it usually without doing anything that can't be undone...

3 weeks later
#69 9 months ago

Time for an update, stripping the top side is coming slowly but surely!

Ramps are getting regrained. Drop target assembly completely cleaned and tumbled. Chest inserts and board are cleaned, target are held in place with zip tie and coil are clean, shotgun sleeve replaced and coil wrapped new.

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#70 9 months ago

Motor assembly is getting taken apart and cleaned as well. A wire broke off, no biggy. Time to fix this and remove the electrical tape.

Flipper are getting rebuilt, cleaned and polished the base plate, new hardware, new OES with new wiring, same coil. I built little bracket to sandwich between the lane change and the OES switch to attach the newer style return spring, you can see them in the flipper final assembly picture at the bottom right.

Pop bumpers are completely redone tumbled, polished and new parts.

Kick out hole mechs are cleaned, tumbled and back together.

I'm currently tumbling my slingshot and next are my shooting lane feeder and ramp lift assembly. Then I'm done with mechs. All I'll have is to remove all the posts from the top side, the wire guides, unsolder a few flasher socket and finally remove the rails.

I'm still debating about what do to on the playfield and mylar... I will be at a crossroad soon.

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#71 9 months ago

Tomorrow morning, my friend is bringing me 3 boxes from Marco, Pinball Life and Titan that I had shipped to the US a while back. I also put in a huge order at Comet this thanksgiving week-end and Pinbot will get its share of it.

3 weeks later
#72 9 months ago

Time for an update a few picture and a story.

The game is back on its legs and I put the head on yesterday, see how it's look and take it off the floor.

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I continued taking care of the playfield and I stripped it completely. I also took the decision of removing the mylar. I'll touch up the playfield and clearcoat it. Which means many more months under restoration. But I'm so deep into it so I'm might just do it.

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I used the freezing spray method to remove it and the flour and alcohol to remove the glue. It's a pain to remove the glue clean but i'ts for the best I hope.

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The factory lacquer was still in pretty good shape and not much art got removed except near the chest lights, I might have gone light on freezing spray as well. Anyway, all those color are going to be airbrushed.

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I never done airbrush but need to get into in. But first I need to find a place to get a place to base clearcoat in winter here in Canada. I'll call a few paint shops see if they can get me in while they do other pieces to try to get it cheap.

Overall the playfield is in very good shape. The worst planking where the paint is slightly lifting is near the left outlane, the chest area like I said and around the pops where the factory mylar was placed sloppily. The clear also lifted from over the Xball insert which will need a new decal of some sort. I might ask my wife to hand draw it since she has a pretty steady hand, we'll see.

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Meanwhile, I cleaning my board and ready to put back inside the head. I'm also tumbling more parts like actuators, pivots and all posts and wire guides.

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#73 9 months ago

About that story. I tried my lock down bar to see how it fitted. I did not want it to rub on the front of the cabinet near the corner so I crazy glued 2 pieces of felt to "protect" the beautiful paint job. I applied the glue deliberately which means way too much...

The glue had soaked in the felt and I tried the lockdown bar. I fitted great and left it there. It must have pressed the glue out and through to the wood, basically gluing the felt piece to the front of the cabinet. When I came back to it a few days later, the lockdown bar was glued pretty good but I just thought it was a tight squeeze. So I pulled.

Some paint came off, some wood came off.

I had to touch up the area and after spraying some clear it's pretty hard to see. Because it's under the lockdown bar it's invisible but still. I did not think I would need to take out the bondo at this stage.

Lesson learned. Like the 100th...

I spare you from posting picture of what it looked like but it was not pretty, to my eyes at least!

2 weeks later
#74 8 months ago

My playfield is off to someone who'll base clearcoat it. I trust him he'll do a good job.

Before that, I finished with some touch-ups. I sanded the shooter lane the best I can without removing too much material, I'll have to do some slight painting to get a more even finish. I patched a few holes and repaired kick-out holes. I also had to level all 5 triangle inserts (bonus "X" and special)

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I built a pretty neat transport box that we'll be used to level the playfield for CC as well. I cover any holes with tape, add bulbs to socket and cover all the underside underneath a plastic bag. Off it goes!

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See her in about 2-3 weeks.

In the meantime, I'll install my topper which the chromed tape is kinda scratched at a few places. I'll see what I do about that.

On another note, I talked to my brother about my cab woofer I replaced. I found out that it's not going to be an improvement but rather a downgrade because of the efficiency of the speaker. I did not know that. He recommend I either 1) use the old one which is perfect for the application, 2)get a "infinity baffle" speaker which will be more efficient that what I got, 3) get a small powered amp to add before the speaker to boost the signal and filter out higher frequency. I'll see what I do about that as well.

3 weeks later
#75 7 months ago

I got my playfield back from base clearcoat. It is sealed now and I can start the touch-ups. The clear really got into the cracks as my playfield was quite planked and dry. You can see in the pictures of what was the worst area. It is safe now.

The guy did some touch-ups particularly the black by using the wipe method to fill in the cracks before the CC. He also re-did some black line as well. It's already showing pretty much better.

I suspect the spray booth was quite dusty as there are lots of tiny speckles on the surface but as I'm going to sand flat before painting that is OK.

The shooter lane drank pretty much all the clear as expected.

I think it's going to look great when I'm done.

I received my moisture trap for the airbrush today and will sand in the next few days. About that, what grit you guys recommend for sanding? I read 400 up to 800 depending on who you ask to.

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#76 7 months ago

Looks great! Your PF is in MUCH better shape than mine.

#77 7 months ago

How to sand it?
Here is my method and advise.
If you are dry sanding by hand, or machine ( air powered DA sander) , 600-800 grit is probably a good grit. A grey scuff pad is good to get into cracks , saucer holes, and shooter lane, just to dull it. Just dull the pf really well. No shiny spots. Any finer and adhesion could be an issue. Any courser you might break through.
When I do restorations I clear initially with 2-3 coats, sand with 800 by machine to remove most dimples/insert leveling ,careful not to break through, reclear with 2 more coats, and flat sand to level it completely . Low spots will still be glossy, so you can tell when to stop sanding once all dull. Only if I get scared that I might break through, cause its real bad around the inserts, I clear it again with 2 more coats and sand again. Then start my art work touch ups. After I finish all of the art touch up, I clear it again with 2-3 coats and let it dry for a few days.
Then if it has dirt inclusion , ( trashy spraying environment) sand it with 1500,then 2000, then 3000, then polish with a buffer. Usually buffing 3000 grit is possible with just a polish , NOT A GRITTY RUBBING COMPOUND . Polish until its full gloss, as wax will not shine it up, keep polishing until it looks tits. (If you know you are going to have to sand and buff then 3 coats are a must )
If you don't have a trashy paint environment, and a super clean booth is available , I might just sand the last clearcoat lightly with 800 grit , just to dull it and reclear it with one or two coats for a final time.
Let it dry for a week before you populate it, so parts don't stick to it for a future teardown and to let it cure real good .
Wait a month to wax it , unless you use straight carnuba wax, and a week will be fine.
Good Luck, it's very rewarding to do one this way, I've done over a dozen System 11 era games and they all look better than new when done.
JP

#78 7 months ago

Oh, by the way... don't use a sharpie marker. It will run when he clears it. Paint pens have worked well for me, I usually try to use the waterborne ones.
Sorry I misspelled "advice" above
JP

#79 7 months ago

Hey Joey, thanks for the tips! Obviously I only went with 1 coat of base but I'm sure I can work off of that. Got my 800 grit sand paper tonight and a can of acrylic lacquer to seal colors as I go. You just keep spending on those full restoration...

#80 7 months ago

Keep us posted as you go along , and post up pictures .
Reach out privately if you have issues or questions along the way . This is sort of what I do for a living
Joey

1 week later
#81 7 months ago

My clearcoat was still too soft and fragile to start cutting frisket mask over it so I'm letting it cure some more. I should be ready about now so whenever I have time I'll attack the yellow area.

In the meantime, I cleaned the blue ramp. It was one of the first thing to come off and I just left it in my parts box. That thing was dirty. It came off like new it's amazing. I also went with the blue/red theme flasher dome colors even if I'm going to take the GI back to white only.

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#82 7 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

In the meantime, I cleaned the blue ramp. It was one of the first thing to come off and I just left it in my parts box. That thing was dirty. It came off like new it's amazing. I also went with the blue/red theme flasher dome colors even if I'm going to take the GI back to white only.

How did you get it to look so blue? My ramp is UV faded and it only looks blue under the plastic cover.

#83 7 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

How did you get it to look so blue?

Nothing special, I guess my Pinbot was in better than average condition to start with.

1 week later
#84 6 months ago

I did start my paint touch-ups this week. I've done my Yellow and Orange. It is my first ever experience using an airbrush so bare with me.

Yellow went well. I used Createx Opaque base yellow (6 bottles starter kit) and it came out as a pretty good match.

Orange went OK. The gun kept spitting paint and my guess is the paint was too thick for the needle (0.5mm) I used. I should probably try thinning the next time. The final result came out great but it took way too much time. I tried mixing the base red/yellow but was not satisfy and bought orange that I used it straight from the bottle as well. I also bought a different red because the base red has too much blue in in and won't cut it (according to my artsy wife).

You can see in the picture I only did the tail side of the special orange trail and the color match is pretty darn close.

The bulk of the work is still to frisket the areas and mask the rest of the playfield.

I bought a roll of 10" wide frisket of ebay (made in Korea) and it works great. It pulls out flawlessly giving a straight edge. Was way cheaper than my local art store. I'm getting pretty good with the xacto knife.

Next up is green and then blue. I keep red/gray for last and will finish up by white. Then the black key lines.

P.S. I hate my airbrush, it Chinese cheap crap and I'm about ready to bite the bullet and buy a decent Iwata gun.

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#85 6 months ago

I ordered mylsef a Iwata Revolution CR, looking forward to try it. I hear it's pretty good at shooting createx straight off the bottle.

#86 6 months ago

Got my Iwata yesterday and gave it a shot. I painted the green as a test since there is not a lot of it and it was already in pretty good shape. Only a few spot on the chest section but mostly the green orbit needed touch ups. Actually the left half of the playfield had more problems and you can see in the picture that other color orbits has black bleeding through.

I masked and cut the orbit the best I can without going crazy, I kind of free-handed the shape so it fills most of it and looks good from playing distance let's say.

All I need now it to repaint the few blacks dots that are incorporated in the orbit.

I'll probably do the same thing for the next colors as well. I'm amazed how small a band of frisket you can cut with the xacto knife and be able to pull away.

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#87 6 months ago

Next up, baby blue!

#88 6 months ago

Hope to see this in person when it's done. Good work !

#89 6 months ago
Quoted from Chnillapoil:

Hope to see this in person when it's done. Good work !

Cool thanks!

1 week later
#90 6 months ago

This week and this evening I did the dark blue and the light blue. They were both tricky to match but I'm very happy with the result.

There was a lot of light blue sections and they were a pain to mask and cutout. Especially around the left side near the lanes.

I had some frisket lift and overspray at some places but nothing a light sanding can't fix.

Next should be the red which will be tricky as well, huge sections at the top right corner.

Some before and after.

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#91 6 months ago

Also, I masked and painted the yellow around the credits between the flippers. I figured if I could match the color good enough I would not need to decal the text.

I still ordered a sheet of waterslide decal and prep the text in photoshop so I'll see if I decided to paint the whole thing again and do the water slide text over it.

For now it's look way better than before anyway.

Before and after:
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#92 6 months ago

If someone needs it, here it is:

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#93 6 months ago

The good thing about all the red, is a tom of it is covered up by the ramp, so if not 100% perfect, not a huge deal. looks great. Keep up the good work.

#94 6 months ago
Quoted from Insane:

The good thing about all the red, is a tom of it is covered up by the ramp, so if not 100% perfect, not a huge deal. looks great. Keep up the good work.

Thanks! Yes about the red, I'll also be redoing the red planet orbit and the most left burner near the chest which are more critical in terms of color match.

#95 6 months ago

I'll post a before and after pictures of the chest grid but this is what it looked like before.

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3 weeks later
#96 5 months ago

Time to update.

I'v done the red. It came out a little off but it's mostly hidden behind the spiral ramp and mini-playfield. The original was more on the pink side. Only place it would have been noticeable was the rocket engines in the middle. I'v redone the left one and when I realized my red was too much saturated, I mixed some more red and re-shoot this only before pulling out the frisket. I pulled the frisket elsewhere so be it. It's better night and day anyway.

I'm also done with my grey which were hard to match but it turned out really good. I'm done with the chest grid and it looks like new. Actually all I'm missing is the black lines which will be the last final step.

Next color is White. I'm very much looking forward because it's going to increase the contrast on the playfield. I expect to not go out the bottle white but a little off white to better match the original white since I won't redo all of it but surely all the GI sections plus a few other sections. With a bit of luck, I can tackle that tomorrow.

Before:
IMG_4464 (resized).JPG

After:
IMG_5412 (resized).JPG
IMG_5411 (resized).JPG
IMG_5413 (resized).JPG
IMG_5414 (resized).JPG

#97 5 months ago

Man good work so far. I really enjoyed all the pics! Congrats

#98 5 months ago

damn, that looks nice...

#99 5 months ago

Much appreciated!

#100 5 months ago

Luckily, I was able to tackle the white yesterday. Man does it make a difference!

I had some trouble with my frisket mask not sticking at a few places, it happens with larger pieces, which ended up with some slight over spray here and there but once cleaned up everything will be all right. It is not sticking super well on painted area but stick very well on original playfield area and over inserts.

All I'm missing is hand drawing the lettering on the "Lites Extra Ball" and do the BLACK. Also, I want to give my shooter lane a mist coat of wood tone beige to cover the deep dirt tracks.

I might do touch-ups like the orange planet orbit which I did not do first. But at this point I'm already super happy how this turned out.

Would I do that again? May be. Does it worth $1000 which what a new CPR runs in $cad. Yes!

I do plan to clean my shed and clearcoat myself using 2 parts Spraymax2k in a can when the temp warms up. I feel confident and will be much cheaper/faster that taking it to the clearcoat guy who did my seal coat.

Here a bunch of pictures before black and the white overspray fixes. We are getting somewhere.

IMG_5439 (resized).JPG
IMG_5441 (resized).JPG
IMG_5440 (resized).JPG
IMG_5442 (resized).JPG
IMG_5443 (resized).JPG
Before:
IMG_5093 (resized).JPG
After:
IMG_5444 (resized).JPG

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