Full Pinbot Restoration ongoing!


By Plumonium

11 months ago


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There are 111 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 11 months ago

Hi all!
I just started my Pinbot restoration this week-end. I received my stencils this week and thought storing them for a few months but I guess I got itchy. I wasn’t planning to start yet but hell, let’s do it!

It’s my second restoration but my first full cabinet inside out strip which I’m going to paint with Pinball Pimp Jeff’s stencils.

My playfield is very good with factory mylar. I’ll meditate if I take it off or just polish it as is.

I got a new set of plastics and a new vortex ramp. The game was already LED throughout. Overall, the top side was already pretty neat. I’m going to strip it down and clean through fully and replace a few components like rubbers, lane guides, polish ramp flaps, new fasteners, etc.

The bottom side will get deep cleaning, I’ll redo flippers and drop down target assembly. My visor targets were re-done right after I just bought it. I’ll shotgun replace coil sleeves, coil wrappers, etc.

He’s the first few pictures, from this week-end. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to work but I’ll try to post progress pictures and comment as I go.

Please give your tips and trick. I'm a beginner!

I got about 5 hours in so far. I un-did everything without power tool and took enough picture I hope. I was thinking about re-using the ground braid but I might very well replace it.

Next step, sanding!

Started pulling some connectors out
Started pulling some connectors out

Playfield's out!
Playfield's out!

Here it is!
Here it is!

Getting emptier, see I keep the braid until the end
Getting emptier, see I keep the braid until the end

That is pretty much empty, minus the braid
That is pretty much empty, minus the braid :)

Topper off! Dirt on original paint!
Topper off! Dirt on original paint!

That's an ugly cabinet!
That's an ugly cabinet!

Ok, braid off. Goes kinda here.

I think a bear played this game before, look at the claw marks
I think a bear played this game before, look at the claw marks

Undressing done! Ready to sand. So long Pinbot, I'm gonna miss playing you for a while.
Undressing done! Ready to sand. So long Pinbot, I'm gonna miss playing you for a while.

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#2 11 months ago

Nice original playfield! Good luck sir, following.

#3 11 months ago

Great start. I hope to be doing a playfield swap on mine, sometime soon.

You should relocate those batteries off of your CPU board before you have an acid problem. You may also want to fuse the two bridges in the back box.

Good luck.

#4 11 months ago
Quoted from highspeed:

Great start. I hope to be doing a playfield swap on mine, sometime soon.
Good luck.

Hehe thanks!

I'm done stripping and sanding to wood and halfway done with bondo the corner fixes. I was out this week-end but will post pictures as soon as possible. Got a few findings to report back!

#5 11 months ago

I took a day off from work last week to put in about 8-9 hours into the cabinet and head. Here is the progress:

A few shots from the "before"
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Started with the back side, using the orbital sander and 60 grit paper. It did well but took a lot of time I felt. So I decided to try paint stipper. It worked very well to get rid of the paint to the primer (blue). I put a very light coat and avoided going to close to the edges. Took quite some time as well but it was way easier overall. You can see the difference between only with stripper and after some sanding.
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After some more sanding, I was happy with the result. Still some primer in wood grain which I will probably smooth again to finish the surface. I did not go crazy on sanding where the head attach and the interior. Just rough the surface, make it smooth and give the primer some grip.

BTW, I don't know how you guys get to have the interior floor to wood in every corner. It's impossible to sand those tight spots. I first wanted to have my interior floor on wood and cleared but hell I'm painting it. I'll find a nice color to contrast the black and may be add some personal touches to give it a "Pinbot" feel. I'm pretty "artsy" and rather spend my time doing that than sanding this guy to death.

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The very bottom edge was in very bad shape at a few places, one piece of plywood was completely missing and the wood was chipping. So I cut a piece of masonite to fit under the old plywood and the notch in the corner and glued to very solid. It came up very strong and I think this will hold very well from now on. I spend a lot of time actually going around the bottom and glued/clamped the whole thing as it was cracking and chipping. Now the bottom edges are very solid. I'll later sand and paint now the glue has completely dried.

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Then I moved to the bondo and started to patch the corners with the game still upside down. Tip to myself, don't do a lot of bondo at the time, this thing dries in minutes. I'm not expert in wood working or patch work as this is my first true restoration but I like where it's going so far! I guess I have half the cabinet done and half the backbox as well. The worst is done though. A few corner beauty shots included, all done with orbital sander. (hell, those corners are going to be hidden behind legs anyway...)

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#6 11 months ago

Very nice work.

Yves

#7 11 months ago

This is going to look great when your done. Thanks for documenting...

#8 11 months ago

I also hate the corner sanding but for me it's mandatory. I think the really clean floor looks great. I use a block of wood with very square corners as a sanding block and a dewalt multitool/oscillating sander. Makes fairly easy work of things.

#9 11 months ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

I think the really clean floor looks great.

OK, I'll give it another shot. I guess I did not expect it to be so difficult. I also read Bryan Kelly hates painted floor so I must be doing something wrong

#10 11 months ago

Looks great. Which type of Bondo are you using? Getting ready to do a Funhouse, and i had no idea there were like 4 different kinds.

#11 11 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

OK, I'll give it another shot. I guess I did not expect it to be so difficult. I also read Bryan Kelly hates painted floor so I must be doing something wrong

I also hate painted floors. Looks bad imo.

#12 11 months ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Looks great. Which type of Bondo are you using? Getting ready to do a Funhouse, and i had no idea there were like 4 different kinds.

It's this one from CanadianTire here in Canada. The body filler step 3.

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#13 11 months ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

I also hate painted floors. Looks bad imo.

Well, to me it does not look bad, it looks different. Definitly not original but it looks clean though. Cleaner than a dirty floor if you are not going to sand it throughout.

I'm sure a nice soft but contrasting color could look good. Still I'm going to give it another shot.

#14 11 months ago

I was able to work 3 hours last Saturday and all day today ( took another day off, way more fun). That's 11 more hours put into it.

I'm done with bondo and sanding and started priming today. I did not have enough space to do both head and cab so I only did the cabinet.

A few findings:
It's a lot of work... Gosh. Don't get you hopes too high if it's your first time. It's a craftsman game. It's fine if there a few things I could have done better. Pros make it look easy but it's not.

I used a wet rag to remove the dust. Apparently wood does not like water and it raises the wood grain. I had to sand again to get the baby's butt finish.

I decided to paint the floor, sorry but I'm not going through this. I also decided to get the transfo floor natural wood and paint the bottom a contrasting colour, at least not black. We'll see how it turns out.
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Painting is suppose to be the fun part but it's not as easy as it sounds using spray can for this kind of work, priming at least.

The primer split and raised the veneer at two places, not sure how to fix it.
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Also applying the primer let defects show up as I though everything was perfect, no big deal...

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I used TremClad oil based primer, that is what we find here in Canada.
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Oh yeah, in he meantime I got myself a small tumbler. It cleans but does not polish as much as I thought it would.
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#15 11 months ago

Question, looks like I got a bunch of tiny wood particles hanging from the primer,on the inside. I can remove by hand almost. Is it ok for me to lightly sand and give a final coat of primer?

Actually, should I lightly sand between dry coats of primer?

1 week later
#16 10 months ago

I spent 2 more days on the restoration. I'm done priming after some problem and applied my first coats of black today. I'll post picture when it's done. I'm suing Black Krylon Colormaster Satin finish. It's hard to get an even finish but did not want to go crazy thick on my first coats.

The places where the wood split is because there was nothing underneath the thin layer of veneer. Either a empty knot or like I saw on other Pinbot restoration a full lenght from top to bottom with nothing underneath the veneer, about 3/4 of a inch wide.

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I bit the bullet and took out the bondo again. Sanded, prime and then what, another split with another hole. Damn cheap wood!

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I also spent some time cleaning some hardware. I bought a little tumbler and it worked well. I did took a photo of what screw goes where before throwing in the tumbler. All clean. I hand polish every metal part I can with Autosol.

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#17 10 months ago

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#18 10 months ago

Great progress. As you pointed out those hollow areas behind the first layer of veneer look just like the issue I had. I wonder how many games have those voids.

#19 10 months ago

With the tumbler, if you are not, you should add some Flitz to the media, makes a big difference. Yes, you can sand between primer coats, that is partially why you do it. Also get some Tack cloths to wipe the dust.

#20 10 months ago
Quoted from Insane:

With the tumbler, if you are not, you should add some Flitz to the media, makes a big difference. Yes, you can sand between primer coats, that is partially why you do it. Also get some Tack cloths to wipe the dust.

Hey,

I added, BRASSO Metal Polish to the media tumbler. I guess it helped but did not see a huge difference to my first batch dry. I infact sanded between primer coats it helps a lot making the surface smooth again. I'll probably give a light sanding again between my second and third/final coat of black to get the same result.

I'm using a clean microfiber rag and mineral spirit to get the dust off. Did not seem to raise the wood grain or affect the paint and got the dust off real good. Only it's smell terrible.

I'm really looking forward to finish the base coat and move to stencil!

#21 10 months ago

I'M reading everywhere that cabinet ground braid should be 1/4" wide but mine was 3/16". I bought 1/4" but wondering if I'll change for 3/16" like the original. It's like $7 difference for a 50' roll.

Also, I do not feel like buying a long nose stapler for this. I'm tempted to do it with a regular heavy duty hand stapler.

#22 10 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I'M reading everywhere that cabinet ground braid should be 1/4" wide but mine was 3/16". I bought 1/4" but wondering if I'll change for 3/16" like the original. It's like $7 difference for a 50' roll.
Also, I do not feel like buying a long nose stapler for this. I'm tempted to do it with a regular heavy duty hand stapler.

I tried doing it with a manual stapler and it didnt work...had to borrow an upholstry stapler, you dont need the long nose model for cabinet braid. You only need the long nose one for under playfield ground...

#23 10 months ago

Why did it not work?

#24 10 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Why did it not work?

I could not get the staples anywhere near flush with a hand stapler. Perhaps there is a stronger hand stapler than the one I attempted to use.

#25 10 months ago

I'll give it a shot and see where it leads me. I got 2 settings on mine. For sure you need to hold firm onto the surface though...

#26 10 months ago

Did the manual stapler work? I saw a guy using one today on some boat vinyl and it looked like it was sinking it flush into the marine plywood.

#27 10 months ago

Haven't try the manual stapler but I think I'll just bite the bullet and buy a 22 gauge air stapler from Amazon.

#28 10 months ago

I finished painting last week end. I'm pretty happy with the result. I put the cabinet upward so it's easier to do short pass left to right with the spray can. Only thing I would do different is try to find a way to mask the sides when spraying so the over-spray does not go stick on the finished sides and make them rough.
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Today I finally did my first stencil color on the head. I had the stencils lay flat for a week now and they are just great quality (Pinball Pimp Stencils). They were very easy to apply.
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I masked the head so I can do the first color, and then the second and keep the masking all around the other parts.
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I used Krylon Banner red and it came out not enough orange to my taste. It does look good but not close enough from the original to my taste. Oh well... First coat:
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I did 4 coats. After talking with Jeff at PP, I put on too much paint and did don't let dry long enough before peeling. Actually, I waited about 10-12 minutes as Jeff from PP recommended 10-15 minutes. I should have apply 4 coats with 1 minutes in between and remove the stencils right away. At the end, the edge started to stick to the stencil and spread a little at a few places.
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Light sanding the edges when it's cured should clean this up hopefully.

Now I know I'll definitely want to clearcoat the cabinet. Otherwise it will be too fragile I think.

#29 10 months ago

Hey Cosmokramer, I was reviewing your thread, you mention it's because you did not let dry long enough that the paint started to stretch between the cab and the stencil?

I thought it was the inverse.

#30 10 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Hey Cosmokramer, I was reviewing your thread, you mention it's because you did not let dry long enough that the paint started to stretch between the cab and the stencil?
I thought it was the inverse.

After looking at your photos I think the mistake we both made was spraying the coats too thick...from what I understand if you remove the stencils too early the paint will stretch and have strings of paint fly around (our issue) and if it stays on too long it tears the paint upon removal...overall you did a nice job and I have found from doing mine that the imperfections that look so noticeable now will be all but invisible when the project is complete.

#31 10 months ago

Yeah but like you said, the red seemed to cover the base coat black not as good than the white of the stencils. I think I'll do a test on a scrap piece of stencil.

#32 10 months ago

yes... red paint was sprayed on too thick. A bunch of quick, light, sweeping passes is best. Also, might have been peeled a little too early since paint looks thick and was not set up enough yet, thus getting stringies!

Colors are tough when painting on black cabs since you have to cover Black!

#33 10 months ago

Next time I am going to flash a bit of light colored primer just before spraying stencil color, should get better color without having to spray it so thick.

-1
#34 10 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Next time I am going to flash a bit of light colored primer just before spraying stencil color, should get better color without having to spray it so thick.

Very true. I might do that on the cabinet body. A light coat of gray primer.

#35 10 months ago

Some more progress made last week. I did the yellow second stencil on the head following instruction from Cosmokramer and Jeff from Pinball Pimp.

Actually, I see Jeff did not recommend applying even a very light coat of primer as a base before doing stencil colors. He was right. The edges came out great this time but the paint did not adhere perfectly on the edge and separated from the primer. See pictures. I'm going to touch up with a brush no worries. The clear should protect everything nicely.

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Otherwise, it's looking freaking sweet.

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I'm also spending some time painting and hand polishing a bunch of other parts.

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#36 10 months ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Some more progress made last week. I did the yellow second stencil on the head following instruction from Cosmokramer and Jeff from Pinball Pimp.
Actually, I see Jeff did not recommend applying even a very light coat of primer as a base before doing stencil colors. He was right. The edges came out great this time but the paint did not adhere perfectly on the edge and separated from the primer. See pictures. I'm going to touch up with a brush no worries. The clear should protect everything nicely.

Otherwise, it's looking freaking sweet.

I'm also spending some time painting and hand polishing a bunch of other parts.

Spraying a bit of primer first was recommended to me in my thread by other pinsiders, I am surprised the paint peeled from the primer. A bit of touch up and some clear for protection and it will look great. Nice job on the parts cleaning as well, looking forward to seeing the completed machine?

2 weeks later
#37 9 months ago

Time to give an update!

The good: I'm done with stencils on the head and 2 of the 3 side of the cab! The bad: the third side, the first stencil color did not adhere properly. I had to sand back and re-base coat with black. A new stencil is on the way and with the few mistakes I made so far, I can say I think I now got the hang of it in terms of amount of paint and amount of time to let dry before peeling. Practice makes perfect.

I spent some time on the coin door and I'm doing some test on how I'll clear the cab. I now know I want low gloss/satin like finish and foam brushing does not give good enough result to my taste. I'm going to "bite the wallet" and spray can to clear.

Here are a few updated pictures:

Nice graphics, sharp line. We can see the gloss difference where I sanded to knock the edges and prepare the surface for stencil colors. Clear will take care of it.

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Taking apart, cleaning, tumbling, polising, re-decal and painting coin door. Using the "splatter" technique, can't remember the name

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Got a new woofer, hopefully it makes a difference in Pinbot. I tried it (hardwired) in my Diner and it sounded worst, too much range and not enough lows.

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Looking forward to finish this god damn cabinet and move on...

#38 9 months ago

That door turned out really nice!

#39 9 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

That door turned out really nice!

Thanks Bryan! Not perfect but way better than it was.

#40 9 months ago

Got my replacement stencil yesterday. I should finish painting this week-end (finger crossed)

3 weeks later
#41 8 months ago

Time to give an update. I re-did the side of the cabinet I messed up. Sanded, re-painted black and re-did stencils. The yellow still did not come out the way I would have liked as the red is flawless. Go figure. Some touch up and I will clear the side as soon as time and weather allows.

The Head is DONE. I only cleared both sides as the back is very nice as it and it's more to protect the art. I'm painting the bolts head to match the art on the outside. I'm done with ground and started re-installed the hardware, the backbox panel fits great and I'm very happy. I also printed new decals

I'm still working the cabinet even if the clear is no done yet. I pretty much finished laying the ground and some other hardware. I'm figuring out my tilt board as ground goes. I'm soldering anchors to all ground end to it can be screwed to the cabinet, transfo, speaker, side rails neatly, I think it's worth the effort.

With some help from my wife, I did some custom art on the tilt panel to give the inside (where you never look at) a little extra. I like it very much.

Can wait to continue assembling the game. I got an order from Marco coming in soon and looking forward to install the playfield on the rotisserie.

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#42 8 months ago

Pas mal beau, looks like mine !!!

#43 8 months ago

Wow that really looks great. I wish I would have paid as much attention to detail as you have done.

#44 8 months ago

looking great!!!

#45 8 months ago

Great detail work, it'll be a beauty.

#46 8 months ago

Thanks guys, I'm pretty sure I'm spending way too much time on this build for what it's worth but I'm learning a ton.

2 weeks later
#47 8 months ago

Update time!

I have been quiet the last few weeks but been busy on my pinball, ask my wife... I can only work in short stretch so things are coming together slow but surely.

I'm waiting on my legs to put the cabinet up and attach the head. The cab is pretty much done. I received the first of a few orders of new parts. Bunch of stuff!

Painted the bottom side of the cab matte black and painted the metal protector at the front, really clean looking.

Door is back in, new cabinet switches, new buttons, new speaker, new hardware where needed and new glass. Painted and clear leg plates, lots of polished parts. I'm very happy with the result, the cab is looking real good.

One thing I realise is which order to put stuff back together, for example I was waiting for my leg plates to arrived so I installed other things but I would have been way easier to put them back first, I had to remove a few bolts, etc. It's all things I'm learning, next time I'll know what should go first to avoid doing things twice, 3 times, 4 times...

I'm about ready to put the playfield on the rotisserie, I removed a few needed parts and man there was some dust, apron was probably never removed at least not cleaned. Will remedy to that.

Next updates, cab should be complete and up on the rotisserie the playfield go.

Cheers!

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#48 8 months ago

Looking great!!

#49 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Looking great!!

Thanks mate, I hope so. Doing my best.

#50 8 months ago

Looking good! Cant wait till I get that far on my F-14. How did you get the ground braid connected to washer? Also what stapler did you use for ground braid?

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