(Topic ID: 227217)

Pinbot restoration

By Tomass

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 58 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Tomass
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Starting this along side my Cyclone and Comet. I will need to find a coin door, as this one did not have one when I got it. It came from Fairbanks AK and an operator sold it to the person I got it from without a door to prevent competition years ago. The board had been damaged from a leaky battery. The spiral ramp is also damaged, but that will be very hard to replace. The playfield is in very good shape and the cabinet is decent.

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#2 5 years ago

I am currently working on the board damage and waiting on a few components. I want to get it working before the teardown.

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#3 5 years ago

Sanding away the solder mask revealed mostly in-tact traces. Lost 1 that will need a jumper and repaired a couple, but not too bad. I resealed the traces with clear epoxy to prevent future issues.

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#4 5 years ago

I just got some transistors and resistor networks, so I will just be waiting on 2 ic's to test it. I am also not sure about a capacitor. It calls for a tantalum and I only have a ceramic one. Not sure if it will work.

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#6 5 years ago

Thanks. I will probably go the repair route at this point.

#7 5 years ago

Seems there was a mispick on my order of resistor netwoks. Was able to put the transistors in, but I am short a couple resistors still. The ic's are coming from China, so no hurry I guess.

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#8 5 years ago

Hoping this trace doesn't cause issues when I put the resistor in there. Tests good on the meter for now.

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#9 5 years ago

Well it may not be pretty but it all tests good on the meter. I use the lead from a diode to repair the trace. Once the epoxy hardens I will cut it off. Replaced the other src sub too. Will be just waiting now.

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#10 5 years ago

Well I wanted ti be careful with that trace underneath but when I cut the diode, the epoxy lifted. I will need to scrub that area carfully so I can cover and protect that trace.

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#11 5 years ago

Timer ic and a couple components came in today. Now just waiting on 1 ic and 1 resistor network to test this board out. Feels like it will take a small miracle for this thing to actually work, even though things seem to meter out.

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1 week later
#12 5 years ago

It has been 25 days since I ordered the ic that I am waiting on to move forward. Moved some machines around today and brought Pinbot inside. The playfield is in really good shape. Has a full mylar and plastics all look good and straight. Rubbers are dry rotted. I think I found a coin door that will need restored.

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#13 5 years ago

I've got this rats nest almost sorted out. I want to be able to test when I finally get my last piece.

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#15 5 years ago
Quoted from TheDrewster:

Wow, great work on that PCB. I would've just thrown in the towel and replaced it, but I am also lazy. Nice job!

Thank you, sir!

#16 5 years ago

I just hope it works! It's a mess after all that Alkaline.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Pbgixxer:

I have a good D-10877 display board . Tested with no hacks if your needing one .

I won't know until I get this last ic and actually get to test it. Been almost a month since ordering.

#19 5 years ago

Are these hard to find replacements for? Just wondering. Sometimes I will pick up extra boards if I find them cheap or if they are better than the boards I have.

#20 5 years ago

I may post a vid of the first boot of the mpu; good, bad or ugly. Always such a tense moment. My hands will be sweating when I flip that switch. If anyone is following along and wants to see that, drop a comment. I will, if any interest.

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

I do great work so far. I just finished shopping mine. What an awesome game

Ok, will do. As soon as I get that last ic. Was in Kent WA 3 days ago.

#23 5 years ago

Got a huge piece to my resto in the mail today! This thing is nice! Anyone on the fence about buying the repro, I will say it is very nice.

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#25 5 years ago

Whelp, as promised.

U38 is right in the line of damage. It looked fine, and I did not replace it. Hope that is all.

#26 5 years ago

At least I have this to be happy about.

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#28 5 years ago

It is giving u38 pia failure. I think this is good though, since it is right in the area bit was not replaced. Looked fine but must have an issue.

#31 5 years ago

I will be checking over the next couple days. Have a 4 day conference for work so who knows how long they will go each day.

#32 5 years ago

Replaced u38 but still had problems. Found broken trace and now it boots! I need to fix a locked on knocker and I also have no speech. Also my controlled lights are rapid pulsing when they light up.

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

The rapid plusing can you describe that a bit more? If you are in light test and you cycle through them does more than one come on at a time (I wonder if a row or column is shorted).

I will put it on a video if it shows up on camera. I have the board out right now. U19 and u20 seem to be shorted or something. Pins 1 and 2 are both solid high and pin 3 reads nothing with a logic probe. The other gates on these chips are reading similar. The trasistors seem to test good. Is swapping u19 and u20 out the best option?

#36 5 years ago

I swapped out u20 and it still reads the same.
Pin 1 H
Pin 2 H
Pin 3 nothing.
Other 3 gates give same reading.

#37 5 years ago

Also even single lamps in test mode will rapid pulse rather than steady on.

#39 5 years ago

I thought I made progress. I had it seemingly working without anything locking. Went into the other room to grab my mulitimeter and heard it reset. Then it reset a few times. Now it has pia failures and coils locking. Back to the drawing board!

2 weeks later
#43 5 years ago

It seems to be working. I swapped the PIAs out to see if I got a new defective one and it seems to work. I have been focussed on getting my Cyclone and Comet ready for clear coat.

#44 5 years ago

Not saying ot won't spread and come back, but lets hope it doesn't. I sanded the mask back past the corrosion, but who knows for sure.

#45 5 years ago

Arranged for a big piece of this project! A pinsider who is on a podcast answered my ad for a coin door. I have 2 sys 11 doors on the way. I will use the best parts to restore a nice door for this Pin Bot! This project is going to be moving along as soon my other 2 are just a little further. Also going to order some nvram chips. I noticed I get errors when I reset factory and switch off and on with battery.

3 weeks later
#46 5 years ago

Just got a big piece of this project in the mail today. I will make 1 from the best parts of the 2 and replace parts as needed.

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#48 5 years ago
Quoted from Houkaka:

Will you replicate the original look of the paint on the coin door?
Looks like the one on the right was spray painted with some mat black...
and it wasn't even disassembled when it was repainted things like that makes me sick.
I hope it won't be going on the pin like that!

It will be restored to the best of my ability and I will be replicating the splatter spray as close to the original as I can. The one has definitely been repainted and the splatter effect is gone.

2 months later
#51 5 years ago

Thanks. Honestly people have sucked the fun out of logging my work. It's not that have thin skin even, but I am doing the work for the peace of mind that it brings and for an escape from the daily bullshit and assholes. So I am continuing my projects and I may post up a final post when I finish. I guess I should post this on those threads for the record.

2 months later
#52 4 years ago

Just set this up now that I have room and the mpu seems to work without any issues. Hopefully I am ahead of the corrosion for good.

1 month later
#53 4 years ago

Ok, this is still a couple projects deep in the que, but I fused the rectifiers so I could test this some and noticed a locked on pop bumper. Hopefully this is just in that special solenoid area of the board. Also had a bunch of switches not registering and the visor kept running (prob a switch). I want to get this fully working before the teardown. I may do a full shop job tomorrow and adjust all the switches and go through everything. Then look at the board.

#54 4 years ago

Decided to shop this out since I plan on playing it until I finish up Cyclone and Comet. Might even finish my Silverball but it is not game I am dying to play. Anyway, I got the top torn down before the heat hit today. Playfield was really dirty but cleaned up nice.

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1 month later
#56 4 years ago

Got this thing playing 100%. First night my wife and I played for about an hour with some minor issues. Next day I turn it on to a slew of switch issues. Turned out to be wires meeting the IDC connector. Fixed that and this is my new favorite game to play. Just love it. Need to get a new plunger, this one is slighly bent and the skill shot is not consistent. Will need to replace a pop bumper body that is cracked as well.

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from SilverWings:

The ball shooter (plunger) for PB is a common problem. PB needs quite a bit of thrust on the ball to shoot the vortex ramp well and to give the player a decent chance to be consistent with the shot. I found many examples of machines where the solution was to install the stronger spring to get the ball speed needed. That does work, but it also takes away from having a fine feel on the shot.
I found the shooter rod on ours also was too short: when at rest, the rubber tip was about 3/8" behind the metal bracket the ball rests against. Thus, when the shot is made, the shooter rod is actually decelerating - it will be compressing the barrel spring between the shooter housing and plunger knob - as it strikes the ball. What was needed was a longer shooter rod and keep using the standard spring.
So, our PB now has a longer rod installed and its perfect. The shooter rod tip should be just in contact with the ball as its at rest before pulling the knob back. That way, maximum energy will be imparted to the ball, making the vortex ramp shot much more consistent and giving the player better feel on the shot. Marco has longer ball shooter rods - if you need just order one that's too long and cut it down to exactly what you need.
Cheers... and enjoy the game. Its GREAT!!

Thanks! Mine is bent so it ded needs replaced. Sometimes it works great but if it turns and doesn't line up with ball, it flubs on the posts before the ramp and doesn't even make the first hole. If you line it up prior to shooting, it makes the full ramp but very frustrating trying to line it up. The top pop bumper often catches the ball in a perpetual back and forth and is about the only place on the pf with damage. When I restore the pf I wilk be touching up and clear coating.

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