How about a bigger pic of the relay so I can see the wires.

I am not aware of Pinbot using snubber relays on coils like HS and F-14. I also don't see this marked in the manual, but that doesn't mean anything. I may look at my own game tomorrow to compare with your pic of yours.

This is a A/C relay. So this relay switches power from the flashers to the coil. The ramp up is solenoid 5a which has power turned on and off by this relay. If your switch for the ramp is not working correctly the ramp will try to fire each time the A/C relay switches.

What are the markings for the cap you installed?

That relay will work fine. I wanted to look at my relays in my Pinbot just to be sure, and none of them have the capacitor installed on the board. I would assume you may have gotten a bad capacitor as it looks to be installed correctly. There shouldn't be more than 32 volts on it and it is rated for 100 volts so that shouldn't be a problem. I would just remove it.

When Williams used this relay board as a snubber relay this ( GND ) spot is actually connected to ground. But in reality this is the Common terminal of the relay connections. When Williams used the same board for the AC relay they solder splashed the +28 volt terminal to the GRD terminal and connected orange wires ( c side power) to the coil terminal. This is labeled coil because as a snubber relay it connects to the coil but in reality it is the NO terminal. The NC terminal is one of the few that is labeled correctly. The brown wire is the a side power wire. The DRV terminal is for activating the relay and is connected to the CPU board. To test the relay you can ground this terminal and the relay should activate if it good. So long story short this is wired correctly.

No my machine has the version with no cap and no resistor. Ignore my earlier post my head was up my ass.

Could these caps be from the same manufacture batch and had the shrink sleeve installed wrong causing you to install them incorrectly? This can be avoided by using axial caps on this board.

Yes with a Oscope. You may also be able to check resistance from the metal top to one of leads. The metal case should be negative.

All 3 on my Pinbot are just like this.

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Nice catch wayout440 they are reversed for the snubber board labeling. As an A/C relay everything is ass backward. Also as a A/C relay none of this needed anyway.

This was a problem but this is not the answer to your ramp issue. I think you need to adjust the ramp release and possibly adjust the down switch.

Since both switches are on green/blue wire and both switches have 2 wires for green and white it cant be a broken wire or something else wouldn't work. So whats left, bad diode, dirty switch, out of adjustment or a poor solder connection at the switch.

It only takes a few minutes, I would replace both diodes and adjust both switches.

Well then take a pic of it.

They are all on the same switch column, so this is very possible.

In first pic the green/blue should be solder together.

In the second pic you need to have the clear tubing over the diode leads for insulation.

In your last pic you need to remove the top green/blue wire and put it with the bottom green/blue wire and slide the clear tubing down over the diode.

This should clear your problems.

Playball!!