Quakertown, PA
Very good stuff! Love following your progress!
Chris
(Topic ID: 58688)
Linked Games
Pinbot
Williams, 1986
Topic Gallery
keep up the good work.
This is a hard cabinet to get right, stencil wise. All those straight lines to line up, etc. Looks really nice though. Let me know when you want to come over and work on mine!
Quoted from Richthofen:This is a hard cabinet to get right, stencil wise. All those straight lines to line up, etc. Looks really nice though. Let me know when you want to come over and work on mine!
This one was one heck of a job! You can see my wife elected to cut the stencils into smaller chunks to get them lined up as best as possible. It's not 100% perfect, but it's pretty close. It's a 5 footer. I'm sure once everything gets reinstalled it will look awesome!
Well I hope so.
Quoted from NJGecko:And started on the under-playfield GI wiring. It's going really really well with the new pneumatic toy, but it's still harder than I guessed to get everything lined up. Took a quick break from it. It's taken me around an hour so far.
Nice progress NJGecko!
What are you using for the GI wiring? Looks like grounding wire? Were you able to buy it at the hardware store or did you buy from one of the Pinball parts places?
Longueuil, QC
Pinrestore.com for ground braid.
Your a long ways away from the pinhead I met less than a year ago Greg
-Jim
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Pinrestore.com for ground braid.
Your a long ways away from the pinhead I met less than a year ago Greg
-Jim
Yep, that's where it came from. Pinrestore the braid. pinballresource for the sockets.
Yea Jim, I know. Not sure if that's good or bad
Are you using the grounding braid or the bare 18 guage twisted copper rope wire they sell on pinrestore? Kind of hard to tell from the photos, I would think the bare wire would be a better choice because it is pre-tinned for solder.
Any reason you decided not to use the existing sockets?
Thanks for the help - tell the kitty she has 2 cold ones coming to her now.
Quoted from alb0711:Are you using the grounding braid or the bare 18 guage twisted copper rope wire they sell on pinrestore? Kind of hard to tell from the photos, I would think the bare wire would be a better choice because it is pre-tinned for solder.
Any reason you decided not to use the existing sockets?
Thanks for the help - tell the kitty she has 2 cold ones coming to her now.
I'm using their bare wire by the foot. The pre-tinned stuff.
As far as sockets...I'm reusing the rest of the ones in the harness, but the ones stapled to the playfield I wanted to replace. I didn't want to go through removing them (who knows what shape they would be after desoldering and prying them up) and they are 30 year old sockets. Pinball Resource has them for $.46 each, so for under $10 I get brand new sockets. Seemed like a silly thing to NOT do.
Quoted from NJGecko:I'm using their bare wire by the foot. The pre-tinned stuff.
As far as sockets...I'm reusing the rest of the ones in the harness, but the ones stapled to the playfield I wanted to replace. I didn't want to go through removing them (who knows what shape they would be after desoldering and prying them up) and they are 30 year old sockets. Pinball Resource has them for $.46 each, so for under $10 I get brand new sockets. Seemed like a silly thing to NOT do.
Make sense, the springs in my really old machines do wear out over time causing dim or non-functioning lights. Replacement will add 25 years or more to Pinbot. Sounds like you needed about 20 of them?
Will you will also be laying new grounding braid to keep the ac hum away from the sound system? I haven't looked under my playfield yet, but am guessing there is grounding brade down there somewhere.
I'm enjoying this thread. Thanks for posting it. I'll be swapping out my Taxi playfield soon and seeing this step by step is helping me get into the right frame of mind. Seeing those stencils in use really makes me appreciate the fact that the condition of my cab and head are excellent. Super glad I don't have to go through all that. I kinda feel like I'd have to employ the services of my wife for mine too if needed. She's the more artistic one and has much more patience with paint than I do. Thanks again for step by step.
Quoted from alb0711:Make sense, the springs in my really old machines do wear out over time causing dim or non-functioning lights. Replacement will add 25 years or more to Pinbot. Sounds like you needed about 20 of them?
Will you will also be laying new grounding braid to keep the ac hum away from the sound system? I haven't looked under my playfield yet, but am guessing there is grounding brade down there somewhere.
Not planning to replace the existing braid. It still seems fine.
Tonight's fun continued. Unfortunately it was pretty limited, I was at the hospital for a few hours trying to some headache stuff sorted out, so working with air tools indoors with a headache = not fun.
But enough of that..onto tonight!
Pulled the old pops off. Needed the springs from them.
Normally everything else is a throw-away for me, and I usually either tumble the springs or mean green them or deal with them as is, but figured I'd give the new ultrasonic a whirl.
You can see how they turned out...I'm actually going to save the wafers for another game since they were perfect.
And the fun of breaking out baggies of new parts!
2013-09-04_18.46.54.jpg 2013-09-04_19.05.00.jpg 2013-09-04_19.07.00.jpg
My biggese nemesis...pop bumper light sockets. These are the WORST thing, and one of the few things I used to literally dread doing.
This is a job for the new unicatch pneumatic!
Out with the old tubing as well. Amazing how nasty this stuff gets.
All I can say is WOW. This tool is just fantastic. No more fiddling and cursing. Five minutes and done!
And just for anyone wondering, I know I still need to solder everything. I just wanted to get the stapling done so I can tuck the compressor away.
2013-09-04_19.17.33.jpg 2013-09-04_18.51.56.jpg 2013-09-04_19.29.29.jpg
Topside picture of the pops. Lighting stinks, but you can see shiny playfield and new pops!
Also swapped the new sticker in the base of the head since it's stapled in.
All done with the stapler now so tomorrow hopefully going to solder and, with luck, get the cabinet cleared and go from there!
NJGecko:
nice job on the ground braid
looking at the photo where you completed securing the light sockets, were the holes on the repro playfield that far off for all 3 of the pop bumpers?
it looks like you had to move them about 1/8" from their original positions to make it work 
Quoted from j_m_:NJGecko:
nice job on the ground braid
looking at the photo where you completed securing the light sockets, were the holes on the repro playfield that far off for all 3 of the pop bumpers?
it looks like you had to move them about 1/8" from their original positions to make it work
Actually the holes in the repro board were spot on for them. Everything from the pops lined up.
Taking a quick break to catch up on work (and pinside).
Got all of the GI wiring on the bottom of the playfield done and new stickers on. I was actually able to reuse the jumpers from the old playfield on some of the sockets. It's longer than I would personally cut them, but figured they are 100% original and uncut
And the mailman brought me some goodies...
The CPR blowout from last week had the gecko getting some brand-spanking new plastics! It's not a full set, but I didn't need a full set. Kinda cool that I got some keychain plastics.
And the cat was just waiting to help!
Quoted from NJGecko:The CPR blowout from last week had the gecko getting some brand-spanking new plastics!
I put in what I thought was a good offer, but it wasn't even close!
Let me know if you have a decent 'face' plastic you want to sell. Mine has both screw areas broken off..
Quoted from Deaconblooze:Let me know if you have a decent 'face' plastic you want to sell. Mine has both screw areas broken off..
Mine too. You beat me to it
Quoted from NJGecko:Still surprised that people pay any attention to me
Restoration porn + Cat = WIN.
-mof
One comment I will make is that I am disappointed with the dimpling on the CPR playfield.
When I did the swap in AFM with a Mirco one, it was almost plug and play. On the CPR PinBot one, I'm finding probably 60% of the dimples there. Probably 40% aren't there at all, not even an indentation. If I had caught this beforehand, I would have made a tracing of the old playfield, but I'm left with just doing a side by side and going from there.
Making the work take a lot longer, and makes me a little nervous if things are missing from the top side.
Quoted from NJGecko:One comment I will make is that I am disappointed with the dimpling on the CPR playfield.
When I did the swap in AFM with a Mirco one, it was almost plug and play. On the CPR PinBot one, I'm finding probably 60% of the dimples there. Probably 40% aren't there at all, not even an indentation. If I had caught this beforehand, I would have made a tracing of the old playfield, but I'm left with just doing a side by side and going from there.
Making the work take a lot longer, and makes me a little nervous if things are missing from the top side.
What do you mean by "dimpling"? Newbee wants to understand! ;->
Quoted from alb0711:What do you mean by "dimpling"? Newbee wants to understand! ;->
So dimpling is the process of pre-drilling the holes on the playfield for the fasteners. Basically anywhere a screw goes should be a dimple.
So some more updates...
Just to follow up, here's one example of lack of dimpling being a real challenge.
See the holes for the saucer inserts? Without dimpling, no way to know which way to clock them without the original playfield. I only ran two screws in until I get everything else installed in case I need to adjust them.
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