(Topic ID: 197284)

Pinbot left pop bumper stops working?

By Its_me_aj

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Its_me_aj
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#1 6 years ago

Hello everyone! I have strange issue with my pinbot that is driving me crazy! When I power the game on everything will play great. After a while the left pop bumper will just stop working. I can go into diagnostics and it won't read the spoon switch but it will read the scoring switch if I manually trip it. I've checked everything related to the spoon switch as good as I can to my knowledge and it all seems to be ok. I've check the readings on q72 and q73 and they test ok. Continuity through every wire that has to do with the left pop tests ok. If I turn the game off for a couple. minutes and turn it back on, everything will work fine for a few games and eventually he left pop will stop working again. I've tried reflow ing solder on the board connectors and nothing seems to help.

I'm really stumped with the whole thing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

#2 6 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I can go into diagnostics and it won't read the spoon switch

The skirt switch does not go to the switch matrix so it will never show on the display.
I would clip a test lead to the cathode of ZR-3 and play a game until the pop quits, then check the voltage on ZR-3. There should be 5 volts until you hit the skirt switch then it drops to zero.
You can also check pin 3 of U-45, during a game it should be a low (.8 volts or lower). When the pop quits this should still be a low signal.
Check this and let us know what you find.

#3 6 years ago

Zr3 tested good. I went to test U45 pin 3 and it was reading about 1.7. I pushed on it (socketed?) and touched the skirt and it worked. I think I have a bad u45 chip.

Thank you for your help!!! Hopefully a replacement chip will fix it

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I think I have a bad u45 chip.

More likely a bad socket.

#6 6 years ago

If a new chip does not help, then bend the pins of the chip outward a bit and reinsert. Always try the easy road first.

1 month later
#7 6 years ago

Had a chance to finally replace the chip. That did not help. Going to try to replace the socket

1 month later
#8 6 years ago

Alright. I finally got around to replacing the socket. It didn’t not help. But messing around with it for a bit, I noticed that if I flexed the board around the yellow relay, the pop bumper came back to life. I checked everything in that area for cold solder joints and everything seemed to be ok. No clue where to go from here.

#9 6 years ago

When the pop stops working, what is the voltage on pin 1 of U-45 with a game started and holding down the skirt switch? R106, and R107 can cause this also. Check to see if they are cracked or have cold solder joints.

#11 6 years ago

r106 and 107 seemed to look ok. didn't have a extra pair hands around to help me check voltages with the skirt down. but I did do a little test thing. Iusually before if I were to leave the game on, at first everything would work fine. after a little time, the pop bumper would go out. after I found out about "flexing" the board and having it work, I took ad wedged something in-between the board and the back box and left the game on for a few hours. I came home, gave it a play and everything was still working just fine. Now I guess just need to find where the broken connection is.

#12 6 years ago

Cracked header pins on j18 and j19.

#13 6 years ago

I reflows the solder earlier on them but I’ll try replacing them as well

#14 6 years ago

Replaced header pins and connectors and still the same thing. If I pull out on the board it works fine.

#15 6 years ago

Maybe R106 or R107 is cracked that you can't see.

2 months later
#16 6 years ago

Did you ever find the problem?

1 week later
#17 6 years ago

Nope. Still never figured it out. It’s frustrating

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