Quoted from hayrebear:Thanks again for the invaluable starting point, chaskett!
Thanks, man! I appreciate your help in trouble shooting the docs too! Hoping to acquire a Black Knight in the coming weeks and do another set of diagrams for it.
Quoted from hayrebear:Thanks again for the invaluable starting point, chaskett!
Thanks, man! I appreciate your help in trouble shooting the docs too! Hoping to acquire a Black Knight in the coming weeks and do another set of diagrams for it.
Hi Chris @chaskett,
Thanks for the head start on LEDs for my PinBot. You put a lot of work into the basics! One question regarding the red towers under the vortex ramp: admittedly I haven’t torn mine down yet to look, but all the diagrams I’ve looked at don’t show lamps under the vortex to start with. Did you drill holes and add sockets, or just run wires from somewhere to add these? (Or are there already undocumented holes there?)
Thanks.
P.S. your “Adv. X” decal is great!
Quoted from Larrymc:Hi Chris chaskett,
Thanks for the head start on LEDs for my PinBot. You put a lot of work into the basics! One question regarding the red towers under the vortex ramp: admittedly I haven’t torn mine down yet to look, but all the diagrams I’ve looked at don’t show lamps under the vortex to start with. Did you drill holes and add sockets, or just run wires from somewhere to add these? (Or are there already undocumented holes there?)
Thanks.
P.S. your “Adv. X” decal is great!
Thanks Larrymc ! There are 2 sockets under the vortex from the factory. I drew the diagram based on the factory sockets on my machine. I would not be surprised if there are some errors. hayrebear points out several updates.
Quoted from hayrebear:-2 x 8 SMD #89 warm white flashers for left back-box fingers (vs incandescent)
-2 x 8 SMD #89 natural white flashers for right-back-box fingers (vs incandescent)
-4 x 8 SMD #89 red flashers for energy value insert (vs incandescent)
-4 x 8 SMD #89 orange/amber flashers for sun insert (vs incandescent) --- intention was to use warm white, but a stock issue forced my hand
-6 x 5 SMD #89 warm white flashers for orange domes (vs incandescent)
For the #89 LED flashers, I opted to removed the 330 ohm resistors. Info here, if anyone is looking and hasn't seen it already:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/issue-with-pinbot-flasher-circuit-when-using-led-replacement.
Thanks again for the invaluable starting point, chaskett!
hayrebear did you use comet 89s or cointaker 89s? Cointaker has direct replacement 1251 LEDs that are plug and play and look great... wondering if their 89s are the same or if the resistor mod is still needed.
chaskett
I appreciate everyone's research into this great game. I'm about to order LED's for mine and will follow the guide of those before me.
I see listed 1 SMD 5050 frosted. When I look at Comet's site I don't see a 1smd, just retro, and 2smd. Is the 1 smd the retro bulb on their site? What is 5050?
Thanks in advance!
Retro is supposed to be the same brightness as a filament lamp.
5050 is an LED module of 5.0 x 5.0 mm. It's generally brighter than a regular lamp.
Quoted from chaskett:hayrebear did you use comet 89s or cointaker 89s? Cointaker has direct replacement 1251 LEDs that are plug and play and look great... wondering if their 89s are the same or if the resistor mod is still needed.
I would like to personally thank you Chaskett! Followed the advice you posted, lamp scheme etc. Started switching our Pinbot over to led this evening and we started with the back box. We have the glass translight and I can tell you it's night and day better!
20201208_175943 (resized).jpgDear PinBot (or any similar sys) owners,
if I want to change the GI bulbs to proper (blue side to blue, red side to red) LEDs, is there any necessary "technical" modification (I mean the electric circuits) or it is enough only to replace the bulbs with 6.3V ba9s leds? (just because a leds amperage is much smaller than a simple bulb)
Quoted from denzo:Dear PinBot (or any similar sys) owners,
if I want to change the GI bulbs to proper (blue side to blue, red side to red) LEDs, is there any necessary "technical" modification (I mean the electric circuits) or it is enough only to replace the bulbs with 6.3V ba9s leds? (just because a leds amperage is much smaller than a simple bulb)
Just swapped them out.
I HATE the red/blue thing. White sunlights look best i think.
Quoted from denzo:...
if I want to change the GI bulbs to proper (blue side to blue, red side to red) LEDs...
That is not proper, it's horrible.
Quoted from denzo:(btw I meant the "proper" word to the bayonette type,
Ha! OK sorry I get it now
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