Pinbot LED Advice


By Mastersedator

3 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Insane
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

Hey guys, I could use some advice as I am new to this. I just bought a Really nice Pinbot and I'd like to convert it to LEDs. I've always bought the $200+ cointaker kits for my other pins and have been happy, but they seem awfully expensive. I'm thinking I could save some cash and try some from Comet this time around. I really like the blue on the left, reds on the right look. Anyone have a shopping list of what I should buy? I also would like to place them in the back glass , too. Thanks in advance!

3 years later
#2 10 days ago

I just got a Pinbot and am planning out how to LED the thing (my first 80's machine and first LED job). I want to make this economical and simple to start, but have a big wow factor. I'm planning to stick with incandescent 89 and 1251 for the flashers as I am not a fan of the bright, epileptic-seizure-inducing flashers of the modern games.

I totally hate the washed out red/blue jobs I have seen, but kinda like the idea of doing the red/blue theme more subtle with using cool and warm whites instead of colored above the playfield.

From what I am reading, I want to use Comet and put in an order. So far the plan is to use frosted SMDs in the back box and above playfield and maybe 2SMD clear color-matched under playfield inserts. I have read that others wished you did some reds under the vortex ramp. Any other special tricks to make the machine pop?

Would love to see some pictures and explanations from people's own LED conversions. If you have any advice or rules of thumb beyond match colors, use frosted bulbs, I'd love to hear them.

Attached are my working diagrams for colors minus above playfield (as I haven't torn the playfield down yet to confirm placement). In the backbox I have an alternate to go full color for the fingers instead of warms/cools and to do a plain bright white at the backbox pinball instead of the slasher (slow flasher). I developed the backbox based on freeze framing TNT episode #85 on youtube.

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#3 9 days ago

You did nice job putting this together. How do you know if they are wedge or bayonet base?

#4 9 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

You did nice job putting this together. How do you know if they are wedge or bayonet base?

Thanks! I am not done yet and noticed a couple corrections needed last night.

To answer your question, the manual's lamp matrix diagram shows a delta (keyed as #555) on all the lamps that are wedges.

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#5 9 days ago

This helps me because I’m not detailed enough to pull machine open and look at every bulb and write all down. I was leaning towards just ordering hundreds and hundred of bulbs in multiple types and colors and figuring out as I did the swap. Haha! Maybe using these tools from the manual will save me some money. I have 4 games to do....ugh. Pinbot is one

#6 9 days ago

Nice. I am going to document my process (first time doing an LED conversion) to help others.

#7 9 days ago

I saw my buddy’s whitewater with comet frosted natural white 2smd bulbs in the GI and the game POPPED! That’s what I’m getting for GI.

#8 9 days ago

Guys, no. Only use color in inserts. That color in the backbox or GI looks awful and ruins the art. If you want your game to look nice, choose whether you want warm or cool white, and then use that (frosted bulbs are best) for all your GI. Color match inserts to make the colors deep.

#9 9 days ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I saw my buddy’s whitewater with comet frosted natural white 2smd bulbs in the GI and the game POPPED! That’s what I’m getting for GI.

I like the Comet OPTIX for the GI. I has a nice light spread. I'd suggest mostly using warm white and cool white with color sprinkled in very lightly if you want. Color LEDs can really saturate a game and ruin the artwork.

Small LEDs work best for the inserts. Large or powerful LEDs will wash out the inserts and make the game look dark due to the contrast.

Add spotlights if necessary.

Here's my White Water using that strategy.

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#10 9 days ago
Quoted from jar155:

Guys, no. Only use color in inserts. That color in the backbox or GI looks awful and ruins the art. If you want your game to look nice, choose whether you want warm or cool white, and then use that (frosted bulbs are best) for all your GI. Color match inserts to make the colors deep.

Or just do whatever you want since it’s your machine

For what it’s worth I use frosted white in the GI and will add some color in the backbox behind letters or only in areas that are solid and won’t bleed but.... it’s your game do whatever you want lol

#11 9 days ago

Sunlight white is a great option if you don't want a yellow or blue tint.

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#12 9 days ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I like the Comet OPTIX for the GI. I has a nice light spread. I'd suggest mostly using warm white and cool white with color sprinkled in very lightly if you want. Color LEDs can really saturate a game and ruin the artwork.
Small LEDs work best for the inserts. Large or powerful LEDs will wash out the inserts and make the game look dark due to the contrast.
Add spotlights if necessary.
Here's my White Water using that strategy.

Perhaps you meant, Op-Max.....which is what I used too?!?!

#13 8 days ago

Before you do anything with your inserts us alcohol and Q tips and clean the underside of every insert till the swab comes off clean. On my Jack Bot I used Comet white clear dome 2 smd bulbs in every insert, they pop now like a new Stern insert. For my out lane guides I replace the metal screws with clear Phillips head bolts and used blue and red Comet single flex head bulbs pointed up into the zerk fitting under the pf the bolts screw into and now the heads light up. I used the Comet Matrix system to accomplish this. I also put 1 inch wide polished stainless steel strips against the pf black side walls under the plastics and the side drains. They help reflect all the light under the plastics outward to help light the plastics and by the drains they act as mini mirrors.

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#14 8 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

clear Phillips head bolts

NIFTY!

Did you by chance write up a separate thread on this so everyone can flatter your genius with imitation?

-mof

#15 8 days ago
Quoted from mof:

NIFTY!
Did you by chance write up a separate thread on this so everyone can flatter your genius with imitation?
-mof

No I didn't.

#16 7 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Before you do anything with your inserts us alcohol and Q tips and clean the underside of every insert till the swab comes off clean. On my Jack Bot I used Comet white clear dome 2 smd bulbs in every insert, they pop now like a new Stern insert. For my out lane guides I replace the metal screws with clear Phillips head bolts and used blue and red Comet single flex head bulbs pointed up into the zerk fitting under the pf the bolts screw into and now the heads light up. I used the Comet Matrix system to accomplish this. I also put 1 inch wide polished stainless steel strips against the pf black side walls under the plastics and the side drains. They help reflect all the light under the plastics outward to help light the plastics and by the drains they act as mini mirrors.

Very good advice. Where do you buy the clear bolts...they’re cool?!

#17 7 days ago
Quoted from Frogman:

Very good advice. Where do you buy the clear bolts...they’re cool?!

From me, I had to have them custom made, they are #8's, 1-1/2 inches long.

#18 6 days ago

I did one for my buddy, used Comet LEd's. Played with them until I found what worked best. I don't have very good pic's though. I did use I think orange in the yellow inserts, and white in the orange, or vice versa. It made the colors look the best. Here is the map I used as a starting point for the back box.

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#19 6 days ago

Only pic I have, the backbox shows up decently.

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#20 6 days ago

Thanks everyone for the advice! My neighbor lit his Space Shuttle will all 1 SMD Comet Bulbs and its the brightness I want. In his inserts he used clear domes which I'll probably use frosted to dial them down a touch.

@oldpinguy Do I need to get non-ghosting 1 SMD 5050 ($0.99) for this game anywhere or will the standard 1 SMD 5050 ($0.69) suffice? From what I can tell all the electronics are typical of the original install with no mods. Also going to keep the #89 and #1251 flashers as incandescent.

#21 6 days ago

Sorry, I don't know that answer...I haven't done that game.Anyone else?

#22 5 days ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Thanks everyone for the advice! My neighbor lit his Space Shuttle will all 1 SMD Comet Bulbs and its the brightness I want. In his inserts he used clear domes which I'll probably use frosted to dial them down a touch.
oldpinguy Do I need to get non-ghosting 1 SMD 5050 ($0.99) for this game anywhere or will the standard 1 SMD 5050 ($0.69) suffice? From what I can tell all the electronics are typical of the original install with no mods. Also going to keep the #89 and #1251 flashers as incandescent.

I just used standard bulbs. I didn't use non ghosting. I also changed all the 89's, and have also bought the bulbs to change the 1251's as soon as my buddy gets it set back up.

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