I'm pretty new to, but sounds to me you have a short in your bumpers somewhere. Could be shorting the flashers. I just got done rebuilding my pinbot and with how close the wires are around that area I could see how it could happen. For the visor, make sure brackets are not bent and maybe clean motor. I put a new motor in and now it runs like a champ! The switches may also need to be bent a little (the ones that detect open and close). Good luck!

Dead short on your pop bumper coil. Hopefully you have a manual with schematics. Replace the transistor, then remove the connector on the board that services the pop bumpers. Power up, and if the transistor holds, the problem is a bad coil or short in the playfield wiring. If it smokes, you have a board issue.
Get an ohm meter, and check the coil wire (disconnected from coil), to ground. If shorted, then look for a burnt wire somewhere in the bundle. Also, can't remember if Pop bumpers have diodes, but did you re-wire the coil in the correct orientation? If no diode, doesn't matter the orientation.

Flashers not working can sometimes be missing ceramic resisters that have fallen off their board.

When I had a pinbot, it came with a lot of missing resistors. They were sitting on the bottom of the cab. Replacing them solved the problem

BTW, you have your iron way too hot....you're burning the solder joints.

Post a clear picture here of the wires+coil that you replaced, showing the orientation of the diode.

For future technical pinball clarity... You can't "wire a coil wrong"... You could however, put the wrong wires on the wrong side of a DIODE. The diode orientation is the critical piece here, not what wire was on what side of the coil.

Just as a sanity check, did you replace them with like transistors? Not all TIP's are the same. NPN vs PNP.

I would suggest that you replace the jet bumper coil with light bulbs while you try to find the main problem. 2 flashers bulbs connected in series should do the trick. If the lights are on when the jet bumper isn't supposed to be on you still have a problem, but you will not burn the TIP122 instantly. Still keep the game on for as short as possible if the bulbs are on.

U50 is also responsible for turning Q78 and Q79 on. Check input pins 5 and 6, they both have to be low (less then 0.7 Volt) for the output pin 4 to be on.

That's great. Do you have a manual? Do you have a DMM and a logic probe?

This kind of damage has done damage to the CPU board for sure. I would also bet that the fuses are not the correct value, when getting a used machine you must check all fuses before you even plug it in.

You need to test first before randomly replacing parts. There is a limited number of times that you can replace a TIP before you damage the board.

Let me know when you have the tools and I will assist you in fixing these minor repairs.

I recently fixed the visor problem you describe on my Pinbot, it’s somehat common. The visor motor by design sometimes goes clockwise, sometimes counterclockwise. If it runs into any resistance it reverses direction. There are two switches on he assembly — one triggered when the targets are fully up, and the other when the targets are fully down. In my case when the motor went one direction it hits the switch on the side without triggering it, but with enough force to make the motor reverse. The fix was to adjust the switch arms so they trigger on both directions the motor turns.

Hope that helps!

That is perfect!

Having the diode backwards creates a dead short...it would absolutely smoke a transistor. It's one of the reasons that on the next Gen wpc boards, Williams moved the diodes to the board to keep operators from wiring them backwards when replacing coils.

Yes this is wired incorrectly. For future repairs you always replace diodes when you replace coils. Also the silver band on the diode always faces the power wire. You can tell which wire is the power wire by a number of ways. It's listed in the manual, the wire is a larger gauge wire then the other and sometimes there are two wires. In this case all 3 are there to let you know that the red/ white wires are the power wires. Now that there has been a dead short you need to replace the driver, predriver, the coil diode and check the coil for the correct resistance. Now when you replace the driver you can upgrade to a TIP102 instead of a TIP122 as they are 60% stronger. As for the diode I upgrade to a 1n4007, these can be used for any 1n400x diodes in the game.

You can test ZR-3 thru ZR-8 for being shorted. But your other issues require the board to be installed in the machine for further testing.

Also when you install the CPU board you need to leave 1J19 connector off the board until you are sure that there is no issues with the pop.

This couldn't happen if the connector was off. This is a must so that you can power on the game to do the final testing.

You can leave it in a do testing before replacing the predriver and driver.

There is two ways to active the special solenoids, the cpu can activate the coil in solenoid test and the game can activate the coil by a switch closing on the play field which applies a ground to the 1J18 connector which will go to U-45 or U-50. The zener diode which is in between the 1J18 connector and U-45 or U-50 chip is tied to ground. If the zener shorts it's the same as the switch being stuck closed, which will lock the coil on and melt it.

On Pinbot it is hard to hear a locked coil because the visor motor goes into the limit switch test as soon as you turn it on.

This happens often, its an easy test, with 1J18 disconnected set DMM to ohms and place leads on zener, note reading then reverse leads and note readings. If it is shorted it will have a low reading both directions. Since your issue is special solenoid 6 you need to test ZR7. This is on page 59 of the manual. You also need to test if the pop skirt switch is stuck closed which will also lock on a coil, you can do this by checking ohms from the ground braid to the connector 1J18 pin 9. This should be infinity until you press the skirt then it should drop to zero ohms.

Don't have schematics in front of me, but likely you can't test any diode in circuit...There's parallel resistance around it and that's what you're measuring. But the fact you're measuring something indicates that the diode isn't shorted. Holding down the pop skirt was to test the switch at the skirt, not zr7.

Go back and read what grumpy wrote...make sure the connector is off the board for the diode test as that might isolate it, and test the switch at the connector with it off the board, not at the diode.

I think you misunderstood the switch test...you should be checking the pin on the connector that your holding in your hand after you pull it off the board. Not the pin on the board. If your getting 5.5 ohms between ground and a connector that's free of the board then your meter isn't working. Or you have some serious playfield wiring issues.

Are you sure it was 5.5 ohms or was it 5.5k ohms?

So then test the other zeners to see what they read.

This mean they are all bad or your meter is not showing the k ohms. Normally when I test them on board I read 5k ohms both directions.

I was under the understanding that the top was bad and the other 2 pops were ok.

Did you separate the 2 red wires when you removed them? If so you can wire nut the 2 red wires back together but leave them off the coil.

No but the power goes from one coil to the next and so on. If you separated the red wires then the power stops right there and any coil down the line will not work.

4.8 k ohms is fine, but ZR-7 is testing funny, so cut it off the board. The board will work with out the zener diodes until you have a replacement. Also there is another way to test the zener diodes if the board is installed in the game.

Just to expand a little on Grumpy's excellent help so you'll understand better what's going on....

The coils all have DC+ power to one leg all the time when the game is turned on. That's the red wire...it jumps from one coil to the next. The cpu through the big TIP transistors are switches and they switch ground to the other side of each coil....so that the coils can fire independently, there's a separate switch or transistor with a separate ground wire...usually a banded color wire, to the other leg of the coil. The coil is a big magnet and when the transistor switches ground to the coil it completes the circuit. Current flows through the circular windings of the coil and creates a magnetic field. When the ground is removed to turn the coil off, the magnetic energy has to go somewhere. The diode on the coil keeps it from going back to the board and damaging sensitive logic circuits. The small transistor on the board is just a small switch for the larger transistor. The larger one is capable of handling the higher current to the coil whereas the smaller one is controlled by the logic circuits.

Just a brief 101 of coils and maybe will help you understand how it all works together.

There are so many DMM available and they all react a bit different, it does add a bit of frustration when helping people. For me I need to use a meter every day at work so I count on my Fluke 77 meter for over 25 years now. ZR-7 can also be open which will give an infinity reading.

Right now is the board in the game?

With j-19 disconnected and j-18 connected, turn on the power. Take your logic probe and connect it to the five volt and ground test points on the cpu board. Then probe the j-18 connector, all pins should be a high except for 1,6 and 7 as they are not connected. If this is good then probe pin 2 which is SS #3 and then press the left pop bumper skirt, the high should go low each time you press the skirt. Then repeat this for all 3 pops and both slings.