there is likely acid damage, but its under the holder. or check and make sure there are actually contacts on both ends of each battery position. The contacts can get broken off leaving one end of the batter touching noting but insulation.

The adjust failure I think has to be reset by the buttons inside the coin door. I think you press the middle one then one of the others but don't remember and it should reset to attract mode.

Hope that helps some.
Tim

1. When you get the "adjust failure", do you have the coin door closed when you power the game on? If you open the door and then power it on, do you get the message "factory setting"? If you do not have acid damage and have installed new batteries, my guess is that you need a new battery holder. There are steps that you go through to determine if this is the case. I will try to find it and post it.

2. You need to rebuild that flipper. It is pretty easy. Sounds like it is binding. Check to make sure the wires are connected firmly.

3. On this one, loosen the four screws for the assembly and move it slightly. It is also binding. Find the right spot where it will move freely and then retighten the screws. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, but this is common for these types of assemblies.

Here is the link for adjustment failure http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#factory It is 3n on the page.

check out this link for some information on your error message. I had the same issue with my Pinbot and it was that my battery was not making contact.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#System_11_.22Adjust_Failure.22_and_.22Factory_Setting.22

Kick out arm in the eye sounds like it is simply gummed up. It is easy to remove just a couple of screws. Then completely disassemble clean it really good, I use a Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner, but some simple green and then polish metal parts with some 0000 steel wool will do just fine. Then lube the metal parts that touch with Super Lube Synthetic Grease.

156880.jpg

Here is what the response I got regarding lubrication.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lubrication-1

As far as your flipper it may feel like nothing is binding but as a first step disassemble the flipper and check that the coil sleeve is okay and that the coil has not overheated and become distorted. Clean everything in the flipper if there is no damage. No lubrication on the flipper parts! Probably best just to rebuild the flippers.

Let us know how it goes.

Al

I'd start by checking the solenoid V+ 25 volt path and A/C select relay for operation, here's how it works:

"Multiplexing works like this; when the bank select relay is de-energized, solenoid
power (25 volts) is connected to bank "A". Then only solenoids 1A to 8A can be
driven by the driver transistors. There is no power available to bank "C". The "A"
bank is usually reserved for coils and bank "C" for flashers.
When the bank select relay is energized, solenoid power V+ (25 volts) is connected
to bank "C". Then only solenoids 1C to 8C can be driven by the driver transistors.
There is no power available to bank "A". The "C" bank is usually reserved for flash
lamps."

Pop the hood. Look at the bottom of the cab. Any ceramic resistors laying around down there?

That's probably the cause of your missing flashers.

If coincidentally all of them were broken, this is possible.

Here's the quote from the repair guide on how to check the A/C select if the resistors are not all broken:

"First Test the Solenoid A/C Select Relay!
If the solenoid A/C select relay is not working correctly, you will have all kinds of coil problems. A messed up A/C relay, if stuck on bank "C", won't give any power to coils 1 to 8. If the relay is constantly energized (stuck on bank "C"), it's probably because it's driver transistor (either Q7 or Q8) is shorted. If it's stuck on bank "A" (where the relay sits at rest) or won't energize, the flashlamps in the game won't work.

I recommend the first thing you do is to test the solenoid A/C select relay. To do this, take your aligator test wire and connect it to the metal tab on transistor Q7 (Fire! or before) or Q8 (Big Guns or later). Then with the game on and in attract or diagnostic mode, touch the other end of the aligator clip to the ground strap in the backbox. You should hear the A/C select relay click on and off on the power supply or Auxiliary power driver board.

If you don't hear the relay "click", you should now test transistor Q7/Q8. The quick and easy way to do this is:

Turn the game off.
Put your DMM on ohms (buzz tone).
Put one lead on the ground strap in the backbox.
Touch the other lead to the metal tab on transistor Q7/Q8.
If you get zero ohms (buzz), the transistor is bad! (shorted on)"

True Wayout.

When I got my pinbot, none worked. Most ceramics were laying on the bottom of the cab.. the other flashers, like the Energy Value ones had just burned out..

SO, yes, check all of the above.. AND look for any burnt bulbs. Pinbot is one of those games that was played a lot. Could be a mix of a bunch of things.

PINBOT CIRCUITS ACTIVAT>WENJOIUONas,.asd...

Bummer about the machine, but out of the 5 machines I've moved into my house, only 1 did not have issues when I got it into the basement. This is what happens when you move them unfortunately. Now you'll have a little more respect for the vendors/operators that were moving these things around all over all the time.

Not sure what you mean by tested right under 500...500 ohms? Seems to me you are not testing the bridge correctly. It needs to be removed from the circuit first, and each diode tested for forward and reverse bias. On each set of terminals take a diode test reading in both directions, for a total of 8 readings ( 2 reading on each diode ). The diodes will read OPEN in one direction & the breakdown voltage will be shown on the meter in the other direction ( typically .4-.6volts ).

Did you confirm that the problem is on the power supply board? Disconnect 3J5 & 3J6. If F5 doesn't blow you probably have a problem elsewhere, if you still blow F5 then there's definitely something wrong on the PSU board. F5 serves the 12VDC to 5VDC conversion, that feeds the displays through 3J5, main logic through 3J6, also feeds the +/-12VDC unregulated through 3J6 to the sound board.

I haven't read everything in between, sorry, but as for the adjuster failure, that's the batteries and corrosion, replace with a satellite pack inside the head, removed all corrosion. You can get by this with quick on/off flicks.

As for the plunger for the eye being stuck up, when you turn off the machine, does it stay up? If so, rebuild the mech, if not, you likely have a locked on coil and a shorted transistor, which may segue into your blowing fuse issue.

As for the flashers, looks like that has been covered, but on pinbots, these do get blown more than other games it seems given how much they go off. Most of mine where burnt out, and the other's had the 330 ohm ceramics falling out.

yes, or component failure, anywhere within the red box below. If you have no experience in electronics, a replacement board is a viable option to consider.
pinbotpsu1.jpg

locked on this thread for my pinbot issues

If the rectifiers are giving you the same values, they are probably working properly, granted you tested them with nothing connected to them in diode test mode and went around to make sure none of the diodes in the bridge were shorted.

Your next step would be to check the diodes on the power supply, the two 1n4001s. If they have shorted, that will definitely cause fuses to blow. If any are shorted, you'll also need to inspect the surrounding components for failures.

Don't forget to check the obvious. When I got my PinBot, none of the flashers were working. Went trhough the usuals, fuses, transistors, flasher boards, etc, then I realized that they were just burned out. Yes, every single flasher, pops, sun, ramps, backboard, even topper, had burned out years ago and never been replaced. Doh!

Comments on above:

1) As you have found out, replacing the fuse repeatedly is not going to fix the problem.

2) CN1X12 is the AC input to the power supply board. I have the same Rottendog supply in my F-14. It is the equivalent to connector 3J1 of the stock power supply D-8345. If you are disconnecting this connector, then yes of course the fuse F5 om the Rottendog won't blow, because there is no power input to BR1 without it. Are you talking about BR1 on the power supply, or are you talking about 6BR1 mounted to the wall of the backbox (lamp rectifier)?

3) I don't see any problem there - .645 should be fine for forward bias on those diodes. For reference .7 volts is nominal for a silicon diode.

4) Stopping when you have a problem is a good thing. This game really needs to be gone through, and this is not easy for a beginner with little electronics background. There's a lot to it. This can be difficult and time consuming, not to mention frustrating. Recommended: A lot of reading of the repair guides, pinwikis and such before poking around. A second set of knowledgeable eyes on site would really help you here.

5) Why part it out? It certainly sounds repairable. IMO, parting out is something you do to a game that is seriously a disaster - such as a flood - if there are any good parts left at all. People restore games that have many problems, sometimes they have to replace lots of parts, components, rebuild the harnesses, repaint the cabinets and replace playfields. A game that is having some electrical problems is not a good reason to part it out (again - just my thoughts) It just seems you may be (don't take it the wrong way) in way over your head at this time.

That smell may have been a cap leaking/burning up. Physically inspect all your electrolytic caps on the power supply and elsewhere, including the ones on the relay boards on the underside of the playfield.

Disconnect your power supply connectors, test out your incoming AC voltages from the transformer (if you are comfortable with doing that). I'd also inspect solder tabs on high voltage areas like coils and surrounding components to make sure nothing is touching anywhere and shorting out on the underside of the playfield. Pictures may help at this point.

A wire hanging off/lack of a connection is termed an "open". An unwanted connection between another part of the electrical circuit is a "short".

The photo itself looks o.k., but the visual tells only part of the story. Components can be bad and show no visual indicators.

Some things I noticed immediately in your photos.
> Yellow C11232 relay in the photo has a big hole in it. That's bad...and probably the source of the smell you reported.
> Those batteries need to come off that motherboard

Also, if you are rebuilding the flippers, replace the switches for the flipper buttons too if they look very worn. The current for the coil travels through them and if they are not making a good contact, the flippers will be weak.

Great photo set. Agreed with replacing that relay. Made sure you replace it with the correct relay, there are ac and DC ones and it matters what type you use. The relay also has to have the same number of solder lugs on it.

For like 80$ you can get it repaired.

Contact Clive at coin op cauldron. Send him the power board too. It's worth the investment.