A few things to check after moving any game...

- Make sure all of your ROMs are seated properly.
- Make sure all fuses in the game are still in place, test them, and replace any blown fuses.
- Check all the connectors on the board side, not just on the harness side. A lot of time the connectors to the board wiggle loose. I'd recommend unplugging and re-seating all of your connectors on both ends of the harness.
- Make sure that the tilt/slam tilt mechanism is fine.
- Try to enter the menus when it's powered up. Just enter the service menu and exit back out if you can.

You'd be surprised at how just how many times just those few things matter. It's pretty common for a game to have a few issues after a move. My Twilight Zone (second pin) had a handful of loose connections after moving it to my basement, and I was worried that it was something serious. After 10 minutes of unplugging and plugging back in connectors, I was all set.

My guess is that you've missed a connector along the way. I'm sure you've probably done this already, but pop up the playfield and look under if way in the back for any connectors you missed. Also make sure the ground strap is screwed down under the wingnut of the backbox floor.

Go thru the connectors again, especially the ribbon cables. Make sure the red line on the cable is meeting with pin 1 of that connector. AND make sure the connector is lined up properly and not missing any pins.

Are the computer boards screwed down well? Loose boards in the backbox will cause funny issues.

Also, a question: was the machine working when you picked it up (and did you see it work)? Or are you just taking the seller's word it works?

Try cycling thru the adjustment menus from inside the coin door as Jar said above.

I have had 7 different pins at this point and 4 out of the 7 have had issues when I brought them home and fired them up.

They sell a pen made like a paint brush that has fiberglass bristles and it's called a scratch brush on Amazon. If you don't have one go get one, they are less than 10.00 bucks and as jar said clean and reseat ALL connections I'm sure that's all it is. If it worked when you looked at it and you didn't drop it while moving you have some dirty connections or something's hooked up wrong.
Let us know.

Did your friend also disconnect it for you, or was that the seller?

Something isn't connected correctly.

Most connectors wont let you connect into other connectors as most are keyed. So it's kinda hard to make an improper connection.

My thought is that you have shifted a connector on a board down and you're not seeing it. Carefully examine where the connectors are plugged into on the boards. Are there any header pins not connected up?

Have you checked all fuses?

True,But sometimes those keyed little blocks fall out and will fit onto another connector.

Yep.

I think he's got something shifted.. or something wasn't connected correctly on the power board.

If you can't tell if you've connected something wrong, what you can do is download the schematics. They will tell you what colored wires should be in each connector etc.

This link has a picture of the backbox connectors. It might help: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1796&picno=21852

Yes Sir,The schematics are a huge help...Man,That's one thing I hate about taking the backbox head off of a game it can be a real pain.

Indeed. Anything newer than a system 3-7 can be a pain in the ass! That's why they made them foldable.

I had to pop off a taxi head once. Ugh. I took a bunch of pictures so it was fine.. but I still connected the display ribbon cable wrong.

I hope this guy gets his pinbot going. Such an amazing game and first pin.

Hopefully he will get it going,We will wait till he post's back his results.

Pain in the ass it is...I don't think I will ever do that again,Wasn't fun!!

Hah! With all you guys helping, he'll have it up and running tonight!

Lost_in_space.gif

.....PARTIAL LINK-UP!!....

NOW I SEE YOU!!!!!!

The music that follows that is awesome.

!

IE2ZY.gif

Yes, a 44 or 47 in each.

I had the same problem but with both the left outlane and left inlane switches not working. The contacts were dirty and the switches needed adjusting, and that did the trick.

Congrats on getting it up and running!

Nice goin'!!

Sweet! Glad you got her goin'!

Those pop bumpers light a lot when the energy value is increased.. so chances are they are out. I thought they were 555s for replacing, not 47s. You'll know which when you remove the bagatelle and check them. Coulda sworn they are 555s though.

As for the flashers: double check under the playfield each of the flasher boards. These are the little green circuit boards with 4 sand resistors attached to each. It was common on these older system 11s to have the resistors heat up and become dislodged from the circuit board... and some even falling off completely. If this happens, your flashers won't work. Check the base of the cab for sand resistors lying around.

If you need to replace them, it's quite simple and just a matter of soldering new ones in. Let me know if you have any questions as I just did all my flashers on my pinbot.

Obviously check the bulb for being burnt out too.

WooooooooooooHooooooooooooooooooooooo.................
I love it when a plan comes together.

Blackbeard is the man!! way to go!!

Nothing a little elbow grease won't take care of. Looks in pretty good shape. Don't see pinbots helmet that goes over the ramp.

Thanks Mike.

I've gotten so much help on this site that I feel that if I can help out another, I should.

Helping one another is the main goal of this site and enjoying the hobby.

It looks to me like it should clean up real good! Enjoy it!

Actually, your pinbot doesn't look too bad. No wear around the light grid is bonus. And it looks like your spiral ramp's clear guard isn't cracked.

New rubbers, a total playfield breakdown and clean, and rebuilt flippers (and bushings) will probably make that thing sparkle.

Breaking pinbot down was somewhat easy too.. fyi. Just take pics and make some simple diagrams for the reinstall.

I'll have to check mine too - the pop bumpers have 44s that were in there when I got the machine, so I assumed that was the right bulb. The 44s are working but IIRC the pop bumpers don't have bayonet sockets, so you're probably right it's supposed to have 555s!

I remember thinking it was strange cause all other pins I have use 44/47s.

I'm pretty new to this myself, but couldn't one just pop the air bubbles with a pin and then smooth out the mylar with a credit card? I don't know how you would then keep the air popped mylar on the PF though...

Congrats on your first pin though!

Honestly, I'd probably leave the mylar.

On my pinbot I removed mylar strips from below the drop targets and in front of each slingshot. The freeze method worked like a charm, but getting the glue off that was left behind was a complete pain in the ass. I'm not exagerating either. It took forever scrubbing it with a ME and goo gone. And these were 3'' x 3'' strips. You're talking a HUGE mylar piece.

I didn't have any art lifting or anything though..

If you really want to do it, strip the playfield first. The goo gone gets everywhere.

As for the hum, mine has a little hum too. Make sure your boards are screwed in tight. I think a little hum is common here.

Mylar is gone from mine. Was off when I got it, so not sure how hard it was to get off.
I was given a new piece to install if I wanted. Have not put it on, since my use just doesn't add up to much (compared to commercial use).
If the original mylar was still there, I think I would leave it unless it was really badly deteriorated and peeling.

RCA1: DON'T put that mylar on!!!

It's easy to remove the mylar via freezing.. and actually kind of fun. It's the sticky residue left behind which is a complete pain in the a$$ to remove.

Thanks. Yeah, that's what I thought. It was nice of the previous owner to include it, but not interested.

Nice!! Much better!

Looks like it's cleaned up very nicely, good work!

Nice progress.

check and if bad replace coil sleeves, and check for mushrooming on the rods, check EOS switch as well since you'll be under there.

New bushings fixed this for me.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=270

Since it goes down when you hit the other flipper, it's a mechanical stick. your EOS switches are probably OK.

syringe filled with clear coat will do it.