Electrolytics dry out. Replacing it is good practice.
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107 pages, I'm late to the party!
I haven't had my Pinbot long, but I love it, play every day. Had it about 3 months now. Found it right here on Pinside.
I have noticed 2 glitches with my machine. #1, randomly the background music will stop. Once the ball drains and a new ball is put into play, the music starts again.
#2, the solar value switch will occasionally not work. I have tested this several times and every time I test it, it works 100%. I've run diagnostics on it, had a game going and run the ball over the switch and it works 100%. Then, I'll play a game and It won't work for a few times, then not and then it works again. Very frustrating. Any ideas?
Quoted from WeirPinball:#1 could reseat connectors dealing with the sound (not sure without looking them up)
#2 replace the switch
Thanks, will do exactly that.
I'm having a heck of a time finding switches for my Pinbot. Specifically SW-1A-164 for the entrance and exit to the ramp. Searched a lot of sites (Marco, Action Pinball etc.) Nobody has them in stock. Can someone direct me to a supply or solution? I thought about trying to just get the reeds and building my own. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Quoted from RichWolfson:I find Pinball Resource has lots of parts not available elsewhere. You should give them a call or send them an email. You cannot search their website or order online. But they have never let me down.
///Rich
Quoted from sethbenjamin:The magnet switches by M&M Creations are a much more elegant solution than those factory switch stacks, especially if you use one of Freeplay 40’s translucent ramps.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog
Quoted from sethbenjamin:The magnet switches by M&M Creations are a much more elegant solution than those factory switch stacks, especially if you use one of Freeplay 40’s translucent ramps.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog
Quoted from waletboy:I ordered MRS switches as well for my ramp and love them. I do have the old switches if you are interested in them. I will probably never use them again but I do not have the brackets for the switches.
Thanks guys, all good info. Now to search for some plastics.
Quoted from jibmums:That's the large plastic that hangs over the blue ramp and visor. It's supposed to be covered with a decal, like this.
[quoted image]
And to tag along on this...how do you get the 3 screws out that hold that down? Mine just spin and spin. Could not find a nut on the backside. Are they machine threads or wood screws? I really need to get this off because there is a dead spot on my ramp and if I hit the ball up there soft enough, it gets stuck.
Ok, wondering if anyone else has experienced this phenomena.
I had gotten to the point that on launch, I could hit the 100,000 hole on the corkscrew ramp about 95% of the time. Lately, the ball has been acting different on launch. Sometimes it will act as if it gets slowed down as it hits the ramp (or shortly before). When I try to compensate for that, it flies up to the 20,000 hole.
What it comes down to is, it's not consistent. Months ago, it was great. Now, I can get it to the 100,000 hole about 30-40% of the time. Any ideas?
Quoted from vec-tor:Add a metal wire ball guide to the left inside travel path just above the top bumper assembly
area. The ball can nick the outside wall of the plastic spiral.
Awesome. This has got to be it. Sometimes it will travel perfectly and smoothly up the ramp, but I'll bet it hits and deflects at times, causing it to slow down.
Is there a guide for making this? Or do I just freehand it?
It would be nice to have a template for the holes. Are there any measurements to locate the holes? Or do you just eyeball it and hope it's right?
Quoted from ROMM:Would definitely want to have the Vortex ramp in place, along with the 3 posts and rubber in order to mark the upper hole. Get the top of the guide rail in place at the edge of the Vortex base so that the ball can't hit it. Then maybe rotate the bottom leg as needed to find the best angle for a smooth guide path for the ball? I would imagine every machine would be a little different. That's why the skill shot is so inconsistent across different machines in the first place.
I would agree. The only thing you'd want the ball to contact would be the apex of the guide, I'm guessing. I just don't want to make it worse than it is.
I think I just had a flipper coil die on me. Checking coil between right and left flippers and there is a difference. The issue I'm having is, the parts book calls for an FL-23/600-30/2600. There are 2 different coils in there now, an FL-11629/50V on the right and an FL-11630-50V on the left. These coils also have 2 diodes each instead of 1 that I see in the drawings and on order sites. Can someone explain what I might have going on here and what I need to do to get the right part? TIA.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Someone upgraded your game with newer style coils. This type of coil make the EOS switch last longer. I would keep them in there. The FL-11630 coil is the correct replacement power for the FL-23/600-30/2600 coil.
Thanks for the info. Trying to keep up with upgrades and tweaks can be daunting.
Replaced the coil and it's back to normal. Measured resistance on the old coil and found 7 ohms where I should have 4.7 according to charts I checked. In retrospect, this makes sense. When checking the bad coil, if I "helped" it, it would work. When pushing the flipper button, I could see it trying to move.
Thanks again for the help with this.
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