(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

10 years ago


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  • 6,058 posts
  • 464 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by Neight
  • Topic is favorited by 232 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider weirpinball.
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#5235 2 years ago

Anybody have some good teardown pics - want to verify some posts that look kind of jenky...

added some pics

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#5237 2 years ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

The ones you marked with the arrows are all correct.. I just checked it against my pics.

Thanks!

#5239 2 years ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

I'm in the process of doing a tear down as well. I'll check when i get home, but I don't think the post in the last picture is correct. [quoted image]

That was one of the confusing ones - I've seen it both ways. Kind of like the big post so it doesn't take a huge beating.

#5240 2 years ago

Another one that doesn't look right anyone have a pic of this one?

post1 (resized).jpgpost1 (resized).jpg
#5242 2 years ago
Quoted from dq13:

That one is correct. It keeps the ball from jumping behind those two bulbs and getting stuck. I know because I forgot to put it back in one time and the ball jumped behind the two bulbs and it got stuck and I had to take apart the entire ramp structure to put it back in. It was not the most fun I've ever had.

Is it a plastic post with a screw?

1 week later
#5267 2 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

OK - I'm working on a bad onion - every time I fix something, I find something else broken.
This time, the machine does not sense the ball draining until it does a ball search - once it kicks the ball over toward the right, then it scores the bonus, etc. I've checked the switch several times using the ball - The switch closes fine, and was checked with a meter. I'm not sure where to go next. I've checked the relays on the little circuit boards under the playfield, no cold/cracked solder joints, and the wires to the board are solid and look good.
Ideas? Thanks for looking.
(Up next will be the flashers - all the sand resistors are good, ohm out fine, and are solidly connected to the circuit boards.)

check the diode on the switch - sometimes a lead is broken and it touches intermittently

#5269 2 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks

are you talking about the one with the curved end?
like this -

trough (resized).jpgtrough (resized).jpg
1 week later
#5282 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

New issue of the day. Switch 55 error on the right sling. Visual inspection showed no wires out of place, leaf switches make contact easily but don’t register on the Switch Edges test. I did the jumper test with J10 and J8 and bingo, the right sling activates. I recently replaced all the transistors on the Q area above J8 so I wasn’t expecting the board to be the issue. Both sling top and bottom leaf switch aren't registering, so logic states that both switches can’t be bad at the same time? Anyone got another suggestion on where to look?

both switches are tied together check to see if the diode (should only be on one) has a broken lead

1 month later
#5297 1 year ago

Anybody else have this rubber with a screw on the ramp?

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#5299 1 year ago

New pf is getting there...

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#5302 1 year ago

Trying to adjust the target bank but when the motor is at the bottom the targets are 1/4" below the pf. I can't adjust the screws up or the motor won't turn through the full cycle.

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#5307 1 year ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

There should be a bottom plate on the visor motor assembly. Looks like you are missing it. You will not be able to adjust anything with out it.
[quoted image]

I have it off, what I'm trying to say is with that on I can't tighten the screws enough to get it level with the pf without jamming the motor so it won't turn full cycle.

#5308 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

Thanks for this. Can you clarify where these two white wires with no markings are attached to? This is the one anomaly on my setup. [quoted image]

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#5310 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

I have it off, what I'm trying to say is with that on I can't tighten the screws enough to get it level with the pf without jamming the motor so it won't turn full cycle.

Finally figured it out. The screw I used in the right t-nut was too long and wouldn't allow the target bank to sit flush. Phew!

#5314 1 year ago

Mine didn't have one, looks like it was put there to support the entrance.

2 weeks later
#5331 1 year ago

It is supposed to connect the backbox ground to cabinet ground

#5332 1 year ago

DONE

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2 weeks later
#5349 1 year ago
Quoted from Wizbangdoodle:

107 pages, I'm late to the party!
I haven't had my Pinbot long, but I love it, play every day. Had it about 3 months now. Found it right here on Pinside.
I have noticed 2 glitches with my machine. #1, randomly the background music will stop. Once the ball drains and a new ball is put into play, the music starts again.
#2, the solar value switch will occasionally not work. I have tested this several times and every time I test it, it works 100%. I've run diagnostics on it, had a game going and run the ball over the switch and it works 100%. Then, I'll play a game and It won't work for a few times, then not and then it works again. Very frustrating. Any ideas?

#1 could reseat connectors dealing with the sound (not sure without looking them up)
#2 replace the switch

1 week later
#5352 1 year ago
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:

I just realized I am missing the bottom plate to my bank target motor. Anyone know where I can source one?
[quoted image]

This?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11121

#5356 1 year ago
Quoted from Tmendo:

My friend's grandkids "burned out" both flippers by holding them open too long. Wondering what part that he probably needs to replace. Thanks.

Could be a blown fuse or driver transistor or the coil could have fried (or a combo of these) Might be that the eos switches were misadjusted to begin with.

1 month later
#5380 1 year ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

I just finished up a playfield swap and complete restore. Everything was working fine before this.
I'm having this weird issue where the Pops and slings seem to work intermittently. They'll start working, but then in the middle of a game, they all decide to stop working.
I reflowed IJ18 & iJ19 - didn't help
When they stop working, they don't register in switch test mode
I did notice Q77 (i think) was replaced in the past
any thoughts?

dirty switches

1 week later
#5388 1 year ago
Quoted from section88co:

Hoping for some help with a Pinbot chest lamp issue. I haven't played this in a while but now the bottom blue lamp is out, I replaced the bulb and holder with a new one (no led's installed in game). I am not getting voltage across lamp pads on the board but do when I check the yellow/green to red/grey where they come into the board and all other lamps in the game are fine. Is it a bad diode on top of the board? What diode do I need to order? Thanks for any help....

If it is a lamp board with lamp test on wiggle the connector if it lights then you need to reflow the connector. More of a problem than diodes

#5390 1 year ago
Quoted from section88co:

Thanks for the help! There is no connector on the wires coming into the board, they are soldered to it. I have a test light (with no diode test) and I am getting voltage at the wires coming into the board and all the other chest lamps work fine in those rows and columns. I removed the bulb and have no voltage to the pads that the lamp socket makes contact with and do have power to all the others.. Board looks fine with no burn marks or anything so thinking it must be diode.

you can test the diode on the board with a meter

4 weeks later
#5427 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I never go the hardtop route if a replacement playfield is available. It might cost a little more but the end result is far better and totally worth it.

You speak the truth - hardtops, pf protectors, full mylars all suck

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