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PINBOT CENTER POST
I have a Pinbot that does not have a center post.
I bought a reproduction playfield and that has a provision for a center post.
I wonder, did all original Pinbot’s came without a center post or did some of original ones came with a center post?
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Image of exact spot? I can check mine out.
I wonder why mine has no post, since it came standard
F6A9DC51-886C-4C1D-9CE8-8AD4FBE3BBA1 (resized).jpegI was just wondering if anyone here can help and tell me what’s written on the stickers that are on the underside of the playfield. I am doing a playfield swap and are replacing the stickers with new ones. I just seem to miss the stickers that are located near the pop bumpers and in the area above the visor motor.
See pic for example of what stickers I am talking about
THANKS
image (resized).jpgQuoted from jackl:Just acquired my first pin and couldn't be happier!
Congrats.. it was my first pinball too.. absolute fantastic machine, just gives me a 80’s vibe by listening to its sounds.
Cant wait to play it again.. been restoring it and it’s a slow progress
Hi all,
Just wondering if someone can clarify this for me. Under each flipper bat there is a roll pin sticking out of the playfield on the back side..
I don’t see any function to them, except for maybe supporting the flipper bat when it’s in resting position on the topside of the playfield??
I removed them from my old playfield and I can’t recall if the roll pins are actually meant to go trough the full playfield to stick out on the front (art) side of the playfield. The pics I took are not really clear on that either
6458DAEA-E0F1-492B-AA87-C7F5D0AC947B (resized).jpegQuoted from ChrisPINk25:Mine stick out slightly. They are used to align the flippers when tightening them down. You really don’t need them.
Thanks for the info !!
I guess I won’t put them in on my new playfield then .
Quoted from Bublehead:The roll pins are supposed to stay flush, you tap them up from the back when adjusting the at rest position on the flippers. Once you have the at rest position locked in, you tap them back down. Thats how they are supposed to work.
Good to know.. thanks mate !
the roll pins are too big for the pre drilled holes.. I also did not want to risk damaging the clear by drilling bigger holes. I pushed pop rivets up the holes.. they fit nice and snug.. I mounted the flippers and pulled the rivets back out..
That worked out to be perfect solution for me
Hi guys.. got a issue with the GI light wire and the middle pop bumper connection to it..
Can someone tell me where to solder the pop bumper light wire too..
I connected it to the nearest socket (I thought it was soldered to that on my old playfield before), but when I used a 9v battery to check if the lights work, all lights go on accept for this middle pop bumper.
I already replaced the socket in the bumper and checked it by connecting it stand alone and it works..
8168ADCD-87D5-48D1-B345-57FD59B1D557 (resized).jpegF4A6CD91-7AF9-4C06-BF1F-EFAAC542D3A6 (resized).jpegThanks RedFlash
This light of the middle bumper is soldered to the GI wire that goes around the lower pop bumper and energy value lights.. is this correct?
As I look at my old playfield it looks like this, but when I check the connection by putting a 9v battery on it, all lights for on except for this middle pop bumper..
It seems that there are 2 GI Wire loops in this area of the playfield and that the middle pop bumper is currently connected as a bridge between the 2 loops...
Is so odd.. then I connect the middle pop bumper to the GI wire that runs to the bottom pop bumper, then all lights will go on.. that’s a good thing, but it seems like it’s connected to the wrong wire. The other wires I see on the pics are connected the same as on my machine
Hopefully someone can explain or clarify this to me
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Since the pop bumper lights are always on with the GI, I don't think it matters what wires you use as long as it is a GI string.
Thanks ChrisPINk25 , I thought so too, but it’s good to hear the opinion of someone else
Quoted from dq13:I recently installed a new CPR plastics set. I'm not certain if the mini playfield is thicker than the original, but it sits flush on the pop bumper caps. It plays fine, but I can't even get the screw halfway on the left side down because of how it sits. I did recently do a Hardtop, but I don't think there is any impact on how the pop bumpers sit after the rebuild; but thought it's worth mentioning if I've overlooked something there. Anyone else have this happen/recommend a fix?
UPDATE, RESOLVED: I replaced the pop bumper bodies with new ones, which apparently are taller than the originals.
Have a look at the Williams blue book.. (on planetarypinball.com) it will show you almost parts and part numbers for Pinbot. This could help avoiding issues like this.
Hi guys,
I need some help with my Pinbot wiring. I did a playfield swap and now the right side of the playfield GI won’t work. The fuse blows. I suspect an issue with the wirering. I connected one of the pop bumpers wires to a different GI wire because after testing with a battery the middle pop bumper would not lid up, but connecting it to the other GI wire, made all bulbs light up when I did a battery test.
I wonder if someone here is willing and able to check (see attached sketch) if my wiring is wrong and can tell me what to change.
Help is much appreciated
IMG_4307-01 (resized).jpgQuoted from ROMM:A few questions. Where can I get the decal that goes on top of the target bank? The one with the stripes to match the playfield when the bank is down?
Where can I get the “advance X” decal?
Got mine from pinball.center. They are located in Germany
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:I got my advance X from Freeplay40 with the new ramp I purchased.
Got my new ramp from Freeplay40 too. Mine came without the X… he must have forgotten to put one on. Only recently realized that the X was supposed to be there. Even though I like to restore my machine as close as possible to what it looked like originally, this X is not a real miss for me. Yes, would like to have it but happy not to have it too
Quoted from ROMM:Hmm I'm not seeing that decal on their site. Anyone else have any leads on the target bank decal?
it’s still there:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/pin-bot/6510/visor-decal-for-pin-bot?c=0
Isn’t this what your looking for?
Got all my decals from them.. was the only shop that I could find that sells all of them. You will get 21% discount as you won’t pay gst
Quoted from ROMM:No that’s the visor. I’m talking about the one that goes on top of the target bank
Oh that one… no sorry can’t help you with that one. Apologies for the misunderstanding.
Let us know if you do find one. I kind of like the idea of having one on my visor. I have a cliffy on it and not to sure if it will still have the desired effect in combo with the cliffy
Quoted from ROMM:backlight the cool plastic pieces of the astronauts
Good job.. how did you back lid them?
Quoted from ROMM:Under each plastic I used a 3smd light strip from Comet. This is the smallest one they have. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=32219275559014
I found the 3 lights too bright so I put electrical tape on 2 of the led bulbs. Now I realize I can use a brightness adjuster. This would be better as then you could more evenly light the underside of the plastic by having all three bulbs on and the brightness decreased. https://www.cometpinball.com/products/brightness-adjusters?variant=12493660618796
Thanks ROMM
LIFT RAMP ISSUE:
My lift ramp does not lift fully up. Everything is working fine, but when it raises the lift arm comes all the way forward in the guide slot then settles back to about the half way
position in the guide. This makes the ramp just not high enough for a ball to go under and the ball scrapes the edge of the ramp.
Is there some sort of adjustment
that can make the lift mechanism not fall back halfway?
Anyone here had the same issue and is able to provide a solution?
Quoted from Billc479:Going by memory - the lift ramp is a real pain to get to
It’s working now.. I disassembled it and put it back together and now the ramp lifts up high enough.. was probably a alignment issue I guess
Quoted from dddanielll:Anyone have a photo of where they're supposed to go?
Mate, this is a really easy one.
These wires connect to one of the 2 switches on your blue ramp..
Disconnect the connector, remove the blue ramp,
Solder the wires back on the switch on bottom side of the ramp and put everything back together again..
Just checking if this is normal or not…
I previously before restoring it, have not played my Pinbot enough to notice this, but now I have.
The sound effects don’t always play. Example:
Going up the blue ramp, the effect created by the first switch and the explosion effects then hitting the mini playfield are not always heard.
Same goes for other effects like the one you hear when hitting the colored targets. They all work 99% of the time, but sometimes one of these effects is not heard when hitting that target.
It doesn’t bother me at all, but I was just wondering if this is normal. It’s almost as if there is too much happening at once for the sound effects to keep up with the action.
I got a new CPU btw, so that’s not a issue. All diagnostics show the game is working fine.
PRICING QUESTION
Hi all, I finished my extended restoration of my Pinbot and was wondering what the value of my machine would be in USD.
I do not want to sell it. This machine is a absolute keeper, but I am still curious on what the value would be of this machine.
Besides taking the whole thing apart, cleaning all parts and fixing/replacing broken parts. I did the following works to my Pinbot:
- New CPR playfield and plastics
- New GI wiring and sockets
- New Rubbers and Flipper buttons
- Fully fitted out with Cliffy protectors, post sleeves, ball guides and carbon post bases.
- Sanded, repaired, re-painted cabinet, finished with 3 layers of clear (acrylic automotive paint)
- Sand blasted and re-painted legs, apron and coin door
- Rebuild of all pop bumpers
- CPU board by dumbass
- Displays and display board by dumbass
- New decals
- Replaced all coil sleeves
- New ramps (blue ramp and flip ramp)
- Replaced all metal ball guide flaps with new blue steel ones
- New shooter springs
- LED lights (except for 1251 flashers)
I probably forgot to list a few other things, but pretty much everything I’ve done is listed here
I’m curious to find out what it’s worth
0B3D2EEC-710C-4DA7-BCE3-A69488AB73F6 (resized).jpeg0F4D1471-ED54-4815-8C8B-61D6E17EE732 (resized).jpeg1AF09CF1-584F-48CF-87C7-7CE71987EAA2 (resized).jpeg2617D8FD-4ADB-4099-8DC3-BFCBAB3C28F6 (resized).jpeg2E354664-BA68-4D1E-87BD-032F9452014B (resized).jpeg53BB3788-DC2B-4B42-9F18-11362BD5FBBA (resized).jpeg7A91A4D8-608E-4ED4-9A01-BC1EC12E7B06 (resized).jpeg7C5A52FD-A13B-48A8-ABFC-0CF1467657F9 (resized).jpeg7E111611-C621-4274-8747-AC2E29F34399 (resized).jpeg8F928EE1-42B6-4A78-9A21-BA825FF314B0 (resized).jpeg9F1FED9B-ECB1-4537-9D4F-29CF0CFE9453 (resized).jpegBBA912E2-9A64-4672-8955-0FC3BE6FFB30 (resized).jpegD0E7FF17-7AEA-48C7-AAE1-8317519EFE49 (resized).jpegE0D08F29-2485-4797-B597-CF2756A54478 (resized).jpegF42094E8-DD67-4CCC-AC46-68AD80FBFAC6 (resized).jpegI have mine set up as 3 and I have the difficulty settings on hardest too. My game also has no post in between the flippers..
I like it to be hard, so it’s A: more rewarding when you play a good game and B: since it’s harder, over time it will keep me interested in playing the game over and over again, trying to beat my previous best
Funny enough.. often my best games are the ones where I pretty much immediately drained the first ball or 2 and got all of my score with the last ball and extra balls. I’m curious if this is something that happens to others out here too.
Quoted from dr_spidey:Anyone have a source for the yellow rectangle standup target?
Funny.. I had trouble finding the green round one as well as the yellow rectangle one. They do pop up in the various shops at some point. Took me 2 months to find the green one.
If your planning to keep this machine in your collection for many years to come, then I suggest you look for space faces for all targets. So you always have one at hand if needed. By saying that, these faces don’t seem to break that often
I have not noticed any influence by the cliffy. This was the first time I got a ball stuck up there.. I recon the freshly waxed playfield hay have had an effect on the ball.. balls always fly after a fresh coat of wax.
Twice I had a ball flying against the edge of the plastic that’s covering the blue ramp when shooting a ball up the ramp.
Quoted from TAVsPlace:I need to replace the ribbon cables
Just measure the length of your cables and go to your local radio parts shop and buy yourself the connectors and ribbon cables.
It’s a quick and really easy job to replace them. No tools needed other then a pair of scissors to cut the cable to length.
Quoted from slochar:The door might be sagging
My best guess too.. not sure if you know but you can adjust the hinges to help level out the door
Quoted from BadBrad97:I would love to find the rubber gaskets that blocks the light around the displays.
I actually bought some 3mm thick pressed board and cut bezels out of it for the displays, the face and light box.. i curved the board to make the straight corners and to form the shape for the face.
quick and easy job and it did the trick.. no more light bleed
Quoted from WeirPinball:want to verify some posts
The ones you marked with the arrows are all correct.. I just checked it against my pics.
Quoted from orangegsx:I have a couple full sets of decals left too, located in US[quoted image]
Good shop with excellent customer service.. I only found that some of their decals not sticking very well.. I also got decals from a local shop with similar results. I recon it’s the same everywhere
My tip: put something heavy on your plastics aster applying the decal and let it sit for a few days.. your decals won’t come off after.
Quoted from orangegsx:did I send you some?
Oops.. I was actually trying to refer to the pinball center Europe shop.
You have a shop? Can you post a link plz?
It’s always good for future reference.
Quoted from TAVsPlace:Question is it supposed to be there?
TAVsPlace , it’s not on mine either, but it looks like the guide used is same as the guide at the advance planet (green) target
Quoted from RCA1:Installed the backbox light baffle
I could not get my hands on one so I decided make one myself out of a strip of 3mm mdf that I made wet and bend in shape.. once dried it keeps it’s shape and a little bit of adhesive spray will keep it secured to the back board without damaging it in case I ever want to remove it in the future.
I used the same technique to make baffles for the led score displays.
I have settings on hardest and the only change I made to that is to carry on the planets you scored to the next ball. I have a 3 ball game and no post between the flippers either.
I find that I have no issue with the drop target timer being too short.
I like to have the game set up at the most difficult settings possible without it being a pain to play. This way I believe the game stay challenging enough to enjoy playing it for a long time
Quoted from ROMM:So you have the dt timer set for 1 second?
No.. silly.. you are exaggerating now ROMM
These are actually the hardest game settings (see image).. as I said, the only adjustment I made was to change planets memory to yes.
The game is still very enjoyable. Plenty of time to hit the 3 planet targets before they reset. In fact, that’s pretty much the only way I score planets in the game as the advance planet target on the right side is really hard to hit.
77C6C0E1-0B7D-47C4-A171-FEC9B2FD126F (resized).jpegQuoted from Mrg50:I wasn’t aware that you could disable the auto adjust for the drop targets and just pick an active time
You can actually pretty much adjust every setting to your personal likings..
Regardless if you changed settings to make the gameplay easier or harder, Pinbot is always a super fun and enjoyable game to play
Quoted from ROMM:I would definitely pay a little more for a machine that already had the newer, cooler looking translucent blue and red ramp
I’m the complete opposite. The red and blue ramp is awesome but ultimately I prefer Pinbot to be restored as close to the original as possible. I have one already but if I had to buy one I would actually pay more for a machine containing original parts.
Funny.. I also bought that ramp from freeplay40, but I actually got his original one that he used as a base model for making his own ramps.
Hi all,
I have been struggling previously to find the correct info in the rubbers used on Pin-Bot. The sheet shown on this site previously and the info I found on Titan is not lining up with what I have on my machine.
I want to replace my bands with Titan bands and I don’t want to go for another struggle finding what I need.
So, I decided to start from scratch to find out once and for all what size and quantity rubbers are used on a PIN-Bot.
I made a sheet that’s in the style of the manual. So, people can print and ad it to their manual. Hopefully this will help a lot of people.
I still have a couple of issues before I can finalize my sheet:
A: The 3 bands on my mini playfield are 1 ¼ size, but the 2 top ones are old and stretched out. The lower one is new and too small to fit on the top ones but also seems a wee bit too big for itself. What is the correct size of these bands?
B: I am not 100% sure on the size of rubber nr. 4,3 and 7 either.
Can anyone here help me solve these issues? Any other progressive comments are more than welcome. Let me know if I have made a mistake somewhere.
Thanks guys !
IMG_4894 (resized).JPGPinBot Rubber parts-01 (resized).jpgQuick one..
The flipper return lanes are mounted with 3 screws. The middle one is a wood screw.
The Philips head on one of mine is worn and I like to replace the screw. Problem is that I can’t find any matching screw?
It’s a washerhead wood screw that’s about 1-5/8 long (42mm) and G4 (2.9mm) thick.
Can anyone help me here?
IMG_2908 (resized).jpegIMG_2909 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgHi all,
Im just after a partnumber.. this post between the flippers (see pic) has partnumber 02-4195 according to the manual.
So I ordered it and it turns out to be to short.
My pinbot came without this post and the replacement playfield came with a pilot hole for it. I have actually not reference material.
Can anyone give me the correct part number or link to the correct post size?
or is this the right size, but it needs a t-nut?
Thanks !
Pinside_forum_1553862_345554 (resized).jpgQuoted from Blackbeard:correct fuse values
There should b a instruction decal above the power board, telling you what fuses to use.
Also loot at this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-fans-and-owners-club?tq=Power+supply+fuse&tu=
Quoted from Vin-bot:Im just after a partnumber
Anyone here that can help me? I tried looking in other system 11 machine manuals, but could not find a part number there. I also can’t find any pics on pinside showing the backend on the underside of the playfield..
Can’t seem to find anything for this straightforward basic part.
Thanks Freeplay40 , I found that one and I ordered it. But when I want to put it in, I noticed that the thread is way to short. It does not go all the way trough the playfield.
Or maybe it is correct, but it needs a T-nut. i have not seen any documentation showing that there is a t-nut there under the playfield.
Quoted from Freeplay40:T-Nut seems appropriate
Thanks Freeplay40 .. I will put a t-nut on it then.
Quoted from jibmums:I think the manual may be in error regarding the part # for that post
putting a washer between the post and playfield will b the way to go.
I also got one of those wood screw posts, but I recon the option with the t-nut will be a more sturdy option. Do you agree? What do u think?
Quoted from TronGuy:Any repro this?
Doesn’t look that bad.. mine looked simmilar.
I gave it a good clean to remove the yellow stain.
The only place I could find replacement decals at the time was at pinball.center (a German shop)..
Quoted from Blackbeard:I tried twisting off the transparent cover, but it doesn't spin.
Be patient and keep trying to twist it. Eventually it will come off.
Seriously: they actually are screwed of riveted on the plastics from underneath. So you will have to remove plastics to reach the bulbs.
Quoted from TronGuy:Yeah same length.
Ok, I guess I will reserve judgement on the spring until I level the game better.
Although the blue spring is indeed the correct one for Pinbot, I found it a bit to powerful for my likings.. after aligning everything up perfectly and waxing the playfield. I choose the green spring instead. Powerfully enough to reach the top without risking damaging the top of the ramp.
Quoted from TronGuy:The blue is the weakest one they make.
I stand corrected.. my memory must be blurred.. haha..
My machine came with a red spring and a broken top part of the ramp.. after I fixed up the machine I actually bought a standard, a blue and a green spring to see what tention I liked best.
After a wax, new tip, sleeve and a (as good as perfect) alignment, I did put the blue one on first.. and the green one second.. the green one was just perfect for my likings and I never even tried putting the standard one on.
So yeah.. blue one could never have been to strong..
Just saying that it’s only a small effort and cost to try a green spring. You might end up liking it better than the blue one, like I did.
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