Pinbot
Williams, 1986You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vec-tor.
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Quoted from mhkohne:I don't believe that there would be enough slack in the cables.
That problem was one of the upshots that Data East made about
their pinball versus Williams pinball. The tec. grabbed the Data East
LW3 playfield and pulled the whole thing out of the game and rested
the playfield against the cabinet. "Now try that with a Williams playfield".
If the lamps stay on, then they are #1251's. Pinbot was the cross over to #89 bright flashers.
#1251 stay on and pulse when Pinbot talks. " I see you".
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I'm looking for the two plastic coin mechs and the two retaining brackets that hold them in place on the pinbot coin door.
OUCH! That was Wico's design. Good luck.
Quoted from Darscot:This made me think of the mini playfield rubber, the flyer has the third rubber blocking part of the lane back to the plunger. Is there an official or even a "pinside official" set up for rubbers on the mini playfield.
The mini top playfield from the factory "new in the box" was rubbered
with the lower ring blocking the ball entrance to the shooter lane.
It was done to control the skill shot and point scoring.
Also, the game came with two 2" spacers that were attached to the back leg feet
that raised the game to a steeper slope than regular games at that time.
Quoted from jibmums:got a pic of an original leg/foot setup?
The closest thing to the original set up is page 90 from the book PINBALL-
- the lure of the silver ball -- Gary Flower & Bill Kurtz. The game they show
- is Gottlieb Arena that has a 1" spacer on the back legs. Pinbot was double
- that size. They have a picture of Pinbot on page 94 without the back spacer.
- I have one that I saved many years ago but do not know where it is at.
- A lot of operators did not know what to do with the two spacers and most
- likely threw them away. But Pinbot factory playfield setting was a steep pitch.
Quoted from jibmums:Is it something that screws into the leg,
It is a round metal sleeve that fits over the threads of the 3" leg leveler.
- Then the 5/8" nut would be screwed on top of the spacer.
- Then the whole assembly would then be screwed to the bottom of the leg.
- Then the leg assembly would be screwed/mounted to the back of the cabinet.
Quoted from Aniraf:Lastly I noticed here are just “extra” wires tied up around the drop target wire harness. Is this normal?
Yes!!!! Pinbot's wiring harness was prewired for new opto drop target assemblies
that were under development at the time.
However, the game went into production before the final
opto drop target assemblies could be tested/designed.
Quoted from Strummy:There are the ceramic resistor boards under the Playfield. A couple of my resistors were bad and that is what the problem was.
Note: refasten the resistor boards with mini post rubbers...
-- They act like shock absorbers and help keep the resistors from breaking.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Question: When I connect the pinbot visor motor and turn on my machine it runs continuously opening and closing. It is a project machine I am bringing back to life and I am doing initial diagnosis. All tips greatly appreciated.
Switch closes on the motor are not reading? The motor does not know if it is up/down...
Go to switch test and check.
Quoted from cshelden:Is this a DPO hack aka I only have wood screws so I’ll use them instead of machine? Or is it what Williams used with metal standoff posts in Pin*Bot? May have to stick with it.[quoted image]
The screws I have are the washer head 6/32 machine screws.
Quoted from RichWolfson:There most definitely is a bushing. Marco has them. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4259
But look closely as it may be there and you are just not seeing it or it may be in the bottom cabinet as it fell off when you took off the motor bracket.
As for the L brackets. You need something there for sure. I think the L keeps the target guide aligned. Those are https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8494
Both cheap enough to keep that drop bank straight and working smoothly.
///Rich
Also, I believe that there is a thin fish-paper shim that is on the back side of the white spacers.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Thanks!
OEM was a mini post. It is a bad design.
I was able to use a "T" nut and mid size metal post with a 3/16" rubber ring.
Quoted from Cariba:I did notice there was two actuators arms/eject mechanisms if I am not mistaken, one shorter than the other,
Pinbot has:
1) Three eject hole kickers that should have the same angle tip weather left or right.
2) One eject trough kicker that has a shorter/blunt tip as compared to the other three.
Quoted from Skidave:How many degrees in play playfield slope do you have your machines set to? I about to get mine ready and would like some feedback. Thanks
Pinbot OEM had back leg support bushings. With a 3" leg leveler about 2" of the level
was encased with the bushing... add the nut, then the new leg design with builtin screw
thread assembly. In all, not much room to adjust left/right position.
I would check the photo morgue above and you can see a few photos from
intact Pinbots.
Quoted from MadMaxDad:Does anybody else have this on on their topper?
It’s in the left-front corner. I have no idea what’s it for.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like a foot pad.
Quoted from Wizbangdoodle:Ok, wondering if anyone else has experienced this phenomena.
I had gotten to the point that on launch, I could hit the 100,000 hole on the corkscrew ramp about 95% of the time. Lately, the ball has been acting different on launch. Sometimes it will act as if it gets slowed down as it hits the ramp (or shortly before). When I try to compensate for that, it flies up to the 20,000 hole.
What it comes down to is, it's not consistent. Months ago, it was great. Now, I can get it to the 100,000 hole about 30-40% of the time. Any ideas?
Add a metal wire ball guide to the left inside travel path just above the top bumper assembly
area. The ball can nick the outside wall of the plastic spiral.
Pinbot has a few design flaws.
The ball can loft when leaving the spring loaded gate.
The ball shooter needs to hit the ball on the left side, so has to make the
english of the ball force it to go right.
The plastic Spiral Assembly Ramp #31-1402-8
needs some extra material added to the base lip of the outer
side of the first hole drop. By adding a bit of martial to
shore up the hole gap floor wall, it makes the ball have a greater
chance of smoothly going up the spire.
If all parts are aligned, then the game should work with the Blue
ball shooter spring as intended by the OEM.
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Fargo, ND