(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

6 years ago



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  • 342 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by GRUMPY
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#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

Just picked up this beauty last week! Already replaced most of the bulbs with color matching Super Bright LEDS and given it a very good cleaning and wax.
SOOO happy i got this pin!

Nice and welcome to the club. I have two questions.

1-The mini-playfield looks different than typical? Am I seeing that wrong? And,
2-On mine I can never get the index fingers to light on the back box like yours are. I have tried both regular and LEDs. The bulbs are good because they flash, but I never see it like you have it.

You'll find there is so much information here, that there is nothing that will happen to your machine that hasn't happened to someone before you and reported.

///Rich

#2514 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

Backglass reflection?

Yes. Looking closely that is it. Thanks.

///Rich

3 months later
#2770 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I second that! I see this all of the time.

I teach all my "kids" not only how to start a game, but how to play with their friends on multiplayer. And when I show them how to turn the machine on or off, they always say, "all pinball machines have the on/off switch there?" Yup. All of them is what I say. It's like a big secret that they are now privy to.

I love passing on the wisdom and joy! And there is nothing like the joy when they get to put initials up for a high score!

///Rich

2 months later
#2913 1 year ago
Quoted from chaskett:

I have the ADV X Decal for his lift ramp and am working on some updated decals to show off the transparency.

I would like one of them. Two I suppose for next time in 10 years. <G>

///Rich

1 month later
#3174 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I’m just glad someone one here told me to go check the EPROMs on it to make sure they were all seated. That’s what made me go check my boards vs a pic from here. The weird thing is the main board sound ROMs are still there. I’m hoping replacing all of them gets me sound. I guess even if the board is still bad I need the ROMs eventually anyways.

While you are at it, you should also replace the caps on that board. Cheap insurance as the originals are clearly marginal at this point. ///Rich

3 weeks later
#3279 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Extra decals if anyone is in need.
[quoted image]

I would like the Adv X if no one asked first.

///Rich

#3282 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

richwolfson you want chaskett Adv X sticker, it is awesome!

Yes. I just sent him payment for 2. Thanks for the reminder.

///Rich

#3288 11 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

last call on that bracket above - Anyone have it for the visor? If not, I'm going to fashion a home made one.

I am afraid I am going to need a pair too. Is there a better picture of the piece anywhere? Part number? Is the one on the left the same as the one on the right?

These?

I don't want to take mine apart before I know what I am going to need.

///Rich

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#3290 11 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

Hopefully these photos will help

OK. Are those factory? It seems that the left and right are the same but flipped. Is there a part number for these or do we simply have to make them if when we take apart the Visor mechanism and find they are broken?

///Rich

#3296 11 months ago
Quoted from lecter:

Hi Guys! 2 days ago I bought the Pinbot pinball machine and I hope it won’t turn out the worst decision in my life 
During watching and testing the machine I was so excited and nervous that I didn’t notice obvious defects of the machine. I noticed them at home 
Next time I’d like to take some photos of those defects and put them to this site, would it be OK for you? Can you judge if there’s a hope to repair them all (I’m an absolutely pinball beginner)?

Do not despair or give up before you get started. PinBot is a great machine. This forum is the place to get the information you will need to get it working nicely. And of course, post the pictures and your questions.

As for the "worst decision in your life"? My guess is that it will not turn out to be so.

///Rich

#3310 11 months ago

Today I installed an Inkochnito Bridge Board which is a must do upgrade for our aging Pin•Bots. I bought it at Big Daddy’s and didn’t attempt the install for a while because even after reading all the instructions and looking at all the pictures, I still didn’t get it.

One question I had was how to actually mount the board but after a quick email to Peter, it is easy. You simply use the screws that come out of the old rectifiers to mount the board with the holes in the new rectifiers. The board actually floats over the back box. And if you are worried about getting the wires wrong, the Bridge Board Instructions (http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/Inkochnito_Bridge_Board.pdf) are great and when you see the pictures of mine, this install should be easy. If I had to do it again it would take under a half hour from assembling the tools to the testing and cleanup.

So here are some pictures to help. Thanks again Peter for making such a great board and being so accessible.

///Rich

1-Assemble the tools. That’s a 1/4” nut driver and a Long Nosed Marker to mark the back board for mounting.
2, 3- The requisite before pictures and the close-up.
4,5-Parts removed and wires clipped off the rectifiers and the large capacitor.
6,7-Bridge Board ready for mounting. Also a bit of silicone heat transfer compound because I had it and it was on the rectifiers I took off. It is probably not necessary. You should center punch and drill pilot holes to make the mounting easy. And the Long Nosed Marker makes marking the holes easy as a pencil may not do it.
8-The screws. Note there are two washers and, again, I used the ones from the old rectifiers.
9-Mounting the board. Remember you mount the rectifiers and the board floats. It’s hard to get a good picture of that and I was confused before I started until I asked Peter who got back to me with a quick answer. It made sense and eliminated any fear I had going in.
10-I stripped the wires back about a 1/4” and tinned them. And then cleaned off any flux so nothing corrodes.
11-The board mounted in the backbox. As you can see there is plenty of room.
12-A closeup in case you want to be sure of your wiring.

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#3315 11 months ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

What is the purpose of this upgrade?

Here are three pictures from Peter's website showing what can go wrong. This seems like cheap insurance to me.

///Rich

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#3320 11 months ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

Adding fuses is cheap and easy and keeps the backbox looking a bit more original. ...

I gave up "original" when I went with LEDs. For me, it's reliability that is key. When my grandchildren fire it up and hear "Pin•Bot Circuits Activated", it absolutely has to work!

///Rich

#3326 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Looking for a little guidance on a capacitor replacement project. I ordered the System 11A capacitor kit from Big Daddy. [quoted image]

The caps kit is a must for our over 30 year old machines. That said, while you have your soldering iron hot and the desoldering braid all fluxed up, you should consider the high voltage side as well. There are good instructions in other threads and some say the kits from Great Plains is no longer available. Just today I ordered these parts from Marco.

MJE1503 Transistor (it will different pinouts then the one you have.
2N5401Transistor, PNP (Replaces MPSD52)
MJE15031 Transistor, PNP (it will also have different pinouts then the one you have)
2N5551Transistor, NPN (Replaces MPSD02)
1N4730A Zener Diode, 3.9 Volt (Replaces 1N5990) ZR1, ZR3 so you'll need 2.
1N4763A Zener Diode, 91 Volt (Replaces 1N4764) ZR2, ZR4. 2 again
1N4004 Rectifier, 400V, 1A D3, D4. Get 2!
RMOS2-39K Resistor, 39K, 2 Watt (Replaces 39K, 1⁄2 or 1 Watt) R1, R4 (Get 2)
680, 1⁄2 Watt Resistor. They did not have the 1.2K 1 Watt Resistor, R2, R5 (anyway 2 of those) but if anyone has a source for the 1.2 K replacements, let me know.
RCF1/2-330K Resistor, 330K, 1⁄2 Watt R3, R6 You'll need 2.

This will lower the voltage to the displays a bit (assuming you still have the original gas displays) and replace parts that are simply old.

Here's where they go with perfect pictures from Pinsider TROXEL.

///Rich
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#3329 11 months ago

Sorry but I did go back and gave you the credit you deserve.

That said, do you have a source for the 1.2K 1 Watt, R2, R5 Resistors? It's too bad we simply can't get a set easily any more from Great Plains, Marco or elsewhere.

///Rich

#3343 11 months ago
Quoted from troxel:

I didn't realize people were out. I will add a kit to my store and link it to that page above. Thanks for the idea!

I wish I knew that last week when I was looking for the parts. Where is the link?

It looks like it says 16 week delivery. And I see no way to purchase the 4 that I need for 2 Pin•Bot power supplies.

///Rich

#3349 10 months ago
Quoted from troxel:

You can buy 10 for $2.65.

Their site is not intuitive. You have to add the part numbers in the cart. Anyway, I ordered 10 which should last, for me, a lifetime.

And when you get your kits together they'll be here? https://troxelrepair.com/shop/

That should make it easier for some.

Thanks again, ///Rich

#3395 10 months ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Troxel, is this similar to the Inkochnito component mentioned a couple weeks ago?

No. The Inkochnito Bridge Board replaces the rectifiers, fuses the new ones and eliminates that large capacitor in the back box. The bridge board is IMO a must do for our machines particularly if the rectifiers have not been fused.

What we are talking about here are replacing parts on the power supply board that are now over 35 years old. And since the original parts are no longer available using upgrades and in one instance changing one part that will reduce the voltage to the displays extending their lives which is a good thing as it's not easy finding new glass displays these days.

///Rich

#3416 10 months ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

...I am no slouch when it comes to working with wiring diagrams and schematics and the instructions on the site just confuse me.

I absolutely hear you. I had the board for months before I was comfortable doing the install. I didn't realize that the board actually floats and is held to the backbox with screws through holes through the rectifiers. The screws that hold in the old rectifiers worked perfectly and the board actually floats above the backboard.

Look at post #3310. I think there is everything you need there. That said, starting is the hardest part of this job. Just make sure when you clip the wires from the large cap and the 2 rectifiers, you clip them close to the cap and rectifiers and not on the connector side.

It was MUCH easier than I expected and for added safety if you want to post a picture before you turn it on, Peter will give you his personal "it looks OK" and as Grumpy says, we're all here to help.

Go for it. You will not be sorry. Then after that, the fuse board for your special solenoids should be next. <G>

///Rich

#3419 10 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The lavender wire that should be blue is in the middle pin, it needs to be in the bottom pin.

I do think that is it.

///Rich

#3421 10 months ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Yup, that was it.

So now let CoitusMysterioso know how easy this is and nothing to be afraid of.

///Rich

1 week later
#3452 10 months ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

I must suck at pinball cause I have never turned it over

Add another to the list of "suckers". I have never turned mine over either, (5 balls and factory except a 30 second drop target timer). It must be that I am old. But I wasn't old when I first got it.

///Rich

#3453 10 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

...while you have your soldering iron hot and the desoldering braid all fluxed up, you should consider the high voltage side as well. ...Just today I ordered these parts from Marco for my main power supply and the backup I have ...
///Rich

I took the board out today in preparation of doing the upgrade and to my surprise, it seems it is an upgraded board and my MJE1503 and MJE15031 transistors are good to go where the others are already with no need to fuss with crossing the pins on this board and that this one time, I am lucky. Or even better, there is no need to change the updated transistors as they are working perfectly and already the newest? Do transistors wear out? I would think not but you guys are the experts.

I am assuming the extra pin holes are if someone actually had the older transistors?

Note that Troxel has the parts kit if you are interested. https://troxelrepair.com/product/williiams-system-3-11c-high-voltage-pinball-repair-kit/

///Rich
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#3459 10 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

I took the power supply out today in preparation of doing the upgrade and to my surprise, it seems it is an upgraded board and my MJE1503 and MJE15031 transistors are good to go where the others are already with no need to fuss with crossing the pins on this board and that this one time, I am lucky. Or even better, there is no need to change the updated transistors as they are working perfectly and already the newest? Do transistors wear out? I would think not but you guys are the experts.
///Rich

I am still on the fence about whether I should replace anything other than the ZR2 and ZR4 Diodes with the 1N4763A to add a little life to the displays. Do any of those other parts actually wear out? I have the parts but if it's not necessary, what's the point?

So I took the opportunity to add the Special Solenoid Fuse Board. 20 minutes for a bit of added protection.

///Rich

P1000209 (resized).jpgP1000227 (resized).JPG
#3461 10 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

How many hours per day do you have the game on?

No more than an hour a day. Most days a lot less and many days it's not turned on at all. Occasionally when the grandkids are here, it's on for a couple of hours.

I am interested mostly in reliability. Do those diodes get less reliable over time?

///Rich

#3464 10 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then leave them alone.

So to be clear and for me and everyone else. The Power Supply board capacitors degrade over time and should be replaced. The transistors, diodes, rectifiers and resistors for the high voltage outputs don't degrade and unless there is a problem, there is no need to replace them. AND, unless your machine is on for hours each day, there is nothing to be gained from replacing the ZR2 and ZR4 Diodes with the 1N4763A to add a little life to the displays.

Bottom line, for the high side of the power supply, don't fix it if it ain't broke.

///Rich

PS-Not even lifting the Q1 and Q3, cleaning the pad and redoing the heat transfer compound?
PSS-Please just tell me to let it go and get to rebuilding the drop targets and cleaning and waxing the playfield. <G>

#3466 10 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes ...This is what I believe ...also if you have a tired display in your machine and you drop the voltage it may not light up on the lower voltage.

I hear ya. Thanks.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

...also I don't care for LED displays and all my machines are still running plasma displays on standard voltages.

I don't care for LED displays either. But I do like the LEDs on the playfield. Luckily a year and a half ago I bought 3 new 7 digit NOS display glasses on eBay. 2 numeric and one alphanumeric for $32.65 each. I soldered the one in that I needed and have two left for when the time comes. Hopefully they will have not gassed out when I need them.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Waxing the PF and using new balls is the single most important thing you can do for your machine.

First rebuilding the drop targets. Then the full clean and wax. Thanks for allowing me to take advantage of your experience.

///Rich

#3470 10 months ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Just curious what type of wax do you use?

Are you asking me or Grumpy? His opinion has weight. Mine doesn't but since you asked, I have Blitz. That said I use P21S on my car and it's amazing but I like the Blitz on the playfield.

///Rich

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1 week later
#3505 9 months ago
Quoted from Muskie82:

Looking for this bracket. Anyone have a line on one?

Here? https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=148

But while you're at it, you should probably get this...

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_27&product_id=169

...just in case.

///Rich

#3518 9 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

Yes. I was thinking it was Q73. My next option is to replace it and go from there. Thx for input. Just trying to get everything working. Seems like when I fix one issue another pops up. So frustrating. But it’s coming along thanks to all my fellow pinsiders

Also, sounds like it's time for that Special Solenoid Saver board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7

20 minute install and great for peace of mind!

///Rich

#3524 9 months ago

Here's the install in my Pinbot. I also went for the Inkochnito Bridge Board to get rid of the old large cap and add the rectifier fuses.

///Rich

P1000227 (resized).jpgP1000208 (resized).jpgP1000209 (resized).jpg
#3530 9 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

Hey guys. Got the solonoid saver kit. What plug does it go into on Pinbot? Instructions show 2J12 but there is not a 2J12.

1J19

///Rich

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5 months later
#3830 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It is very small but it's marked.

While we're on this topic. It's imperative that you check your parts before you install them. I did a cap and high voltage refresh on my power supply. I put the new board in and it blew F1 immediately. I didn't have time to troubleshoot it till today when I realized that the parts sent to me were 39 ohms rather than 39,000. In this case the code should have been orange-white-orange-gold rather than the orange-white-black-gold that were in the package.

Yes, parts do come bad out of the box but more often they are simply the wrong parts. Hopefully Marco didn't send out a lot of these.

///Rich

PS-Grumpy, before I fire this up again, do you see a problem with any parts downstream or just replace the resistors and see what happens?

PSS-I got in touch with Marco and they immediately sent the right ones.
IMG_1650 (resized).jpg

#3833 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You put a lot of current thru ZR-1 and ZR-3 until the fuse popped. Like 1000 times what it should have been. On the other hand, it was only for a few miliseconds. Your call.

And it was a slo-blow fuse. I think I have an extra pair of the diodes from the board that I didn't update the high side on.

Nothing is easy. And as always, thanks.

///Rich

#3843 3 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

...PSS-I got in touch with Marco and they immediately sent the right ones.
[quoted image]

I spoke too quickly. The parts arrived today and the value is correct but it looks like the new ones are not 2 watts. These parts are cheap compared to the time putting them in so, in your infinite wisdom, get the 2 watt ones or install these?

Thanks in advance as always.

///Rich

IMG_1658 (resized).jpg
#3845 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you think you got a 1/2 watt resistor?

That is what it looks like to me. But there is really no way to tell other than it's about 25% of the mass of the 2 watt one.

I really would not like it to fail and burn the back box to the ground.

///Rich

1 week later
#3864 3 months ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

...All my displays are not working but game plays....

None of your displays are working? If so, check F1 on the power supply before you do anything else? F1 is the high voltage fuse that supplies power to the displays.

If some of your displays are working, that is going to be a different problem.

///Rich

2 months later
#3981 39 days ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Cliffys in my kick outs, chest bank, and vortex exit rollover...it’s a beautiful thing.[quoted image]

I don't see Pin•Bot listed on the Cliffy site. Where did you get your protectors?

///Rich

1 week later
#3994 28 days ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Having a problem with the plate that drops to allow for multiball capture (white arrow). Over time it has gotten to the point that it's not dropping completely, which sometimes allows a ball to be trapped behind it since it isn't flush with the playfield.
Looking under the playfield, the plate doesn't appear to drop all the way down to the screws below, particularly on the right side (red arrow)--I'm assuming these screws are there to stop the plate at the proper height. I'm wondering if the fix is to use some lubricant like PB Blaster along the guide on each side of the plate (blue arrow).
Your suggestions are really appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't use any lubricant. It should be free and smooth and if you put any lubricant in there, once it is worn away, you'll be back at square one. And not only will the ball get stuck behind it but if the target is not all the way down, the ball will launch when it hits it and get stuck in the visor.

As luck would have it I took mine apart this afternoon as mine was going up and down crooked. It's been like that for a while and I bought a bunch of parts but over Christmas the grandkids got frustrated that the ball got stuck and having frustrated grand kids is something I avoid at all costs.

Turns out on mine the Target Guide was broken. But if yours is not, you should take it apart and clean it all so it goes up and down smoothy. You'll see how it works when you get it out in that the motor has a bushing that goes into the carrier and will, if everything is free, bring the targets down to the stops.

Fortunately I had the guide and carrier but since it's apart now, I ordered two new #5647-10529-00 switches from Marco just because. And I'll clean up the contacts and put new foam pads behind the targets. And at some point decide if I should change the motor too as I have a new one in the parts box.

Keep us posted.

///Rich

2 weeks later
#4007 13 days ago
Quoted from Muskie82:

Starting to gather parts for my restore. Does anyone know if these are the correct flipper assemblies? They currently work but I'm assuming someone changed then at some point.[quoted image]

Looks like the Plunger and Crank were changed at least on the left at one point before. But clearly new switches are in order. At minimum it needs to be cleaned up with new sleeves and coil stops.

///Rich

#4008 12 days ago

I spent the last few days rebuilding my Target Bank. I have known for a long time that the target guide frame was broken causing the bank to lower and rise unevenly. I assembled the parts I thought I would need. The guide frame, target carrier, new motor, two micro switches, target pads and the retainer and guides. The guide frame is impossible to source either original or from the original mold so I got one 3D printed from Shapeways.

It all came apart nicely and cleaned up easily. I changed the motor just because I had a new one and both microswitches even though one was perfect and the other was "modified". Clearly this was taken apart from someone before me as the angle retainer brackets had holes drilled into them with screws into the playfield. Frankly I doing understand why these are angle brackets are there at all in that they don't move and neither side of mine even touched the bottom of the playfield.

Putting it back together the first thing I noticed was that although the carrier worked smoothly, impressive fit into the frame, the top of the targets was not centered in the playfield slot. There was no way to adjust it to the center as the guide frame bottomed out in the slot. I did not measure the new guide against the old on to see if the lip was thicker and if I can ever find a NOS guide I'll swap it out and see. And since the balls are not getting stuck in the slot, it seems more cosmetic now.

The next thing I noticed was that the adjusting screws to be sure the carried doesn't drop below the playfield did not hit the carrier on one side. Strange as I would have thought it was square. The fix for this is documented in another thread but I took that bracket and moved it to the bottom of the motor bracket with two small washers and that worked nicely and made it hit the carrier solidly after I adjusted the cam for clearance.

I spent a bunch of time getting it all right except the carrier is still not centered in the slot but it all works smooth and nice. I still am not sure I have the right retainer brackets as I can't figure out why they are heavy L brackets, but that is what shows in a lot of images on the board and it works.

Thanks everyone for giving me the courage to do these things. Next rebuild for me will be the Pops and then the Slingshots. But for now I think I'll go collect the Solar Value.

///Rich

#4017 10 days ago
Quoted from cshelden:

richwolfson
Is this what you are needing? Pinball Inc has them, ...

Nope. Hopefully they'll be back in stock soon.

///Rich

Image (resized).png
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