Quoted from henrydwh:

That is a badass idea using red and blue LEDs in the visor! I love it!!!

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I don't believe the game is actually supplying 28v to those 1251 bulbs, my understanding is that Williams used a higher voltage bulb to reduce the brightness. When I got my machine, it had 89 incandescent's in it and they worked fine. most operators had no idea those bulbs were 1251's, they look exactly the same. I'm using Comet Red & Blue 89 8-SMD LED flashers in all those spots and they work just fine too, no modifications, nothing is burning, and they look badass alternating red-blue when the visor opens!!

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I'm not having that problem with mine...

Quoted from tilted81:

. Ok..... So this pinbot is quite the project! I'm missing the stainless guide that goes on the right side of the lift ramp. Didn't know if anyone might have one? If someone had the spare time a picture of one that's taken off would be ok too... I might be able to make one.... It looks like just 2 screws attached it to playfield

Quoted from Jason1413:

Just purchased my Pinbot on Monday. Got it home and it's DOA. Didn't have much time to look at it, but it looks like it was "shopped" in the last few years. If I had to guess, I don't think I'm getting power to the boards at all. Hopefully it's just the replacement plug has become disconnected. Had a similar issue on another machine. Machine is clean with a really nice playfield. Missing the topper but everything else looks good.

Quoted from goingincirclez:

After a few months of moving hell, I'm finally returning to a project PinBot I picked up just before, uh, the hell of moving. There were several prior hacks and poor repairs, and I've untangled a few... but there's a few more that would be easier if I knew exactly how the game should behave.
Anyway to get to the point, can someone explain how the "left visor" and "right visor" bulbs are supposed to work? As in when they are on, and when they are off, and such?
It looks like there are three sockets for each side but I don't yet know if they are controlled independently or what. And as it happens none of them were populated - just one clue among several that a PO had major issues with the flasher circuits. Further complicating my troubleshooting, most of the resistor boards need work as the resistors fell off. I also suspect an issue in the MPU special solenoids section: the transistor (Q71) for that part is *completely* blown out (and the triggering 7402 at U45 might be bad also since its associated pops and sling don't work correctly either).
But the right visor lock, when I put a bulb in, is on all of the time. Is that correct? The term "GI" confuses me here since I'm used to GI staying on all the time... but then why is it in the solenoid section, and why is the left on "special"? And if that right visor lock socket wants to be on, which other sockets should be on with it?

Quoted from Plumonium:

To reiterate what been said a hundred times before: do not use #89 in there, they will melt your scoop plastic and burn in no time. They need to be #1251 (28v).

Quoted from Milltown:

Sorry .. yes,1251 ... the 89s will burn I Stanly.. my bad..

Quoted from Leeb18509:

Just finished adding a https://www.playfield-protectors.com/ to my Pinbot. Was easy to do and makes the PF look great. These things are great for older playfields with raised/cupping inserts and wear that affects ball travel.

Quoted from goingincirclez:

I have some concepts for replacement speaker panels. These are mods, made of stainless steel to match the other game trim, to cover the plain black fabric panel of with a higher-end look more akin to the rest of System 11.
Nothing available yet, since I'm seeking opinion on the concepts themselves first. The challenge for PinBot was to integrate it into the art, as opposed to something redundant. Check them out in the thread linked below. Your feedback would be appreciated...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-stainless-steel-speaker-panel-concepts-interest#post-3583022

Quoted from goingincirclez:

Yes that price was way higher than I expected last time, then shipping was another ~$25 per (I included shipping in that $140). Back then I used a distant and pricey (didn't realize *that* pricey) but known and trusted shop to do the work. This time I will shop around closer to home... And hopefully get a better quote!

Quoted from goingincirclez:

Got my speaker panel cut and installed; have to say it looks better than expected! Love when that happens.

Quoted from jibmums:

Check out this weirdness, apparently "Top Pin" was a Bell Games conversion kit to turn your Bally into a fugazi-Pinbot. This one's on Ebay right now. Cool but weird!
ebay.com link » Pinball Pinbot Top Pin Rare Bell Games

Quoted from hailrazer:

Just an FYI for those of you with a Pinbot.
I changed all the insert lamps to Comet non-ghosting led's.
Then I installed a chest decal. Put it on using the "wet" method. It went on nice and looked great. Left it on for about a week.
Next I bought and installed a Playfield Protector. Went on smooth and looked and played great.
Left Pinbot running all night.
Woke up the next day and the decal was ruined. All wrinkled and "melted" looking.
After doing a lot of detective work this is what I found out happened. Apparently the transformer is almost directly under the "chest" area. And it puts off a surprising amount of heat. Well that heat rises and gets stuck in those 25 chest inserts. Apparently that is why a lot of wear is in the chest area. All that heat plus the heat of the incandescent bulbs would soften the paint and when the ball rolled over it, the paint would wear off.
So since I have led's installed now there is less heat. And the chest decal by itself was fine. But when I added the Playfield Protector it then acted to "trap" the heat from the transformer.
The solution? I ordered a new decal and replaced the ruined one. Then I added a PC fan underneath blowing across the chest area. Re-installed the Playfield Protector and left Pinbot on all night.
No problems and all is fine now.
Just an FYI for others.

Quoted from hailrazer:

I cleaned the playfield with Naptha first before putting on the decal. Then I waxed the playfield and put on the Playfield Protector.

Quoted from lyonsden:

Your best bet for those with cheap/free shipping are EBay and AliExpress. You can easily find both 12V and 24V on those sites. However, do not use 12V in 24V circuits -- they will melt (personal experience.)

Quoted from Toine79:

First test after restoring for weeks and hardtop installation.
Sound works, game boots without errors, flashers are permanent on.
Placed led flashers and disconnected all those heat transistors on every board under the playfield.
One or 2 insert light does not work.
Happy with this result.
Made it fire proof with does 2 extra fuses holder, replaced an external battery holder.
After those flashers it is time to replace plastics. [quoted image]