Pinbot
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Quoted from Sinistarrett:When Freeplay40 makes the new lift ramps those stickers could be a hot commodity!
I'm in the process of getting a Pinbot and it has a broken lift on the left ramp.... where can I sign up for these new ones? Thank you.
New to the club as I just got a Pinbot. Anyone have a good fix to the lifting pin setup that lifts the ramp, or know of anyone that makes or sells them? Mine had a broken pin so the arm works but no pin attached to raise/lower the clear ramp.....
Quoted from GRUMPY:They are 1251 bulbs. These are 28 volt bulbs.
Thank you. I thought so but didn't want to waste a pair 89's to find out.
Anyone have issues with their clear ramp lifting mechanism not staying all the way up? I thought it was my coil being weak so I replaced it, but it still goes up, then goes partially back a bit....enough so the ball cannot go underneath cleanly...
The release coil let's it go back down when it's supposed to. 
Quoted from someotherguy:I would suspect wear in the fiber link attached to the plunger.
If that looks OK then see where the stud that bolts to the arm - the exposed area right next to the ramp - this is slotted. There's a small amount of adjustment you can make to move the stud higher in the arm so the lifted position of the ramp will be higher. Something you could try, anyway.
Surprised yours is sitting that low, though. I just double-checked mine and I've got like 1/4" clearance above the ball when the ramp is up. Are you you 100% sure the ramp flap is original and not kinked/bent downwards?
Richard
I guess my first question is, when the mechanism raises the slide up, does the pin go all the way to the end of the slide? Mine does not.....
I bought a new arm and pin... I'll rebuild that portion and see if it helps.... there just seems to be too much play after the arm goes up, and spring forces the arm back as far as it will go before the return coil takes charge to drop it.
I did try adjusting the pin on the arm slider but that just made things worse..... back to the drawing board.
Quoted from Strummy:I have no sticker at all. Would you be willing to sell a couple when you get it done?
Count me in for one too if you are selling them. Mine came without the sticker as well. Thanks.
Quoted from metalkatt:I guess my first question is, when the mechanism raises the slide up, does the pin go all the way to the end of the slide? Mine does not.....
I bought a new arm and pin... I'll rebuild that portion and see if it helps.... there just seems to be too much play after the arm goes up, and spring forces the arm back as far as it will go before the return coil takes charge to drop it.
I did try adjusting the pin on the arm slider but that just made things worse..... back to the drawing board.
Second question.....when the coil lifts the ramp , does it stay energized and hold the ramp up until the release coil activates to lower the ramp? Or is raised ramp lock in place and lifting coil, not active after it pulls the ramp up?
I'm just trying to understand the scenario with the coils and switches to help me troubleshoot why my lifting arm drops back from spring tention once the ramp had been lifted......
Quoted from metalkatt:Second question.....when the coil lifts the ramp , does it stay energized and hold the ramp up until the release coil activates to lower the ramp? Or is raised ramp lock in place and lifting coil, not active after it pulls the ramp up?
I'm just trying to understand the scenario with the coils and switches to help me troubleshoot why my lifting arm drops back from spring tention once the ramp had been lifted......
So, after taking the lift section apart and examining things better, I'm still in the same dilemma when I started. I've included pics to help my description of the problem. There seems to be a little play, which is causing the arm to go back a bit, thus causing the ramp to go down too much. I'm not sure if my arm is just worn asst the pointed part, where it catches? Both pics shoe the gap, play, in the lower side of the arm.
Quoted from Leeb18509:Can you loosen that screw and raise up the "stopper"?
I tried that, not enough play. I was thinking of maybe getting longer screws along with adding a washer under each screw might raise the stopper enough so that it bites the arm better......? I'm willing to try anything at this point as it shouldn't be this difficult....
Something is not right with my left ramp setup.... the post to the left of it, the rubber seems to stick out past the ramp so when the ball comes down it hits the rubber ring and bounces to the right of the playfield..... can't figure out what is out of place?
Quoted from dontfeed:Mine's like that, however the left part of the ramp is not as far left as yours (1/16" - 1/8" more to the right). Is the left side of your ramp bent towards the left? Is the lifting arm bent?
nothing seems to be bent, and when i stripped it down to see if maybe the ramp wasn't mounted properly on that left side because the person I got it from had been changing out bulbs, but it is screwed down into the hole......i love this machine but it has some weird things wrong with it......ugh.
Quoted from dontfeed:Well, I guess you could put a skinny post there if you can't make adjustments.
That's what I was thinking of doing, as it's really the only way to resolve.
I've been dealing with dimmer scoreboards since I bought my pinbot, and didn't notice it until I played one at a arcade. I even replaced the old ones with LED score boards, but still somewhat dim. I'm getting 97 volts+ at the boards. So, I recapped the power board.... still no resolve. Wonder if I'm in need of those resistors, too?.....
Quoted from someotherguy:If you're running LED score displays you have no need for the high voltage section of the power supply.
Richard
I forgot about that..... yes, I installed brand new score boards, but even at the highest setting they are not as brought as they should be..... gotta be something simple.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Has your board been modified with replacement zener diodes to drop the voltage? If your displays are in good shape that is done to increase the life of the displays. I did that on mine and they are still bright enough.
No modifications, complete Xpin set of LED score boards that come with the new driver board...... still dim though, like the originals were. Still readable, just not super bright like they should be.
Quoted from Aniraf:I’ll double up on this request. If anyone knows, I am interested.
I know Scott is looking to make some, but needs a wiring diagram for it.
Quoted from Freeplay40:Pinbot is next. I've already reproduced the complete lift ramp, and working on the molds for the main ramp and the visor. May do the helmet as well.
Cool. The ramp i got from you was perfect. Count me in on the other goodies!! And thank you for your contributions!!
Quoted from Pintor:Thank you! It looks like it’s a little more complicated than adding a few fuses. I plan on owning my Pinbot for my lifetime so it seems like a good investment.
No, I've done 3 of them... piece of cake to install.
Quoted from Freeplay40:Ramp update... I'm having a local sheet metal company make me a larger stainless steel vat so that I can dye the larger ramps. I've been wanting to try a multi-color ramp for some time so while I'm waiting for the new vat I decided to try it with Pinbot just for fun. Pinbot has a blue side and a red side theme to the playfield so I took a new ramp and dyed the left side blue and the right side red. I will likely offer this theme to the owner of the machine I have on loan (that I've had waaayyy too long!) if he wants it. Not sure if there would be any demand for it.
The blue on the left side demonstrates the color I will be using for the blue ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I would buy that multi color ramp...I dig it!!
Quoted from RichWolfson:The caps kit is a must for our over 30 year old machines. That said, while you have your soldering iron hot and the desoldering braid all fluxed up, you should consider the high voltage side as well. There are good instructions in other threads and some say the kits from Great Plains is no longer available. Just today I ordered these parts from Marco.
MJE1503 Transistor (it will different pinouts then the one you have.
2N5401Transistor, PNP (Replaces MPSD52)
MJE15031 Transistor, PNP (it will also have different pinouts then the one you have)
2N5551Transistor, NPN (Replaces MPSD02)
1N4730A Zener Diode, 3.9 Volt (Replaces 1N5990) ZR1, ZR3 so you'll need 2.
1N4763A Zener Diode, 91 Volt (Replaces 1N4764) ZR2, ZR4. 2 again
1N4004 Rectifier, 400V, 1A D3, D4. Get 2!
RMOS2-39K Resistor, 39K, 2 Watt (Replaces 39K, 1⁄2 or 1 Watt) R1, R4 (Get 2)
680, 1⁄2 Watt Resistor. They did not have the 1.2K 1 Watt Resistor, R2, R5 (anyway 2 of those) but if anyone has a source for the 1.2 K replacements, let me know.
RCF1/2-330K Resistor, 330K, 1⁄2 Watt R3, R6 You'll need 2.
This will lower the voltage to the displays a bit (assuming you still have the original gas displays) and replace parts that are simply old.
Here's where they go with perfect pictures from Pinsider TROXEL.
///Rich
[quoted image]
I'm wondering if this is the problem with my displays being dim? I recapped my power supply thinking it would solve but they are still faint... I'll have to try this. Thank you for this post!!
Quoted from doublerunner:Hi. I came into a pinbot by accident.. I was looking to buy a NO Fear and a Cyclone. Upon arriving at the sellers house, he had 5 pinball machines and he could not get the Cyclone to work properly. The pinbot caught my eye and we made a deal. That was 2 months ago and I absolutely love this machine. We play this all the time and very rarely use the No Fear game
I do have a question and I apologize if this has been covered before. At startup it displays that I need to adjust the left and right outlanes, #12 and 15. What happens is, when the extra ball is lit up in these outlanes, it does not register if the ball goes out there. I have had the cabinet open and looked at the areas and everything appears complete and normal, but I can not get them to work properly
Any suggestions?
The outlane rollovers need adjustment. They are not registering....making contact to be read.
Quoted from troxel:Had some time today in made the kits.
Thank you. I just ordered one.... Hoping it will fix my dim displays and make them brighter again.
Quoted from Muskie82:Looking for this bracket. Anyone have a line on one?
[quoted image]
Shapeways has one as well...little pricey but it's the same
Quoted from Blackbeard:My visor does the same, which I know isn't correct. It should open once after grid is completed. I know it's fix is something to do with the two switches under the mech. Just haven't had time to tinker.
SIDE NOTE: most of these system 11s have horrid ball hop from inlane to flipper. Anyone try out Cliffy's new inlane guides designed to help this issue??
Yes, the Cliffys are a wonderful addition. Well with the price of admission. I have them in two of my machines, Pinbot and Playboy 35th, and they make the ball roll through the flipper returns lanes seemlessly.
I put up a post looking for help to trouble shoot my flashers issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-flasher-problems
Quoted from GRUMPY:Sounds like the AC relay isn't working very good. Dirty contacts. Could also be cracked pins on the relay.
The AC relay on the MPU?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Nope under the play field.
Got it. I’ll check it out. Fingers crossed. Thank you
Quoted from GRUMPY:Something like this will cause problems.[quoted image]
So, upon further investigation, none of my C side functions are working. The AC units are clicking fine, but no functions.
???
Quoted from GRUMPY:I need a pic of both sides.
They all look good to me.
There is that brown section on the one relay... not sure if it is a hot spot?
0859DC46-33F8-4CBF-9548-54233DEE0A32 (resized).jpeg70F8CDFD-BDFD-4CCD-BE77-CB08E82993FF (resized).jpeg1942ED56-CF19-48A2-ADC3-25E251B4ADFC (resized).jpeg1CA6AA3B-8849-451D-8DF4-DEA124E6AA49 (resized).jpegF570E69C-3DED-423A-B506-52ED8D9C4CF9 (resized).jpegE22D9C4A-00AF-4093-BF8B-817A742B2A20 (resized).jpegQuoted from GRUMPY:The first relay is for the visor motor.
The second relay is for the GI lamps.
The last relay is the A/C relay. The solder connections look fine.
If you put the game in coil test and stop on solenoid #14. Do you hear/feel this relay clicking?
Yes, I feel the relay clicking fine. All of my C sides are not working, including the knocker. Do you think it maybe something at the MPU, that controls the ac relay?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Nope, it will the relay it's self. If you can get the cover off to look the contacts, is there any dirt or dead bugs in there?
I’m going to replace it with a new one on hand and see if that resolves the issue. Fingers crossed. I’ll let you know how I make out. Thank you for the help!!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Just the relay or the whole board?
Just the relay
Quoted from metalkatt:Just the relay
The ac relay ended up being the culprit. After finally getting the old one off the board, soldering a new one in place... fired it up and I have all my C side functions working properly. The old relay looked good inside but something wasn’t doing its job.... glad I got it running. Thank you for the help!!
Quoted from Vandy89:Anyone know where you can purchase these target faces under the visor? I don’t need the complete switch, just the faces.
Thanks[quoted image]
I believe Pinball Resource might be a good option for those faces
Quoted from kciaccio:My Pin-Bot started to do reboots during gameplay and seems to be doing more often lately. I have year old rotten dog MPU and 2 year old x-pin power supply.
What do you think is causing the reboots?
Check your voltages first.
Quoted from kciaccio:My Pin-Bot started to do reboots during gameplay and seems to be doing more often lately. I have year old rotten dog MPU and 2 year old x-pin power supply.
What do you think is causing the reboots?
Check your voltages first.
Quoted from kciaccio:Yep. It ended up being the electrical plug into the my wall power strip was only 80% plugged in and causing the problem.
Awesome. I always do simple stupid stuff first before digging in too much…. End up making it worse!! Lol. Happy holidays
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:My PinBot has numerous switch issues upon startup. 10-16 all send up warnings, leading me
To believe the switch matrix second column is busted. Where would I start looking to fix it? Thanks in advance.
Switch matrix issue. Check all switches in the row and column that the issues are in…. One of them is causing the problem. Good luck
Quoted from metalkatt:Switch matrix issue. Check all switches in the row and column that the issues are in…. One of them is causing the problem. Good luck
B9DD2419-4147-408F-A1B8-5BBD3B41223B (resized).jpegQuoted from MydknyteStyrm:My PinBot has numerous switch issues upon startup. 10-16 all send up warnings, leading me
To believe the switch matrix second column is busted. Where would I start looking to fix it? Thanks in advance.
One the switches on the “Row” side should be acting up too…. You have to check ALL switches in that row as well.
Quoted from jjga:I'm a beginner at trying to fix my own games, so I hope this is not something that should be super obvious. My machine was flagging switch 48 (left pop) on boot and this pop bumper was not firing.
1) I visually inspected it and it seemed open at rest and close when the ring was depressed
2) I put the machine in solenoid test mode and the left pop did not fire.
3) I powered the machine back off and inspected again. Didn't see anything new
4) I put the machine back in solenoid test mode and now 04/17 (bottom jet), 04/18 (left visor), 04/19 (left jet), 04/20 (left kicker), 04/21 (right kicker), 04/22 (top jet) are not firing
In the solenoid table these are all listed as CPU Board 1P19- 7 to 9. Does this mean I should be looking at a possible problem on the CPU Board connector labeled IJ19 Special Solenoids on the schematics? This connector and area seems OK. Am I missing something else?
Thanks,
Jason
Do you have a manual by chance?
Here’s one of you don’t.
https://images.pinside.com/6/da/dc/6dadcc49f5f52e1c12b31d769275b923623acd71.pdf
Quoted from jjga:I do have the manual, but I'm not sure I understand the relationship between the switch matrix and the ability of the solenoids to fire in test mode.
Look at the switch matrix in the manual and highlight the solenoids you are having issues with. See if they are on the same row and/or column…if they are, it could be that’s your problem…one of those other solenoids in that row/column are the real culprit.
It could be the plug that associated with those coils could be trouble too.
Hello all. Looking for some help/advice regarding some issues my Pinbot has developed…
I originally pulled the MPU board to help out another owner to diagnose their issues with their game…. That never happened as they got it resolved before I got to help them out. Since I had the board out, I installed the NVRAM. So, I reinstalled my board back into my game, and that’s when the gremlins arrived….
First, upping game start, the pinball would not be shot into the shooter lane…. So I replaced the transistor associated with that and it worked again.
So after playing 6/7 games, it started acting weird - the visor no longer went up or down, flashers stopped working and both balls are being launched into the shooter Lane….ugh.
I changed out the transistors for both the relay switcher (to resolve flashers) and the visor motor but still no change. Everything else seems to work fine except for these coil issues.
My power supply is a Xpin, everything else is original.
Is my board bad?
Pinbot issue.
MPU is good. Xpin power supply.
Issues are: no flashers and no visor motor movement. Ohms check at motor is 47, so motor good. Changed out snubber with aftermarket…still no change. I’ve hit a wall…any help appreciated. I know C side is the flashers but I’m not getting any C side functions. The visor motor is a special solenoid, ran off snubber. Snubber isn’t switching over so I’m stuck…
I’ve hit a wall……help?!?
Quoted from GRUMPY:The visor is not a special solenoid. It is a controlled solenoid. If all of this happened at the same time then I would check all of the 24 volt fuses and test there outputs from the power supply.
[quoted image]
So, it’s been a hot minute since my last post, but here’s the update…
Changed out the snubber with a newer unit, realized I had to put a jumper between the two red wires…got my A/C switches working fine again.
Don’t have my special solenoids though, not even in test. Checked the HV fuse at F1…blown (they were cheap fuses - I got what I paid for) so I replaced with a .5 amp SB(calls for .25, but I didn’t have any of those on hand at the moment)…. All my solenoids are good again - Pinbot back in action…all pops and slings firing for 3 days
…. Until today. Special solenoids out again. I have to go check the fuses but I’m at a loss as to why F1 HV fuse would have any effect on special solenoids?!? I thought it was just for displays (which I have Xpin led displays anyways)…
Now I’m confused…..
Quoted from metalkatt:So, it’s been a hot minute since my last post, but here’s the update…
Changed out the snubber with a newer unit, realized I had to put a jumper between the two red wires…got my A/C switches working fine again.
Don’t have my special solenoids though, not even in test. Checked the HV fuse at F1…blown (they were cheap fuses - I got what I paid for) so I replaced with a .5 amp SB(calls for .25, but I didn’t have any of those on hand at the moment)…. All my solenoids are good again - Pinbot back in action…all pops and slings firing for 3 days
…. Until today. Special solenoids out again. I have to go check the fuses but I’m at a loss as to why F1 HV fuse would have any effect on special solenoids?!? I thought it was just for displays (which I have Xpin led displays anyways)…
Now I’m confused…..
And I forgot to mention that when I went to go check voltage at the power board, I found that two of the metal wings on the fuse clips at F4 had been bent/compromised so that’s why I wasn’t getting good power to begin with…I swapped out with another power board from my Data East Playboy (same Xpin power board in both games), changed fuses to appropriate values. Then, did the snubber replacement and found the special solenoid issues I’m having now…
Quoted from GRUMPY:OK, so just to be accurate for everyone reading this Pinbot does not have any snubber relays. It does have 1 A/C relay, 2 GI relays and lastly a motor relay for the visor. All of these relays work on 24 volts as does the solenoids. F-1 fuse is only for the high voltage portion of the power supply which you don't need. F-2 and F-4 are for the 24 volt systems. You say that you have a special solenoid issue, which one?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Problem solved. The aftermarket power board uses different value fuses vs the original so it was just a matter of installing proper values. Good to know it isn’t called a snubber relay. I always thought that was it’s part name. Thanks for reaching out, Grumpy.
Have some Pinbot parts available, all unused. Spiral ramp(aftermarket), target labels, visor label, new pop caps, 555 pop stems if you wanted to convert to the pop light rings, light baffles. I think the baffles are used, can’t remember how I acquired those. Figured I’d give any pinbot owners a shot at them before I listed them in the wild.
IMG_1101 (resized).jpegIMG_1102 (resized).jpegIMG_1103 (resized).jpeg
Update: all the parts in this picture are still available. Circled in the red, is the complete setup to install Ring LED lights in your pop bumpers. The 555 conversion light stems, new pop caps, and the pop rings. Very cool and light up that whole area.
Along with the new visor decal and drop target decals, lift ramp arm and visor bracket.
IMG_1351 (resized).jpegQuoted from TronGuy:I didnt pay attention to earlier posts. Are these make offer individually, as a lot only?
thanks,
I have the pop bumper with the upgrades and the lift arm left. Everything else I’d sold. It was just people reaching out to me for certain items…
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Phoenix, AZ