I am in the same boat. I guess I'm gonna have to pony up the cash though. Lol.

I'll do one better. I have a break right in the center of the clear plastic that covers the spiral ramp. I cannot find that one anywhere. It's not in the repro set

Yeah... I have no idea how to do that. Is there a thread showing how somewhere on here?

Alright I broke down and ordered a plastic set and a new spiral ramp from PPS. Does anyone have the clear plastic spiral ramp cover or the ability to make and sell me one? It is the only piece I still need.

Every once in awhile I end up with a bad LED. It will cause a fuse to blow which will send out a section of the GI. Not really like what you have described though.

I haven't taken mine apart yet. I just got my plastics and vortex the other day and have it in que for the summer. That ramp switch should unhook under the playfield though and pull through.

I think they look good both ways. The Blue/Red theme really accents the robot, which most would argue is the focal point of the game anyways. The way that the one above is done is also beautiful and really makes the game pop. It really is totally the opinion of the owner. IMO they both look better than dirty yellow so marked improvement. But once again it is really all totally the opinion of the owner.

And it has begun. Of course at the bottom I did mention that it was totally the opinion of the owner just so this statement wouldn't be made but whatever. Lol

I also do not play competitively, I had never even thought about this. I try for the vortex and then attempt a catch with the left flipper upon exiting the pops. But I do from time to time get a stdm or far outlane so this makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the tip

I had to double check mine last night. I have no post where the hole in the plastic is. I do have the two sided tape still on the plastic but no bracket. I would say that when I tear it down this summer I will find it.

I also had to go check the vortex ramp that I have still wrapped in plastic from PPS. The ball gets stuck in it as well. 10 seconds with heat gun and all was well once again. Thanks for the tip on looking because I would have thrown it all together this summer, fired up the first game, got the ball stuck and then subsequently punch the glass, lol.

I have been looking for that piece for three years. Someone mentioned making one with Lexan and water slide decals but I am not too skilled in Lexan. I guess I'll keep waiting.

How does the playfield look under it. The mylar will come off with computer duster. It usually just separates from the glue and then you have to remove the glue with flour and alcohol but if the field is damaged or planked really badly it can do a little damage.

What kind of hum. Could be interference from the displays. Or could be bad caps depending on the hum.

I checked that site all the time. Bought one and a set of plastics as soon as I saw them. Then got an offer I couldn't turn down on my pinbot. Still have all of the parts but I plan on buying another one someday so it's all good

People say that it is easy to make with Lexan if you have the brackets. I just glued mine though.

I have a bunch of pinbot parts I might sell. I sold the game but was holding them for another one. I know I have a repro vortex and decals and a full plastic set. Also a set of decals for the drop targets as well as the grid replacement decal.

Just thought I'd mention that I sold all of these parts.

You did miss out. I sold everything I had for $250. Lol. I was $250 short on buying a Seawitch. You gotta do what you gotta do you know

Anytime. And my Seawitch sure appreciated the cash.

I'd say I have an extra. Let me look.

I also have a basically fully populated playfield that I am using for parts on my rebuild. If you need some odd things that you are having trouble finding I might be able to help you guys out. Just PM me what you might need. It had been robbed of some part before I picked it up but it still has a ton of stuff on it

Before and after! This thing plays super fast.

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Speaking of pinbot. I have an issue with the voice and sounds. The music is loud but the speech and sound effects are almost nonexistent. I adjusted the pot N the board to no avail. I have a new set of ROMs on order. Anyone have any other ideas

I re capped the sound board and the sound portion of the main board already. I didn't replace the pot because I didn't have one on hand. I'll have to pick one up.

Any other options beyond caps and pot.

No it has all stock boards

I will double check the solder joints and the connectors on the soundboard tomorrow. Thanks

I don't have a scope are the amps hard to come by?

I understand that. I know shot gunning parts can be costly and lead to other issues. I was just curious if it were a part that would be worth just replacing anyway. I am proficient at board work and they are 10 cents a piece. I need to just buy a scope as many machines as I work on. So do you have a recommendation on an affordable oscilloscope

It is running Prototype 4 ROMS. I ordered a set of sound and speech just in case.

Isn't there a "restore factory settings" option at the end of the options menu? If not just pull the batteries out and it will reset to factory settings. I don't think I've had a game that was set to 5 ball from the factory.

I put that decal on using the wet method. Went on perfectly. Just research the wet method for decals. I used soapy water and not windex. I didn’t clear coat

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And probably power off the coin door lights without having to run a line to the backbox

That looks very nice

Ehhhhh I would order from mad amusements within the US without any worry. I have never had a problem with him. I hear bad things about the international shipping and customer service but I and several others I know have had great success ordering from mad

While I agree with you. He is trying to avoid paying the $30 intl shipping rate from cointaker

If they are plastic can you freeze them with canned air? If it’s going to damage it anyway it’s worth a shot right

If you have LED flashers you will have to remove the 330 (I believe it is 330 lol) resistor from the resistor boards. The topper one is in the backbox right in the center. Four long cement resistors. I remove one leg of each of the outside ones I believe it was. Look up LED flashers and pinbot and there will be threads on how to do it

I believe he was referring to the orange 909 as opposed to the flour and alcohol. I had to read it twice lol

I always use flour and goo gone. Honestly I think every playfield is a little different. My pinbot glue came off in less than an hour. High speed?? Took me three days to get it all off. Same method

Pm sent. I need basically everyone of those. Lol. My Pinbot is going to be a player at best once I drop a ton of man hours into it and I really don’t want to buy a brand new full set for it.

Can someone help me out and post a picture of the 89 flasher socket set up and wiring in the topper?

I have the topper but someone removed all the sockets and wiring from it. I have tons of sockets so I should be able to recreate it if one of you fine gents would do me a favor and snap me a picture. I’d greatly appreciate it.

Awesome. I really appreciate it. This thing had two 40w incandescent light bulbs under the topper hacked directly into the power cord when I got it. I love pinbots light show and the topper is so integral in that.

I’d say he was looking for the rottendog cause they are cheaper. Unfortunately RD doesn’t make a display for Pinbot. My Pinbot had a couple digits out and the first thing I checked was to see how much a replacement was lol.

This set up was really cute don’t you think. Lol

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It’s not beautiful to look at. I didn’t have 8 sockets the same height so I staggered 4 of each. It works though so that is all that matters. Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it

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It has begun! Lol.

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I’m taking an obvious long shot as I doubt anyone has one but I need the long blue plastic around the eject hole. To be honest I’d even be interested in a broken one that was better than this one. Just let me know if you have something and we can work it out. Thanks

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I thought the artwork was different. I had a jackbot once but didn’t keep it long. I’ll look into it thanks.

This game is never going to be more than a player honestly and I really don’t want to go upside down on the cost. I only have the one broken plastic though and I hate to buy a whole set for the one piece. I have bought that set though for another Pinbot that I redid years ago and was pleased with it.

That is an insane amount for shipping. I believe if it was going to cost me that much I’d spend the $150 on the new set. If my playfield was nicer I’d buy the new set anyway.

I sent PantherCityPins a PM about his piece. It will finish mine up nice enough to make a solid players machine

Underneath the playfield where those two switches are you’ll see the leaf switch. There are two contacts on it and they probably need cleaned. Sometimes just alcohol on a q tip will do it. Sometimes I touch it with an Emory board a bit.

I am not insinuating you haven’t done this but try adjusting the level of the machine. Sometimes if you adjust the level just a little bit it will make it hit smoothly. I’ve had a ton of pins like that. Demo man and fish tales were the worst but my first Pinbot was a pain to get level

I assumed you had it perfectly level. I’m saying that sometimes they work better when the level is just a tad off. Seems like you’ve tried everything else to no avail. May as well give it a shot. I’ve had three different pinbots and they all played a bit different.

They are available on eBay. Or were last week. Probably classic arcades but better than nothing.

Everybody is a little different. I have owned all three and I rank them in the exact opposite order. I think Pinbot is timeless classic. The bride is a beautiful game but super easy and the billion point shot is just ehhh.... I hated jackbot. It played just fine but the theme was not my cup of tea. but that’s just me and what the heck do I know lol

I set all of mine at factory tilt then . 3 ball, super steep, everything rebuilt and snappy...the first two Pinbots I had I played without the center post but I’m keeping it in this one. I must suck at pinball cause I have never turned it over

I also use that kind but in the paste form and not the liquid.... and I too love the smell lol. That’s funny you said that.

That is interesting. I have owned 3 Pinbots and none of them have had the latch. They were all fairly early production so maybe the later production ones may have had a latch?

It looks nice!!! Good work!

I could be wrong but it appears that all your LED flashers are locked on. There is a way to get them to act normally, if this is in fact the case, by removing the grounds from the resistor boards.

I added color to each of the three Pinbot machines I have owned. I use white led for the yellow and color match the rest. For me, the real deciding factor is the amount of fade to the blue inserts. It seems like a lot of the blue inserts on pinbots I’ve had were washed out or faded. The color led really made them pop again. But with perfect inserts, I do not disagree with your opinion that all white led will be nice.

I’m struggling trying to save my Pinbot. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is the link. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-solenoid-issues-the-game-is-going-crazy-and-so-am-i-lol#post-4986931

Why are rottendog boards not suggested for Pinbot? I’m just curious. Is that the old 11 or the new 9-11 or is it just for both? I know there are sound issues with some of the boards but I had not heard they didn’t work with a specific game

I see what you’re saying. Replacement boards aren’t always the best choice. I haven’t heard them say that the new 9-11 board was not suitable for Pinbot. I hadn’t heard that about the older version either. I was well aware of the sound issues though. Of course an original board is always preferred. A ton of those 11 boards are completely destroyed. I have had a few that the battery damage had covered close to half the board

You are so right. I always try to fix my own boards. I actually enjoy the work and have repaired a ton of them (most with the help of several here on pinside). There is always someone who enters a repair/tech thread I start and suggests sending the board off for repair. I always appreciate the insight from anyone but honestly if I wanted to send it off I’d have done so already and wouldn’t have a tech thread going. On top of the enjoyment of working on the board and the personal satisfaction I gain from the accomplishment of fixing it, I learn something new with each repair thread. Maybe it’s just me. As for the rest of the post, I tear machines to nothing and go through every part on them. I am on ultrasonic cleaner number 3 at the moment. I may have more fun refurbishing a Machine than playing it at this point in the hobby. Seeing it play as it did when new is a treat for me. All the things you mentioned that need to be learned I also consider essential

I’m not sure you can get a reasonably shaped nonworking Pinbot in today’s market for that. There are a ton of them that is for sure but I don’t see them that low anymore.

I had that same issue with mine. The edges of the visor plastic was warped a little. I just ended up removing the rubber from those two posts. Not a perfect fix but it works

My other two both had rubber with no problem. The edges of the visor plastic curve in ever so slightly on this one which causes it to rub. I just didn’t want to fool with trying to heat it and bend it so I took the simplest fix and just removed those rubbers

If i hit it just right on mine I can almost sweep the drops. It’s never a clean sweep like on whirlwind but it’s drops them all nonetheless. I’ve had Pinbot in my collection for about 6 years total (three different machine over the course of a long time) and I’ve made it to the sun probably seven or eight times. I have never made the million point plunge with the game set up correctly. My first Pinbot had broken vortex ramp and a spring that was way too strong. At full plunge it would hit the glass and go in the 100000 hole everytime. That being said, I don’t count that one. Once I changed it I never hit that shot again lol. Of course I suck at pinball so that might be part of the reason.