Here's my Pin*Bot.
Pictures...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/pics/pics.html
Rules...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/rules/rules.html
A few repair tips...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/repair/repair.html
Great game!
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Here's my Pin*Bot.
Pictures...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/pics/pics.html
Rules...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/rules/rules.html
A few repair tips...
http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/repair/repair.html
Great game!
Years ago I had a similar problem with my Cyclone which was my first pin and my first flipper rebuild. The cause was a misadjusted EOS switch. I adjusted EOS switch so the coil received full power for a shorter length of time. That fixed the problem.
My Pin*bot is setup such that only clean, well-aimed shots make it all the way around the ramp. There’s not a whole lot of velocity by the time the ball reaches the top and sloppy shots won’t make it. I like this setup. It emphasizes skill and doesn’t beat up on the parts.
Quoted from floyd1977:Does anyone have a pic or can someone tell me what hardware is used to fasten the top red plastic (with the flasher cap) in this pic? Specifically there is a large opening (upper left hand corner) that is way bigger than a screw head.
On my game, there is a white plastic post beneath. A long screw goes through it but I have a clear washer on top to secure this plastic. Just wondering what the original hardware was.
Thanks.
On my game that hole corresponds with the left hole on the shooter lane one-way gate. The plastic is under the one-way gate so the one-way gate acts as the "washer". Also, my game has a metal post, not plastic.
I have no idea how to get a decent picture of a backglass. But I tried to do some comparing between my old translite and the CPR backglass... What's gray on my translite (top pic) is blue on the backglass (bottom pic). What's red on my translite is more orange on the backglass. There's little difference between red and orange on the backglass. What's red looks orange. What's orange looks orange/yellow. The mirroring is neat, but there's not much of it. The backglass might be a consideration for someone with a translite in poor condition. My translite was decent. If I had to buy the backglass again... well... I might not.
Big side-by-side comparison...
As I alluded to in my previous post, I think it's all relative. Some people weren't happy with CPR's Elvira backglass. I was happy since my Elvira translite was poor. In this case the backglass was very much an improvement although not exactly colored like the original translite. Many years ago I bought a Cyclone Backglass (not CPR). I held it up to my translite, couldn't tell the difference and ended up just hanging the glass on the wall. So I guess my advice would be to not just buy a backglass for the sake of buying a backglass. First evaluate what you already have.
Quoted from goingincirclez:Can anyone confirm if you are supposed to be able to backhand the ramp from the left flipper?
I would have said no, but I just went and did it (barely). Seems like a really tight shot though. I don't think I'm good enough to make it with any consistency.
Wait, never mind. That's a really old pic. Looks like I moved the post at some point. Here's how it looks now. The ball can get stuck, but again, I don't remember that is ever has.
EDIT: My setup looks correct compared to the game flyer. Interesting...
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Can anyone comment on the CPR mirrored backglasses for Pinbot? Are they good? Recommended upgrade?
Click...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-fans-and-owners-club/page/27#post-3493647
My vortex works well, but in 12 years I have never made the million point shot.
I set it up once and missed the final plunge.
Quoted from troxel:FYI
I did a quick write up on removing the visor/motor on a Pin*bot. It's here if anyone needs the help:
https://troxelrepair.com/2019/03/visor/
Thanks for the pictures. I just started taking my playfield apart for a cleaning.
Quoted from jibmums:What size rubber are you guys using here? This is actually a question for a Jackbot, whose manual specifies a 1" rubber, the posts are the same as Pinbot and a 1" is way too tight. The Pinbot manual has a rubber list but there's no "map" to where they're used, the only comparable sizes mentioned are 1¼" and 1½", so it's got to be one of those. The one on my Pinbot is an "ABC" brand, which doesn't show a size on it, plus it's all stretched out and dried up.
[quoted image]
1 1/4"
I'm not saying that's the correct answer. It's what was on my game and it worked. I'm currently cleaning a Pin*bot and I'm filling in the "map" as I go. I'll post my full results when I'm done.
The game manual didn't show locations for the rubber parts as most manuals do. Shown below is what I came up with. I'm not saying this is correct, but it's what was on my game and it seems to work. Note the 1" ring below the center jet bumper and the 4" ring to the right on the jet bumpers. Theses rings don't have a letter designation and were not in the ring kit I bought.
I've had my Pin*bot since 2006. It was clean and working to start with and I never had a need to do much to it. But I recently shopped the game and my notes can be seen at...
I've had my Pin*bot for more than ten years and have made it to the sun a few times. I'm thinking that the million point shot is the bigger challenge. I set it up only once and then pooched the final plunge.
Quoted from spblat:Would it be better to buy a ruined playfield and sell this one to someone who would like to restore it?
Yes. Once the playfield's originality is destroyed, it's gone forever. Don't kill the patient just so you can say you revived it.
I haven't tried this on all my system 11 games, but I believe you don't have to hit the start button after selecting your third initial. That way you get your initials and still enjoy the full sound/light show.
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