Hi, just joined the club (again) I sold my pinbot about 4 years ago and had regretted it ever since. I have also been looking for one ever since and luckily enough got one in a trade deal.

A little more work and it will be looking and playing fantastic.

Looking for repro sling plastics, either the small ones or full size.
Everywhere is currently out of stock. 12000+ pinbots made and no one has any?
Or did everyone decide to replace them at once so they all sold out. Lol

And both 7 segment numeric displays. Tested both in another machine and they are bad.
Saw the post up higher and may just have to order some.

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If anyone has any 7 segment displays and/or slingshot plastics they want to sell please PM me.

Trying to restore my Pinbot back to its origional glory.

Thanks, Eric.

If you are going to LEd the flashers. Cut all the grounds off the transistor board.
Just keep the power and driver wires connected.

The only ones you really need to cut are the topper. Backbox finger flashers. And upper left blue ramp flasher and I think the two top flashers in the visor.

Those Led flashers will be locked on if you dont remove the grounds from the boards.
When you do remove or cut the wires they will work perfectly.

The warming transistors will no longer be used. So no need to replace.

I cut my grounds off and put heat shrink over the ends so nothing can get shorted.

Yeah what he said. Resistors.

The rom is on IPDB. Its called ...

ROM Hack (Solar Value Reset Each Game 500,000; Solar Adv. 250,000)

It replaces 2 rom chips on the mpu.(u26-u27)
As far as I can tell looking at whats in the .zip file it doesnt have a rom version #.

Here are the text notes copied from the .zip

1. Rom Checksum test as been skipped. (If you have a bad rom, the programm won't see it)
2. Factory setting is at freeplay.
3. Everytime you start a new game, the Solar value is reset to 500 000.
4. The setting for the advance solar value is now 10 000 to 990 000 (factory 250 000)

Please note that this roms has not been modified by a professional. Use at your own risk. I'm don't want to be held responsable for any damage that can be caused by this rom.

I already did something similar to my Pinbot. I added a lamp socket under the ramp. And installed a superbright blue Led. That is tied to the energy value insert.
So when the energy value lights when the ramp lifts the whole thing lights up blue.

And added another socket with a ultra bright red that is tied into the solar value insert lamp.
So the clear ramp glows red.

I also added a 3 blue led strip on the left side of the visor over the blue ramp. It brightens up the back of the playfied a bit more and makes the ramp glow.

It looks great and is so easy to do.

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Hi. Yeah they are both under the metal flap. Standard 555 sockets will screw right under it no problem.

They are wired to the bulbs under the inserts. So they flash in attract mode. But while playing only light up when the insert is lit.

Green and purple look nice under there too.

Too bad my phone photos leds so crappy.

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My pinbot all LED lit up.
New plastics on the way.

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Hi, hoping someone can help me with a tech issue.

When you press the sound test button on the mpu what is the tone/tones on a working pinbot?
I get what sounds like a scratch and explosion.
Not sure if thats one tone or two

Either its working properly or I have a U23 ram error.

The speech stops working after the machine has been on for about 2 hours.
If i switch it off and back on it works again for about another 2 hours.

Its driving me crazy sourcing this intermittent problem out.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks. Thats what I get too. I guess that it is working correctly.
Its hard to tell if its one tone or two. As the "scratch" sound kind of booms at the end.

I wil do the above tests when it fails.

I picked up a new u23 ram today just in case.
I also picked up all new caps for the power supply.
They all seem good but Im going ti shotgun that as they look like origional components/caps.

One thing I found today when checking the transformer is I only have 10.5 volts on the grey/green lead.
But all other test points on the game test good?

Thanks, thats what I did. Got the correct voltage now. All is good.

Speech still cuts out after being on about 2 hours.
What has been done so far.
Replaced all caps on mpu,soundboard and rebuilt power supply board.
Replaced the main cpu chip on soundboard.

Still no change. Only it takes longer to cut out than when I started.

I started a thread about what are the correct test tones on the mpu.
The repair guide contradicts itself.

So I wanted owners to pool their info.
What is correct
1 tone after pushing sound test mpu button or two.

Guide says 1 tone ram error
2 tones rom error
2 tones gane working properly.

What does your pinbot do?
Link and poll

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-correct-sound-tones-with-cpu-test#post-2296625

Cvsd chip on the mpu. Not the sound board.
I had the same issue with my pinbot. While you are at it replace the caps too. Top left of the mpu. U3. Chip with #55536 on it.

Here is a pic from my f14 but pinbot is the same.

Here is the thread with the same issue you are describing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-help-needed-any-ideas#post-2242384

IMG_20160113_201056499_(resized).jpg

No offence to anyone in this post. When putting Leds in pinbot. Why do most people put all red and all blue? The part that bugs me the most is the slingshot white flipper fingers.
Personally they should be white.

You still get the red/blue but with proper light and the white flipper fingers on the plastics stand out.

Here's my pinbot Led scheme. Some added under the command plastics and a added spotlight. But otherwise mostly red /blue.

Same goes with the backglass.

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I'm not calling out your choice or anyone elses. There are 100's of pics of pinbot on the internet with the all red and blue color scheme.

It's all personal preference. I just don't want to see people buy a bunch of red and blue LEDs and put them in and think that's as good as their game can look with Leds. Red and blue make an already dark game even darker.

As far as the Inserts go. I would change them to Leds. Pinbot are notorious for the mylar bubbling. And incandescent bulbs heat are the reason this happens.
Pinbot it's one of the most iconic Pinball machines out there. It's a work of art as well as fun to play.

If you have insert bubbling, color match the Inserts. The bubbles will be less noticeable. But on yellow inserts always use white. Yellow leds are too dark and look bad.

Do a factory reset after swapping Roms. Stuff stored in the nvram will cause wierd issues. It needs a complete factory reset to clear any old stored settings/data, highscore etc. Also because there are conflicts with the new Roms settings and adjusts menu.

If you are going to do red and blue rubbers. Just remember that the flipper rubbers need to be red. Look at the plastics and pinbots fingers on the playfield and backglass. Otherwise it will look weird.

There are 1251 leds. But if you want to do a bit of modding to your machine and want to use the more common (cheaper) #89 leds.

You can use #89 Led flashers instead, if you solider a 1 watt 350ohm resistor across each 1251 flasher socket.

Also cut all the ground leads off the warming resistor boards under the playfield and in the backbox. Otherwise the#89 led bulbs will stay lit because of the warming circuit for the #89 incandescents.

My pinbot has been running that way for over 7 years. Not a burned out led flasher bulb yet.

May possibly be the 55536 Cvsd chip. I think it's located at U3. But check the schematic. Common problem on pinbot. Search Google or pinside.