Pinbot
Williams, 1986You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dq13.
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Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Ok...here’s the million dollar pinbot question:
Where can a guy get one of these plastics?[quoted image]
And when installing, contrary to several reviews, I had zero issues with the $13 rivet gun I got to attach the ramp cover to the brackets. Also FYI, I got 1/8" (gap length) rivets and that just did enough to hold it all together including the rivet washer with lots of head room for the ball to travel. I know you didn't ask, but there it is 
So I checked to see if I had the bushing for the motor/ target bank discussed above and indeed I do not. But after reassembling and turning on, the target bank raises and lowers continuously, no stopping. After pushing the start button, it continues to raise and lower, the ramp also raises and lowers a few times and finally rests in lowered position, and no ball is kicked out to start the game. Any suggestions on where to start?
Quoted from slochar:the limit switches aren't registering if the game doesn't see 'closed' for the visor it assumes it's open so it's cycling it until it sees closed.
Yep, wire got yanked off the switch, quick solder fix. Thanks, still learning my way around.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Id guess something is wrong with your flipper circuit. Look over your EOS switches and flipper mechs really well. If you have another fuse you may be able to watch it and narrow it down to one side or the other.
Agree with checking the EOS. Another good indication of an EOS issue would be if your coil is cooking; it will be significantly hotter than the other flipper coil. The switch is closed normally and should be open when you hit the flipper.
Quoted from imadork8:The right EOS flipper has been sticking... I have tried to gently sand inbetween the contacts to prevent this from happening, seems to be fine when the game is off, but when playing it still does it occasinally. This is probably what is causing it. Is it best to replace EOS or is there a good way to clean to prevent it from happening?
Best to just replace. It's an inexpensive part and not a difficult fix; it's one of the first things I did as a newbie (still am a newbie!). Plus it's not something you'll need to do often.
Quoted from RCA1:Fairly often. It's a pretty common game. Also depends on where you are and how far you are willing to travel.
Pricing is all over the place, based on condition. And pinflation is a real thing.
I paid $1,300 for my Pinbot about 10 years ago. It would probably sell for more than double that today.
Here's one that might be a bit high price for Pinbot, but the seller is 100% and the game looks really nice.Machine - For Sale
Pinbot
New!
Partially restored (almost original) “This beautiful Pin*Bot is the first pinball restoration I did many years ago. Is it perfect? No, but it is damn nice.
Good Stuff:
Was (and still is) loved
CPR Playfield, still...”13 hours ago
Sleepy Hollow, IL
3,600 (OBO)
TheNoTrashCougar
This is a premium price, but it looks like the playfield is new(er). This is as close to plug and play as you'll likely get on the market. If you're willing to put in some elbow grease and learn about the machine, I had a few minor things to do (EOS switch replacement, flipper plunger replacement, cleaning) but paid more than $1,000 less than this listing (bought mine in August 2020). I had never done any of those things; it's a great confidence builder for the maintenance and repair that comes with ownership.
Can anyone please confirm the wiring of orange and white on the flasher in the back right corner? I know it's not the easiest thing to just glance it. I made a rookie mistake with a crappy bad angled picture. It looks like the way the whites are flared that they go on the right side facing the picture. Thanks for any help!
070 (resized).JPG
Quoted from GRUMPY:The orange wire is the positive voltage, it should go to the center pin of the socket.
Thanks! Where the orange is snipped from here, is this the center pin of the socket you mentioned?
F89172D5-A6D3-4374-AB74-8F7A4B3B566F (resized).jpegQuoted from FLASHBALL:Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.[quoted image]
Yes, that was previously an issue, but I cut the bolt for clearance. It seems to be a matter of a millimeter or two on the solenoid plunger pushing back up to get the ramp to lay flush. Someone suggested double springing the solenoid, so I may try that
Quoted from sethbenjamin:That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!
Much thanks! Yes, I noticed a substantial difference in the gap after a playfield rebuild, so this makes complete sense that I looked past the needed adjustment. And yes, that bolt has been sliced!
I recently installed a new CPR plastics set. I'm not certain if the mini playfield is thicker than the original, but it sits flush on the pop bumper caps. It plays fine, but I can't even get the screw halfway on the left side down because of how it sits. I did recently do a Hardtop, but I don't think there is any impact on how the pop bumpers sit after the rebuild; but thought it's worth mentioning if I've overlooked something there. Anyone else have this happen/recommend a fix?
UPDATE, RESOLVED: I replaced the pop bumper bodies with new ones, which apparently are taller than the originals.
Quoted from Vin-bot:Have a look at the Williams blue book.. (on planetarypinball.com) it will show you almost parts and part numbers for Pinbot. This could help avoiding issues like this.
Indeed I will be more proactive. On the seller's site that shall remain nameless, the taller modern pop numbers have the same catalog part number and list as product compatible with Pinbot. I just went back and visited the site to double check, and they do have a disclaimer that the modern parts are taller than the original; don't remember seeing that when I bought them 6 months ago. Oh well, project time.
Quoted from FrankJ:Why not just get a hardtop?
Completely agree; no need to reinvent the wheel for a potentially lesser product with bigger headaches in developing
Quoted from WeirPinball:Another one that doesn't look right anyone have a pic of this one?
[quoted image]
That one is correct. It keeps the ball from jumping behind those two bulbs and getting stuck. I know because I forgot to put it back in one time and the ball jumped behind the two bulbs and it got stuck and I had to take apart the entire ramp structure to put it back in. It was not the most fun I've ever had.
Quoted from Billc479:I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks
It's either one of these, not sure which you are having issues with. Looks like Marcos has one, but not the other: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-09957-00. Not sure if the part number has been changed, or the part updated
switches (resized).pngQuoted from Billc479:I checked the diode, (one end lifted) and it checks good. However, the switch is not consistently reading open and closed when actuated by hand, so I think I have a bad switch. Does anyone have the part number? The actuating mechanism is internal to the switch, so I have to order it with the correct actuator. I can't find the part in my parts book, so does anyone have a part number I can use? Thanks
Or maybe you mean the outhole switch, 17-1067 (#16 on the chart above). According to Action Pinball, this has been discontinued but they suggest a workaround switch. See this page: https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=17-1067
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Hey all, I guess I'm a member of the club for 7-8 years now...kinda. I bought mine for $150 from a guy that took it all apart to "restore" it. I got handed a tub of parts and I hope everything is all there. Anyhow since it's stripped I'm going to do some touchups. Can anyone tell me if that wear in the orange is visible? I looked at a bunch of pics and it looks like it may be hidden by the pops and mini PF. Wondering how good my touchup needs to be, sucks I have to do the black line as well. I'm sure I'll be here a lot once I start to reassemble. Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
You won't be able to see it. That's right behind a bank of targets and under the mini-playfield.
Quoted from vid1900:Pinbot @ Aldi this week.
I'm not sure what it is used for...[quoted image]
Sensory deprivation rocket?
Quoted from gac:Help needed! - I recently bought my Pinbot and it has an issue with the "n" segment (per the manual) in each of the seven display digits on both alphanumeric display panels. The "n" segment does not light up in any of the 7 digits on either panel. So, for example, the letter "R" always displays as "P", no matter which unit of either 7-digit display it is in. Similarly, a "K", "N", "W", or "X" will not display this segment either. Any thoughts as to the cause and how to repair? Thanks in advance to all.
My first and easiest go to is to reseat the connectors at both ends.
Quoted from section88co:Hello, looking for some help. My Pinbot didn't come with the vortex ramp cover and I found one with no brackets. Marco sells the brackets and they come in 3 lengths, which one do I need 2 of (A,B OR C)?
Thanks!
You need all 3 if you have none. They attach to the playfield/plastics at varying heights
Quoted from MydknyteStyrm:Just realized that it’s broken. The wire doesn’t extend enough through the hole. How would I replace it? I wouldn’t even know what part number it is lol. Thanks!
Just checked the manual with no luck. Feel free to double-check my work and let me know what you find. I need this part, too!
PB (resized).pngQuoted from Wizbangdoodle:Ok, wondering if anyone else has experienced this phenomena.
I had gotten to the point that on launch, I could hit the 100,000 hole on the corkscrew ramp about 95% of the time. Lately, the ball has been acting different on launch. Sometimes it will act as if it gets slowed down as it hits the ramp (or shortly before). When I try to compensate for that, it flies up to the 20,000 hole.
What it comes down to is, it's not consistent. Months ago, it was great. Now, I can get it to the 100,000 hole about 30-40% of the time. Any ideas?
I would start with looking at the plunger rubber. It may need replacing or just resetting. Definitely vacuum and clean the lane and the ramp. Also, check the shooter rod and make sure it's contacting the ball directly in the center. Sometimes the assembly needs realigning
Quoted from Borntolose:I have recently installed a hardtop in my pinbot and since then the ball has a hard time sitting into the eyes.. the ball has to be rolling super slow for it to lock in!! Wondering if anyone has had the same issue and might have some tips?!
Thank you
Yes, this happened with mine. I dremeled around the holes to make them absolutely flush with the playfield. It helped a lot, but still pops out from time to time. Any hardtop overhang seemed to impact the behavior of the eye holes.
Quoted from TronGuy:What is a hard top?
The most polarizing piece of plastic in all of pinball
Spoke too soon and have a lil head scratcher here. I lost 10 and 18, and apparently 34 is out, too. Everything else in the row checks out (except 2, which looks to be dismantled and can't be checked) and everything else in each respective column checks out. Tried to replace the 18 switch with recommended part update, as original is out of production, but it doesn't register. There was no diode on the original, and had been working perfect for 3 years I've owned it. Diode on 10 checked out good. Any ideas where to look next?
Quoted from gutz:Dont ask me how i know this, but your break is at the middle drop target (50).
Ha! Son of a bitch, circuits activated
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Cincinnati, OH