(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

6 years ago



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  • 4,034 posts
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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by sethbenjamin
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#3075 1 year ago

Having a strange problem with my newly acquired Pinbot machine.

The LCD score displays will randomly go blank, sometimes in the middle of a game and sometimes they're blank when the machine is first turned on. It can last for days, or just several minutes. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to the behavior. Everything else is fine, and I can play a game, but with no idea what my score is or what ball it is.

I don't see any obvious loose connectors or burned out fuses.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

#3077 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Did you reseat all cables to the displays?

Yes. No effect.

#3079 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

LCD?! Are they the original gas displays or newer replacement LED displays? If gas, I would first suspect the high voltage from the power supply, there are a couple notorious resistors for high voltage. Next time they black out, measure your 100/-100v on the power supply and on the display driver.

I may be using the wrong term. I'm not sure whether these are original or were replaced at some point.

#3082 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

Pull the glass/translight out and post a pic of the displays with the machine off, they will be quickly identified as original gas or new LED replacements. Depending on which type they are will tell you where you need to start trouble shooting since gas displays use high voltage, and LED do not use high voltage.

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#3106 1 year ago

I'm running into a problem where the skill shot at the start is messed up because the ball almost always hits something before or as it gets to the spiral ramp. It's all going too fast for me to see where it's hitting.

I suppose this is a somewhat common problem because I seem to remember that happening back in the '80s when I originally played Pinbot. What's the most likely culprit and is there a fix?

#3109 1 year ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Make sure the plunger tip is hitting the ball squarely on center.

Is there a way to adjust it? I've rotated the plunger and didn't notice any asymmetry.

#3155 1 year ago

I'm thinking about replacing the original score displays with new LED versions. Does anyone know what code is used so I order the proper version?

I see terms like DIS079 and it looks close to what I've got in Pinbot, but it says it's for system 7-9. Isn't Pinbot system 11A?

#3167 1 year ago

So it looks like XP-WMS10877 or PS-10877 are the versions available through Xpin and PinScore. Thanks.

#3176 1 year ago

With the problems I've had with the original 100V power supply and score displays going black, if I were to replace them with new LED displays and board, would that bypass the problem. I have someone coming out to replace the power supply, but I figured maybe now would be a good time to simply upgrade.

#3206 12 months ago
Quoted from JFink8222:

I ordered a brand new plastic set from Marco. Already received. Once I repopulate my playfield I will/can list what plastics I have left and sell/ship to whoever needs what. This will be a HOU so I’m not too concerned about holding on to spare plastics. It’ll be about 2-4 weeks until I can list them for whoever is wanting plastics

Thanks, I have a couple broken and glued pieces I'd like to replace.

3 weeks later
#3311 11 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

Today I installed an Inkochnito Bridge Board which is a must do upgrade for our aging Pin•Bots.

What is the purpose of this upgrade?

#3317 11 months ago

Thanks for the info. I just ordered one.

#3336 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Couple of questions:
First, I am getting a decent number of glass hits off of shots to the visor bank. Just seems to rebound off hard and pop up. Normal?
Second, I got a check switch message a couple days ago on the Energy Transfer switch. Only happened once. Since then the timer on the planet advance targets and the Energy Transfer switch have been really fast. Like it goes into rapid mode on the sound right away. Any ideas?

That rebounding is not normal. My ball hits them and never ricochets into the glass.

How fast are your planet advance and energy transfer resetting. The default is 15 seconds which I feel isn't enough time. I reset mine to 25 seconds and it made the game more fun, but since then, it seems to have reset to 15 seconds again all on its own.

#3342 11 months ago

Can someone check the posts around the Advance Planet target.

The previous owner used a drywall screw on mine and I'd like to replace it with the proper post.

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#3348 11 months ago
Quoted from RedFlash:

Here is a picture of this area. As you can see there is bended wire and no post.[quoted image]

I was not expecting that, but that explains why it's so hard to get a ball to slide into that area cleanly. Thanks.

#3362 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

What does everyone have their 3 bank drop target and energy transfer timers set at? My timers were set at 7 seconds for some reason which was too short. I set them both at 15 seconds which the manual says is factory. Too long?
I was able to reach the Sun yesterday which was cool but I wonder if 15 seconds is too easy. I did play for a solid hour just working on advancing planets in every game to learn the shot but still...

I still feel that 15 seconds is too short. My wife likes to play, and I like to encourage that, so I set it at 25 seconds. That seems to be the time that keeps her interested in playing the game.

#3394 10 months ago

Troxel, is this similar to the Inkochnito component mentioned a couple weeks ago?

#3405 10 months ago

I'd like to get your opinion on whether it's worth having both Pinbot and Bride of Pinbot. I currently have Pinbot and I love the 'fembot' theme of Bride, but is the game significantly different that owning both is not redundant? Jackbot looks just like pinbot, so I'm not thinking about getting one of those.

Opinions please?

#3411 10 months ago

In terms of the Bride having the billion point shot and that encourages ramp shot after ramp shot, can't it be set to downplay that situation? I've changed settings in a few of my pins (via the button on the inside of the coin door) to make the play more balanced.

#3417 10 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

I absolutely hear you. I had the board for months before I was comfortable doing the install. I didn't realize that the board actually floats and is held to the backbox with screws through holes through the rectifiers. The screws that hold in the old rectifiers worked perfectly and the board actually floats above the backboard.
Look at post #3310. I think there is everything you need there. That said, starting is the hardest part of this job. Just make sure when you clip the wires from the large cap and the 2 rectifiers, you clip them close to the cap and rectifiers and not on the connector side.
It was MUCH easier than I expected and for added safety if you want to post a picture before you turn it on, Peter will give you his personal "it looks OK" and as Grumpy says, we're all here to help.
Go for it. You will not be sorry. Then after that, the fuse board for your special solenoids should be next. <G>
///Rich

Awww, sh-t! I just installed the Inkochnito board as you had illustrated, and I've got a problem. I ended up with two extra lengths of wire that I believe went from the capacitor to the rectifiers, so they were cut at each end--what do I do with them?

I also had a lavender colored wire and a blue wire instead of two blue wires, so I treated the lavender wire as if it were a blue wire (it matched up with one of the blues coming out of a connector in your images) and connected it to the inkochnito board as if it were a blue wire.

Now the game comes on but no lamps under the playfield are illuminated.

Here's what I've got.

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#3420 10 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

I do think that is it.
///Rich

Yup, that was it.

#3423 10 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

So now let CoitusMysterioso know how easy this is and nothing to be afraid of.
///Rich

Yeah, I guess I was just thrown by the fact that there were two leftover wires and no one had mentioned that anywhere. Also, lavender wire in place of one of the blues in my case, and that middle connection on the 3-pin block that isn't used at all--I made the incorrect assumption that all three spots on that block were the same.

Thanks for pointing out my mistake. I appreciate the help offered on this site!

#3425 10 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The board was made with 4 different sized connector blocks so that they would never be connected incorrectly. Smart thinking!

Hey, I know from our home business (not pinball related), that if there is a way for a customer to misinterpret or screw up my instructions, it'll happen.

#3433 10 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Would you or someone put up a few pics of the board wired correctly? I would appreciate it. I just want to make sure that I get it right when I get mine. Mine doesn't have a blue wire but it has 2 whites. Also, would someone clarify which wires will not be used on the new bridge board? Thanks![quoted image]

Those aren't white wires, they're a light lavender color and they are equivalent to the blue wires others have in their game. The wires that are left over are both connected to the Capacitor (the large gray cylinder at the bottom of your photo).

The connections will look like the image below except your lavender wires will be in place of the blue wires.

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#3435 10 months ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Thanks! So same color wires are interchangeable on the new board? The reds, blues, oranges and blacks?

Yes.

#3439 10 months ago

Can anyone tell me why you lose all your planets after getting to the sun? It just seems strange to start at Pluto again and not have that extra bonus.

#3443 10 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

When I turn on unlimited extra balls, Pinbot becomes the unending game from hell. Thats why I keep him at factory reset adjustments, so turning him over is harder. My best game with unlimited EB’s was an unending 50 million plus game that I had to just walk away from. Thats a 5x turnover. That is how dangerous extra balls are on Pinbot. I only need 5 good balls on pinbot to turn him over. My Wife had me set him to 5 ball play for her, and he became a 9999999 high score table idiot. 5 balls with factory extra balls = turn me over.

I know what you mean by too many extra balls, but for my family to enjoy the game, I have to make it easier. Even so, I've come close to turning it over, but never 5 times!

1 week later
#3486 10 months ago
Quoted from jibmums:

All Pinbots are game #549. What's the full # on the serial sticker?

Where would I find the serial sticker?

#3488 10 months ago

Since it's called game #549 does that mean it is the 549th pinball game that Williams made?

#3501 9 months ago

Just messaged the Alltek website with the following note:

"I have an Eight Ball Deluxe (1984 version) that the previous owner put an Alltek MPU board in. It seems to be model number HS3-94V-0 based on what's stamped on it. There's the number 1531 stamped below the other numbers. The game dipswitches are correctly placed for this EBD game. My problem is that I can't seem to set it up for free-play. I moved the left-most switch up (on), and flipped off switch 27, but the credits display is still lit and the credits are running down. I tried switching off 16 and 20 (one at a time) and they didn't turn off the credits panel either. Is this board an earlier board that didn't support free play? Or am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any help you can offer."

I'll post their response if it might be useful for other players here.

2 weeks later
#3565 9 months ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Sadly after 15 years of ownership I'm out of the club. Sold my Pinbot yesterday.

Looked like a very fair price too. I'd have looked at it if I didn't already have one.

7 months later
#3962 47 days ago

I'm having trouble resetting the high scores. All four of them are at 9,999,999 now. I've looked at the manual and it offers three options, but none are working.

Of course, I don't want to wait for 1000 plays before it automatically resets them.

The button on the door doesn't seem to work--it says to press that during the "attract" mode, but nothing happens.

Any ideas?

#3965 46 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to hold it for 10 seconds.

You are correct. That, and the fact that the diode had somehow come unsoldered from the wiring below the button. Thanks for your help.

2 weeks later
#3990 31 days ago

Having a problem with the plate that drops to allow for multiball capture (white arrow). Over time it has gotten to the point that it's not dropping completely, which sometimes allows a ball to be trapped behind it since it isn't flush with the playfield.

Looking under the playfield, the plate doesn't appear to drop all the way down to the screws below, particularly on the right side (red arrow)--I'm assuming these screws are there to stop the plate at the proper height. I'm wondering if the fix is to use some lubricant like PB Blaster along the guide on each side of the plate (blue arrow).

Your suggestions are really appreciated.

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