Just got a Pinbot - my first project pin. Replacing the battery holder (put it off board) and replacing a flipper link got me basic operation. Player displayers 3 and 4 are out so my first plan is to replace glass displays with LED display from wolfpac (just received) so I can work through diagnostics. Boards seem OK. Playfield not bad - likely had mylar on for its entire life - although every insert has some bubbling under the mylar. Lots of info in this club thread for me to learn from. Looking forward to getting this guy back to where it plays nicely.

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Continuing work on my Pinbot project. Feel the sling shot kickers are weaker than they should be so checked the 34VDC out of the bridge rectifier and it was at 24VDC. 27 VAC input to rectifier. Thought maybe the rectifier was bad so ordered and installed the Inkanito board - I wanted the fuse and new cap(s) anyway. Still same thing. Measuring good 27 VAC input to board. With Inkanito output disconnected seeing 27 VDC - still not 34 VDC. Rang out rectifier and it seems OK. Any thoughts on why I'm not seeing 34VDC appreciated or what I should try next. This is driving me nuts.

Grumpy - I completely disconnected the front door cable (and the connection to the visor target bank motor). Still only 27 VDC out of the rectifier (unloaded). I checked for any AC on the rectifier output and it was 7 to 8 VAC (which seems high) on top of the 27 VDC. I disconnected the 26 VAC to the rectifier and checked each line to ground. One read 32 VAC and the other read 6 VAC (I assume they are out of phase hence the line to line measurement of 26 VAC). Seems like the input is not balanced. Looking through the manual power wiring diagram (page 63) I'm not seeing what would balance this input like a transformer center tap to ground; however, line to ground was 15VAC on both when connected to the rectifier so I guess the unconnected line readings don't matter. The high AC content and low DC voltage on the 34VDC output seems like a bad rectifier but I can't believe I've had two go bad and the new one rang out OK. I also went back and checked the old rectifiers and they both rang out OK. The game does play fine other than my perceived weak sling kickers. Maybe what I'm measuring is normal given lack of large filter cap on the 34VDC rectifier output. The 18 VDC Lamp rectifier output is fine but it is has large filter cap(s). I may be overthinking this so I'm going to move on. I would be interested what other's measure on their machines or other suggestions. Thanks for your time!

My player 3 & 4 glass displays were not working in my project Pin Bot. I replaced all the displays and board with Wolffpac tech display kit. PM me if you'd like the old glass display hardware - free with you paying venmo for the shipping. I'll post when they are claimed by first message I get - I check pinside once each day.

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In troubleshooting my perceived weakness of my sling kickers compered to my other two games, I reached the conclusion that the filter cap on the power supply board for the 34VDC SOL B + voltage is undersized and does not hold the voltage up well with the constant load of the flasher warming resistors. So I converted to LED flashers. As I removed the flasher warming resistors, the voltage improved from 25VDC with 9.2VAC ripple (all warming resistors in) to 35.5VDC with 1VAC ripple (no warming resistors). The other option would have been to up size the filter cap from 100uF to 1000uF. (I had already recapped the power supply board and installed a new Inchanito rectifier board.) I also ended up installing 100 ohm resistors in parallel with each set of LED flashers to eliminate sympathetic flashing between the different flashers per castlesteve in post below:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games#post-2886374
Thanks to GRUMPY for supporting my troubleshooting efforts.

Display's claimed and shipping to @gutz.

When you say missing some music, do you mean music our sound? In the diagnostics, there is a music test (for sound board generated audio) and a sound test (for CPU generated audio). The CPU board sounds 1-5 come from the DAC and the 6-7 sounds come from the CVSD U5. I had to replace the CVSD chip on my pinbot.

After a year of slow work, I'm calling my project BUO (Bar Use Only) Pinbot done. I way overpaid for this my first project pin ($2,500) but it was fun to work on and I learned a lot. I've added it to my small lineup of now 3 space themed machines. I tracked hours and material. About 75 hours labor and $1,000 in parts. Parts to get it fully functional was about $430 with the big swingers being the Wolftec display kit, rubber ring set, CVSD chip, coil sleeve set, and shooter rod rebuild with the rest replacing miscellaneous missing, broken, and incorrect hardware plus a few spares. Updating to LEDs, spare/experimental bulbs, and adding the two back box light baffles cost me about $270. I agree the flasher LEDs above the playfield are too bright but sticking with them for now. Other cosmetic updates cost about $230 with the big swingers being new glass and full set of Cliffy protectors and then ramp decals. I lucked out and got a red ramp needing rework from Strummy to replace the black Jackbot ramp in my PinBot. The red ramp makes a huge difference! Things I didn't do was replace or repair the playfield. It has the original factory installed mylar, so it doesn't look too bad, but every insert has some level of bubbling and there are very fine planking crack lines observable on close inspection under the mylar. I did the usual deep clean and wax and also reworked and clear coated the shooter lane which was in sad shape. I also didn't mess with replacing the cabinet and back box side art as there was various level of planking around it - although I did do quite a bit of hand touchup to make it presentable. I also didn't replace the plastics although I did do a thorough cleaning/polishing and used Weld On 3 to glue that upper left plastic together - it was in 4 pieces. Looking forward to years of enjoyment - the grandkids love it! On to my Cueball Wizard project.

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I'm getting more play on my refurbed PinBot and noticing the eye shots seem harder than they should be. I believe I'm getting some ball flight from the 5-bank target (and possibly the Cliffy I installed). My target bank does not settle square when up and I have found it doesn't sit square when down either. See photo for when up. I used the two adjusting screws to get the front edge flush on both sides when pushed down manually but in game play the right side is up slightly and doesn't sit on the right adjustment screw when down. Again, it sits flush if I push down manually on the right side. There is some play of the target carrier in the target guide that allows it to cock to one side. I've read all the "5-Bank" posts and haven't found this specific issue discussed. Any suggestions on how to get the target carrier to be square when up and down would be much appreciated. Also, to me it seems that the top of the carrier is slightly angled so the back is slightly higher than the front. Should the back be flush or the front or somewhere in the middle?

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I just happened to have my ramp off and got measurements for the posts. Starting at the top of the ramp (left) and working around to the last post before the top playfield (right)(: 2-3/4, 2-15/16, 3-3/8, 3-1/2, 3-5/16, 3-1/16

Update on air balls over my 5-target bank into the eyeballs and the target bank being unlevel.
Main cause of the air balls was the Cliffy protector I installed:
- The part of the target guide that extends up into the hole was pushing the back edge of the protector up. I beveled the back edge of the target guide to eliminate the interference. See 1st photo.
- The front edge of the protector is enough to get balls airborne. I stuck a piece of painter's tape in front of the protector to reduce the step and it made a huge improvement. My permanent solution was to remove the protector, remove the mylar under the protector, and reinstall the protector. The mylar now hides a bit of the protector edge and provides the same improvement the tape did. 2nd photo shows the mylar removed and the beat-up edges around the hole that I wanted to cover up hence all the work to make the protector work.
Other little changes I made:
- I knocked down the transition on the center top of the carrier so it is flat, see 2nd photo.
- The target carrier front edge sits lower than the back edge (at least on my PinBot), so I installed screws under the playfield (see 3rd photo) to pull the metal tabs on the target guide up to the playfield and level the carrier a bit.
For whatever reason, the target bank is now sitting level and against both the adjustment screws when down; however, the target bank is still a bit crooked when up. I did find and repair a crack in my target guide but it didn't help with the up-position level. I likely need a new target carrier and target guide. Also, my visor is wrapped. I'm leaving these for another day.
Thanks to @RichWolfson, @Gornkleschnitzer, and Cariba for the troubleshooting suggestions and help.

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They are machine screws into metal posts. I have never removed the posts so I’m not sure how they attach to the playfield.

Small put on the LED discussion. Comet makes a neat icy-blue LED that I use occasionally. On PinBot I used it in the Neptune insert to add little variety to the planet colors.

Just put in ice blue in the chest grid and agree it looks better than the blue. I also switched the yellow in the chest grid from warm white to natural white - really helped get a nice better yellow (IMO) to differentiate more from the orange. I tried doing natural white with the yellow inserts in my Attack From Mars and the result was hideous - a garish pea green.