(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

10 years ago


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  • 6,055 posts
  • 462 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ZeldaOoT.
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#1078 7 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey Pinbot fans, I'm still having troubles with my skill shot. Stumbles before the ramp and randomly (50%?) goes up to the top.

Thanks for bringing this up. I've noticed that issue a bit on mine recently as well, maybe about 20 percent of the time. I'll have to take a peak at the housing you're asking about and report back. If you find a fix in the meantime please let us know.

#1084 7 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I intend to LED my newly acquired Pinbot in the blue/red scheme. Has anyone found flasher lamp housing in blue and red that match that can replace the amber ones? I think blue on the blue side and red on the red side would pop!

I'm not sure if you've taken a moment to look yet, but the Amber flasher housing is actually a part of the plastics in this game. I haven't seen new plastics without amber for this game.

#1094 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

They're just standard domes that are riveted to the plastics, you can change them to any color you want. New plastics don't come with the domes, just big holes for you to rivet (or nut/bolt) them in. All my domes are < Blue or Red >.

Thanks for the correction and my apologies on the misinformation. I was just looking at one of mine this last week and I'm not sure how I missed it. I think the red and blue look nice!

#1102 7 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Cointaker has bulbs listed for this application just FYI http://cointaker.com/products/1251

I recently used these, they work and look great despite being a little on the pricey side IMO. I'd recommend them.

#1103 7 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey Pinbot fans, I'm still having troubles with my skill shot. Stumbles before the ramp and randomly (50%?) goes up to the top. From a full plunge. Anyway, I've read a ton on this topic and spent a couple hours trying some of the suggestions. Here's a couple questions:
How does your shooter housing connect to the cabinet? My cabinet has a big triangle cutout. The housing doesn't bolt to the cabinet. It has a plate that sandwiches the cabinet to hold in place. It has a TON of movement in any direction. Maybe 5mm up down left right. Is that normal for Pinbot?
I read about loosening back screws of something to make skillshot better. I swear it was the vortex. Do I have to remove the ramp and mini playfield to get to that? I was confused.
Finally, I was getting 80% full plunges reaching the top hole (I know that's not the goal, but it's my benchmark for "fixed") on two separate occasions tonight. I thought, "fixed!!" And then realized that the left "hanger" from the apron that settles down into the slot to fully seat the playfield was not down. Once I seated it all the way down again, skillshots were broken again! It was hard to get that hanger to line up with its slot. Could my whole can be warped or twisted?
Help!
Thanks.

Hey, not sure to what degree you're still having the issue but thought I'd report an update on my end. I lubricated the shooter rod on my pinbot with some dry teflon spray, the same stuff I use on my bike chain. Since doing that, it has worked flawlessly. It doesn't get caught at the bottom of the ramp anymore, and the shooter moves much smoother than it did previously when it felt slightly more stiff or sticky. Maybe this can help you out a bit?

#1127 7 years ago
Quoted from henrydwh:

Mine had 89's in the eye's when I got it, but they kept burning out really quick! Switched to 1251 and no problems! I am thinking the incandescent 89's could not handle the voltage, but obviously the 1251's are made for the 28 volts. Now as far a LEDs go, I have no idea how voltage affects them, I have looked for 1251 LEDs and have not been able to find any, so assuming voltage does not affect LEDs the way it affects incandescent , using 89 LEDs in place should work!
Anybody, feel free to correct me if I am wrong in my thinking.

Cointaker makes 28V LEDs to replace the 1251's. I have them and they work great.

#1131 7 years ago
Quoted from henrydwh:

I always forget about cointaker, are they plug and play or require a mod?

They are plug and play. The hardest part was getting the screws out to access them from underneath in my opinion. You can access them above too if you want to remove a ramp and plastics.

I did remove warming resistors for the other 89 flashers but it was really easy and prevented ghosting. There are several threads about it if you need assistance.

3 weeks later
#1172 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

What are we looking at here?

It took me a while, but I'm thinking the holes on the right-hand side with the cracks coming off of them. Could be much worse.

1 week later
#1191 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

How many of you removed the factory mylar on your Pinbot? How did it go? How was the playfield prior. Most importantly, how much ART/paint came off?
Did you paint touch-up afterwards or left as-is?
I'm almost done with my PF tear down and now wondering about the mylar. Do or not not, there is no try... The rest of the game is going through a full restoration btw.

I did not personally remove the Mylar on my pinbot, but it was done by a previous owner (which is beyond me). The artwork on mine wasn't damaged in the process. I'm sure the more time that goes by, the more you run a risk of that happening but I'm no expert on that. Because of luck either way!

#1215 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Yes please, if someone as a file I'll print my own.
Please PM. Thanks!

A tip in advance- unless you have a printer that can print "white" toner, having the file won't help you. I made a replica but don't have access to a printer with white toner.

2 months later
#1374 7 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

About those decals, anyone who bought a set would be willing to spare his "Adv X" decal? That's the only one I need.
Thanks!
-G

Ditto- mines very faded. Replicated one myself but don't have a printer capable of printing white ink at my disposal to print it.

#1384 7 years ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Ok so still bringing back a pinbot from the dead... most everything's working now except a couple flashers.. the damn game smells like something's gonna burn up if you play it for more than a couple games so I'm going over it and looking for ground shorts and I stumbled onto this.... is this somebody's accident or is it supposed to be this way? It looks like the ground is soldered to the 28v power? Can someone confirm this for me please on their game

Any chance any of your coils are getting extremely hot when its on? One of my flippers started doing that at one point, and smelled similar to what you mean. All it came down to was some cold solders- I reheated the one's on the flipper coil and on one of the boards that power the flippers. One of the wires had lost connection from a pin that should have completed the circuit in that connector. (Also, I'm not super savvy with electrical so I apologize if any terminology is off, but it was an easy fix). My point being- if any coils are hot and smelling perhaps follow the wires to where they go on the board- the schematics helped wonderfully for that.

3 weeks later
#1410 7 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

#2 is the strongest design IMHO, but the cost is more than I would entertain for a speaker panel cover. Not much to be done about that given material costs though. Nice work.

I second that opinion.

#1414 7 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Thanks for the comments.
Based on feedback so far, I revised the leading candidate and then tweaked it with a friggin' light-bulb-duh-brilliant idea... check it out there, I think it actually looks awesome now!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-stainless-steel-speaker-panel-concepts-interest#post-3586401

Thanks for continuing to keep us updated on this thread. Love the most recent one.

1 week later
#1423 7 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I have the high quality scan

Hey- do you have a scan of the sticker on the plastic above the mask that goes over the blue ramp? Any chance you can share the files with me?

#1427 7 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'm happy help, but we need some measurements to make these. Can anyone contribute?

Can you be more specific with regards to which measurements you need? If you want to PM me on how to get the scans I can get an idea what you're looking for as well. With regards to my first question- do you the sticker on the plastic above the mask over the blue ramp? I guess its like the visor.

4 weeks later
#1473 7 years ago
Quoted from mhkohne:

Having both seems terribly redundant to me. If you've got a small collection, I'd want some variety, rather than replication.
But, if you love them both, it's your collection, do what you want!

I'm in agreement. Pinbot over jackbot. Although some programming may differ, the layout is too similar to justify both in a small collection in my opinion.

#1479 7 years ago

I haven't had an issue with a ball getting stuck there. Is there a commonality in what is causing the ball to go airborne in that direction? That's what I would focus on addressing.

2 months later
#1595 6 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

My plastic ball guide cover that loops around the vortex ramp is in 3 sections. Does anyone sell these or is there a way to repair them?

I've had good luck repairing clear plastics out of polycarbonate sheets from the local hardware store. If you have the original as a template for the size/shape that helps, but not fully necessary. When cutting curves especially I'll use a jigsaw with a sheet metal blade. The trick is having a piece of plywood underneath the polycarbonate to absorb some of the pressure and prevent it from cracking. Someone else may have a better suggestion but it's worked pretty reliably for me. You can heat and/or buff the edges to make them look smoother at the end.

#1603 6 years ago
Quoted from dudah:

I use a laser cutter at my library's Makerlab for free. Way easier and cleaner.

I'll have to see if I have access to that, sounds great! Thanks for the tip.

1 month later
#1690 6 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

Hey guys, I have a weird issue on my Pinbot. I updated the flashers to blue and red LED flashers. If I replace them all they will stay lit. If I leave one incandescent flasher everything works as expected. Also the light in the red square of the "talking lights" in the back box flickers and blinks constantly. It flickers with an incandescent bulb as well and I put a non ghosting LED in but it still flickers a lot. Any help or suggestion would be great.
Thanks

For the flashers, did you remove any of those rectangular capacitors on the boards under the playfield to accommodate the change to LED?

#1692 6 years ago
Quoted from Darscot:

No just changed the bulbs, should I remove them? More info would be great. Like the username

Haha thanks! If I were near my pin I'd send a photo. You may be able to find a thread on it. You have to remove 2 of the 4 to convert to the LED flashers on each board, but without looking I don't remember which are here as warmers which keep those LEDs on if they aren't removed. If I find the thread I'll add it in another post.

#1693 6 years ago

I'm on my phone so had an issue linking to this. See picture.

IMG_0067 (resized).PNGIMG_0067 (resized).PNG

#1699 6 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Does the 'remove outside resistors' trick work for all the controlled lamps, or only the flashers? It would be great to have a way to go LED without a slew of the expensive non-ghosting bulbs.
Also - Didn't realize they made LEDs for the 1251s. Even more a kick in the pants since cointaker was at Pinburgh this weekend, and I read this thread today.

Standard comet LEDs worked fine in all my controlled lamps and GI without modification. I just had to modify resistors for the flashers. I used the twin SMD ones if that helps.

#1701 6 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

That's odd because I have standard comet LEDs and even placing one in a controlled socket causes a dim flashing when off. I bought it with LEDs in the chest and had both those LEDs and the occasional incandescent with a weak but noticeable glow.

Interesting... wayout440 - any chance you did any modifications to the machine I bought from you to handle LEDs in the GI and controlled lamps?

1 month later
#1816 6 years ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Joined the club today.

Congrats!

#1819 6 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

...I will be changing to 5 balls, if I did I would sometimes get 3 extra balls making an 8 ball game, way too long for this era IMO.

I agree with this. Even without extra balls, pinbot can be a long game once you're used to it. I wouldn't want to play that many balls and would rather keep it at a more challenging 3. Would 5 (let alonealso roll over the score board too often?

2 months later
#1925 6 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

Joined the club today.

Congrats! Looks great.

1 week later
#1944 6 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Keep the mylar. Lose the yellow flipper bats.

my thoughts exactly.

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