Pinbot
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Joined the club last week! It's a player's condition Pinbot. Original mylar, rough but solid cab and head. Matching board numbers. Dirty. 100% led, broken vortex, few broken plastics. Fun Fun Fun. Good memories of stealing my money quarters after quarters... No more baby, I'm owning your ass!
Quoted from Scrooloose:She sold it while i was at work. I asked her to get it back and the argument went on for a while. I never did get it back or found out where it went. So if you live in the Hampton Roads area and picked up a PinBot machine in '98, I hope you enjoy it. I put a lot of work into it.
My new wife
That's fucked up. Not cool... Yet, if you put as much work on your wife as on your game you'd probably still have it. ; )
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey! Where can I find cool custom Pinbot instruction cards? Anyone have made then yet?
Found some!
Hey, I have a unseen before behaviour on my new Pinbot. When I shoot the visor the first time (not the skill shot) almost all the lights fill in and only a few remains unlight. Normally from previous Pinbot I played before, they should remain all unlight except a couple on the row I just hit.
Is this a game problem or a difficulty setting? Seen that before?
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey, I have a unseen before behaviour on my new Pinbot. When I shoot the visor the first time (not the skill shot) almost all the lights fill in and only a few remains unlight. Normally from previous Pinbot I played before, they should remain all unlight except a couple on the row I just hit.
Is this a game problem or a difficulty setting? Seen that before?
Anyone's Pinbot play this way?
Outlane drain = Pinbot. Pinbot = Outlane drain. Why would you want to change that? The beauty of Pinbot is having a super long ball time like outlane drain was not a thing. You really feel you are owning the machine those times. Next ball, you get immediate drain... That's Pinbot... 
Just my 2 cents, you guys do whatever And I agree, outlane drains are frustrating!
I'm having pinball party at my place next week and looking forward to see how Pinbot will own my guest's asses! I'm sure pretty bad
Quoted from spiroagnew:I did a CPR swap and put in the repro vortex ramp (which fit like sh*t
Got a new vortex ramp last week from PPS, going to install during my rebuild later this winter.
I do expect the need to fiddle with it and grind some of the plastic to have the metal flap sit flat on the PF. Looking forward to it, any tips?
Quoted from floyd1977:They are all sold out everywhere I have looked. CPR has said they have done their last run. I have a wanted ad for $200 but no bites.
I mean Pinbot is a very popular game, 12000 units+. I doubt it's going to be their last run since I'm sure there are still a lot of Pinbot out there that need new plastics.
Don't you guys think?
Quoted from RCA1:Also possible that the switch simply has not been activated long enough that the game thinks there is a problem
Yeah, most likely it only needs an adjustment.
Quoted from erak:No offence to anyone in this post. When putting Leds in pinbot. Why do most people put all red and all blue? The part that bugs me the most is the slingshot white flipper fingers.
Personally they should be white.
You still get the red/blue but with proper light and the white flipper fingers on the plastics stand out.
Here's my pinbot Led scheme. Some added under the command plastics and a added spotlight. But otherwise mostly red /blue.
Same goes with the backglass.
Oh gosh I like that better!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Hey gang, I just looked at the CPR site to check on a preorder status, and they have full plastic sets for Pinbot IN STOCK again!
Ordered! Thanks for the tip.
Throwing it up there, see if someone has a Pinbot for parts perhaps.
I need the visor adjustment bracket.
36085d0141ace92a1dbf443e0b5bb9f85af84479_(resized).jpg
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/34851
Please help!
GB
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Who knows? My machine did not have one when I bought it.
Mine does not have one as well. The visor gets down all the way. A previous owner added a shim on top of teh visor so it sit flush with the PF when down. It works but not great.
I'm about to restore it so I'd like to fix that.
Quoted from scottmaggie:Found a translite!
Still need:
1. vortex ramp
2. the typical top left plastic that everyone needs
3. the 2 outlane plastics (the guys in the space ships)
4. topper
I bought a set of new plastic and my outlanes spaceship are still in perfect shape. I might part from them if needed.
Also, PPS had vortex in stock not too long ago. I picked one up then.
Quoted from JoshODBrown:Noticed this morning that my right eyeball bulbs under the visor are stuck on all the time now, left eye is functioning ok it seems. Any pointers on what I should look at first?
Sounds like a common issue since both my outhole red plastic are melted on mine.
Quoted from henrydwh:Anybody ever order red and blue bands for their pinbot? I was wanting to do this for my pinbot, but I can't seem to find anybody that has a set of red and blue bands! Ideas?
I'm sure someone can grab a picture of their setup. I got that setup, I can take a picture tonight if you like. (though my game is in restoration so the playfield is sitting vertical on the floor. It should still give an idea
Pinbot restoration underway!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway
Quoted from henrydwh:Ok, forgive my ignorance, but I have a adjust left lane switch 10 on my pinbot. I am new to system 11, but on my system 7 Laser Cue the lane change is a leaf switch on the flipper leaf switch! This is not the case on the pin pinbot. Where is this damn switch????
1st response gets to be post 1000!!!
It's on the flipper mech.
Quoted from Milltown:I'm going to pick up a pinbot tonight.. I love this game... anything that's a common issue I should look for ?
Outlane drainage fest. Very common
Quoted from Plumonium:Outlane drainage fest. Very common
Seriously, visor not getting up/down in proper position is probably the biggest issue around. Would need adjustment.
Quoted from Milltown:Any idea what led bulbs will replace the 28v flashers in the eyes ect.. 2 under playfeild and for under the visor..
I was told not to replace those with led as they will burn unless you do some diode modifications.
Quoted from wayout440:Yeah, lube is a no-no. Dust sticks to anything moist, and shortly you will be looking at cleaning and reapplying - over and over frequently. Replace the nylon bushing. Should shoot smooth and fast, if it doesn't you have a problem with your shooter rod/housing. Pinbot should only require about half a pull to get it in the 100K hole, full plunges slam the top, resulting in the all-too-common broken vortex top over time. I had repaired mine using Steve Channels method http://www.stevechannel.com/pinbot.htm
I'll be putting a low tension spirng in mine so a full plunge only gets you to the top but barely. Friends and visitors too often just full plunge and slam the vortex. It's already broken but will put in a new one soon.
Quoted from paynemic:Do you not have a sleeve in yours? Maybe I need to just buy a new shooter housing. It's the only part I haven't replaced.
What sleeve you guys talking about? Any picture of that piece (Marco)
Edit: This guy I figured. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7357
I guess mine was broken cause I only have the sleeve tip around the shaft, sleeve was gone I think. Still it worked great...
Pinbot skill shot is one of the best in pinball. Add the multiplier on good games and its makes it more interesting than the jackpot.
but yeah I guess it kills it when it's constantly inconsistent It's a skill shot not a luck shot.
I'm currently restoring my Pinbot and my thread does not get a lot of love so here it is:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway
I'd love to get feedback and some tips as I move forward. Cheers!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:An incandescent 89 bulb wont last forever, but the Comet LED's seem to handle the voltage range very well, I havn't lost one yet. They do only flash quickly and not constantly, nor are they ever lit constantly on. Until one burns out or a problem arises, i'm sticking with them!
Mine were LEDs but the eject hole covers were melted down as well so may be there was once a problem where the lights were staying lit. Actually now I think about it, I'm pretty sure there is an occurrence where they stay lit. They flashes when the visor opens but then there is a moment where they stay lit right?
I'm re-building my pop bumpers and wondering about which color I should choose for the skirts. Factory is blue but it goes against the left/blue right/red theme. Red would be too much red may be. I'm thinking white.
Any of you used a different color for skirts and have pictures or thoughts about it?
Quoted from tilted81:So because mines all torn apart I tried this w/ some 12v led flashers and the sockets next to the eyeballs stay lit until you lock the second ball... in less than 10 seconds the leds started smoking! I quickly pulled em out and they were pretty warm! I do not reccomend putting leds in the 1251 spots unless they are rated
Amen
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I believe I used 2 orange and 1 red to match the graphics under them.
Any chance you can snap a picture of it? I'd like to see.
A see in the gallery that someone did it using black skirts and I think it contrasts well and looks bad ass.
Quoted from jibmums:Yikers! Please tell us how you managed that level of destruction, so those if us with replacement mini-pf's can avoid it.
What are we looking at here?
Quoted from wayout440:Mine had some of those cracks in the Mimi post mounting holes, I just assumed it was from age.
Yeah, I'm wondering if the posts will cover the damage anyway. It's a pretty clear mini with the art intact imho.
Got a question about Pinbot flashers. Not the eyes flashers, the other playfield flashers.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flasher-bulb-question
Any info appreciated.
How many of you removed the factory mylar on your Pinbot? How did it go? How was the playfield prior. Most importantly, how much ART/paint came off?
Did you paint touch-up afterwards or left as-is?
I'm almost done with my PF tear down and now wondering about the mylar. Do or not not, there is no try... The rest of the game is going through a full restoration btw.
Quoted from Jason1413:Fixed it and game fired right up.
Nice catch, well done!
Funny you guys say that because my Pinbot came with the red/blue theme going (a classic) but I'm considering to go back to white for GI to brighten up the game. May be leave a couple colored for show but only a few. I know for example that I want both slingshot lower bulbs to be white to match the plastic above it. It was discussed before, images can be found.
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:Plus you can actually see the art on the playfield plastics
Yes indeed.
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:Does anyone have an extra ADV "X" sticker left from a playfield redo?
Yes please, if someone as a file I'll print my own.
Please PM. Thanks!
Quoted from SteveNZ:joined the club! Picked up Pinbot a couple of days ago and just working out the minor problems that it has.
Welcome to the club! Pinbot is a classic.
Quoted from SteveNZ:So first newbie Pinbot owner questions:
Yes the planets should advance when you drop the 3 targets within the time limit which is 7 sec by default once you dropped the first target.
To light the advance target on the right, you need to ride the left inlane.
Enjoy!
That fuse is a mod right? The bulletproofing method recommended by Vid? If so, he suggests an 8 amp fast blow if I remember correctly.
The rack of 4 fuses above the 2 bridge rectifiers are 5 amps slow blow I think.
I am talking about those 2 fuses in the pulletproofing method:
https://images.pinside.com/a/8f/a8fd539bbc3817a478b0cb053bc5e153a6071bce/resized/large/a8fd539bbc3817a478b0cb053bc5e153a6071bce.jpg
Quoted from wayout440:No, the line fuse at the power switch is not a mod. The anti-fire bridge mods that your speaking of are in the backbox. All three of these fuse values should be 8A SB.
Reading back the question you are totally right, sorry for the confusion. Wrong fuse
Quoted from goingincirclez:But mine are labeled to be 1251 bulbs, not 89. I think my manual says this as well. Was a change made at some point?
To reiterate what been said a hundred times before: do not use #89 in there, they will melt your scoop plastic and burn in no time. They need to be #1251 (28v).
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Has anyone done this? Thoughts?
I'm currently going through this process on mine. What am doing is replacing the arm link (plunger), flipper bushing, coil stop and adding a custom made bracket to be able to use/attach a newer style return spring.
I am keeping my coil as they are still working but replacing the EOS switches since they get the most abuse. The change lane switches get cleaned and re-used.
So I get the feel of new style flippers.
I'll post very soon in my restoration thread and upload some pictures of the whole thing
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Has anyone done this? Thoughts?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/2#post-3471166
Picture 5-6-7. In the last picture, you can see the bracket I'm talking about at the bottom left corner.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Does anyone have experience getting this to sit properly?
My experience with the vortex documented here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/2#post-3430763
Quoted from RCA1:Don't forget the swearing. That's a big part of the process.
That's funny
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Is the tumbler worth the investment?
I feel I got my money's worth on that single restoration. It's like magic. You don't want to polish every little pin and washers... you could but you don't want to.
Worth mention that I clean and de-grease the parts before: Throw everything in a container, spray purple power, shake, fill with water, stir, rinse and dry before putting in the tumbler. Otherwise, you'll get your media freaking dirty in no time.
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:Great feedback. What tumbler did you end up getting?
The cheap one from amazon.
Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-Ez Case Tumbler
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I may be in a minority here, but I personally don't know that it's a significant difference really.
I agree, freshly rebuilt flippers plays very nice no matter what style they are. Might as well go with newer style spring my thinking is. I use shorter 12111 coil stop for longer travel, that is it.
Quoted from Insane:For Reference, Here is the ink I sent to FiatRUs, its a 600DPI scan.
Nice, very generous of you. Thanks buddy!
Quoted from Plumonium:About those decals, anyone who bought a set would be willing to spare his "Adv X" decal? That's the only one I need.
Thanks!
-G
Mine's gone and I might redo the ramp as part of my restoration. So anyone wanting to be part of it will get a big shout out!
Very interesting. I did not know that about that piece of metal. It's not factory but rather something they added after, probably sent to the distributors and operators to install at their will as so few games still have this bracket.
The Pinbot flyer images do not have it.
Quoted from Chnillapoil:I have a latch on mine ans quite sure it was factory....
Quoted from Insane:The one I did had a latch as well. Looked like it as there from the beginning.
Funny, I asked a well known restorer an he said there were none factory and I should not install one.
Quoted from jibmums:why add holes to the cabinet?
Exactly.
Quoted from TZpinboter:Pinbot bulb question, question 1 1251 bulbs or 89 question 2 89 or 1251 bulbs, see photo
All 1251
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Mine was missing as well when I got my shuttle. I ended up making one out of a sawed off, drilled Simpson strong tie bracket. It has worked perfectly for the past two years.
I'd really really like to get an original. Please help!
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Whew! 31 pages of this great thread takes a while to get through. I'm now in the club (woot!).
Congrats buddy, nice cleaning job!
Now, wanna sell me your visor bracket? Just kidding
My game is currently in full restoration if you've seen my thread so I'm in no rush in finding the part. But hell I would be happy to find one before I put everything back together.
Quoted from Chnillapoil:Better make it yourself and look for an original later....Allentown ?
By all mean, if one of you fellow Pinsiders find one at Allentown, drop me a line, heck grab it and I'll buy it right back I swear.
Quoted from wizard_mode:Looks sweet! You doing 2PAC?
Actually, now I'm just sealing the colors with light coats of acrylic lacquer (thus the roughness). Will do the final clear with 2pac in my shed when temperature warms up.
Quoted from Plumonium:Anyone here parting or has parted a Pinbot with some left overs?
I'm looking for this visor bracket. Please help me!
Here, I'll sweeten the deal: I got a new set of plastics waiting for me but only bought it to replace one or two. I'll have my original in excellent shape available to anyone who can help with this.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Has anyone come up with a good way to limit the amount that the shooter rod can be pulled back? My original vortex tamp is unbroken and I would like to "beginner proof" the shooter to keep it that way.
The solution is a softer spring.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Which spring do you recommend?
Pinbot, from the factory, used 10-148-3, blue.
10-148 spring-shooter black .031
10-148-1 spring-shooter silver .035
10-148-2 spring-shooter red .042
10-148-3 spring-shooter blue .038
10-148-4 spring-shooter green .033
10-148-6 spring-shooter brown .026
10-148-7 spring-shooter white .028
Quoted from Chnillapoil:Wow you lucky guy !!!!
Yeah he's a great guy, a fellow Canuck and I appreciate!
Quoted from wizard_mode:I'd say it depends on the quality of the restoration job on the PF. 2PAC CC? New plastics? Id' say $1600 as a shot in the dark with the info you provided. If it is a low quality PF touch job with rattle can CC then $1400
A restored playfield and cab (if done properly with stencils and such will bring more than 1600 these days. Restoring the pf should means a lot of new hardware as well so I'm guessing it's a nice one. I'm kind of wondering why you are rating the game a 8.5 with those 2 items checked from the list. Vortex and plastics are easy fixes and available.
I'm kinda biased since I'm restoring mine and I know that I would be laughed at if I was pricing it for sale.
In Canada, a player's condition will got for around 2000 CAN now. Thats about 1500 usd.
Put in 1000$ in new parts and material, 200hrs of spare time over a year and you got a 4000$ Pinbot. 3000usd. At least. But then you have a one of a kind.
Quoted from RCA1:The set that works great for Pinbot is the blue/red combo.
This is personal taste. I much prefer the original orange look over the pimped out combo.
Quoted from Zukboy2002:Can someone please put up a pic of the shooter lane switch under the playfield. Thanks
Hope it helps, let me see if I have a better one.
Quoted from TZpinboter:Are my eyes playing tricks on me?
Perhaps
Quoted from BeatBachs:I've been looking for a replacement visor plastic for a while now, and about to give up and try and make my own but finding a decent scan of the artwork is proving equally as difficult...anyone have any leads?
I have a new set of plastic waiting for me once I get there in my restoration. I can scan it for you this week. Sounds good?
Quoted from Rasavage:I think you'd be a thread hero. I feel let I've been waiting for a repro set for ages.
I got mine about a year ago. Drop a line at Kevin@CPR see if he has a few left hidden somewhere. You might get lucky.
In the meatime, for the craftsman out there:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zh4ueu40n2qjf7q/AAD5yxWAQEnoFGZMGRyX_BOpa?dl=0
These are OK scans at best but as reference or archive they will probably work.
(sorry I did not remove the protective film on them yet, thus the blurry edges)
Quoted from TnJHead:I have a request, does anyone have a picture they can post of the ball gate at the end of the shooter lane? Mine has never lined up right, and I can't find a clear shot of one on the web. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from dudah:I usually trace them in Illustrator, but Pierre brings up a good point. Certainly will try to just print it out and see how good it looks. From where the plastic sits the difference between an image and a vector one will likely be negligible.
As long as the lines are sharp and color bright
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thinking about it more, it's possible that the lines might be blurry and need to be traced since the protective film was still on them when they were scanned. Certainly the colors (including black and white) would be adversely affected by the film. I would wait until Plumonium is ready to install his plastics. Maybe he will rescan them for you without the protective film at that point? Then the job becomes really easy.
I feel the pressure here 
I'll just go ahead and remove the film and scan it again. I should be able to wrap it back up for protection. Stay tuned...
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Thinking about it more, it's possible that the lines might be blurry and need to be traced since the protective film was still on them when they were scanned. Certainly the colors (including black and white) would be adversely affected by the film. I would wait until Plumonium is ready to install his plastics. Maybe he will rescan them for you without the protective film at that point? Then the job becomes really easy.
Here, as good as it gets with my 15 years old scanner:
A photoshop savvy should be able to clean it up.
Quoted from dudah:Anybody have any cool instruction cards to share?
I have the factory ones in there to give it that "vintage" feel, but really I'm a sucker for these cool modern ones.
I use these
Quoted from calico1997:Currently on Ebay.
Buy a set, sell each as a piece, profit...
Buy yourself a set, take what you need and sell the other at $10-15 a piece to fellow Pinsiders would be a better strategy imho. You'll cover your cost, help out others and have a few spare by the end of it.
Quoted from Theviolinman:Can anyone tell me what a full set of replacement plastics sells for? I just bought one and was curious if I had done ok.
I think from CPR is was 139usd plus shipping.
Quoted from jmountjoy111:Before and after! This thing plays super fast.
Nice transformation! It was dirty as hell but in overall great shape! Nice job!
Quoted from jmountjoy111:Speaking of pinbot. I have an issue with the voice and sounds. The music is loud but the speech and sound effects are almost nonexistent. I adjusted the pot N the board to no avail. I have a new set of ROMs on order. Anyone have any other ideas
I remember someone having the same issue before, search through the thread or on the forum, you'll find it.
Quoted from neshy:multiple columns seem to activate.
Had a similar issue with my game when I first got it.
The previous owner had replace some of the targets and did a poor job.
The targets are wired in a daisy chain fashion and some wires had broken loose. During gameplay, probably to compensate the non working targets, hitting some targets would light a bunch of other columns, filling the chest grid anyway. Sounds like a failsafe built into the game so it's playable when if a target is not registering.
Take off your target bank assembly off (sorry) and look at the daisy chain. See what you find.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Did you notice that it isn't zip tied to the harness. The operator was in a hurry to go home.
Removed the wire, found the problem was not on the left side. Un-did all 3 hot wires from right side. Solder them back on one by one and testing amp each time. Found nothing. That wire was the culprit. Go figure... All good we have light.
Can someone confirm the look and wiring on the snubber board at the bottom right of there cabinet. Not the very last (which is GI relay) but the other one on top of it.
Mine look like this. C-11232
Might as well. I'm done with my Pinbot restoration.
Restoration thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway
Final update:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/4#post-4005594
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:It goes on the mini playfield, near the bottom.
Oh I see.... how could I miss it.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:What did you do to make your ramp glow like that?
12v Led strips. It makes a world of difference and makes the back of the game pop imho.
Quoted from PapaJohn:or are lightly dim when they shouldn't be on
Perhaps simply ghosting. Are you running regular LEDs?
Quoted from wizard_mode:Balls keep getting trapped under the ramp.
On mine, the ramp only goes down after the ball hits a switch anywhere else on the playfield (guaranteeing the ball is out). Not as soon a energy value expires.
Quoted from wizard_mode:With the correct blue spring you can still get all the way to the top past the top hole. But, the ball merely taps the top of the ramp instead of ramming it like a battering ram blasting the plastic to bits!
I concur, blue spring is the way to go.
Quoted from chaskett:Anyone have a list of brand and out of the box paint colors for touch ups that match well? I found the below in a google search from butterflygirl24 listing the following:
I have done a couple Pin*Bot PFs.... the colors I used are Americana
acrylics...
Red= True Red
Orange= Tangelo
Blue=Calypso
light gray (locks)= sky gray and or slate gray (depending your
particular PF and if you are painting the entire area, or just trying
to match for a small spot)
Dark blue=True Blue
Dark Gray=Neutral gray
Yellow=Yellow Light (Bright yellow is very close, and I have been
having a hard time finding yellow light...)
No way you can match (spot fix) out of the bottle. Some colors will be OK to paint a whole area out of the bottle without poeple noticing.
Quoted from Aniraf:Lastly the cabinet on this one has been damaged by someone who thought the legs should be screwed on as tight as possible.
Man, your cabinet is in great shape. Bright colors, nor much scratches. Leg damage is typical and nothing to call home about.
Quoted from Aniraf:I would say the most major issue is the bubbling in the Mylar and the inserts which are lifting up.
Again, your game is in very good shape.
I documented my restoration and talked a bit about mylar removal process. Starting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/2#post-3507038
Quoted from Aniraf:Nice! You think this is better than the vid method of flour and alcohol?
You'll still need to use flour and alcohol to remove the glue after you froze and pulled off the mylar. It's a 2 steps process.
Quoted from dontfeed:All I recommend is you follow up on the info I directed you to so that you can make an informed and comfortable decision.
Try this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club
+1
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It may be possible to clean it up with retro bright.
As far as I know, retro-bright is to make things white again. Because it's dipped in Peroxide and shined with UV. I would not try on the blue ramp.
Quoted from chaskett:To follow up on this... i got the Jackbot plastic yesterday
Well done!
Quoted from henrydwh:Looks like it cleaned up real nice!
All it's missing is flipper bands!
Quoted from CollinT:Looks great plumonium
Did you leave any of the blue or red? Looks like most is switched out in the pic
No more red and blue in the GI. Just Sunlight white. Except the red LED strip in the shooter lane and Blue strip in the ramp subway.
Same with the backbox. All white except a few matching color accent.
Quoted from statictrance:Any chance you can talk about that Blue Strip in the ramp a little more? That looks sick from this angle and definitely something I'd look into.
I wish I had better picture to show the actual strips. They are about 14" Red and 20 " blue 12v LED strips glued to the side of the shoother lane and on the inside (front side) of the blue ramp. They do not interfere with the ball nor getting the ball hang up in the blue ramp. They are connected together and plugged to the service outlet using and 12v adapter.
Quoted from CthulhuTilted:As far as I can tell...that's Classic Pinbot!
Indeed!
Quoted from chaskett:plumonium has an excellently detailed blog of his pinbot restore. It was invaluable to me as i worked through issues on mine. Scroll to the bottom and keep clicking "older entries" to start at the first entry, read the whole damn thing, and you will be Pinbot expert.
http://www.enteryourinitials.com/category/pinball/pinbot-williams-1985/
Me and enteryourinitials are 2 different dudes. Still a lot of good ressources in his blog. Cheers!
Quoted from chaskett:Somehow i had it locked in my head this was you! Now i am questioning my own reality... c'est ne pas une pipe.
hehe!
Quoted from RipleYYY:about the ADV. X sticker, which is the correct font to use ?
If that the same as all other Pinbot fonts, that would be: (at least that is what I used to redo some lettering)
AmerType Md BT (AMERICAN TYPEWRITER BOLD BT.TTF)
https://www.dafontfree.net/freefonts-amertype-md-bt-f63160.htm
You might need to play with the spacing as I did.
Quoted from Rat:Does anyone use these on pinbot? red or clear? new caps or not? are they good?
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624
I use something similar. Not the same brand but the same idea. with red caps though. And black skirt.
6b14c9b7c7fecafec56ba4edb588e981ca81dca9.jpg
Used these 555 base wired socket:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8776-1
Quoted from gweempose:Where did you acquire those bottom two plastics on your upper playfield? Those obviously aren't original.
Yeah they are, it's just the reflection from the backglass.
That's what a shiny game does.
Quoted from kciaccio:I am re-doing the stencil on the front of Pinbot around the coin door.
Does anybody know the paint codes for the yellow and red on the cabinet?
Thanks,
If only redoing the front, you gonna have a hard time matching whatever cors you have left on the sides and head.
A few of us just used painter's touch red and yellow.
The factory red was more orangey for sure.
Quoted from kciaccio:This one for the red?[quoted image]
I'm not sure actually. I have left over at home I should check both colors for you.
Should end up looking like this:
IMG_3469 (resized).JPG
Do you plan on re-doing the black as well?
Quoted from kciaccio:Do you an on re-doing the black as well?
Yep.
Great. Good luck sir.
Quoted from kciaccio:Thanks.
If you find out your colors that would be awesome. I love the way yours turned out.
Quoted from chaosrooster:Has anyone out there heard of this one? I've had an issue with my Pinbot from the day I've owned it where every now and then the pop bumpers going off will activate the clear lift ramp to raise for no reason. Usually when this happens hitting any other switch in the game will activate the ramp again lowering it back down. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure this isn't part of the game's rules, any idea how to fix it?
Last night I finally managed to reach the sun and hit the special. I'd never done it before, what an awesome feeling! Rolling over the score seems like a distant dream lol. My top score is 5.6 mil.
See if this helps. Shorted or bad wiring issue on the same column
Again, sounds like wrong wiring or short on this column. Especially if you rebuilt the pops. Follow the circuit carefully and verify how each switch is wired.
Does all the switches on this column works in test mode? When the left pop switch do not work, what is the position of the lift ramp or visor?
This might help you track it down.
Quoted from RichWolfson:I teach all my "kids" not only how to start a game
Now try to teach them how to start only ONE game. That's a whole another ball game, at least for me!
Quoted from mof:I only recently discovered that Pinbot is a great game
yes sir!
Quoted from Aniraf:What about this bizarre “post” I have to the left of the robot? As you can see, it is actually a screw wrapped in tape.
What is this supposed to be? I assume that is not a factory thing?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from topkat:Does anyone know what post that is in the picture that I am missing I went through the manual and swear they don’t label that post. The one I ordered is too large a screw for that space ?
If someone has extra I’d buy it even used
Thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
6-32, https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4195
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-restoration-underway/page/3#post-3927245
Quoted from topkat:Guess I orderd the wrong one again.
Any idea if this is a part that does come back in stock?
May be check other suppliers.
Quoted from topkat:Found one somewhere else. Bought a few to try to justify shipping
Thanks
I was going to suggest checking what size t-nut you had underneath. In case someone at some point replaced the 6-32 by a 8-32.
I think it was originally a 6-32 t-nut because it was so close from the edge of the playfield visor gap.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Hey guys, need a little help here. I am in the process of trying to get my Pinbot into somewhat playable condition. The post circled below from a reference photo is missing on my machine. I know I need the red star plastic piece but I have no idea what metal post goes there. The post looks like it supports the lower left side of the upper playfield. Can someone clue me in on what part I need to order??
I am also missing the wireform tunnel that leads from the upper playfield to the right flipper. Any ideas on where to source one of those?
Much thanks.
[quoted image]
I have this setup for the post you are looking for.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:That’s a fantastic photo for me to use as a reference, thanks so much!
You got it buddy.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Question on the shooter lane gate. Mine seems to be slowing the ball down a lot when it goes through it. I am wondering if there are supposed to be washers underneath it to raise it up a little more or do I bend the wire gate somehow to lessen the tension??
That's how I have it setup. No washer underneath. Make sure the wire form opens enough, bend the leg as needed.
7d8fd11a2ab5eb82ba5d1cf775bef26cc3c4f09b.jpgQuoted from PantherCityPins:Can someone do me a favor and post a picture of your back box hinges and how they mount? My machine is missing the hinges and I bought a set off eBay that said they were off a PinBot but the holes do not match up with what is on my back box. I'm stumped. Thanks!
Quoted from topkat:Has anyone run into the top of the moving target not being level?previous owner used black tape to level.
The frame looks intact. I haven’t investigated the bracket arm yet..[quoted image]
Make sure you have this piece and adjust the screws underneath on each side. Mine was missing the bracket and I had to chase it down.
As a side note, a previous owner also glued a shim on top of the target bank to level it off...
Quoted from JFink8222:Bottom populated. Playfield set in. Now time to repopulate the top! The end is near!
[quoted image][quoted image]
New pop bodies would been nice! Still, looks clean man!
Talking Capacitors,
What if a game (Pinbot) was working fine for 3-4 games and then out of the sudden some coils would start to be weak. Not able to fully actuate (ex: Raise drop targets). Different coils.
Let the game sit one day and things get back to normal.
Any clue? A particular set capacitors? Some faulty bridge rectifiers?
Quoted from cngizbleevng:I'd like to get your opinion on whether it's worth having both Pinbot and Bride of Pinbot. I currently have Pinbot and I love the 'fembot' theme of Bride, but is the game significantly different that owning both is not redundant? Jackbot looks just like pinbot, so I'm not thinking about getting one of those.
Opinions please?
I long time had BOP on my wish list as well. Not that much nowdays. I'd rather have something more different.
It's a great game still!
Quoted from Bublehead:Risk reward... Sun only lights adv planet for special so you can use the planets to get a free game (miss the special and drain and it goes away, so risk) or use the planet bonus to help you get free game via replay score. Reward for getting as close as possible to sun without reaching it.
I think I set me Sun to extra ball. I could not care less about an extra credit
Quoted from Bublehead:When I turn on unlimited extra balls, Pinbot becomes the unending game from hell. Thats why I keep him at factory reset adjustments, so turning him over is harder. My best game with unlimited EB’s was an unending 50 million plus game that I had to just walk away from. Thats a 5x turnover. That is how dangerous extra balls are on Pinbot. I only need 5 good balls on pinbot to turn him over. My Wife had me set him to 5 ball play for her, and he became a 9999999 high score table idiot. 5 balls with factory extra balls = turn me over.
Fair enough.
For me, rarely I'll go for the planets. If I happens to get a few, I'll try hard to get to Jupiter (EB). Then if I feel like it's going well I'll try and go for the Sun (EB). It will rarely happen on the same ball as I don't go for it. I never go for Sun.
Quoted from FelixTCat:On the back of the cabinet, right below the headbox latch.
I don't believe Pinbot should have a latch from factory.
Quoted from Metzu:hi guys can anybody help me to see if this pinbot they are offering me has a working multiball?i have a video of it
Sure, post the video to youtube and send the link!
Quoted from chaskett:I don't remember giving anyone permission to print my mask baffle other than shapeways. I don't think pinball life would be too keen on people printing their mouth baffle either.
People can craft their own mods as they want. What's the harm here?
Worst case I'll just measure and print a few different ones. A friend offered his 3D printer for my pinball needs.
But if someone was to share the 3D plans even better. I don't plan on selling nor giving away the parts but the plans I could not care less.
There used to be a chest grid decal with protective film for sale. That would probably be your best option.
Like this
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Pictures?
This.
Problem with mine though, on the left side , the guide sticks too far left and the ball cannot go UP the inlane up to the switch because it's hitting the wireform dividing the left outlane/inlane. See picture.
A bit annoying but hey...
And old guide mashed up
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from mof:Can you take two more photos?
1. directly above the frame and the flipper "hinge" so we can see that the frame is just above the height of the flipper
2. ball guide centered with frame end in bottom part of pic, so we can see how far away the guide is from lining up with the end of the frame
I'll go look at mine to compare.
For great Williams pinball ball action, it is essential that the ball can moonwalk easily, which requires:
A. alignment (your problem)
B. switch height being just right
Ill try to get pictures.
Both frames are identical so I doubt Cliffy sent me the wrong thing. It was not doing that prior to by restoration tough...
Quoted from Blackbeard:My cliffy doesn’t do that plutonium
Do you have the enhanced version?
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Montreal, QC
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