Hello all,
Recently purchased PINBOT. I am somewhat new to this hobby but not shy from doing work and electronics etc.
I've been going over this threads many pages...

I have some questions:

1) Firstly the back box has 1 speaker and 1 tweeter right? (this is how they come stock right?) Any suggested speaker upgrades? (sound seems great as is, but wanted to know what others suggest) What about the cabinet speaker, should that be upgraded? I've read that speaker upgrades in general doen make that much difference (but maybe that was an old post)?

2) I currently have LEDs under plastics only and back box (bought like this). I want to switch to good LEDs under the playfield to make this pin really pop. Should I just be using regular comet LEDs? Can this be done without any further modifications (e.g adding further circuit upgrades to be able to use LEDs) etc?

3) I was thinking of also switching to LED flashers, I am aware that there needs to be a modification to the resistors to remove the warm up voltage. But, is switching to LED flashers recommended/worth it?

4) I am looking to do some lighting modification/upgrades. Particular the interactive Pinduino lighting ramp and adding interactive under cabinet/behind back box LEDs. Any recommendations for this (or against this)? I have no problem doing the electrical hook up etc myself if needed (and if its the cheaper option vrs a plug in kit etc).

5) Any other modifications or upgrades suggested? I seen there is a different ROM with different rules, any details on this? what about the Pinbot light mask?

6) My drop target solenoid system seems to be struggling to reset/raise targets - Any common reasons for this?

Thanks in advance fellow Insiders.

Thanks for your reply and info.
I had in fact seen your mods previously, very interesting, especially the ramp to the left flipper.

...So a few follow up questions then:

1) Regarding the topper, you said you changed to LEDs (and removed warming resistors) I get that, but you also said you changed the circuit, what do you mean by that?

2) Yeah I am tempted to change to LED flashers on the PF (under the orange cups) but I also like the slow fade in/out etc...so the LEDs don't do that eh, they just flash on right away? Id have to see some videos for comparison - do you know if any vids where the pinbot flashers are LEDs? I suppose there can be a different effect watching video version vrs real life (and vid might give appearance of slower turning on, when in fact they don't appear like that in real life) . What about the Flashers under the PF, I think there are some in between the pop bumpers, did you keep that as bulbs? or these are not flashers? Is the lighting under the sun flashers?

3) So do you have LEDs under playfield or bulbs?

4) Mine has LEDs in the pop bumpers, do they typically have bulbs at all in the pop bumpers? From the manual it does not show any lamps in them.

5) Yes I am interested in the PEMBOT ROM, sorry but Newb question, how is exactly that ROM changed? is there a connection to the board and software used?

6) IF I get the Pinduino light mod, I too would likely follow you and revise the code to reduce the lighting effect. AND would like to add second strip as well perhaps - what exactly did you do with the second strip and the topper? Can you show a vid of this?

7) What about lighting mods under the cabinet or back of box, recommend any? I've been paying with some cheap ones that flash according to the sound, but these are independently powered etc (just trials for now) but I like the effect.

No speaker/sound upgrades or mods required for this pin really? Do you too have only one speaker and a tweeter in the back box?

Thanks for the tips on the drop down target issues, I'll look into that and try to resolve this. (Seems to work on lifting one or two, but three it cant seem to handle)

I find that lighting mods/enhancements for this PIN work well and fit the theme and current lighting show it has, and adding lighting mods aren't overkill...so I am willing to explore this.

Thanks as well for your feedback...so your PF flashers were changed to LEDs eh?

Thanks, started to read now...

I also will likely do the lighting mod under the ramp...great work there too.

Thanks, I agree, amazing game as is...not looking for mods to just enjoy, more to take it to another level....ultimately I will likely go through with some mods for now (e.g PEMBOT, ramps lights, LEDs on PF), and investigate others (that's why I'm looking to see if there are videos of them) I'm not sure on converting PF flashers to LEDs yet...likely start with just the LEDs in topper for now.

Hard to find the right chasing LED strip now, cause all of them use remote apps etc. lol

Can anyone kindly direct me to a purchase/info link of what hardware and software (and chips to buy) I then would need to write/erase ROMs into new chips?
...to upload new PEMBOT rom/code to a new ROM chip and install new ROM chip to my board.

Much appreciated.

Thank very much for that info and referrals, even better that they burn the roms and send the chips.

For sure the original white flippers...I don't like the solid blue at all....

All,
is it still recommended to add fuses on the bridge rectifiers in the back box?

Thanks,

Which lamps are the "feature" lamps? under playfield or above?

I'm looking to do LED conversion on my recently acquired PINBOT, it has LEDs above playfield (except the flashers) and on back box (except flashers here too), but I want to add LEDs to underplayfield, flashers and topper flashers...been reading up on this (I know I would need to disconnect warming resistors for LED flashers)....but I'm not sure if I should be using LEDs with bulb top or flexible type for under playfield particularly for replacing the horizontal mounted lamps.

Yeah, I hear you about the flashers being too bright but I'd like to try for myself, but at minimum the topper I will convert to LED flashers. What types of LEDs did you use under the playfield?

All,
Regarding adding fuses for the bridge rectifiers:

So the fix is to add two 8A slow blo fuses? or one of them is 2.5A? As I'm reading/seeing different info out there.
Thanks in advance.

Notice not many PIN*BOTs with cabinet leg protectors, I was thinking of adding yellow ones to mine, and suggestions?

Looks like I will need to remove/separate the back box of my PIN*BOT to get it down the stairs to my basement.

I know this is not the best course of action. Other than taking lots of good pics of wire harnesses, connecting points etc...and proper labeling, is there anything else I need to do or watch out for?

Thanks in advance,

Hello All...im trying to remove my ROMs to install PEMBOT ROMs... I tried to remove my current ROM circuit boards and they're not budging...im worried I might crack or damage something...any recommendations or suggestions to remove the circuit boards?

Thanks in advance

Yes I know its in a socket...im trying to lift in between the two...yes I tried a small flat ahead...but I wasnt really trying two sides bit a t a time...ill try that...so no special tools required? Just noticed the whole pcb board was flexing as I was pulling.

Ok I just got the switch done...booted up but getting an "adust failure"...
Sorry I've tried researching and not sure what I did wrong. I didn't remove back up battery I have before the switch (I have watch battery board upgrade) ...which is what I thought I read (afterwards) one person told someone to do. I now recall reading some kind of reset is needed?...but can't seem to find official install guide though...I did remove the battery and put it back but no change BUT maybe battery needs to be removed while roms are out of socket? Hope not cause I hate removing and installing these chips.

Can anyone let me know, would be much appreciated.

Its ok, got it now...did a boot up with coin door open then closed and seems ok now.
Thanks

Ok good to know...that microchip switch out was nerve wrecking!...wasn't easy alining in the microchip prongs to install them in either....jeesh...plus also needed a good amount of force to push them in, and couldn't use prying technique to help like i was able to use pulling them out.
Glad I dont need to go through that again (I know they sell the special socket add ons with levers too)
Was worth it just for ball save feature alone in PEMBOT though, as after I tested it.

Thanks again for the insight.

All,
My (recently purchased) PIN*BOT's knocker doesnt strike when a match is made, the knocker works (on test etc), is it because its on free play? And the match sequence seems to work etc (topper lights flash etc)
I've looked through the manual, other than turning the match feature on or off (it is ON), doesn't seem to be anywhere where I can manually prevent the knocker from activating on match or not.

Any advice, I would much prefer to hear the sound, whether or free paly or not.

Thanks,

One other question...

My ramp enter switch (switch 40) was not registering, after some trouble shooting seems like it is the resistor between two contacts - Ive bypassed the resistor for now and wanted to know:

-What is the resistor there for anyway? I notice almost all electrical components under the playfield have em.

-What risk is there to run the switch without one?

-Any one know the resistor value to replace it? is it listed in manual?

Thanks

Ah ok, I understand now, one way voltage switch. ok
Ill replace this asap...do you happen to know what type of diodes are used on the flippers? I'm getting flickering on some LED flashers, I believe the flipper diode needs to be replaced?

I'll check manual too...

Thanks!

Ah yes ok thanks for that.

So can anyone confirm why my knocker doesn't hit when a match is made? is it cause its in free play? Cause I'm using PEMBOT? the knocker works for all tests etc.

much appreciated,
thanks,

Yes, I noted yesterday that the knocker did in fact work on replay score achieved. I'm still left wondering if the knocker not actuating on a match is a symptom of PEM*BOT or free play setting?

Anyone else can confirm?

Ah ok thanks for confirming and letting us know. There was another issue I experienced with getting a high score, that I ended up having to reset the machine. I thought I read about that on another post or thread, but I recall it was about the music (not playing?) for reaching new high score, whereas the music played for my instance, but some other issues arose. I can PM you with more details.

Regards,

Can anyone confirm which ceramic resistors are for front left and right flashers? I recently changed ALL flashers to LEDs, and find these front two just too bright, so looking to switch ONLY these (#1 & 2 in pic) back to 89 flasher Bulbs if possible- and obviously only want to reconnect the ceramic resistors for only these flashers, or are the resistors shared with other flashers? if so which ones?

I would think the ceramic resistors are either in board A or B in this pic.

Thanks in advance for help.

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20230213_135331 (resized).jpg

Well perhaps you misunderstood or I am misunderstanding you...I have disconnected the warming resistors when I changed to LED flashers...but I did all of them as I converted to all LED flashers. But now I want to revert back bulbs on only front flashers of playfield...and reconnect the warming resistors for now these 89 bulbs...Im not looking to replace the resistors.

Not quite...yes the two eyes on the back box...but also, in total, 6 bulbs are 1251 (28v) under the visor; not just 2...4 are accessed from top, 2 are under playfiled and light up the saucer plates.

Let me know if you want further details.

Yes sounds right...basicly all bulbs to do with the eyes, both playfield and back box...rest are 89s...yeah I have same incorrect label, I recall reading a post here that there was in fact a service bulletin issued from Williams (back in the day) to correct that.

I see...
You don't think the 89 bulbs last longer and display better with warming resistors?

Ok, Ill give it a try, since I am trying to reduce the flashing anyway (as the warming resistors are also there to help them act more like a flash from my understanding)
If I do want to revert back to having the warming resistors working, do you happen to know which ones are for those flashers and if the same resistors are also used for other flashes?

Thanks again.

Also,

I'm experiencing flickering from LED flashers' when the right flipper is activated. I've research this, and replaced the right flipper diode last night BUT it is still occurring. Any suggestions? I've looked at he flipper buttons and don't see diodes though (but there are capacitors).

I've read this (But don't know if it applies to PIN*BOT):

"The trickier problem is when putting flashlamps into games that had the Aux power driver board (again starting with Big Guns ). On those games if you put LED flashlamps into circuits #3, 4, 6 or 7, those flashlamps will go off anytime you hit the flippers or any other 50 V coils. On those circuits you would need to cut diodes 3,4,6 and 7 off the aux driver board and then install diodes on coils #3,4, 6 and 7."

from this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

Yes the previous owner added a new power supply.

Can anyone suggest troubleshooting steps to help determine why LED flashers are flickering when right flippers are used, even after I replaced flipper diode.

I ran into a similar issue recently and this is what I ended up doing to correct it. In my case when I had removed the upper visor plate cover ( with the decal of the animation control bridge etc overhead) i did not put back two small black spacers (see pics) in between the cover and the base part- without the spacers the visor, when it lifts, does not travel fully up (as the now slightly lower cover stops it just a bit) SINCE the moving visor is tied to the target bank movement via swivel brackets and all move together, in my case, the slightly limited final moment of the visor stopped the target bank from fully traveling below the playfield.

Again...this SEEMED to be what fixed my issue...so at minimum check that ur spacers are in and if the visor is actually the reason the target bank is not dropping fully...

Let me know...

20230221_155702 (resized).jpg

20230221_155806 (resized).jpg

Can anyone confirm if - On the back box multi colored section/strip that lights up when pinbot speaks (under the visor )- the two outer lights (yellow on our left and red on our right) actually come on when the speech is done? doesn't look like it does, BUT it did seem like it did when it was speaking late game?
I recently added light masks and notice that these lights don't make it on (again other than late game instances unless I could be wrong)?

I should remove the translate to check, just haven't done so and I'm really curious to know if anyone can confirm....or is it cause the speech or certain words don't last long enough to lite the outter two bulbs? While other speech does?

Thanks,

yes... thanks for confirming...I had a bulb out.

Can anyone tell me if (and how) the ball eject trajectory can be adjusted for the left ball elect hole beside the visor? although my pin needs to be leveled a bit, it usually drains just to the right middle and usually un-savable.

I've played the virtual pinball of this game and it ejects on a good angle to the sides of the entrance to this hole and bounces nicely back to flippers etc - is this the "normal" way the ball should typically travel?

Thanks,

Ok, thanks for suggestions, definitely no missing parts or rubbers, the actuator itself is not adjustable and the saucer plate base has a small slot for the actuating arm so that would need to move anyway - so best option would be to try to adjust the angled metal piece above, but needs to remove ramp and plastics to get that that.
I'll let you know how that worked out.

Thanks,

I see, I will need to look closer, I did notice there was two actuators arms/eject mechanisms if I am not mistaken, one shorter than the other, is that what you are referring to? I thought the smaller one was to dampen the shock to the ball or something. I wonder why it has two...for this purpose or another reason?

I did originally try to bend that (longer) actuating arm but didn't seem like it was moving and seemed like I would break something instead. I think in the manual it shows these arms can be adjusted (and seemed like they meant to bend them too) , but for the ball launch system. That's where I got the idea to try to bend it as well at this ball capture/eject one.

...and so would you say not to bother trying to change the direction of the angled metal bracket above the hole?

OK, but just to clarify the eject hole I'm talking about is not the eyes, its the one outside and to the left of the visor - I'm sure doesn't make difference but just incase wanted to clarify that.

ok, so you would suggest to just do this, not try to bend ejector arm(s)?

Ok thank for the suggestions here, but I am not experiencing neither of those issues, my issue is that the ball is ejected in a straight trajectory down to drain in between flippers.

Ah ok, good idea never thought of that - Ill give that a try first.
Do you happen to know why there are to eject arms btw?

Yes you are right...I looked over this assembly again and realized that there is only really one ejector arm and other seems to be like a shock absorber of some kind as I had originally thought.

But I am happy to report that I did adjust it at the base screws as suggested and was Indeed able to have ball now eject properly where it now does bounce off to right and ultimately comes down to either right flipper or right sling (not draining down the middle)...which is much, much better than before....would give me anxiety when the ball got elected lol.

Thank you all for the help...now I can play this machine properly, especially given that I have the PEMBOT patch and that hole is fairly important in the rule set.

Thanks.

Any idea what could have caused a high score reboot/reset after an issue and power restart requried? I was playing and locked a second ball in the right eye socket, but nothing happened, waited to see if it would execute ball find, but it didn't, and then noticed flippers were not responding either...turned off the machine and it had a few switch errors messages on boot up AND high scores were wiped/reset. And then after some testing etc, seems no issue with switches and warnings went away.

I am also running PEMBOT fyi.

Similar issues happened before (but not frequent), where the machine needed to be turned off as if it was stuck.

Also (if not above issues) check the rubber along the inner right side of the playfield, where the ball travels upwards before entering the ramp, IF its off placement or rubber is too slack etc from say loose post, the ball will rub with the rubber and slow down, but still stay on trajectory.

Looking for help as well, my GI right side (red) does not come on, but comes on in certain time in attract mode (but seems more dim). Also weirdly the flippers actuate too (when buttons are pressed) in certain times in attract mode. Note I am running PEMBOT ROM.

I also have new power supply previous owner installed.

I've started to take a look at fuses...but:

Is there a particular fuse that I should test? when I test fuses, the ohms seems to fluctuate should I be getting stable readings?
what other trouble shooting steps should I use for this issue?

FYI: I've had some fairly infrequent issues where the game needs to be reset as well, and it actually lost high scores stored, and I do get flickering to 28 v LED flashers when I press the right flipper.
I did change the diode on the flipper a while back, but just yesterday realized that there are two diodes, one on the switches and contacts and one off the coil it self (where as I did only the switch one), so I'll likely do the coil ones too now.
SO there may be something inherently wrong that may have caused the GI to get like this?

Thanks in advance

Thank you very much for this...

quick question, the diode off the flipper coil has thin gauge coil winding wiring connected to/soldered to the contacts with the wires etc too - do you know if this small gauge coil wiring can take the heating etc to remove the diode, as the diode terminals seemed wrapped around the points and soldered well - may need some serious work to de-solder and remove diode - I am almost tempted to just cut the diode off (leave terminal ends soldered on) and solder new one on (instead of trying to remove the whole diode as risk damaging these coil wires.

Yes ok that's what I thought, thanks again.

I'll take a look at the relay for the GI issue as you suggested and report back.

cheers.

IF there is a low voltage value/issue on the CPU board - what is the cause and fix?

Ok thank you.
P.S. when you say bad chip on CPU, any chip or a certain one is likely the usual cause?

Hey Many Quarters, why is there a bride of Pinbot head/acrylic piece it seems above the visor?

Can anyone post a few pics/angles of the switches under the back ramp, particularly the first one (enter ramp switch) ..want to compare mine (and diode wiring etc) to another one. Thanks.

Thanks for the pics.

Very cool...don't u have it replicate the bb voice lights as well?

Yes I agree, the switch bank top looks a little too low on the right side, this is creating a "pocket" where the ball gets stuck. Don't go too high though or the ball will not travel properly in to the socket holes.

Ya I just found out about these last week.

Looking for help.

My outhole (ball drain) doesn't register the ball sometimes.

I did a switch test and seems fine.
I replaced the diode just in case.

Switch itself seems ok and clicks.

Tested switch with a ball to make sure ball actually actuated switch and that seems ok.

Still not registering sometimes.

Should I be now looking at connections in back box?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

I discovered that there is a certain condition created (maybe from another issue) that is present when the outhole lane switch does not register.

Seems like either when the left flipper is sometimes actuated or the ramp switches (not sure which one yet) are actuated, it gets into a certain condition where two topper(LED Towers) flashers are constantly on (and sound effects of thunder when exiting ramp onto upper playfield, are NOT on)...it is in this condition when the outhole/drain switch is not registering. I also added by pass wires for this switch and when it was not registering I tried to close circuit and nothing happened- so its not the switch itself.

I also had to replace a diode in back box pinbot speak yellow light...this fix fixed that lamp issue.

So I am wondering if this is a diode issue somewhere...

I'll need to research the WP 11 switch matrix thing too.

Looks like the culprit was the blasted diodes, both on the left flipper and on the enter ramp switch.
Thats been the source if most of my issues on this machines, the diodes.

Is there any reason they go other than age? Cause the enter ramp switch diode was actually replaced half a year ago, but I did make a wiring issue mix up and had wires wrong way around...ended up blowing a few fuses cause of that. Could that had affected this new diodes life span too?