'Bout time!
(Topic ID: 70838)
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Pinbot
Williams, 1986
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5 years later
Quoted from FelixTCat:Why do I have a black vortex ?
[quoted image]
Holy shit!! That’s a Proto pinbot!!!
Rare, rare find. Think Willy Wonka and golden ticket.
Anyone looking to leave the club? (Temporarily) of course. Been in twice and looking to get back.
Pinbot seem to be the one pin that is hard enough and punishing enough to draw you back. It’s brilliant in design.
Looking to buy.
Looking to get back into the club.
If anyone is selling within a few hours drive from Erie Pa OR Buffalo NY, let me know.
OR if anyone is coming to Pinfest with one.
WTB.
2 weeks later
My visor does the same, which I know isn't correct. It should open once after grid is completed. I know it's fix is something to do with the two switches under the mech. Just haven't had time to tinker.
SIDE NOTE: most of these system 11s have horrid ball hop from inlane to flipper. Anyone try out Cliffy's new inlane guides designed to help this issue??
Quoted from idealjoker:In my case, the issue was that the actuator arm of one of the visor switches was bent and blocked travel of the visor mech in one direction. This type of motor starts in an arbitrary direction and simply changes direction when travel in one sense is blocked. So whenever the motor started in the "good" direction, everything worked as it should, i.e. the visor opened and stopped. When the motor started in the opposite direction, on the other hand, the bent actuator eventually blocked travel (when the visor was open), which made the motor change direction, first closing the visor and then opening it.
Bending the actuator arm of the switch was all I had to do to fix the problem. It took me several attempts to get the mech to work reliably, but I have not had a single issue with the visor since.
Nice explanation as I'm dealing with this now. Someone (maybe you?) had posted a video on here showing the nob of the spinning motor hitting the switch actuator arm, stopping, and going the other direction. I'm assuming the motor is very touchy?
Anyway, I'm guessing you just bent that activator arm up just a tad so the motor could run under it and activate it?
Thanks.
I unscrewed my motor assembly last night and watched it work. The switches are perfect (unbent and aligned) and they test fine. However, the visor will still open more than once unnecessarily.
Somewhat stuck.
Quoted from Zukram:You tested the switches manually ? Can you tell if the assembly is worn or depresses the arms on the switches far enough to close the contacts inside ?
I did test them manually. They look and act perfect.
The only thing I noticed, and wondering now if it may be the issue, is one of the yellow motor wires is worn down a bit. Wonder if this would cause this specific issue?
Guys just installed Cliffys inlane guides. They’re kick ass!
Eliminated the ball hop from inlane to flipper.
Recommended!!
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Pictures?
They look like the originals but a few millimeters thicker.
Recommend if you have annoying ball hop.
Quoted from Plumonium:Do you have the enhanced version?
Must be. I think the packaging said that.
These are a must have I believe.
Having a weird issue:
Once in awhile, the music isn’t on during ball 1, just sounds. However, it’ll come on for ball 2 and 3. I wait for the “bong” upon startup too.
Any ideas? Anyone have this issue? My taxi does it sometimes too.
Quoted from dmcinnes:My Pinbot has a similar problem, turned out the -12v on the power supply was low, around -10v, which can cause resets on the sound board. It needs to be higher than 10.5.
I was able to fix the problem by replacing the capacitors on the power supply as they were original and dried out.
Thanks.
Wonder if I can swap
My taxi power supply to test.
3 weeks later
Anyone ever have issue with the ball triggering the second switch on the ramp? (The one right before the ball enters the bagatelle)
When it doesn’t hit this switch, you don’t get the jackpot!
I tried adjusting it, but it’s the type you can’t really adjust bc both ends of the switch are under the ramp.
Any thoughts?
Quoted from idealjoker:You need to remove the ramp...
Annnnnd? Cmon. You’re teasing me.
1 week later
Quoted from mark532011:Hey guys, got a question. I'm looking at a possible pinbot purchase. Sadly its sight unseen from overseas as part of a container buy. No pictures, description says "topper broken to the half , cabinet ruined one side . playfield ok . Not work , to check , boards seems good but was stopped a lot of years"
Price is going to be around $1000 with shipping.
Seems kind of high for a sight-unseen pinbot that probably won't work but on the other hand pins are getting tough to find. What do you think?
There are sooo many pinbots out there.
I'd CERTAINLY pass.
2 weeks later
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is your A/C relay, not a GI relay.
Blackbeard has a snubber relay in place of the A/C relay, the lower pic is the GI relay.
Is there something wrong w this?
Quoted from GRUMPY:No, not a problem if the cap is installed reversed. But the cap and resistor are not needed.
I’m all belts and suspenders over here Grumpy.
1 week later
Quoted from GRUMPY:???
If it was me I would just cut off the cap. It's not needed in this case.
Does it do any damage? Only thing I could think of is leakage>
Quoted from GRUMPY:The leakage is just as bad as battery leakage.
Any idea why someone would put that on here if it's not factory??
Quoted from GRUMPY:Because they didn't have an A/C relay and they know a snubber relay will work. Snubber relays were more prevalent on some machines like F-14.
Would there be any benefit to me switching it out for an ac?
1 month later
Quoted from Tomass:Has anyone actually gotten to the sun with the game setup normally (tilt, pitch, 3 balls) and all? Seems like an epic feat.
Not once. Hard as hell.
2 weeks later
Guys: i purchased big daddy's power supply cap kit to rebuild power supply.
I have the caps, but no info on what cap goes where. The manual is a bit difficult to figure out which caps go where.
Is there a listing of what cap (ex. C10) goes with what size capacitor?
Grumpy: it looks like some
Of the caps on my ps are new. Is there a way to test them? I’d rather not replace them if not needed.
Guys, after work I'm going to rebuild the ps board with new caps.
As I'm using pinscore displays, I'd rather NOT replace the caps associated with the displays.
Which caps are these? Where on the ps are they?
So I changed out the caps on the power supply I could. I got that large one in the middle, and a couple smaller ones. C10 and C8 I believe I got.
One or two of the caps on the board already had NO + or - signs on them, AND the board itself didn't as well. One of the caps was even marked on the board with both sides as + !!
SO I left those two alone.
Played a few games without issue. My issues prior were on occasion the sound would hang on a note, and once in awhile there would be a reset. I think changing out that large C10, along with C8 helped smooth out the 5v line, which may have corrected the issue I was having.
Time will tell. Thanks to Grumpy for the help!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Picture please.
Second pic: two pos symbols on both front and back of board.
First pic: no symbols on cap (silver cap, upper right in pic) or board.
5300DA05-DD3E-4D6D-8B41-432C2D279361 (resized).pngE4103FF8-0019-4EE5-9231-5B2C11C08642 (resized).png
Clearly, one the cap with the 2 pos. markings, I could've just looked at the cap already installed and follow it. But I figured I'd just leave it as it didn't look ancient. Weird though with 2 pos markings on board sides of board.
GRUMPY:
No, in the first pic, I am talking about the little silver cap. NOT the high voltage ones.
The silver cap had no markings on it, nor did the board.
Quoted from gutz:Once that silver cap is removed, you will see the + or - marks.
It does look old.
Any idea what would be malfunctioning if it were failing?
Quoted from GRUMPY:This for the 5 volts and should be replaced. You will see the plus mark when removed, and it is also marked on the other side of the board.
Defintely isn't marked on the back of board.
I'll remove the cap and hopefully the symbols are under it.
Thanks guys!
The marking must be under it then.
I looked very carefully ON and all around the cap, and nothing. And def nothing on the back of the board.
Rules question:
I’m noticing that my skill shot isn’t multiplying by whatever ball number I’m on.
Ex. On ball 3, shouldn’t skill shot be multiplied by 3?
Mine isnt doing this. Or maybe I’m wrong and it isn’t multiplied by which ball is in play?
Guys I need to order some
White gi bulbs from comet today. I HATE the red/blue ones in there now.
Which ones look good? Frosted?
4 weeks later
Quoted from Strummy:Suggestions on this would be appreciated
How’s your ps cap situation?
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from spblat:Is it normal for the game to fire the knocker several times when announcing problems (“check switch xyz” etc.) at boot?
Yes.
1 week later
2 months later
Anyone see the recent pinbot listed? Absurd pricing.
Look at coin door and bonus multiplier decals.
Some people are crazzzzy....
Quoted from Jmckune:If it’s towards the top it’s been re listed. I saw it the first time several weeks ago when it was posted and thought to myself, wow it does look good. But there’s not a Pinbot in existence that’s going to fetch near that much.
You gotta zoom in on the pics. The bonus multiplier decals are all messed up. And theres wear all over.
For that price you'd think you'd at least have a repro pf.
What a joke.
SIDE NOTE: how you liking that taxi? LOVE mine.
Quoted from Daditude:It is incredibly nice
I disagree.
If you look at the pf up close you’ll see wear. And those multiplier decals. Ugh
It’s a 2500 pinbot tops.
1 month later
Quoted from phalcon_2600:Has anyone ever changed out all the mini posts on the mini playfeild to metal? How did you like it? Got any pics?
Not sure why you’d want to.
Quoted from ss-pinball:I'm thinking that it wouldn't suck to join the club...I've rarely seen projects.
What are the game-specific things to look out for on this pin?
I think the biggest thing for me is a blown out light grid. Although, there is a pretty nice decal available.
Make sure the visor functions properly. Other than that, not much to it. Check ramp flap works as it should.
Quoted from cshelden:Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane
Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.
All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.
Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.
Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.
I'm stumped.
Did you test q44?
1 month later
3 months later
Quoted from MasterBlaster:Power supply is original
Have the caps been changed out?
Quoted from RichWolfson:If those caps are original then they are 35 years old at this point. Caps and the high voltage section are easy to do and you should consider it as if there is any wavering of the voltages you get where you are.
I am no expert but I do know capacitors can't be good after 35 years.
///Rich
Get a big daddy power supply cap kit. Takes literally a half hour to change them all out. There’s only like 8 or so.
1 month later
Pinbot is the one game that seems finicky with sound and call outs.
It’s a complex system using both the sound board and the cpu
I rebuilt both the power supply and sound board w new caps and so far so good.
4 weeks later
Quoted from CashMoney:Yes, for the PF I was just going to replace the white GI with Red/Blue.
The pinbot i bought has this set up. Red/blue on each side. I hate it.
When i eventually shop it, i'll go back to white in the gi. I feel like with the red/blue its too dark.
1 year later
I just wanna reach the Sun to being able to say i've done so. And here the cool music and light show.
3 weeks later
Hey guys, i'm at work wondering about the GI on pinbot.
Prior owner has the all red all blue on the sides, and i loathe it.
I want to redo it, but wondering if i have to pull the plastics on top, OR, hopefully, the sockets/bulbs can be changed from below by just unscrewing the sockets and changing.
Anyone know?
Quoted from jibmums:My playfield just happens to be up, so I thought I'd take a look. Appears that most/all of the GI sockets are the kind that staple to the underside of the pf, so yeah, you're shit outta luck, gonna have to pull the plastics.
Kinda thought so. Blah.
Thanks for checking!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Cariba:Hello All...im trying to remove my ROMs to install PEMBOT ROMs... I tried to remove my current ROM circuit boards and they're not budging...im worried I might crack or damage something...any recommendations or suggestions to remove the circuit boards?
Thanks in advance
I like to use a tiny watch screwdriver flat head for these. Pry one side, then the other.
NOTE: make sure your screwdriver is under the rom and NOT also the socket.
Hmmm. Is that maybe your issue? You’re trying to pry off the chip but you’re prying under the socket accidentally? The rom chip is inserted into a socket. They pancake each other.
I sent both my cpu and sound board to Clive.
Pinbot is notorious for sound/music issues. And they’re difficult to track down.
1 month later
Debating the red/blue translucent ramp if it’s still available.
Can anyone tell me the hardware that needs to be switched over? Like any riveting?
3 weeks later
Rules question:
Been playing pinbot a lot lately and wondering if the bonus multiplier will apply to the jackpot if won?
Anyone know?
4 months later
Weird pinbot issue:
When i open the coin door, the ball trough kicker repeatedly fires. Odd thing is, that even when i push closed the white security button for the door (with door still open), the kicker still goes off until the door is actually shut.
Anyone?
Can someone give me the correct fuse values for the power supply? Manual is confusing and not so clear.
Quoted from Vin-bot:There should b a instruction decal above the power board, telling you what fuses to use.
Also loot at this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-fans-and-owners-club?tq=Power+supply+fuse&tu=
Thanks. I'll go with the card above the power supply. I seemed to have lost power to all coils except special solenoids.
Oh, and when i open my coin door realllly wide, it triggers the vortex ramp's 5,000 points! What the hell?!
Quoted from gutz:Vortex 5k and high score reset (on the test switch bracket) are on the same switch row. Something is shorting out/rubbing/touching on the coin door possibly.
Bingo.
The prior owner installed lighted flipper buttons which were tied into the 5v gi in that area.
Looks like those wires (for the flipped button lights) are tied up tight with zip ties together with other wiring. But I can manually trigger that 5000pt switch by just pressing in that area.
And you’re correct. I keep losing my high scores.
My upper left flasher is out.
I tried twisting off the transparent cover, but it doesn't spin.
Please tell me i don't have to remove a bunch of plastics to change this bulb...
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:We wont
The left flashers don't sync with the other flashers. They are independent, I think tied with the drops and or the target under the ramp.
Hmm. Maybe it's not burned out. I just noticed in attract it seemed out.
I'll check diagnostics.
1 week later
Quoted from TronGuy:The more I raise the target, the worse the ball stuckedness gets. Maybe it's because of the wear?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe you need to incline it more. Less flat means less chance of hang up.
Quoted from TronGuy:Ok in business. For the record, the pinballlife spring is worthless, it's 1/2 the tension or spring life it needs. So I used the old one.
[quoted image]
Sure you have the correct shooter rod? That definitely doesn't look correct. And that's likely why the spring isn't working as intended.
Quoted from TronGuy:Whats correct? I bought a new shooter rod.
yeah and now I know that there are varying spring levels of spring.
It barely makes it to 100,000 hole at launch. Once I level the machine it may make it easier.
The shooter rod is different. Did you measure the length and make sure it’s same as the correct one?
Too long or too short will affect the spring and the vortex.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jibmums:I got mine a few years ago but they're available now from Comet Pinball.
https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/led-ocd-boards
Can you explain what it does? Curious.
Edit: Nevermind I checked the website
Run and extension cord and plug it into another outlet on a different circuit.
Wondering if your power is wonky.
3 months later
Guys looking to redo my gi in the pf. Currently it has that hideous blue/red gi scheme.
Looking at white for gi, but cool? Or sunlight?
Quoted from Skidave:I used Comet cool. Looked the best under the whites in plastics. Now I did also include some red and blue tastefully around the playfield too.
Thanks. The issue is that there are warm colors and cool colors on the pf. Reds and blues.
LIkely cool leds would work best..
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Natural white everywhere.
People should do whatever looks best to them, but in my experience the natural white bulbs allow the playfield colors and plastics colors to pop the best (pure white means full spectrum reflection, after all.)
I get where people like the “traditional” look (and particularly the slow fade vs. blinking if you do t shell out for an LED OCD board), but there was a while where I had a row of pins all of which had natural white LEDS except TOTAN, which still had incandescent bulbs, and it really looked kinda sad alongside all these bright, attractive machines. The classic Sterns and sys11s looked more inviting than Arabian Nights, which is the IT game for so many people!
Personally I also think space themed games just look “right” with natural bulbs. Other themes I can see the case for warm a bit more. But also in a row of machines, to my eye I’d rather they all have the same color temperature for their lighting. Just personal opinion; that’s the nice thing, it can always be changed to suit one’s preference!
When you say "natural white" do you mean incandescents?
Or are you meaning cool white leds?
1 month later
Quoted from kciaccio:Get the Pembot roms. You will thank me later.
Man. I love the original ruleset though.
Is there a link to how the code is different?
2 weeks later
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