Looks good!

If you have a wico coin door on your pinbot and you want some extra bling, member aztecf on the klov forums has reproduced the raised williams logo badge. Raised logo coin doors were used on many video arcade games and are highly sought after, but I don't think they were ever used on pinball machines? Two screws and two minutes to make the swap. (Please excuse the cosmetic condition of my coin door.)

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Link? I cant find the topic or that user.

Why? Mine looks just like it.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/raised-letter-door-tags-for-wico-coin-doors.442426/

Dunno if I've ever seen a Williams video game with a Wico coin door. Plenty of plain old Coinco stamped steel doors. Maybe they were on the mid 80's stuff since that's Pinbot era; I pretty much ignored the Williams vids after Joust 2 (1983) ...

Anyway, cool insert. I went the other direction and used a later Williams pinball door with the W logo between the coin slots.

Richard

Thank you!

Thanks, ordered me a Cinematronics cover!

Mine stick out slightly. They are used to align the flippers when tightening them down. You really don’t need them.

The roll pins are supposed to stay flush, you tap them up from the back when adjusting the at rest position on the flippers. Once you have the at rest position locked in, you tap them back down. Thats how they are supposed to work.

I don't think you're supposed to move or tap them at all. From what I've read, you insert a thin dowel or toothpick into them from topside, and your flippers rest against them as you tighten from beneath. See how in Vin-bot's photo a toothpick would rest right against the edge of the rubber. That's how I've always done it and it's always worked perfectly.

I‘ve never been real happy with the toothpick method. It seems to me the toothpicks have too much wiggle room so the flippers usually are not aligned well enough when I only use this method. I don’t stick anything in the holes and just use them as a guide to setting the flipper angle and visually make sure the two flippers line up. That being said I’ve never been sure if the holes are for lining up the flippers with or without rubber. I have never tried tapping these pieces up and down - might have to try that, but depending on how high up one taps them they would be touching the plastic flipper or the rubber.

Toothpick method doesn't work well IMO. They used the pins in the factory when I took a tour of Williams back in the day, So I use them the same way they did.

Yeah, people in a production environment aren't going to fool around with toothpicks. They're setting them up as quick as they can, and the pins up is the best way.

In home environment when you have time to play around, different story of course. I don't see any harm in leaving them up, if you want to do it that way.

My guess would be that in the factory they would install the flipper mechs and bats along with the other mechs and adjust the bats at that point with no rubber rings on the game yet, using the pins against the flipper plastic, then later the game gets rubbered.

Ive always been pretty happy with using the roll pin, I place a small drill bit through the roll pin and between the bat and the rubber. Sandwiching the drill bit between the rubber and bat holds the flipper in place pretty well while I tighten up the back side.

I couldn't tell you if this is the factory method or not. But I do it every time I do a flipper rebuild.

With aftermarket clear coat on my Pinbot playfield, there's no way I'm tapping those roll pins above the playfield surface. It's asking for trouble..

Richard

Wise move. I wouldn't tap them up either if I had CC on the pf. Mine is a factory mylared original, no issue there. I would caution remake pf owners as well.

BH

Here are 2 Pictures from my Pinbot.

Greetings from Germany
Jürgen

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Since the pop bumper lights are always on with the GI, I don't think it matters what wires you use as long as it is a GI string.

Remembered I never posted pictures after I installed the solid red High Speed caps. They have EVO BRITECAP LEDs underneath and look much better than the translucent caps I had before. Now the EVOS arent blinding anymore.

Before:
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After:
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Up next. Im going to swap out all of the Targets like I've seen a few in here do with these.

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I recently installed a new CPR plastics set. I'm not certain if the mini playfield is thicker than the original, but it sits flush on the pop bumper caps. It plays fine, but I can't even get the screw halfway on the left side down because of how it sits. I did recently do a Hardtop, but I don't think there is any impact on how the pop bumpers sit after the rebuild; but thought it's worth mentioning if I've overlooked something there. Anyone else have this happen/recommend a fix?

UPDATE, RESOLVED: I replaced the pop bumper bodies with new ones, which apparently are taller than the originals.

Indeed I will be more proactive. On the seller's site that shall remain nameless, the taller modern pop numbers have the same catalog part number and list as product compatible with Pinbot. I just went back and visited the site to double check, and they do have a disclaimer that the modern parts are taller than the original; don't remember seeing that when I bought them 6 months ago. Oh well, project time.

I'm having a minor but irritating problem with my PinBot. There are 4 flasher bulbs under the visor (two behind the visor and two under the kickout holes). During game play all 4 flashers operate normally and flash as they should when the visor is open. During attract mode however, when the visor opens only the two RIGHT side flashers flash. The two left side remain dark.

Can anyone please confirm if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my pin. Just watch the attract mode cycle and see if the left side visor flashers operate during attract mode.

If they do (which I assume they should), does anyone here know why the flashers would operate correctly during game play but fail during attract mode? I've referenced the manual but can't find anything pertaining to this.

Thanks!

Here is what happens when mine goes into attract mode and shows the rules for the visor. Otherwise mine shows no visor flashes whatsoever.

Did this help?

*Edit* that blue grid light was not out until I shot this video. How's that for odd coincidences?

Thank you! That is exactly what I wanted to know. On my machine during that exact same attract mode sequence the two LEFT bulbs under the visor do not light at all (and don't do the left-right-left-right etc. strobing), but during game play they work just fine. I have no idea why.

hello I need help, what are the measures of the elastic bands of the mini playfield?
Thank you

I think they are the same as Bride of Pinbot
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bop-clubnon-20/page/43#post-6097402

Looking for the part number for the multiplier lamp socket, its a tall three tab socket that's used all over.
Is there a list of all the sockets used ?

Thanks.

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html

Probably do the trick.

That's what I was guessing too.
Thanks for the input.

Just got a cool keychain for my keys. Anyone else see these yet??

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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2919322471657874/

Does anyone know where I can get a grid overlay?

This?
ebay.com link: itm

Can someone post a pic of the switches on the underside of the playfield for the Vortex ramp? I'm trying to figure out why the arms keep popping off.

Thanks.

Hopefully these might help.

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I’m having an issue with fuse F2 (4amp) on the power board. It blows as soon as the game starts up. I ran through a switch test and visually validated that nothing is locked on. I also do not see anything weird with the wiring or any obvious blown caps or anything. Does anyone have a suggestion I could chase down?

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Check for a shorted transistor.

I thought about the two old flasher bulbs I still had in there. I removed those, just wondering if something in that circuit was wonky. Now with those removed the fuse does not blow, but also none of the solenoids work (except flippers).

Are you thinking it would be a transistor on the power board? I cannot for the life of me remember how to test that board properly or the solenoid voltage coming out of it.

Got some leftover parts from my playfield swap if anyone is interested. Here are some pics of the bigger stuff.

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