(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

7 years ago


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  • 4,834 posts
  • 392 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by MoSeS_1592
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There are 4834 posts in this topic. You are on page 97 of 97.
#4801 39 days ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I will definitely post a couple pics once I get them installed, but here they are on the bench. I have a spare visor assembly so its not a rush for me to get it in. I'm waiting on the next batch of 2 tone ramps to get done being made so I can get that and the lift ramp freshened up. Mine work but definitely show their age. I have a new set of plastics and spiral ramp to install as well. I will be happy to share my progress once I've gotten further.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good!

1 week later
#4802 32 days ago

If you have a wico coin door on your pinbot and you want some extra bling, member aztecf on the klov forums has reproduced the raised williams logo badge. Raised logo coin doors were used on many video arcade games and are highly sought after, but I don't think they were ever used on pinball machines? Two screws and two minutes to make the swap. (Please excuse the cosmetic condition of my coin door.)

20210630_161608 (resized).jpg
#4803 32 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

If you have a wico coin door on your pinbot and you want some extra bling, member aztecf on the klov forums has reproduced the raised williams logo badge. Raised logo coin doors were used on many video arcade games and are highly sought after, but I don't think they were ever used on pinball machines? Two screws and two minutes to make the swap. (Please excuse the cosmetic condition of my coin door.)
[quoted image]

Link? I cant find the topic or that user.

#4804 32 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Please excuse the cosmetic condition of my coin door

Why? Mine looks just like it.

#4806 31 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

If you have a wico coin door on your pinbot and you want some extra bling, member aztecf on the klov forums has reproduced the raised williams logo badge. Raised logo coin doors were used on many video arcade games and are highly sought after, but I don't think they were ever used on pinball machines? Two screws and two minutes to make the swap. (Please excuse the cosmetic condition of my coin door.)
[quoted image]

Dunno if I've ever seen a Williams video game with a Wico coin door. Plenty of plain old Coinco stamped steel doors. Maybe they were on the mid 80's stuff since that's Pinbot era; I pretty much ignored the Williams vids after Joust 2 (1983) ...

Anyway, cool insert. I went the other direction and used a later Williams pinball door with the W logo between the coin slots.

Richard

#4808 31 days ago

Thanks, ordered me a Cinematronics cover!

#4809 30 days ago

Hi all,

Just wondering if someone can clarify this for me. Under each flipper bat there is a roll pin sticking out of the playfield on the back side..

I don’t see any function to them, except for maybe supporting the flipper bat when it’s in resting position on the topside of the playfield??

I removed them from my old playfield and I can’t recall if the roll pins are actually meant to go trough the full playfield to stick out on the front (art) side of the playfield. The pics I took are not really clear on that either

6458DAEA-E0F1-492B-AA87-C7F5D0AC947B (resized).jpeg
#4810 30 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Hi all,
Just wondering if someone can clarify this for me. Under each flipper bat there is a roll pin sticking out of the playfield on the back side..
I don’t see any function to them, except for maybe supporting the flipper bat when it’s in resting position on the topside of the playfield??
I removed them from my old playfield and I can’t recall if the roll pins are actually meant to go trough the full playfield to stick out on the front (art) side of the playfield. The pics I took are not really clear on that either[quoted image]

Mine stick out slightly. They are used to align the flippers when tightening them down. You really don’t need them.

#4811 30 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Mine stick out slightly. They are used to align the flippers when tightening them down. You really don’t need them.

Thanks for the info !!
I guess I won’t put them in on my new playfield then .

#4812 30 days ago

The roll pins are supposed to stay flush, you tap them up from the back when adjusting the at rest position on the flippers. Once you have the at rest position locked in, you tap them back down. Thats how they are supposed to work.

#4813 30 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

The roll pins are supposed to stay flush, you tap them up from the back when adjusting the at rest position on the flippers. Once you have the at rest position locked in, you tap them back down. Thats how they are supposed to work.

Good to know.. thanks mate !

#4814 28 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

The roll pins are supposed to stay flush, you tap them up from the back when adjusting the at rest position on the flippers. Once you have the at rest position locked in, you tap them back down. Thats how they are supposed to work.

I don't think you're supposed to move or tap them at all. From what I've read, you insert a thin dowel or toothpick into them from topside, and your flippers rest against them as you tighten from beneath. See how in Vin-bot's photo a toothpick would rest right against the edge of the rubber. That's how I've always done it and it's always worked perfectly.

#4815 27 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I don't think you're supposed to move or tap them at all. From what I've read, you insert a thin dowel or toothpick into them from topside, and your flippers rest against them as you tighten from beneath. See how in Vin-bot's photo a toothpick would rest right against the edge of the rubber. That's how I've always done it and it's always worked perfectly.

I‘ve never been real happy with the toothpick method. It seems to me the toothpicks have too much wiggle room so the flippers usually are not aligned well enough when I only use this method. I don’t stick anything in the holes and just use them as a guide to setting the flipper angle and visually make sure the two flippers line up. That being said I’ve never been sure if the holes are for lining up the flippers with or without rubber. I have never tried tapping these pieces up and down - might have to try that, but depending on how high up one taps them they would be touching the plastic flipper or the rubber.

#4816 27 days ago
Quoted from branlon8:

toothpick method

Toothpick method doesn't work well IMO. They used the pins in the factory when I took a tour of Williams back in the day, So I use them the same way they did.

#4817 27 days ago

Yeah, people in a production environment aren't going to fool around with toothpicks. They're setting them up as quick as they can, and the pins up is the best way.

In home environment when you have time to play around, different story of course. I don't see any harm in leaving them up, if you want to do it that way.

#4818 27 days ago

My guess would be that in the factory they would install the flipper mechs and bats along with the other mechs and adjust the bats at that point with no rubber rings on the game yet, using the pins against the flipper plastic, then later the game gets rubbered.

#4819 26 days ago

Ive always been pretty happy with using the roll pin, I place a small drill bit through the roll pin and between the bat and the rubber. Sandwiching the drill bit between the rubber and bat holds the flipper in place pretty well while I tighten up the back side.

I couldn't tell you if this is the factory method or not. But I do it every time I do a flipper rebuild.

#4820 26 days ago

With aftermarket clear coat on my Pinbot playfield, there's no way I'm tapping those roll pins above the playfield surface. It's asking for trouble..

Richard

#4821 25 days ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

With aftermarket clear coat on my Pinbot playfield, there's no way I'm tapping those roll pins above the playfield surface. It's asking for trouble..
Richard

Wise move. I wouldn't tap them up either if I had CC on the pf. Mine is a factory mylared original, no issue there. I would caution remake pf owners as well.

BH

#4822 25 days ago

the roll pins are too big for the pre drilled holes.. I also did not want to risk damaging the clear by drilling bigger holes. I pushed pop rivets up the holes.. they fit nice and snug.. I mounted the flippers and pulled the rivets back out..
That worked out to be perfect solution for me

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1 week later
#4823 17 days ago

Hi guys.. got a issue with the GI light wire and the middle pop bumper connection to it..

Can someone tell me where to solder the pop bumper light wire too..

I connected it to the nearest socket (I thought it was soldered to that on my old playfield before), but when I used a 9v battery to check if the lights work, all lights go on accept for this middle pop bumper.

I already replaced the socket in the bumper and checked it by connecting it stand alone and it works..

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#4824 17 days ago

Anyone ??

#4825 17 days ago

Here are 2 Pictures from my Pinbot.

Greetings from Germany
Jürgen

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#4826 13 days ago

Thanks RedFlash

This light of the middle bumper is soldered to the GI wire that goes around the lower pop bumper and energy value lights.. is this correct?

As I look at my old playfield it looks like this, but when I check the connection by putting a 9v battery on it, all lights for on except for this middle pop bumper..

It seems that there are 2 GI Wire loops in this area of the playfield and that the middle pop bumper is currently connected as a bridge between the 2 loops...

Is so odd.. then I connect the middle pop bumper to the GI wire that runs to the bottom pop bumper, then all lights will go on.. that’s a good thing, but it seems like it’s connected to the wrong wire. The other wires I see on the pics are connected the same as on my machine

Hopefully someone can explain or clarify this to me

#4827 13 days ago

Anyone, please?

#4828 11 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Anyone, please?

Since the pop bumper lights are always on with the GI, I don't think it matters what wires you use as long as it is a GI string.

#4829 11 days ago

Remembered I never posted pictures after I installed the solid red High Speed caps. They have EVO BRITECAP LEDs underneath and look much better than the translucent caps I had before. Now the EVOS arent blinding anymore.

Before:
SmartSelect_20210721-142418_Chrome (resized).jpg

After:
20210721_133231 (resized).jpg

Up next. Im going to swap out all of the Targets like I've seen a few in here do with these.

20210721_133121 (resized).jpg

#4830 11 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Since the pop bumper lights are always on with the GI, I don't think it matters what wires you use as long as it is a GI string.

Thanks ChrisPINk25 , I thought so too, but it’s good to hear the opinion of someone else

#4831 10 days ago

I recently installed a new CPR plastics set. I'm not certain if the mini playfield is thicker than the original, but it sits flush on the pop bumper caps. It plays fine, but I can't even get the screw halfway on the left side down because of how it sits. I did recently do a Hardtop, but I don't think there is any impact on how the pop bumpers sit after the rebuild; but thought it's worth mentioning if I've overlooked something there. Anyone else have this happen/recommend a fix?

UPDATE, RESOLVED: I replaced the pop bumper bodies with new ones, which apparently are taller than the originals.

#4832 10 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

I recently installed a new CPR plastics set. I'm not certain if the mini playfield is thicker than the original, but it sits flush on the pop bumper caps. It plays fine, but I can't even get the screw halfway on the left side down because of how it sits. I did recently do a Hardtop, but I don't think there is any impact on how the pop bumpers sit after the rebuild; but thought it's worth mentioning if I've overlooked something there. Anyone else have this happen/recommend a fix?
UPDATE, RESOLVED: I replaced the pop bumper bodies with new ones, which apparently are taller than the originals.

Have a look at the Williams blue book.. (on planetarypinball.com) it will show you almost parts and part numbers for Pinbot. This could help avoiding issues like this.

#4833 10 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Have a look at the Williams blue book.. (on planetarypinball.com) it will show you almost parts and part numbers for Pinbot. This could help avoiding issues like this.

Indeed I will be more proactive. On the seller's site that shall remain nameless, the taller modern pop numbers have the same catalog part number and list as product compatible with Pinbot. I just went back and visited the site to double check, and they do have a disclaimer that the modern parts are taller than the original; don't remember seeing that when I bought them 6 months ago. Oh well, project time.

1 week later
#4834 1 day ago

I'm having a minor but irritating problem with my PinBot. There are 4 flasher bulbs under the visor (two behind the visor and two under the kickout holes). During game play all 4 flashers operate normally and flash as they should when the visor is open. During attract mode however, when the visor opens only the two RIGHT side flashers flash. The two left side remain dark.

Can anyone please confirm if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my pin. Just watch the attract mode cycle and see if the left side visor flashers operate during attract mode.

If they do (which I assume they should), does anyone here know why the flashers would operate correctly during game play but fail during attract mode? I've referenced the manual but can't find anything pertaining to this.

Thanks!

There are 4834 posts in this topic. You are on page 97 of 97.

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