Bought one for a Jackbot,can barely tell the difference. There is some slight modification that needs to be done.

Thats very helpful thanks! That is the plastic I was talking about. Can anybody help me with some targets? My green rectangle target is cracked. Id love to buy a new or gently used set if possible. Anybody got some targets or the target plastics they wanna part with?

I bought a complete NOS set of these targets from a place in Vancouver (or was it Victoria?) BC, Canada early this year. They were sold individually and were ~$10 US each. I'm looking thru my bookmarks and emails, but can't find the source ... I'll post a follow-up when I do.

Wasn't able to find them by searching for PinBot parts, but did a search for the part number identified in my Owner's Manual. I spent multiple evenings searching until I found this parts seller.

I would be happy to pay for new. It would be excellent if you could let me know where that is thank you!

after 15-20 minutes digging thru my parts references, all I could find listed in available inventory is the orange (amber) SW-1A-163-4 from Flippers.com (p/n A-11315-4)

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=A-11315

Looks like my order from Feb 2021 was quite timely.

Here's a collage from the Owner's Manual with the switch locations and part number

PinBot visor switches (resized).png

These and the standup bank targets are the hardest parts to find... besides maybe the lift ramp. I was happy mine are all in one piece, knock wood.

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

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Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.

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Yes, that was previously an issue, but I cut the bolt for clearance. It seems to be a matter of a millimeter or two on the solenoid plunger pushing back up to get the ramp to lay flush. Someone suggested double springing the solenoid, so I may try that

you have to bend the upper metal spring steel a bit down. Be careful not to kink it.

Documentation, pics are good, but to be 100% honest almost none of it is necessary. All the playfield swaps I've done, there's enough memory in the wiring harness that almost all of the components end up very near where they should go. The only thing I've ever taken tons of pics of and relied on them for component placement is top side assembly when shopping out really complex pins (Demo Man for example was a real bastard.)

Pinbot playfield swap was cake. My experience, anyway. Knocked it out in one evening laid out on cardboard on my spare room floor.

Richard

That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

This would make the ramp become a ski jump!!

I bent mine on a cylinder and no jump at all. I said to bend gently.
Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

I guess if you're bending down to make up for ramp not going low enough it would be different. Bending it the other way causes the ski jump effect.

The ramp gets out of adjustment from worn parts usually, or binding in the coil area.

I just explained the adjustment in detail. Move the position of the nut in the slot on the arm. The ramp will fall into position, but it’s unlikely to do that first try. I had this exact issue when rebuilding mine, had to tweak the nut adjustment, and have had to do it in the past when I replaced the transition flap. It seems like it isn’t going to work, and then it works. PinBot has been around for 35 years, the ramp weighs enough to come to rest on the playfield.

The main issue is that the threaded-on-one-side rod on that mechanism drags against the cutout of the metal sidewall between it and the ramp. Provided that the ramp isn’t dragging against the side of either ball guide (it has to be “centered” in order to drop freely; you can adjust that at the legs that straddle the “collect energy bonus” lane), the primary trouble spot is that little rod dragging against the slot in that metal partition. Free it up from that and all will be well.

Additional note: I switched to a whole new assembly made my @freeplay40, and had a bear of a time with it. No shade on Freeplay’s work at all - it’s just a lot of parts that have to align just so, and a tiny bit “off” in one direction or the other can throw it out of whack. I think I needed up embiggenong the holes where those legs attach to the playfield, to avoid having to redo the riveting. It was majorly fussy but eventually went together properly. There’s just a *lot* going on in that intersection, the whitewood process on that must’ve taken a few tries.

Much thanks! Yes, I noticed a substantial difference in the gap after a playfield rebuild, so this makes complete sense that I looked past the needed adjustment. And yes, that bolt has been sliced!

Not perfect, but 80-90% better. Another Pinside miracle, thank you

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Hi Pin_Bot fans recently I sold my other pinball and left my Pin_Bot on it's own, it will only be for awhile before my new JP Prem arrives.

Anyway Pin_Bot has been fine for years but now has got lonely and is pining and playing up.

The score displays developed an intermittent problem (see pic below) and sometimes show lighted segments that should not be there, also there is a small light dot at the bottom of the second numeral that you can't see in the pic.

This only affects the PL1 & PL2 displays, I have tried swapping the ribbon cables over and unplugging one at a time, no difference.
I doubt it is the power supply board as that is a new repro.

I'm wondering if wobbling of the backbox has maybe cracked the solder somewhere on the display board? But I'm only average at soldering so I don't want to start shotguinning that if it's something else.

I thought maybe there might be a clue in the fact that it's both PL1 and PL2 displays at once?

pinbot display (resized).jpg

Have you checked connections between the MPU/driver and the display controller? Could be oxidized pins or cracked solder at the headers. Easy enough place to start. A little DeOxit sprayed on the header pins can work magic.

Richard

Thanks Richard, I have some DeOxit and will give that a try

Anyone have a picture of the green/violet wires going to the drop targets on left side? I've got a row of switches out that I just noticed on this Pinbot I have. Looks like it connector J8 which is the green/violet wire so I checking to make sure the wires are hooked up correctly on it.

Green/violet column is all out in switch test mode. Continuity from MPU to left drop. Continuity on left drop to right slingshot.

Here’s a picture of my wiring on drop targets. Does everything look correct?

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Fixed found broken wire..

I'll try to get a pic later but here is the basic drop wiring.

pinbot (resized).JPG

Thanks I was looking at this and I have continuity on the Green/violet wire through all switches. Don’t see anything broken either..

Here are how my drop targets are wired.
Hope it helps.

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IMG_0352 (resized).jpg

Fixed found broken wire..

Here you go

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That label has always concerned me.. 28V #89.. a #89 is a 12 volt lamp. The 28V supply to certain sockets on a Pinbot will smoke a 12V bulb in a hurry, like an old-school disposable camera flashbulb. 28V locations take a #1251 lamp. Most of us know this already, but don't let a silly label fool you.

Richard

Pinbot uses warming resistors to keep the filaments warm, so when they flash them they actually limit inrush current. I put the #89 in and everything works fine as long as the warming resistors are in place, which they usually are not, they are notorious for ending up in the bottom of the cabinet when routed as the ceramic power resistors would vibrate and break right off. I think I had all but one in the bottom of mine.

It's been years since I re-bulbed my Pinbot so I can't recall specifically which locations *require* a 1251 but if you get one wrong you'll know it.

Kinda like putting an 1156 (12V) in the beacon socket on a High Speed or F-14.. those take 1683 (28V) ... you won't soon forget the experience; you'll still see the flash with your eyes closed for several minutes!

Richard

I got a question for you guys. I replaced the targets on the visor. I'm seeing a greasy substance in the track that raises and lowers the visor. Is this actual grease or just old gunk? If it is grease, what are you using? May as well get it right while it is out.

Silicone grease, sparingly, but I don't think its needed unless your carrier is sticking in the slides. Mine has nothing and has worked 25 years in HUO, no problems. I would try it dry, adding minor amounts to slides if its sticky and wants to hang up.

Yeah, mine had some grease too but wiped it up and cleaned it. You don't need it in that area..

Thanks for the info guys!

Whoa there, way to bury the lead!
Where did you end up sourcing the new targets?

Just acquired my first pin and couldn't be happier!

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Yeah, inquiring minds want to know... these things are harder to find than hens teeth.

Would these be the same targets? Looks like they have all five colors, either just on the main switch blade or the entire switch (#11315-x) and doesn't say out of stock (?) But was pretty easy to find so maybe they just don't have them, I dunno. I don't need any for my Jackbot. JB's manual uses the 11315-x numbers except for yellow which is 11177.

https://www.euro-pinball.de/en/advanced_search_result.php?categories_id=0&keywords=rectangular+target&inc_subcat=1

Definitely look into the PEMBOT upgraded code. It's awesome. Adds a ball saver (shield) that is nice for home use.

I ended up buying a set of translucent target blades from pinball-mods.com and they are identical. I just pried the old ones apart with a small flathead screwdriver.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/rectangle-target-blade-p-56.html

They have rectangle and round ones as well. I think they will compliment the 2 tone ramp well.

Did I miss a pic of these installed ?
Or can you post a pic of the new targets installed ?

Thanks.

I will definitely post a couple pics once I get them installed, but here they are on the bench. I have a spare visor assembly so its not a rush for me to get it in. I'm waiting on the next batch of 2 tone ramps to get done being made so I can get that and the lift ramp freshened up. Mine work but definitely show their age. I have a new set of plastics and spiral ramp to install as well. I will be happy to share my progress once I've gotten further.

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Has Freeplay40 done the spiral ramp in new colors like the 2 tone ramp? I need a new spiral and have always heard good things about his products.

Spiral ramp was injection molded by planetary pinball. Freeplay does vacuum formed pieces (awesomely, I say!).

Yeah I didn't get my spiral ramp from him. He does make a blue or smoke visor though as well.