(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

8 years ago


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  • 424 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 days ago by WesleyB
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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There are 5,288 posts in this topic. You are on page 96 of 106.
#4751 11 months ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

I am not sure what you mean by the upper left plastic? Do you mean the "U" one that surrounds the kick out?
///Rich

Bought one for a Jackbot,can barely tell the difference. There is some slight modification that needs to be done.

#4752 11 months ago

Thats very helpful thanks! That is the plastic I was talking about. Can anybody help me with some targets? My green rectangle target is cracked. Id love to buy a new or gently used set if possible. Anybody got some targets or the target plastics they wanna part with?

#4753 11 months ago

I bought a complete NOS set of these targets from a place in Vancouver (or was it Victoria?) BC, Canada early this year. They were sold individually and were ~$10 US each. I'm looking thru my bookmarks and emails, but can't find the source ... I'll post a follow-up when I do.

Wasn't able to find them by searching for PinBot parts, but did a search for the part number identified in my Owner's Manual. I spent multiple evenings searching until I found this parts seller.

#4754 11 months ago

I would be happy to pay for new. It would be excellent if you could let me know where that is thank you!

#4755 11 months ago

after 15-20 minutes digging thru my parts references, all I could find listed in available inventory is the orange (amber) SW-1A-163-4 from Flippers.com (p/n A-11315-4)

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=A-11315

Looks like my order from Feb 2021 was quite timely.

Here's a collage from the Owner's Manual with the switch locations and part number

PinBot visor switches (resized).png

#4756 11 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I would be happy to pay for new. It would be excellent if you could let me know where that is thank you!

These and the standup bank targets are the hardest parts to find... besides maybe the lift ramp. I was happy mine are all in one piece, knock wood.

#4757 11 months ago

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

6001BBC9-FD78-4510-B5C3-43FFC3E84B2D (resized).jpeg
#4758 11 months ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?
[quoted image]

Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-770985361 (resized).jpeg
#4759 11 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.[quoted image]

Yes, that was previously an issue, but I cut the bolt for clearance. It seems to be a matter of a millimeter or two on the solenoid plunger pushing back up to get the ramp to lay flush. Someone suggested double springing the solenoid, so I may try that

#4760 11 months ago

Almost finished labeling the new playfield.. items on the old one are labeled too..

Nearly ready for the PF swap..

Note to self: take pics, more pics and more pics pics pics..

4ADB6D14-B484-4897-A14A-4378BBD2C06B (resized).jpeg
#4761 11 months ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?
[quoted image]

you have to bend the upper metal spring steel a bit down. Be careful not to kink it.

#4762 11 months ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Almost finished labeling the new playfield.. items on the old one are labeled too..
Nearly ready for the PF swap..
Note to self: take pics, more pics and more pics pics pics..
[quoted image]

Documentation, pics are good, but to be 100% honest almost none of it is necessary. All the playfield swaps I've done, there's enough memory in the wiring harness that almost all of the components end up very near where they should go. The only thing I've ever taken tons of pics of and relied on them for component placement is top side assembly when shopping out really complex pins (Demo Man for example was a real bastard.)

Pinbot playfield swap was cake. My experience, anyway. Knocked it out in one evening laid out on cardboard on my spare room floor.

Richard

#4763 11 months ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

#4764 11 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

This would make the ramp become a ski jump!!

#4765 11 months ago
Quoted from slochar:

This would make the ramp become a ski jump!!

I bent mine on a cylinder and no jump at all. I said to bend gently.
Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

#4766 11 months ago
Quoted from Chnillapoil:

I bent mine on a cylinder and no jump at all. I said to bend gently.
Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

I guess if you're bending down to make up for ramp not going low enough it would be different. Bending it the other way causes the ski jump effect.

The ramp gets out of adjustment from worn parts usually, or binding in the coil area.

#4767 11 months ago
Quoted from Chnillapoil:

Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

I just explained the adjustment in detail. Move the position of the nut in the slot on the arm. The ramp will fall into position, but it’s unlikely to do that first try. I had this exact issue when rebuilding mine, had to tweak the nut adjustment, and have had to do it in the past when I replaced the transition flap. It seems like it isn’t going to work, and then it works. PinBot has been around for 35 years, the ramp weighs enough to come to rest on the playfield.

#4768 11 months ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

The main issue is that the threaded-on-one-side rod on that mechanism drags against the cutout of the metal sidewall between it and the ramp. Provided that the ramp isn’t dragging against the side of either ball guide (it has to be “centered” in order to drop freely; you can adjust that at the legs that straddle the “collect energy bonus” lane), the primary trouble spot is that little rod dragging against the slot in that metal partition. Free it up from that and all will be well.

Additional note: I switched to a whole new assembly made my Freeplay40, and had a bear of a time with it. No shade on Freeplay’s work at all - it’s just a lot of parts that have to align just so, and a tiny bit “off” in one direction or the other can throw it out of whack. I think I needed up embiggenong the holes where those legs attach to the playfield, to avoid having to redo the riveting. It was majorly fussy but eventually went together properly. There’s just a *lot* going on in that intersection, the whitewood process on that must’ve taken a few tries.

#4769 11 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

Much thanks! Yes, I noticed a substantial difference in the gap after a playfield rebuild, so this makes complete sense that I looked past the needed adjustment. And yes, that bolt has been sliced!

#4770 11 months ago

Not perfect, but 80-90% better. Another Pinside miracle, thank you

FC721FBA-FF2E-415C-9143-8F040701879A (resized).jpeg
#4771 11 months ago

Hi Pin_Bot fans recently I sold my other pinball and left my Pin_Bot on it's own, it will only be for awhile before my new JP Prem arrives.

Anyway Pin_Bot has been fine for years but now has got lonely and is pining and playing up.

The score displays developed an intermittent problem (see pic below) and sometimes show lighted segments that should not be there, also there is a small light dot at the bottom of the second numeral that you can't see in the pic.

This only affects the PL1 & PL2 displays, I have tried swapping the ribbon cables over and unplugging one at a time, no difference.
I doubt it is the power supply board as that is a new repro.

I'm wondering if wobbling of the backbox has maybe cracked the solder somewhere on the display board? But I'm only average at soldering so I don't want to start shotguinning that if it's something else.

I thought maybe there might be a clue in the fact that it's both PL1 and PL2 displays at once?

pinbot display (resized).jpg
#4772 11 months ago
Quoted from Rat:

Hi Pin_Bot fans recently I sold my other pinball and left my Pin_Bot on it's own, it will only be for awhile before my new JP Prem arrives.
Anyway Pin_Bot has been fine for years but now has got lonely and is pining and playing up.
The score displays developed an intermittent problem (see pic below) and sometimes show lighted segments that should not be there, also there is a small light dot at the bottom of the second numeral that you can't see in the pic.
This only affects the PL1 & PL2 displays, I have tried swapping the ribbon cables over and unplugging one at a time, no difference.
I doubt it is the power supply board as that is a new repro.
I'm wondering if wobbling of the backbox has maybe cracked the solder somewhere on the display board? But I'm only average at soldering so I don't want to start shotguinning that if it's something else.
I thought maybe there might be a clue in the fact that it's both PL1 and PL2 displays at once?[quoted image]

Have you checked connections between the MPU/driver and the display controller? Could be oxidized pins or cracked solder at the headers. Easy enough place to start. A little DeOxit sprayed on the header pins can work magic.

Richard

#4773 11 months ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Have you checked connections between the MPU/driver and the display controller? Could be oxidized pins or cracked solder at the headers. Easy enough place to start. A little DeOxit sprayed on the header pins can work magic.
Richard

Thanks Richard, I have some DeOxit and will give that a try

#4774 11 months ago

Anyone have a picture of the green/violet wires going to the drop targets on left side? I've got a row of switches out that I just noticed on this Pinbot I have. Looks like it connector J8 which is the green/violet wire so I checking to make sure the wires are hooked up correctly on it.

Green/violet column is all out in switch test mode. Continuity from MPU to left drop. Continuity on left drop to right slingshot.

Here’s a picture of my wiring on drop targets. Does everything look correct?

10138980-20DE-46BC-AF77-0C21E5464A22 (resized).jpeg
Added 11 months ago:

Fixed found broken wire..

#4775 11 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Anyone have a picture of the green/violet wires going to the drop targets on left side?

I'll try to get a pic later but here is the basic drop wiring.

pinbot (resized).JPG
#4776 11 months ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

I'll try to get a pic later but here is the basic drop wiring.[quoted image]

Thanks I was looking at this and I have continuity on the Green/violet wire through all switches. Don’t see anything broken either..

#4777 11 months ago

Here are how my drop targets are wired.
Hope it helps.

IMG_0351 (resized).jpgIMG_0352 (resized).jpg
#4778 11 months ago

Looks like your Green/Voilet wires are wired on a different switch then mine, probably doesn't matter since they are all daisy chained together by the yellow wire..

Added 11 months ago:

Fixed found broken wire..

#4779 11 months ago

I was just wondering if anyone here can help and tell me what’s written on the stickers that are on the underside of the playfield. I am doing a playfield swap and are replacing the stickers with new ones. I just seem to miss the stickers that are located near the pop bumpers and in the area above the visor motor.

See pic for example of what stickers I am talking about

THANKS

image (resized).jpg
#4780 11 months ago

Anyone?

#4781 11 months ago

Here you go

DSCF0064 (resized).JPGDSCF0081 (resized).JPG
#4782 11 months ago

That label has always concerned me.. 28V #89.. a #89 is a 12 volt lamp. The 28V supply to certain sockets on a Pinbot will smoke a 12V bulb in a hurry, like an old-school disposable camera flashbulb. 28V locations take a #1251 lamp. Most of us know this already, but don't let a silly label fool you.

Richard

#4783 11 months ago

Pinbot uses warming resistors to keep the filaments warm, so when they flash them they actually limit inrush current. I put the #89 in and everything works fine as long as the warming resistors are in place, which they usually are not, they are notorious for ending up in the bottom of the cabinet when routed as the ceramic power resistors would vibrate and break right off. I think I had all but one in the bottom of mine.

#4784 11 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Pinbot uses warming resistors to keep the filaments warm, so when they flash them they actually limit inrush current. I put the #89 in and everything works fine as long as the warming resistors are in place, which they usually are not, they are notorious for ending up in the bottom of the cabinet when routed as the ceramic power resistors would vibrate and break right off. I think I had all but one in the bottom of mine.

It's been years since I re-bulbed my Pinbot so I can't recall specifically which locations *require* a 1251 but if you get one wrong you'll know it.

Kinda like putting an 1156 (12V) in the beacon socket on a High Speed or F-14.. those take 1683 (28V) ... you won't soon forget the experience; you'll still see the flash with your eyes closed for several minutes!

Richard

#4785 11 months ago

I got a question for you guys. I replaced the targets on the visor. I'm seeing a greasy substance in the track that raises and lowers the visor. Is this actual grease or just old gunk? If it is grease, what are you using? May as well get it right while it is out.

#4786 11 months ago

Silicone grease, sparingly, but I don't think its needed unless your carrier is sticking in the slides. Mine has nothing and has worked 25 years in HUO, no problems. I would try it dry, adding minor amounts to slides if its sticky and wants to hang up.

#4787 11 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I got a question for you guys. I replaced the targets on the visor. I'm seeing a greasy substance in the track that raises and lowers the visor. Is this actual grease or just old gunk? If it is grease, what are you using? May as well get it right while it is out.

Yeah, mine had some grease too but wiped it up and cleaned it. You don't need it in that area..

#4788 11 months ago

Thanks for the info guys!

#4789 10 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I replaced the targets on the visor.

Whoa there, way to bury the lead!
Where did you end up sourcing the new targets?

10
#4790 10 months ago

Just acquired my first pin and couldn't be happier!

IMG_7695 (resized).jpg
#4791 10 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Whoa there, way to bury the lead!
Where did you end up sourcing the new targets?

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know... these things are harder to find than hens teeth.

#4792 10 months ago

Would these be the same targets? Looks like they have all five colors, either just on the main switch blade or the entire switch (#11315-x) and doesn't say out of stock (?) But was pretty easy to find so maybe they just don't have them, I dunno. I don't need any for my Jackbot. JB's manual uses the 11315-x numbers except for yellow which is 11177.

https://www.euro-pinball.de/en/advanced_search_result.php?categories_id=0&keywords=rectangular+target&inc_subcat=1

#4793 10 months ago
Quoted from jackl:

Just acquired my first pin and couldn't be happier!

Congrats.. it was my first pinball too.. absolute fantastic machine, just gives me a 80’s vibe by listening to its sounds.

Cant wait to play it again.. been restoring it and it’s a slow progress

#4794 10 months ago

Definitely look into the PEMBOT upgraded code. It's awesome. Adds a ball saver (shield) that is nice for home use.

#4795 10 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Whoa there, way to bury the lead!
Where did you end up sourcing the new targets?

I ended up buying a set of translucent target blades from pinball-mods.com and they are identical. I just pried the old ones apart with a small flathead screwdriver.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/rectangle-target-blade-p-56.html

They have rectangle and round ones as well. I think they will compliment the 2 tone ramp well.

#4796 10 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I ended up buying a set of translucent target blades from pinball-mods.com and they are identical.

Did I miss a pic of these installed ?
Or can you post a pic of the new targets installed ?

Thanks.

#4797 10 months ago

I will definitely post a couple pics once I get them installed, but here they are on the bench. I have a spare visor assembly so its not a rush for me to get it in. I'm waiting on the next batch of 2 tone ramps to get done being made so I can get that and the lift ramp freshened up. Mine work but definitely show their age. I have a new set of plastics and spiral ramp to install as well. I will be happy to share my progress once I've gotten further.

20210622_210822 (resized).jpg20210622_210835 (resized).jpg

#4798 10 months ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I will definitely post a couple pics once I get them installed, but here they are on the bench. I have a spare visor assembly so its not a rush for me to get it in. I'm waiting on the next batch of 2 tone ramps to get done being made so I can get that and the lift ramp freshened up. Mine work but definitely show their age. I have a new set of plastics and spiral ramp to install as well. I will be happy to share my progress once I've gotten further.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Has Freeplay40 done the spiral ramp in new colors like the 2 tone ramp? I need a new spiral and have always heard good things about his products.

#4799 10 months ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Has Freeplay40 done the spiral ramp in new colors like the 2 tone ramp? I need a new spiral and have always heard good things about his products.

Spiral ramp was injection molded by planetary pinball. Freeplay does vacuum formed pieces (awesomely, I say!).

#4800 10 months ago

Yeah I didn't get my spiral ramp from him. He does make a blue or smoke visor though as well.

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