(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 4,784 posts
  • 390 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by someotherguy
  • Topic is favorited by 198 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

DSCF0081 (resized).JPG
DSCF0064 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpg
IMG_0351 (resized).jpg
IMG_0352 (resized).jpg
10138980-20DE-46BC-AF77-0C21E5464A22 (resized).jpeg
pinbot (resized).JPG
pinbot display (resized).jpg
FC721FBA-FF2E-415C-9143-8F040701879A (resized).jpeg
4ADB6D14-B484-4897-A14A-4378BBD2C06B (resized).jpeg
USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-770985361 (resized).jpeg
6001BBC9-FD78-4510-B5C3-43FFC3E84B2D (resized).jpeg
PinBot visor switches (resized).png
Screenshot_20210607-092843_Chrome (resized).jpg
20210606_164436 (resized).jpg
A3D88D91-D4DB-4B39-BC84-ED1F8711D642 (resized).jpeg

There are 4784 posts in this topic. You are on page 96 of 96.
#4751 12 days ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

I am not sure what you mean by the upper left plastic? Do you mean the "U" one that surrounds the kick out?
///Rich

Bought one for a Jackbot,can barely tell the difference. There is some slight modification that needs to be done.

#4752 12 days ago

Thats very helpful thanks! That is the plastic I was talking about. Can anybody help me with some targets? My green rectangle target is cracked. Id love to buy a new or gently used set if possible. Anybody got some targets or the target plastics they wanna part with?

#4753 12 days ago

I bought a complete NOS set of these targets from a place in Vancouver (or was it Victoria?) BC, Canada early this year. They were sold individually and were ~$10 US each. I'm looking thru my bookmarks and emails, but can't find the source ... I'll post a follow-up when I do.

Wasn't able to find them by searching for PinBot parts, but did a search for the part number identified in my Owner's Manual. I spent multiple evenings searching until I found this parts seller.

#4754 12 days ago

I would be happy to pay for new. It would be excellent if you could let me know where that is thank you!

#4755 12 days ago

after 15-20 minutes digging thru my parts references, all I could find listed in available inventory is the orange (amber) SW-1A-163-4 from Flippers.com (p/n A-11315-4)

https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=A-11315

Looks like my order from Feb 2021 was quite timely.

Here's a collage from the Owner's Manual with the switch locations and part number

PinBot visor switches (resized).png

#4756 12 days ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

I would be happy to pay for new. It would be excellent if you could let me know where that is thank you!

These and the standup bank targets are the hardest parts to find... besides maybe the lift ramp. I was happy mine are all in one piece, knock wood.

#4757 11 days ago

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

6001BBC9-FD78-4510-B5C3-43FFC3E84B2D (resized).jpeg
#4758 11 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?
[quoted image]

Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-770985361 (resized).jpeg
#4759 11 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Check this arm over on the right side of the ramp and make sure its not hanging up on the plastic. Mine was doing that for a while.[quoted image]

Yes, that was previously an issue, but I cut the bolt for clearance. It seems to be a matter of a millimeter or two on the solenoid plunger pushing back up to get the ramp to lay flush. Someone suggested double springing the solenoid, so I may try that

#4760 10 days ago

Almost finished labeling the new playfield.. items on the old one are labeled too..

Nearly ready for the PF swap..

Note to self: take pics, more pics and more pics pics pics..

4ADB6D14-B484-4897-A14A-4378BBD2C06B (resized).jpeg
#4761 10 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?
[quoted image]

you have to bend the upper metal spring steel a bit down. Be careful not to kink it.

#4762 10 days ago
Quoted from Vin-bot:

Almost finished labeling the new playfield.. items on the old one are labeled too..
Nearly ready for the PF swap..
Note to self: take pics, more pics and more pics pics pics..
[quoted image]

Documentation, pics are good, but to be 100% honest almost none of it is necessary. All the playfield swaps I've done, there's enough memory in the wiring harness that almost all of the components end up very near where they should go. The only thing I've ever taken tons of pics of and relied on them for component placement is top side assembly when shopping out really complex pins (Demo Man for example was a real bastard.)

Pinbot playfield swap was cake. My experience, anyway. Knocked it out in one evening laid out on cardboard on my spare room floor.

Richard

#4763 10 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

#4764 10 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

This would make the ramp become a ski jump!!

#4765 10 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

This would make the ramp become a ski jump!!

I bent mine on a cylinder and no jump at all. I said to bend gently.
Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

#4766 10 days ago
Quoted from Chnillapoil:

I bent mine on a cylinder and no jump at all. I said to bend gently.
Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

I guess if you're bending down to make up for ramp not going low enough it would be different. Bending it the other way causes the ski jump effect.

The ramp gets out of adjustment from worn parts usually, or binding in the coil area.

#4767 10 days ago
Quoted from Chnillapoil:

Anyway the ramp is too light and there is no other adjustments I can see.

I just explained the adjustment in detail. Move the position of the nut in the slot on the arm. The ramp will fall into position, but it’s unlikely to do that first try. I had this exact issue when rebuilding mine, had to tweak the nut adjustment, and have had to do it in the past when I replaced the transition flap. It seems like it isn’t going to work, and then it works. PinBot has been around for 35 years, the ramp weighs enough to come to rest on the playfield.

#4768 10 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

There is a pretty good size gap when the ramp is down. Any ideas on a fix while I’m taking it out for a good clean?

The main issue is that the threaded-on-one-side rod on that mechanism drags against the cutout of the metal sidewall between it and the ramp. Provided that the ramp isn’t dragging against the side of either ball guide (it has to be “centered” in order to drop freely; you can adjust that at the legs that straddle the “collect energy bonus” lane), the primary trouble spot is that little rod dragging against the slot in that metal partition. Free it up from that and all will be well.

Additional note: I switched to a whole new assembly made my Freeplay40, and had a bear of a time with it. No shade on Freeplay’s work at all - it’s just a lot of parts that have to align just so, and a tiny bit “off” in one direction or the other can throw it out of whack. I think I needed up embiggenong the holes where those legs attach to the playfield, to avoid having to redo the riveting. It was majorly fussy but eventually went together properly. There’s just a *lot* going on in that intersection, the whitewood process on that must’ve taken a few tries.

#4769 10 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That mechanism has a *lot* of adjustment leeway to it, and can be a bit of a trick to dial in. You should be able to get it within a couple tries though. Take the big plastic off, so you don’t break it at that thin point, and just loosen the nut until you can move it. It’s all about where that nut is seated; if it’s too far forward or back you’ll get the issue of it not being able to raise, or the issue you’re having where it doesn’t drop fully. It’ll become clear pretty quickly when you start to tinker with it. A little bit fussy, but not difficult ultimately.
Also, while you’re at it, you might want to file or Dremel down the threads on that post. The big plastic is *always* broken at that thin spot, and when I restored my game I realized it was almost certainly from the threaded end catching on it repeatedly. 1/16” or so should do it.
Don’t try to bend the flap, for goodness’ sake!

Much thanks! Yes, I noticed a substantial difference in the gap after a playfield rebuild, so this makes complete sense that I looked past the needed adjustment. And yes, that bolt has been sliced!

#4770 10 days ago

Not perfect, but 80-90% better. Another Pinside miracle, thank you

FC721FBA-FF2E-415C-9143-8F040701879A (resized).jpeg
#4771 9 days ago

Hi Pin_Bot fans recently I sold my other pinball and left my Pin_Bot on it's own, it will only be for awhile before my new JP Prem arrives.

Anyway Pin_Bot has been fine for years but now has got lonely and is pining and playing up.

The score displays developed an intermittent problem (see pic below) and sometimes show lighted segments that should not be there, also there is a small light dot at the bottom of the second numeral that you can't see in the pic.

This only affects the PL1 & PL2 displays, I have tried swapping the ribbon cables over and unplugging one at a time, no difference.
I doubt it is the power supply board as that is a new repro.

I'm wondering if wobbling of the backbox has maybe cracked the solder somewhere on the display board? But I'm only average at soldering so I don't want to start shotguinning that if it's something else.

I thought maybe there might be a clue in the fact that it's both PL1 and PL2 displays at once?

pinbot display (resized).jpg
#4772 9 days ago
Quoted from Rat:

Hi Pin_Bot fans recently I sold my other pinball and left my Pin_Bot on it's own, it will only be for awhile before my new JP Prem arrives.
Anyway Pin_Bot has been fine for years but now has got lonely and is pining and playing up.
The score displays developed an intermittent problem (see pic below) and sometimes show lighted segments that should not be there, also there is a small light dot at the bottom of the second numeral that you can't see in the pic.
This only affects the PL1 & PL2 displays, I have tried swapping the ribbon cables over and unplugging one at a time, no difference.
I doubt it is the power supply board as that is a new repro.
I'm wondering if wobbling of the backbox has maybe cracked the solder somewhere on the display board? But I'm only average at soldering so I don't want to start shotguinning that if it's something else.
I thought maybe there might be a clue in the fact that it's both PL1 and PL2 displays at once?[quoted image]

Have you checked connections between the MPU/driver and the display controller? Could be oxidized pins or cracked solder at the headers. Easy enough place to start. A little DeOxit sprayed on the header pins can work magic.

Richard

#4773 9 days ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Have you checked connections between the MPU/driver and the display controller? Could be oxidized pins or cracked solder at the headers. Easy enough place to start. A little DeOxit sprayed on the header pins can work magic.
Richard

Thanks Richard, I have some DeOxit and will give that a try

#4774 6 days ago

Anyone have a picture of the green/violet wires going to the drop targets on left side? I've got a row of switches out that I just noticed on this Pinbot I have. Looks like it connector J8 which is the green/violet wire so I checking to make sure the wires are hooked up correctly on it.

Green/violet column is all out in switch test mode. Continuity from MPU to left drop. Continuity on left drop to right slingshot.

Here’s a picture of my wiring on drop targets. Does everything look correct?

10138980-20DE-46BC-AF77-0C21E5464A22 (resized).jpeg
Added 4 days ago:

Fixed found broken wire..

#4775 6 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Anyone have a picture of the green/violet wires going to the drop targets on left side?

I'll try to get a pic later but here is the basic drop wiring.

pinbot (resized).JPG
#4776 6 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

I'll try to get a pic later but here is the basic drop wiring.[quoted image]

Thanks I was looking at this and I have continuity on the Green/violet wire through all switches. Don’t see anything broken either..

#4777 6 days ago

Here are how my drop targets are wired.
Hope it helps.

IMG_0351 (resized).jpgIMG_0352 (resized).jpg
#4778 6 days ago

Looks like your Green/Voilet wires are wired on a different switch then mine, probably doesn't matter since they are all daisy chained together by the yellow wire..

Added 4 days ago:

Fixed found broken wire..

#4779 5 days ago

I was just wondering if anyone here can help and tell me what’s written on the stickers that are on the underside of the playfield. I am doing a playfield swap and are replacing the stickers with new ones. I just seem to miss the stickers that are located near the pop bumpers and in the area above the visor motor.

See pic for example of what stickers I am talking about

THANKS

image (resized).jpg
#4780 4 days ago

Anyone?

#4781 3 days ago

Here you go

DSCF0064 (resized).JPGDSCF0081 (resized).JPG
#4782 3 days ago

That label has always concerned me.. 28V #89.. a #89 is a 12 volt lamp. The 28V supply to certain sockets on a Pinbot will smoke a 12V bulb in a hurry, like an old-school disposable camera flashbulb. 28V locations take a #1251 lamp. Most of us know this already, but don't let a silly label fool you.

Richard

#4783 3 days ago

Pinbot uses warming resistors to keep the filaments warm, so when they flash them they actually limit inrush current. I put the #89 in and everything works fine as long as the warming resistors are in place, which they usually are not, they are notorious for ending up in the bottom of the cabinet when routed as the ceramic power resistors would vibrate and break right off. I think I had all but one in the bottom of mine.

#4784 3 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Pinbot uses warming resistors to keep the filaments warm, so when they flash them they actually limit inrush current. I put the #89 in and everything works fine as long as the warming resistors are in place, which they usually are not, they are notorious for ending up in the bottom of the cabinet when routed as the ceramic power resistors would vibrate and break right off. I think I had all but one in the bottom of mine.

It's been years since I re-bulbed my Pinbot so I can't recall specifically which locations *require* a 1251 but if you get one wrong you'll know it.

Kinda like putting an 1156 (12V) in the beacon socket on a High Speed or F-14.. those take 1683 (28V) ... you won't soon forget the experience; you'll still see the flash with your eyes closed for several minutes!

Richard

There are 4784 posts in this topic. You are on page 96 of 96.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside