Interesting! I put in 89s and they are not on all the time but right still didn’t light?

So you have 2 issues then. Time for some testing.

Yeah not sure what is up. Replaced resistors on lamp board just cause last night. no help. Socket is getting power. could be solenoid select relay but everything else works so not sure about that. MPU is new and perfect so doubt a transistor. I guess I'll start tracing out wires to diode switch board and double check Q24 driver transistor just to be sure. Outside of that kind of at a loss?

First issue is that you need to remove the warming resistors (330 ohm) or remove the ground wire from the resistor board.

Second issue is the right side insert flashers don't light, does the drop targets reset? Yes so Q-24 is working. Do other flash lamps work? Yes so the A/C relay is working. You say that you are getting power at the socket, under what conditions? There shouldn't be power at the socket until the A/C is turned on, this way if the A/C relay fails the coils will continue to work. To check for power on the orange wire at the flash socket you will need to use a jumper wire tied to ground and connect the other end to the metal tab of Q-7. This will hold the A/C relay on energizing the C side solenoids. You should be able to test for power at both wires of the bulb sockets. If this is good then test for power on the resistor board on the lamp and driver terminals. If this checks out then find the diode board under the playfield. Then test for power on both sides of the diode marked C-4. Since the drop targets work then you know that A-4 diode and wiring back to the CPU is fine. Let me know what you find.

I notice when my visor opens about 1/2 of the way, it seems to stick and then 'pop' up suddenly the rest of the way, almost like there is some resistance somewhere. When the visor closes it is very smooth and not jumpy at all. Is this a common issue? any easy fixes?

Mine hits the rubber on the right side.

Finally added a system 11 to the collection (thanks to pinsider @dancosta!).....and not just any system 11 but one of my favorite machines from the 80’s Pinbot. I might swap out the legs to blue when I do the LED upgrade. What do you guys think, yay or nay on the yellow legs?

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NAY!

That happens with mine when I fully tighten all the mounting screws. I think my playfield is very slightly tweaked so when I tighten all the screws this tweaks the vertical visor guides/tracks slightly out of alignment. To get mine all nice an buttery I cleaned all the parts and then played around with loosening some of the mounting screws.

Emphatic nay. Go with original chrome legs, they match the lockdown bar and siderails.

Nay. I like the standard chrome legs on mine. I just finished swapping out a red/blue GI LED setup that my Pinbot had with comet sunlight 2smds and the machine looks significantly better. YMMV.

I prefer black powdercoat. But pinball is subjective. So do what you like.

I admit I really do like the red/blue displays.
If my original displays ever start to outgas Ill buy those.
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I like the look of the cool white in Pinbot. But sunlight is normally my go to bulb.

Me too..

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Pinbot is my first machine and one of my all time favorites. For those of you that haven’t tried the new PEMBOT code you are really missing out. It is an awesome upgrade and really well done. Makes a great game even better!

Does anyone have a spare original translite or know who may sell them? At one point my game must have had a flash lamp locked on for one of the eyes. Many people may not notice but I do and would like to freshen it up. Also thinking about the new back glass option but that isn’t in the budget at the moment.

Where can you get it?

There is a PEMBOT thread that talks about it. You can’t buy the code but if you know someone with a programmer you can get a set made. Just the two main ROMs on the MPU.

Adds features like a ball save similar to newer games that can really make a difference for casual family players. It’s just a fantastic upgrade.

Im currently waiting for mine to arrive in the mail. Excited to try it out.

Thank you for posting that, looks amazing with the all Black trim. My wife likes the yellow legs but I’m not feeling it or the original chrome look. Almost all of my tables are modern pins so I think the black would make it look more updated. I’m liking the idea of black with a few yellow pin stripes added to tie it all together.

Haven't seen translites for sale retail, at least that I recall.
Maybe someone who switched to a screened backglass will sell the translite.

I have a black glass and can part with my translite.

I'm getting ready to do a playfield swap and was thinking about Cliffy's. Does anyone use them on a new playfield or would it be overkill?

If you are talking about the new flipper lane ball guides, it is worth it. I swapped out what I think were the factory ones with Cliffys and the transition from lane to flipper is now smooth and predictable. I did my BoP after and am now waiting on a set for my Fathom.

I just finished restoring a Pinbot playfield (just in time to see the re-release from CPR ) and am waiting on a full set of Cliffys. Yes, everything is fully clear coated, but a known wear area is a known wear area, so to my mind ,even with HUO, a steel ball is harder than any clear coat or plywood, so it’s smart to install the protectors while you have easy access to everything. I added a switch cover for the spot under the 5k vortex hole, since that’s always totally wrecked from a zillion ball drops.

Only problem with Cliffy is the wait time on orders. I put in my order a month ago and have no idea when to expect it. No slam on Cliff, I know he is crazy busy this year what with everybody working on games during the pandemic, but I hope I get them soon...I’ve got an IJ machine I’m working on for somebody which is gonna be held up if they don’t come along in another week or so! It’d be a damn shame to have to start...tearing into yet another project while I wait...

In any event, Cliff makes an amazing product and I always install them on every game I can. I really don’t understand why the manufacturers haven’t worked with him to make protectors and install them from the factory at this point. Yes, what he does is highly specific, but surely it’s a skill other people could learn...?

Looking for some displays for my Pinbot if you have any older ones laying around let me know.. Thanks!

Which ones are you needing?

All of them, what do you have?

It's been a while, but if I remember right my player 2 and player 3 didn't work, but the others did.

PM me if you have some for sale.. Thanks!

I will dig them out and let you know!

let me know if you make the pinbot topper I could use one

Same here! Let me know as well if you make a topper or know of any repos for sale.

My topper is missing the mylar? tape on the ends. Does anyone know what I can use?

Search for Crafting Tape or Washi Tape and find something pretty close.
Its been years but I think this is what I used and it was in store stock so I could look at it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Expressions-Washi-Tape-Iridescent-White-1-Roll/294837967

My original topper has silver/shiny tape... I always assumed it was just some shiny aluminum tape? Same stuff you use for ductwork? I guess it could by aluminized mylar but If I had to replace it today, I’d go the shiny aluminum tape route... easier to find at Home Depot or Lowes

I put LEDs in my topper unaware that they'd stay on. But oddly enough the middle LEDs stay on and the end ones flash as the game plays. I've grown to like them like that. I feel like it brings more attention to the topper.

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There is a resistor board in the back box that needs the warming resistors removed to correct this.

Is there also one for Pinbot's eyes?

There is one for every flasher in the machine, I think, but they were these giant high wattage ceramic resistors and a lot of them broke off while being routed due to vibration stress cracking the leads and they would just fall to the bottom of the cabinet. This doesn’t kill the flasher, just makes it not as “flashy” since the whole idea is keeping the lamp filaments warm so in-rush current draw is lower, and the light comes on quicker. Most operators didn’t even notice when they fell off because of this. When I shopped my Pinbot after buying it some 25+ years ago, I replaced them all not knowing what they were for, I just found the dead soldiers in the bottom of the cabinet and assumed they were required, so I spec’d them out and replaced them all. Fast forward to today’s LEDs and warming resistors are a distant memory and now create problems for those wishing to convert to LEDs.

That’s the prime reason I can see for switching to LED flashers - you never have to worry about those dumb resistors again. I had replaced the missing ones on my F-14 Tomcat only to have them de-solder themselves right off the board after a pinball tournament at my house. I can see where people don’t want to “hack” their game, but this is one worth doing. This era of machine with all that extra wiring...ugh.

The eye do not have a resistor, because they are #1251 28 volt bulbs. The other bulbs are #89 12 volt and need the resistors.

Is there a detailed turtorial on how to convert the topper lights to LED?

Find the 2 resistor boards (purple circle) in the back box. Cut off the 4 outer smaller resistors from the boards. Install the leds, enjoy.

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Hello, all! I'm having a problem finding a missing post on my Pin*Bot, which was replaced with a hack by a previous owner. It's one of the two unusual tall ones that hold up the right side of the bagatelle playfield.

The one of the two posts I have:

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Where the one that's missing should be (wide shot):

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Where the one that's missing should be (close up):

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I started a thread specifically for this but haven't been able to find any reference in the manual, the appropriate Williams parts catalog, etc.. It's like a ghost... A ghost post.

Any information is appreciated.

To me it looks like the good one, a little bent but ok.

I like how my Pinbot looks (Fading into the background) halfway in sanding the cabinet..

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PINBOT CENTER POST
I have a Pinbot that does not have a center post.
I bought a reproduction playfield and that has a provision for a center post.

I wonder, did all original Pinbot’s came without a center post or did some of original ones came with a center post?

Image of exact spot? I can check mine out.

Center post is shown in the flyer so it's likely that all games were supposed to come with them.