(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 6,055 posts
  • 462 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 hours ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

PXL_20240327_233803509 (resized).jpg
PXL_20240304_030924874 (resized).jpg
diode (resized).PNG
PXL_20240304_005552435 (resized).jpg
IMG_0445 (resized).jpeg
20240112_135819 (resized).jpg
20240112_135811 (resized).jpg
IMG_5901 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5902 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7922 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7923 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7921 (resized).jpeg
541EBD6A-2CA4-43E0-AB4B-B18C7FF31AF0 (resized).jpeg
Pinside_forum_7003307_0 (resized).jpg
IMG_1351 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1103 (resized).jpeg

There are 6,055 posts in this topic. You are on page 91 of 122.
#4501 3 years ago

Does anyone have the correct part number and accurate count of Snubber boards? These have been modded so much over the years I want to be certain.

#4502 3 years ago

I think the carriage that holds my visor targets is super worn out. The target assembly has a lot of play in it and often when I hit one target I'll get multiple switch closures.

Has anyone found remakes for the carriage? Maybe someone could 3D scan and Print some for the club? I'd definitely take a set.

#4503 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I think the carriage that holds my visor targets is super worn out. The target assembly has a lot of play in it and often when I hit one target I'll get multiple switch closures.
Has anyone found remakes for the carriage? Maybe someone could 3D scan and Print some for the club? I'd definitely take a set.

I can look into putting something together, but I'm not a fast modeler.

If you're getting multiple switch closures, I would check the switch gaps and double check that all switch wiring is clear and not connecting with the others.

Two questions for you:
- Do you have the guide brackets on your mech?
- Do you have the small piece for the motor cam that slides back and forth in the target carrier?

#4504 3 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Does anyone have the correct part number and accurate count of Snubber boards? These have been modded so much over the years I want to be certain.

There are 4 relays. 3 relays are the same. One is set up as an A/C relay.

aaa (resized).PNGaaa (resized).PNG
#4505 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There are 4 relays. 3 relays are the same. One is set up as an A/C relay.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the info, according to the indicated footnote all four boards are supposed to be C-11232-1 but there are a lot of posts/images here of various iterations.

#4506 3 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Two questions for you:
- Do you have the guide brackets on your mech?
- Do you have the small piece for the motor cam that slides back and forth in the target carrier?

Yeah mine is all there. The brackets are broken near the mounting holes. So its difficult to get them lined up properly.

I think if I put foam behind the Targets it will help minimize the switch closures. But I was hoping that I could find new parts or even just less worn out parts before I take the time to put foam in.

#4507 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I think the carriage that holds my visor targets is super worn out. The target assembly has a lot of play in it and often when I hit one target I'll get multiple switch closures.
Has anyone found remakes for the carriage? Maybe someone could 3D scan and Print some for the club? I'd definitely take a set.

All the parts for the targets are available as 3D printed parts or parts made from the original molds. I like the original mold ones the best.

If you can't find them let me know with a PM as I am sure that when I was amassing parts for my "restore" more like fix, I bought extras. But again, I am sure they are available. What you will not find is the plastic colored targets or new switches although those can be assembled. I put mine in a ultrasonic and it came out pristine.

///Rich

#4508 3 years ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

All the parts for the targets are available as 3D printed parts or parts made from the original molds. I like the original mold ones the best.
If you can't find them let me know with a PM as I am sure that when I was amassing parts for my "restore" more like fix, I bought extras. But again, I am sure they are available. What you will not find is the plastic colored targets or new switches although those can be assembled. I put mine in a ultrasonic and it came out pristine.
///Rich

So far it looks like everyone is out of stock (I checked Planetary, Pinballinc, and Marco.) There's a decent-looking used one on the 'bay, but it is used, and he already has a used one.

Richard

#4509 3 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I have full sets of all the decals I sell. But I have a partial set let over of just the ramp decals I can send you if you pay shipping. Lmk[quoted image]

How much just for the helmet decal?

#4510 3 years ago

Working on a project Pinbot and I need some displays for it. If you have any laying around that you replaced with Leds ones let me know. Thanks!

#4511 3 years ago

Looking for a visor/helmet for my machine. If anyone has one from a parted out machine let me know, I might be interested.

Thanks!

#4512 3 years ago

Looking for a visor/helmet for my machine. If anyone has one from a parted out machine let me know, I might be interested. I've never seen reproductions of the actual visor that lifts.

Also looking for the little clear plastic with the rocket ship decal that goes over the bottom of the vortex ramp.

Thanks!

#4513 3 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Also looking for the little clear plastic with the rocket ship decal that goes over the bottom of the vortex ramp.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-B-11407

Doesn't have the brackets so you'd have to make some.

#4514 3 years ago

Thanks for the link!

#4515 3 years ago

I added britecap EVOs to my Pinbot tonight. It was always so dark underneath there. I need to play with the brightness a little bit but much better than the single LED bulb before.

20210114_212609 (resized).jpg20210114_212609 (resized).jpg
#4516 3 years ago

Got my plastics protectors today. I'm completely vexed by where this might be from the description and the piece: " It also includes a washer for the right side of the top lane"

Any ideas?

EDIT
ok I think this might be it?

Pinbot (resized).jpgPinbot (resized).jpg
#4517 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I added britecap EVOs to my Pinbot tonight. It was always so dark underneath there.

I tried that, too. Looks great in daylight but I found that when playing with dimmed lights that the bright pops hide both the bride graphics on the mini-PF and also the energy flasher. I gradually reduced the brightness until I arrived back where I started, with incandescent bulbs...

#4518 3 years ago
Quoted from idealjoker:

I tried that, too. Looks great in daylight but I found that when playing with dimmed lights that the bright pops hide both the bride graphics on the mini-PF and also the energy flasher. I gradually reduced the brightness until I arrived back where I started, with incandescent bulbs...

I'm wondering if solid red caps would help? I really like how bright it lights up underneath, but the glare from the topside is not what I was going for.

#4519 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I'm wondering if solid red caps would help?

Neat idea! Let us know how it works out.

#4520 3 years ago

I'm trying to rivet a new steel ramp to the vortex and need to know what type of rivets to use. Pop rivets look really bad. What have other people done to attach the steel ramp? If you used rivets, what type were they, and where did you source them? Any special tools needed? What other methods have been used to attach the steel ramp? Pics?

Thanks

Bill C

#4521 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I'm trying to rivet a new steel ramp to the vortex and need to know what type of rivets to use. Pop rivets look really bad. What have other people done to attach the steel ramp? If you used rivets, what type were they, and where did you source them? Any special tools needed? What other methods have been used to attach the steel ramp? Pics?
Thanks
Bill C

I bought rivets from here bill. Used the punch to install them.

http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Freeplay40 on this forum was extremely helpful as well.

#4522 3 years ago

Thanks - I didn't know this place existed. What length of rivet did you use, and did you use a backing washer on the bottom of the ramp?

#4523 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Thanks - I didn't know this place existed. What length of rivet did you use, and did you use a backing washer on the bottom of the ramp?

I forget which length i used but it wasn't very long. i did use a washer as Freeplay40 suggested.

My pin is in storage while i am having a house built unfortunately so I don't have easy access to any of the supplies to see which ones I used. I bet if you DM Freeplay40 he will help you out for sure.

#4524 3 years ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I have full sets of all the decals I sell.

I would like to purchase a set!

#4525 3 years ago
Quoted from idealjoker:

Neat idea! Let us know how it works out.

My friend KSUWildcatFan is going to sell me his old set of solid red caps for High Speed and Im going to rebuild the pops with clear bases. That paired with the EVO britecaps should light up the lower area without completely washing out the upper Bride playfield.

I'll show everyone my pictures when I finish.

SmartSelect_20210118-212830_Google (resized).jpgSmartSelect_20210118-212830_Google (resized).jpgSmartSelect_20210118-215048_Gallery (resized).jpgSmartSelect_20210118-215048_Gallery (resized).jpg
#4526 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I added britecap EVOs to my Pinbot tonight. It was always so dark underneath there. I need to play with the brightness a little bit but much better than the single LED bulb before.[quoted image]

Looks good, I love my britecaps. I have white opaque caps on mine with red leds.

#4527 3 years ago

Joined the club again and this one is going to be a custom restore.

#4528 3 years ago

I recently purchased a new Visor for my PinBot. Plastic part only. The old visor plastic is attached to the metal hinge piece via rivets. I don't have the equipment for placing these types of rivets and was instead going to simply use small nuts/washer/bolts with blue loctite. Does anyone happen to know what size holes these are? I need to purchase a drill bit set for drilling out the old rivets on the original metal hinge piece and purchase the hardware listed above.

Any advice on this? Suggestions on type (cobalt/titanium) of drill bit for drilling out the metal rivets and attaching new visor? Any way to remove old rivets without drilling? Any unforeseen problems I will run into?

Thanks!

#4529 3 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I recently purchased a new Visor for my PinBot. Plastic part only. The old visor plastic is attached to the metal hinge piece via rivets. I don't have the equipment for placing these types of rivets and was instead going to simply use small nuts/washer/bolts with blue loctite. Does anyone happen to know what size holes these are? I need to purchase a drill bit set for drilling out the old rivets on the original metal hinge piece and purchase the hardware listed above.
Any advice on this? Suggestions on type (cobalt/titanium) of drill bit for drilling out the metal rivets and attaching new visor? Any way to remove old rivets without drilling? Any unforeseen problems I will run into?
Thanks!

The importance of rivets in many locations on pinball machines is where the ball will travel over them.....rivets impede ball movement much less than a screw head. While not original, screws and nuts will work fine on the visor. The diameter of the rivet is 1/8". I remove a lot of rivets. There are two methods I use.... Drilling (from the bottom) with a 1/8" drill bit until the rolled over portion of the rivet comes off, or my preference for removing them is to use a Dremel cut-off disk and grind the rolled over portion of the rivet until flush with the metal plate. Note that either drilling or grind creates a lot of heat which can melt plastic...so it you were removing rivets from a plastic piece you want to save, take your time to avoid heat build up.

Semi-tubular rivets not only "roll over" on the bottom, but the rivet shaft can also expand a little making them very tight in the metal bracket. With something like a visor, you can take a piece of wood and drill a 1/4" hole it in and then after grinding or drilling the bottom of the rivet, center the rivet head over the 1/4" hole in the wood and use a punch to tap the rivet out.

#4530 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

The importance of rivets in many locations on pinball machines is where the ball will travel over them.....rivets impede ball movement much less than a screw head. While not original, screws and nuts will work fine on the visor. The diameter of the rivet is 1/8". I remove a lot of rivets. There are two methods I use.... Drilling (from the bottom) with a 1/8" drill bit until the rolled over portion of the rivet comes off, or my preference for removing them is to use a Dremel cut-off disk and grind the rolled over portion of the rivet until flush with the metal plate. Note that either drilling or grind creates a lot of heat which can melt plastic...so it you were removing rivets from a plastic piece you want to save, take your time to avoid heat build up.
Semi-tubular rivets not only "roll over" on the bottom, but the rivet shaft can also expand a little making them very tight in the metal bracket. With something like a visor, you can take a piece of wood and drill a 1/4" hole it in and then after grinding or drilling the bottom of the rivet, center the rivet head over the 1/4" hole in the wood and use a punch to tap the rivet out.

Thank you!

#4531 3 years ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

I recently purchased a new Visor for my PinBot. Plastic part only. The old visor plastic is attached to the metal hinge piece via rivets. I don't have the equipment for placing these types of rivets and was instead going to simply use small nuts/washer/bolts with blue loctite. Does anyone happen to know what size holes these are? I need to purchase a drill bit set for drilling out the old rivets on the original metal hinge piece and purchase the hardware listed above.
Any advice on this? Suggestions on type (cobalt/titanium) of drill bit for drilling out the metal rivets and attaching new visor? Any way to remove old rivets without drilling? Any unforeseen problems I will run into?
Thanks!

Be very careful about drilling rivets out of plastic, if they spin they will heat up and melt the surrounding plastic. Not a big deal if you're going to toss the plastic part they were in anyway, but let's say you were riveting into a new visor, didn't clamp down the rivet right, and wanted to try again. Drilling it out could potentially ruin the plastic. I've found a safer method is a Dremel tool with a grinding bit, and then carefully grind off the end that has the washer or metal under it.

#4532 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Be very careful about drilling rivets out of plastic, if they spin they will heat up and melt the surrounding plastic. Not a big deal if you're going to toss the plastic part they were in anyway, but let's say you were riveting into a new visor, didn't clamp down the rivet right, and wanted to try again. Drilling it out could potentially ruin the plastic. I've found a safer method is a Dremel tool with a grinding bit, and then carefully grind off the end that has the washer or metal under it.

Thanks for the heads up. I ended up drilling the rivets out of the old visor that was cracked in pieces and beyond repair. I used a thin carbide drill bit and got the rivets out in a about 2 minutes. After about 2mm of the bottom of the rivet was drilled out the "rolled" portion popped right off. Much easier than I expected and no damage to the original plastic (even though its trash anyways haha).

#4533 3 years ago

Just listed my extemely nice mint conditon Pinbot. PM me if interested. Perfect for those looking to upgrade to a top of the line Pinbot.

Willing to ship mainland if buyer arranges pickup.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109009

#4534 3 years ago

Got another question for the group. My 5A flipper fuse blew. I replaced it and it blew again within a minute or so of playing for the first time.
Think it was just bad fuse, or is this an indication that something else is causing it to blow so quickly?

Thanks!

#4535 3 years ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Got another question for the group. My 5A flipper fuse blew. I replaced it and it blew again within a minute or so of playing for the first time.
Think it was just bad fuse, or is this an indication that something else is causing it to blow so quickly?
Thanks!

Id guess something is wrong with your flipper circuit. Look over your EOS switches and flipper mechs really well. If you have another fuse you may be able to watch it and narrow it down to one side or the other.

#4536 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Id guess something is wrong with your flipper circuit. Look over your EOS switches and flipper mechs really well. If you have another fuse you may be able to watch it and narrow it down to one side or the other.

Agree with checking the EOS. Another good indication of an EOS issue would be if your coil is cooking; it will be significantly hotter than the other flipper coil. The switch is closed normally and should be open when you hit the flipper.

#4537 3 years ago
Quoted from dq13:

Agree with checking the EOS. Another good indication of an EOS issue would be if your coil is cooking; it will be significantly hotter than the other flipper coil. The switch is closed normally and should be open when you hit the flipper.

The right EOS flipper has been sticking... I have tried to gently sand inbetween the contacts to prevent this from happening, seems to be fine when the game is off, but when playing it still does it occasinally. This is probably what is causing it. Is it best to replace EOS or is there a good way to clean to prevent it from happening?

#4538 3 years ago
Quoted from imadork8:

The right EOS flipper has been sticking... I have tried to gently sand inbetween the contacts to prevent this from happening, seems to be fine when the game is off, but when playing it still does it occasinally. This is probably what is causing it. Is it best to replace EOS or is there a good way to clean to prevent it from happening?

Best to just replace. It's an inexpensive part and not a difficult fix; it's one of the first things I did as a newbie (still am a newbie!). Plus it's not something you'll need to do often.

#4539 3 years ago
Quoted from imadork8:

I have tried to gently sand inbetween the contacts

There are 3 types of switches in pinball machines, gold, silver and tungsten. For high current switches like these EOS switches and flipper cabinet switches the contacts are tungsten. Tungsten is a very hard material and needs to be cleaned with a file and a lot of effort. Gently sanding wont do much to fix them.

#4540 3 years ago
Quoted from dq13:

Best to just replace. It's an inexpensive part and not a difficult fix; it's one of the first things I did as a newbie (still am a newbie!). Plus it's not something you'll need to do often.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

There are 3 types of switches in pinball machines, gold, silver and tungsten. For high current switches like these EOS switches and flipper cabinet switches the contacts are tungsten. Tungsten is a very hard material and needs to be cleaned with a file and a lot of effort. Gently sanding wont do much to fix them.

Noted, thank you all! Will get some new switches on order!

#4541 3 years ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Noted, thank you all! Will get some new switches on order!

Unless you know for sure that the flippers have been rebuilt recently, I'd just do a full rebuild. Follow vids guide and you'll have no problems.

Ive never seen anyone disappointed after rebuilding their flippers. New snappy flippers, are happy flippers!!

Here's some helpful links for ya.
VID's Guide:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Big daddy has the rebuild as a Kit, (William's 84-87) here:
http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/ProductPages/FlipperRebuildKits.html

#4542 3 years ago

Was just playing a game and noticed that my drop targets when all dropped do not advance the planets. Anybody ever experience problem.
Drop targets all seem to work fine, just don't register that all 3 have dropped to advance the planets.

Thanks in advance!

#4543 3 years ago

Crisis adverted, found a diode had broke off, couldn't tell it was broke off by looking had to get in there and poke and prod around!

#4544 3 years ago
Quoted from henrydwh:

couldn't tell it was broke off by looking had to get in there and poke and prod around!

Sometimes thats the best way. Especially for diodes in circuit.

#4545 3 years ago

Got kind of a strange problem. The right backbox flashers don't flash. They are on like they should be just don't flash during the "lightning and thunder" sound. checked the resistor board on the backbox door and seems ok. Maybe a relay problem. MPU is new from Vic Tan and is perfect. Thoughts?

#4546 3 years ago
Quoted from Croppie1Kenobi:

Got kind of a strange problem. The right backbox flashers don't flash. They are on like they should be just don't flash during the "lightning and thunder" sound. checked the resistor board on the backbox door and seems ok. Maybe a relay problem. MPU is new from Vic Tan and is perfect. Thoughts?

They should only be lit when they are supposed to flash - IE flashing, but never on steady.

#4547 3 years ago
Quoted from Croppie1Kenobi:

Got kind of a strange problem. The right backbox flashers don't flash. They are on like they should be just don't flash during the "lightning and thunder" sound. checked the resistor board on the backbox door and seems ok. Maybe a relay problem. MPU is new from Vic Tan and is perfect. Thoughts?

Are you using LED flashers? If yes, need to remove the ground or warming resistor from the board that is on the back board.

#4548 3 years ago

Is anyone using Titan rubber on their pinbot, and if so what size ring are you using on the plastic posts on the elevated mini playfield?

#4549 3 years ago

7/16” OD (make sure it’s OD because there is also a 7/16” ID)

Here’s my upper pf:
27) 7/16” OD
2) 2-1/4” ID

B7B7676D-3AFE-4FA7-9800-BF42F36C8C2E (resized).jpegB7B7676D-3AFE-4FA7-9800-BF42F36C8C2E (resized).jpeg
#4550 3 years ago
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

7/16” OD (make sure it’s OD because there is also a 7/16” ID)
Here’s my upper pf:
27) 7/16” OD
2) 2-1/4” ID
[quoted image]

Thanks. Looking forward to completing the rest of my pinbot and bride of pinbot after I just did my Fathom with clear and love it.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
There are 6,055 posts in this topic. You are on page 91 of 122.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-fans-and-owners-club/page/91 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.