Judging from that picture, I would say it is under the play field by the visor motor. I can double check tonight and report back.

A real life Santa!
Thank you for posting this and pm!

Yep, here are pictures of location.

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The new red vortex arrived and it is beautiful. I suppose a rivet press is in my future but...

It came with this red washer. Any idea what it's for?

///Rich

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Thank you!
I will add the 1Amp fuse for the Visor motor to the Tech Chart.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

All .. happy to say that finally we have the Vortex Ramps in and got the flaps on them. We have them in RED (original pinbot), LIGHT BLUE (pinbot or jackbot), and BLACK (jackbot). We have two options - BLUE STEEL or STAINLESS Flaps. These ramps are original WMS tooling, with flaps from the blueprint, and includes the flaps rivetted on the ramp, as well as includes the decals. PPS Pinbot #jackbot
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There should be a post on the other end from that nut. Make sure that post goes into the metal slot on the underside of the ramp.

Thanks for the ramp. I got one last week and it is perfect. And the washer for Cyclone as a bonus. <G>

Any chance that there will ever be for sale the Williams BLUE Parts Catalog? It's nice to have it online but nothing beats hard copy. I'd even pay for a one time right to print for a quality scan.

Thanks for the consideration.

///Rich

What is the price on these?

how much for red

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH

put in "pinbot vortex" for search.

59$ bare and 79$ with decal sheet and either flap installed.

Have located the original tool - now looking at what is required to run it ... right.

It's a little tricky to get the color the same as original ... we will see what can be done.

Pinbot was my first pin and the one I remember playing the most as a kid.

Hoping to join the club again soon and have started picking up some parts.

The Tool is at the plastic company as well as a sample as well as the prints ... so they will work on the process and the color matching and hopefully can get something sorted reasonably soon.

Hey Guys, still learning and fixing up my Pinbot machine. Both the entry ramp switch and exit ramp switches just stopped working (Switches #39 & 40). Generally when this happens, is it due to bad switches, or possibly a fuse since both seemed to stop working about the same time?

Thanks for any advice.

Likely not a fuse. Go into switch test and activate each of those switches individually. Use a ball if possible to simulate real play conditions. Report back - what we're looking for is whether any other switches activate when a switch is closed, and whether the machine sees the switch in question closing.

OK, the entry ramp switch seems to be working, but the exit ramp switch is unresponsive. Tried pressing with my finger and the ball and adjusting and it won't register anything.

Ok. Time to check the switch itself. With machine off, put your meter on ohms, and connect to the switch. Close the switch and see if the meter reads close to zero ohms. If yes, then the switch is working and you may have a wire issue.

If it does not read zero, take a crisp $20 bill and put between the contacts, push the contacts together and pull the bill through. Check again to see if the switch closure now reads zero ohms. If zero ohms, go back into switch test as mentioned above.

If it’s a wire issue, consult your manual, and put your meter from the connector pin in the head to one side of the switch. Do the same for the other side of the switch.

If both wires read good, go from a point on the circuit board to each side of the switch to see if the connector has a bad pin.

Report back

It can also be tricky to gap those ramp switches correctly since you can't access them with the ramp in place, and once you remove the ramp, gap the switches, then re-install the ramp.. it can flex just enough to put your switch back out of adjustment. :/ Takes some trial and error.

Richard

Wow, thank you!! I will get to work and check all this.
I was hoping I was not going to have to remove the ramp, but sounds like I will someotherguy
Thanks again everyone! Will be back as soon as I can do all this.

Got it all fixed! The switch underneath was just bent out a little too far and not making contact. Just slighly bent it back closer and all is good!
Thanks again.
One final question, I'm kind of afraid to ask... Has anyone experience the game just stoppping and restarting mid-play? This has happened a handful of times to me, during a long round. Can't pinpoint excatly when all of them would happen, but this last time it restarted after getting the helmet/visor open for a seond time in one round and getting the ball into one side. Game goes black, and spits the ball out and is back at the start up phase.

Mine would intermittently reset whenever the visor would open or close. I looked and looked for a short or some specific issue but ultimately gave in and re-capped the power supply board and all was well.

That has usually been a power supply issue in my cases. Check the voltages and see how close they are from being too weak. When everything is going wide open and the machine has been on for a while, the old capacitors are just too weak to keep up. A rebuild of the power supply is pretty easy and not too expensive.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/williams11_kits.htm

About 16$ at big daddy. Be patient hes been experiencing a big increase in orders and is doing his best to keep up. Great seller.

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Is there a bushing that is supposed to go between the motor cam and target carrier where the arrow is? Also, in most pictures I find online there are 2 L brackets where circled but they are not on my machine or shown in manual. Do I need them?

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There most definitely is a bushing. Marco has them. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4259
But look closely as it may be there and you are just not seeing it or it may be in the bottom cabinet as it fell off when you took off the motor bracket.

As for the L brackets. You need something there for sure. I think the L keeps the target guide aligned. Those are https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8494

Both cheap enough to keep that drop bank straight and working smoothly.

///Rich

Thanks, I ordered L brackets and bushing and look forward to a much smoother operating drop bank.

Looking for opinions on repairing post hole. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

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CPR is running a great end of year sale and all their Pinbot parts are available.

https://classicplayfields.com/year-end-sale-2020/

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/pinbot-2/
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/pinbot/
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-miscellaneous/pinbotmini/
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/pinbot-4/

Replace the t-nut and put a washer under the post and it may look good enough.

///Rich

I was thinking of filling front hole with JB Woodweld, replace t-nut and reinstall post with washer as suggested. Thanks for suggestion.

Mike

Also, I believe that there is a thin fish-paper shim that is on the back side of the white spacers.

So I checked to see if I had the bushing for the motor/ target bank discussed above and indeed I do not. But after reassembling and turning on, the target bank raises and lowers continuously, no stopping. After pushing the start button, it continues to raise and lower, the ramp also raises and lowers a few times and finally rests in lowered position, and no ball is kicked out to start the game. Any suggestions on where to start?

the limit switches aren't registering if the game doesn't see 'closed' for the visor it assumes it's open so it's cycling it until it sees closed.

Yep, wire got yanked off the switch, quick solder fix. Thanks, still learning my way around.

Pinbot.....Circuits.....Activated......
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Hey all...Finally gearing up to do a playfield swap on my PB. I have Freeplay40 's cool 2-color ramp, but looks like I missed the window on ramp decals?
Nice sanity-maintaining Covid project, I drew the decals in Illustrator. Unfortunately, my printer's black just isn't as deep as it should be.
I'm happy to share the files if anybody wants to print new ramp decals; if you can print them more nicely, just do me a solid and send me a set?
It's really weird that nobody is making repros of these.

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Keep me posted about the topper if you successfully fabricate a reproduction. I'm looking for one.

I would be in for a set, too. Just let me know where to send payment...

I have full sets of all the decals I sell. But I have a partial set let over of just the ramp decals I can send you if you pay shipping. Lmk

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Is that Grumpy's nose???

it would be great if someone could scan those.

They were made high res scans.

I have ten sets left. That are printed and pre cut. No need to scan them

I just knew that, as soon as I put in the work to make the damn things, it would come out that I had, in fact, reinvented the wheel.

For anyone who has installed the CPR mirrored backglass, where did you get the lift channel, etc from?

I used the one on my original translite. I think planetary sells them.

I'm considering the chrome option, but they're pricey.