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(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,463 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 minutes ago by PPS
  • Topic is favorited by 192 Pinsiders

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There are 4463 posts in this topic. You are on page 89 of 90.
#4401 27 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Yeah, I am good with getting an opaque blue but that yellow one seems unobtainable?

Action Pinball has it, but you'd have to buy the whole switch. Sometimes 20 bucks isn't that much if it's the last part you need.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-11177

#4403 18 days ago

And It's finished.

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#4404 18 days ago

Sweet. Please PM me for the ramp source

#4405 13 days ago

I’m still trying to find a good resource for ramp decals.
Any direction appreciated- thanks!

#4406 13 days ago
Quoted from Vino:

I’m still trying to find a good resource for ramp decals.
Any direction appreciated- thanks!

I havent seen them anywhere. Might be better off finding a good scan and making them yourself. I'm going to need some whenever I get around to replacing my ramp as well.

#4407 12 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I havent seen them anywhere. Might be better off finding a good scan and making them yourself. I'm going to need some whenever I get around to replacing my ramp as well.

I was able to remove the originals pretty easily with Goo-Gone.

#4408 11 days ago
Quoted from Toine79:

And It's finished.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks super smooth with the black lockdown bar and rails. Nice!

#4409 11 days ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I was able to remove the originals pretty easily with Goo-Gone.

I just installed a Freeplay40 transparent Red/Blue ramp and I'll take a few pictures once I get it all buttoned up. The short story is it looks even better than I imagined it would be.

But I can say now that my stickers came off easily with a bit of heat from a heat gun. I hit the corners from the bottom and the stickers came up clean with the glue still sticky. Simple and easy!

///rich

#4410 11 days ago

Honestly I like the look of the freeplay40 blue/red ramp too much to put stickers on it. I am leaving it.

PXL_20201117_053154322 (resized).jpgPXL_20201117_053200095 (resized).jpg

(and yes I know two of my targets are reversed)

#4411 10 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I havent seen them anywhere. Might be better off finding a good scan and making them yourself.

Quoted from Freeplay40:

I was able to remove the originals pretty easily with Goo-Gone.

Thanks for the feedback and pms.
Good to know I’m not the only one!

#4412 9 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Honestly I like the look of the freeplay40 blue/red ramp too much to put stickers on it. I am leaving it.

I received my Freeplay40 ramp about 2 weeks ago. It is exquisite and Mark does wonderful work. MUCH better than the original. And the communications and turnaround were both better than anyone would ever want. That said,

Since I got a new lift ramp as well, I decided to do more than just install the ramps. I had a full set of Cliffy's and some new plastic and a set of protectors. I have not done a thorough cleaning and waxing in a long while so although I have had my Pin•Bot for close to 20 years with a 12 year hiatus from my house for my nephews to grow up with, I am still learning. So I took my time over two weeks and finished today. To me it looks great. Not perfect but it plays perfectly and looks great.

I like the way the stickers look on the ramp. Less of a "backstage" look and still cool looking with lots of light shining through. I needed to "adjust" the vortex position a bit but fitment was easy. I also took the opportunity to replace the flasher domes with red on the right and blue on the left and that looks much better although the blue ones look white when the flashers hit. I am trying to figure out how to justify a rivet press for the workshop. <G>

I had lots of warped plastic but a couple of pieces of glass and a heat gun made easy work of that. Of course I took a lot of things apart and tried to keep parts separate but assembly was a bit of a challenge as not only was I not sure of a few things but some posts obviously need replacing. And for those of you out there that are watching and listening, if you put small parts on a freshly waxed playfield, they will slide into places you wish they hadn't.

Figuring the Cliffy's were going in the eye holes I also replaced the red eject hole saucers as the old ones were all cracked. Yes, the holes were worn in the front but I am simply not that brave. I have ejectors too but did not replace them. Yet as the balls are not shooting out as I would like with the new saucers so I suppose ejector rebuilds are now on the list. Any wisdom on whether that will actually help?

I cleaned and waxed the playfield after reading every post in the Vid's guide to cleaning and waxing. The playfield is good but there are some worn spots and lifting mylar, but it works great for me and my grandkids and that is what is important.

The bottom line is that not only did this job provide some distraction from work and life for a couple of hours over two weeks, it was long overdue and I am satisfied with the results.

Thanks Mark at Freeplay40, Cliffy, Vid1900, Marco and everyone who posts here making it easy for those of us that have only one game and who are not a "collector".

And a special shout out to Python for a lasting legacy and Chris at HEP where I have gone through half the posts, to see how it actually should be done.

And here are the results. Thanks for looking.

///Rich

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#4413 9 days ago

Good to know there is a Cliffys option out there! I was hoping this would materialize

#4414 9 days ago
Quoted from dq13:

Good to know there is a Cliffys option out there! I was hoping this would materialize

I sent him an email through his website and he quickly responded. Everything fit perfectly.

///Rich

#4415 9 days ago

And it's done!

Pretty happy how it turned out. Game is fast, changing to WPC style flippers makes them almost too powerful. Real love/hate relationship with System 11s.

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#4416 8 days ago
Quoted from FelixTCat:

Why do I have a black vortex ?
[quoted image]

Because the red one you had broke and someone used a JackBot black one.

BUT, I am not sure that I was just not paying attention but Planetary Pinball posted the red vortex ramps and I bought one today as I too have a black ramp.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-8029-RED&Category_Code=GS-1796

$59 no decals or flap but a bargain as I have not seen them for sale before particularly from the original molds.

///Rich

#4417 8 days ago

59 bucks is a steal.

#4418 8 days ago
Quoted from RichWolfson:

$59 no decals or flap but a bargain as I have not seen them for sale before particularly from the original molds.
///Rich

They have the decals and ramp flap:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-1402-X

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-8364

#4419 8 days ago

Yes. I already had the decals and the ramp flap can come off my original red one. It will be an excuse to make a rivet press. Can't have too many tools don't ya know. <G>

Interesting they also had a stainless flap. Any advantage in that?

///Rich

#4420 8 days ago

Anyone have a list or spreadsheet to convert PinBot to full LED with red/blue color scheme?

Checking before I go and create one, thanks.

#4421 7 days ago
Quoted from dancosta:

Anyone have a list or spreadsheet to convert PinBot to full LED with red/blue color scheme?
Checking before I go and create one, thanks.

Sorry for the photo that’s all i have

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#4422 7 days ago

As for the red and blue on PF, I think it' s quite easy I think .....

#4423 7 days ago

Thank you!

Yes, for the PF I was just going to replace the white GI with Red/Blue.

#4424 7 days ago
Quoted from alveolus:

Has anyone successfully installed side mirrors in a Pinbot?
My cabinet has very little room between the cabinet and playfield. I’m not certain I could fit them even if I decided to try.

yes

#4425 7 days ago
Quoted from dancosta:

Yes, for the PF I was just going to replace the white GI with Red/Blue.

The pinbot i bought has this set up. Red/blue on each side. I hate it.

When i eventually shop it, i'll go back to white in the gi. I feel like with the red/blue its too dark.

#4426 7 days ago

Hey Team, need a little help. Just picked up a Pinbot machine. This is my first pinball machine, and am super excited about it!
Played it about 6 times and the left ramp ended up getting stuck in the up position. Opened it up and gently put it back down. The machine was giving a swtch 40 (entry ramp error) to I tinkered with that switch a little and it has stopped giving the error, but the game still will not start. Seems to boot up just fine, but when you hit the start button it just adds another player until you get all 4 added and the game will not start.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Cheers!

#4427 7 days ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Hey Team, need a little help. Just picked up a Pinbot machine. This is my first pinball machine, and am super excited about it!
Played it about 6 times and the left ramp ended up getting stuck in the up position. Opened it up and gently put it back down. The machine was giving a swtch 40 (entry ramp error) to I tinkered with that switch a little and it has stopped giving the error, but the game still will not start. Seems to boot up just fine, but when you hit the start button it just adds another player until you get all 4 added and the game will not start.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Cheers!

Do you have both balls in the ball trough?

#4428 6 days ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Do you have both balls in the ball trough?

Yep. Not sure what is going on. Here is a start up video - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y88ZeggJA8bbSLaB8

It is recognizing the 2 balls in the trough because when I remove them it asks for them. When I put a ball down the main shoot, the firing pin does not engage to knock it over into the ball trough.

#4429 6 days ago

Drop a ball in the shooter and and see if the game plays.

#4430 6 days ago
Quoted from henrydwh:

Drop a ball in the shooter and and see if the game plays.

Just tried that and it just sits there, does not fire over into the trough.

#4431 6 days ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Yep. Not sure what is going on. Here is a start up video - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y88ZeggJA8bbSLaB8
It is recognizing the 2 balls in the trough because when I remove them it asks for them. When I put a ball down the main shoot, the firing pin does not engage to knock it over into the ball trough.

The face flashers should be lighting during game start. Assuming those were working prior to this issue - I am guessing your solenoid fuse on the power supply has blown.

#4432 6 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

The face flashers should be lighting during game start. Assuming those were working prior to this issue - I am guessing your solenoid fuse on the power supply has blown.

Yep, everything was working just fine prior to this. Any help in pointing me to the fuse I should check/order to replace? Thanks for the help everyone, rookie here!

Found this fuse, looks blown compared to another one. Is it blown?
But looking at the manual, there are no 1AMP fuses listed in there.

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#4433 6 days ago

Remove your back glass and check the fuse on the power supply.

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#4434 6 days ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Yep, everything was working just fine prior to this. Any help in pointing me to the fuse I should check/order to replace? Thanks for the help everyone, rookie here!
Found this fuse, looks blown compared to another one. Is it blown?
But looking at the manual, there are no 1AMP fuses listed in there.
[quoted image]

You can't tell if a fuse is good by visual inspection. You need to remove the fuse from the holder and measure continuity across the fuse with a multimeter. Open is bad, closed/continuity is good. Fast acting and slow blow fuse locations/details need to be followed. For replacement fuses you can go up in voltage rating but never go up in amps and never change the type (fast vs slo). Henry has left you some good pics of the power supply fuses to check.

#4435 6 days ago

I just ran into a bad 20 amp fuse on another game. Just looking at it you would swear it was ok. Was open right at the end cap. Could pull it right out and see where it was detached. A visual inspection means nothing unless you can see that it is burned open and bad. If not you need to test.

#4436 6 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

The pinbot i bought has this set up. Red/blue on each side. I hate it.
When i eventually shop it, i'll go back to white in the gi. I feel like with the red/blue its too dark.

Pinbot such a dark playfield that it benefits from white G.I. Adding lighted star posts does help as well as accent the red/blue theme.

E5B70BCC-1BC8-42F5-91BC-0CA53B430EB6 (resized).jpeg
#4437 5 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

You can't tell if a fuse is good by visual inspection. You need to remove the fuse from the holder and measure continuity across the fuse with a multimeter. Open is bad, closed/continuity is good. Fast acting and slow blow fuse locations/details need to be followed. For replacement fuses you can go up in voltage rating but never go up in amps and never change the type (fast vs slo). Henry has left you some good pics of the power supply fuses to check.

Found a bad fuse, got some new ones on the way to test tomorrow! Thanks again!

#4438 5 days ago

Actually got one more question for the group because I cannot seem to find the right part to fix the ramp. Someone had used a bulky screw and nut for the ramp raising arm (I can't imagine this is the correct hardware for this area). It's very bulky it seems to be getting stuck occasionally when trying to rais and lower. Any thoughts on what I can replace this with to make a little more low profile.

Screen Shot 2020-11-24 at 2.11.57 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-11-24 at 2.12.03 PM copy (resized).png
#4439 5 days ago

I think that's right. I just looked at my pics and it's the same bolt and nut pattern. Really depends on what it is getting stuck on.

#4440 5 days ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I think that's right. I just looked at my pics and it's the same bolt and nut pattern. Really depends on what it is getting stuck on.

Wow, seems excesseive! Thanks for checking. Will tinker with it some more!

#4441 5 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I havent seen them anywhere. Might be better off finding a good scan and making them yourself. I'm going to need some whenever I get around to replacing my ramp as well.

These ramp decals?

0DDF1C8B-94AC-4E84-B0CC-BED81CBF6A8C (resized).jpeg
#4443 5 days ago

I had some scanned an recreated for a project I was working on. I had a few extra made but only one set left. If a few people are interested I can have some more made.

#4444 5 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I had some scanned an recreated for a project I was working on. I had a few extra made but only one set left. If a few people are interested I can have some more made.

Put me in for one!

///Rich

#4445 5 days ago

If anyone has a NOS die-cut set to scan, they give you a more accurate die line to cut them on... makes them more like OG and you don't have to guess where to cut with your Exacto

#4446 5 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

I had some scanned an recreated for a project I was working on. I had a few extra made but only one set left. If a few people are interested I can have some more made.

I’m up for a set...

#4447 5 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

If anyone has a NOS die-cut set to scan, they give you a more accurate die line to cut them on... makes them more like OG and you don't have to guess where to cut with your Exacto

These are pre cut

#4448 5 days ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

These are pre cut

Awesome

#4449 5 days ago

I'd be interested in a set too.

#4450 5 days ago
Quoted from imadork8:

Yep, everything was working just fine prior to this. Any help in pointing me to the fuse I should check/order to replace? Thanks for the help everyone, rookie here!
Found this fuse, looks blown compared to another one. Is it blown?
But looking at the manual, there are no 1AMP fuses listed in there.
[quoted image]

Where did you find this fuse?
From the picture it is hard to tell (for me) where it is located.
If I know where, I can add it to my Tech Chart for Pin•Bot.

Peter

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