Any tips to clean this?

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Do you have access to a commercial mold remover? Use that first then I would sand and repaint after the mold is gone.

Thanks.

Where can I find the black speaker tissu?
Mine is broken?

Does it matter when I spray paint the grounding wire in the backbox or does it lose it efficiency?

Thanks

If you spray the ground wire in the backbox, make sure any place where you can make/break an electrical connection is not painted. An example is where the ground braid is connected together by the wingnut in the center front of the backbox.

Black speaker cloth can be sourced from audio suppliers. In the USA one would be Parts Express as they have materials to custom build speaker cabinets. Really you can use any kind of cloth but something specifically made for speakers should be better in the end.

For the ground wire - I would pull it out then sand the inside of the cabinet and paint. The length of the braid is short and it's only staples that hold it in. Of course the choice is yours.

Jeremy

https://www.parts-express.com/mellotone-premium-black-speaker-grill-cloth-yard-64-wide--260-332

Finished my backbox. Cleaned the inside and painted the outside.
New speaker tissu.

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Could somebody help me with a picture of his Pinbot for thus specific area?
I'm missing a ball guide lane for sure but the flasher and GI are looking strange in my opinion.

Thanks

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My tear down pics looks about the same.

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Thanks.

Could you share me your teardown pictures?
You removed mylar or kept it on the playfield?

PM sent.

I did but I would not recommend it unless necessary.

Beautiful. What kind of white did you use as GI? Matching colors under the inserts?

Ready for hardtop

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So happy to be back in the club!

What has been a reliable resource for replacement ramp decals (top left NASA etc) in the past?
I’ll dig through the thread but if anyone has direction I’d appreciate it.

Could somebody help me with the posts / rubbers on those specific locations please?

I see several setups: bumpers, postsleeves and starposts.

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GI bulbs are Comet 2smd cool white frosted

Inserts are all original incandescents except for color matching comets under the big rainbow block in front of pinbot. (I ran out of bulbs for the rest of the inserts and haven’t got back to it yet)

Backbox are comets color matched as tasteful as possible

Edited. Answered my own question. Doh

Hey All! This machine is driving me batty. I replaced some solenoids and the machine played perfectly for about 4 hours, then the next time I turned it on it goes goofy. When you push the credit button it starts playing the in-game music but the rest of the machine is still in attract mode. No flippers, no ball in or anything. I thought that it was the RAM chip, but I swapped in a rottendog board from my high speed and it does the exact same thing. Power supply is original, so I’ll check voltages tonight. Just very odd. Can incorrect voltage cause the ROM chips to do weird things?

Incorrect voltage (low or high) can cause all sorts of things and is typically one of the first things you check. Otherwise you may be hunting for problems that don't exist.

Have the caps been changed out?

Not since I’ve owned it (about a year now). I’ll check voltages as you and Robotworkshop have suggested and report back. Thanks!

If those caps are original then they are 35 years old at this point. Caps and the high voltage section are easy to do and you should consider it as if there is any wavering of the voltages you get where you are.

I am no expert but I do know capacitors can't be good after 35 years.

///Rich

Get a big daddy power supply cap kit. Takes literally a half hour to change them all out. There’s only like 8 or so.

So, I swapped over the rottendog power supply from my High Speed just to see if that might be the quick fix. Exact same behavior from the machine. So now it’s got a new power supply and a new MPU board...still same problems. ROM chips are still original, if that makes any difference at all...

Look closely at the cables? Change them if you can, but if you have replacements to test with....

///Rich

Which cables are you referring to, the ones from the power supply to the MPU?

Maybe I should also check/replace all the fuses...I haven’t done that yet.

When you turn on the power switch, does the visor open and close? If yes run a switch test on the visor switches.

Yes, visor opens on power up. All switches seem to be registering during edge test. Switch test shows the appropriate switches activated. Have flippers during tests, nada when I push credit button to start game.

Yes. You clearly disconnected them from the Power Supply when you changed it. But your issue is intermittent.

OTOH, I will now take a step back and leave this to Grumpy (the Great!)

///Rich

Then you lost your freeplay setting. This can happen if the batteries went dead or were changed. This can also happen if there was a short that pulled the five volts down briefly, like a CPU reset or cracked header pin on the power cable. Drop a quarter in and try to start a game.

MANTO1975 Reach out to this guy:

Hello,
I made a new Pin*Bot topper for myself since my original melted and decided to make a few more for you folks on Pinside. Here's my ad on Pinside;
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/98819

Ready for hardtop install

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THANK YOU GRUMPY! I feel like a ninny, but that was in fact the issue. This machine has always been set on free play so I guess I never knew how it behaved when it is set up for taking coin.
Interesting side note, when I dropped in a quarter nothing happened...so I opened the door and realized that the coin mechs had been stripped out. I’ve opened that door a hundred times and never realized it!

Before I swap the old power supply back in this thing and return the new rottendog supply to my High Speed...I’d like an opinion on whether to put the original power supply in or swap in the original power supply from High Speed. The coating over the traces on the Pinbot supply are toast and the jumper wire seems like a bit of a hack. Several of the solder points are pretty sloppy too. I believe that I can just solder in the old Molex connector for the power, and everything else looks to be the same? Visually anyway, the HS power supply looks to be in much better condition so I just wanted to check and see if there are any red flags with making the change.

Here are photos for comparison, with the Pinbot supply being on the right.

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Pics not the best but I can see that the HS supply has newer caps and a bridge rectifier. The Pinbot supply is original but is a system 9 power supply not a system 11. If it was me I would put HS back in HS and rebuild the system 9 supply and modify it to work in a system 11. Save the RD supply for a spare.

Ok sounds good. Thank you for the advice, as always!

Hi there, folks

New to the Pinbot club and I have two questions for the group. My machine is in pretty tip top shape, but that plastic to the right of the solar ramp is cracked (as seems to be very common with that plastic). Anyone have any repair solutions that will hold up to abuse over time? It's such a short strip of plastic that's broken right by the arm that lifts the ramp... I'm not sure what the best solution may be.

Also, anyone have tips for removal of the bumper play field where the ball exits from the solar value ramp? I see some posts with screws, but others look like they're held on by posts or something.

Thanks in advance~!

Sign me up batman. Love this game.

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The only real way to protect that plastic is with something like the pinbit protectors. That is a hard piece to replace or repair because it goes all the way up in there and everything needs to come off to replace it.
https://pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_44&products_id=248

That upper playfield is not too hard to get off. There is that one post on the upper right side that needs to come off, but the rest are screws.

Still busy with cleaning and rebuilding my playfield.
During my cleaning proces of the inserts I've found that all the flashers under the Sun and Increase Energy value inserts are 24v bulbs.

Flachers behind the eyes on the backbox and under the eyes on playfield are also 24v bulbs which is normal.

Also the flashers on the playfield in the orange domes are 24v bulbs.

I want to replace all my bulbs with leds and already cut the heat transistors on the flashers boards.

I thought that only the 4 eyes flashers were 24V?
Thanks for any advice.

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I believe all the flashers use the same lamp voltage except they have some that are bayonet and others that use the clip style base.

Someone might have put the wrong bulbs in there or did it on purpose as the sun insert was subject to meltdown if locked on.

They would have had to have swapped a bit of power wiring to do this so look for capped off +24v wires or even soldered/heat shrunk wiring if they continued the chain that way.

I assume I can also test it with DMM in an empt socket?

The visor has 2 crossed arms that are connected to the target carrier and control the raising of the visor with the drop of the target bank. Look to make sure they have been put back in place, because thats the only thing that would cause the Visor NOT to open when the target carrier decends into the playfield.

Yes