(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

By wayout440

10 years ago


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  • 6,058 posts
  • 464 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 days ago by Neight
  • Topic is favorited by 232 Pinsiders

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There are 6,058 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 122.
#4201 4 years ago
Quoted from Vandy89:

Anyone know where you can purchase these target faces under the visor? I don’t need the complete switch, just the faces.
Thanks[quoted image]

I believe Pinball Resource might be a good option for those faces

#4202 4 years ago
Quoted from Vandy89:

Anyone know where you can purchase these target faces under the visor? I don’t need the complete switch, just the faces.
Thanks[quoted image]

I thought about doing these. The circles would work and look great with light behind them, but the rectangles dont have enough colors.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-23149-target-blade-p-55.html

#4203 4 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I thought about doing these. The circles would work and look great with light behind them, but the rectangles dont have enough colors.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-23149-target-blade-p-55.html

Curious how you'd plan to get light behind those translucent targets when the carrier behind them is solid black plastic?

Richard

#4204 4 years ago
Quoted from someotherguy:

Curious how you'd plan to get light behind those translucent targets when the carrier behind them is solid black plastic?
Richard

The light behind the circle targets is what I meant. The rectangles could not be lit up.

#4205 4 years ago

Can someone show me where these two wires need soldered? Looks like manual shows right insert board flasher. But I'm a little bit lost figuring out where the solder points are located.

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#4206 4 years ago

They may be extra wires

#4207 4 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Can someone show me where these two wires need soldered? Looks like manual shows right insert board flasher. But I'm a little bit lost figuring out where the solder points are located.[quoted image][quoted image]

I think some Pinbots came with extra wires because they were about to go opto switches.

1 week later
#4208 4 years ago

Does anyone sell this decal page anymore? Someone made a run of this 2 years ago but they were sold quickly. Both of these decals are ripped on my Pinbot.

128621a81e8851c4eb025015923090ac62f1372e (resized).jpg128621a81e8851c4eb025015923090ac62f1372e (resized).jpg
#4209 4 years ago

This game needed a ton of work. Finally got it done, looks and plays great!

Pinbotpic (resized).jpegPinbotpic (resized).jpeg
#4210 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkeye11:

This game needed a ton of work. Finally got it done, looks and plays great![quoted image]

where did you get that decal for the top of the chest target? I really like that.

#4211 4 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

where did you get that decal for the top of the chest target? I really like that.

Friend of mine bought it years ago. So not sure. I think Mezel used to sell them, but don't think they do anymore.

#4212 4 years ago
Quoted from truemagoo102:

Does anyone sell this decal page anymore? Someone made a run of this 2 years ago but they were sold quickly. Both of these decals are ripped on my Pinbot.[quoted image]

I bought a complete set of decals from pinsider Orangegsx a couple months ago. PM him and see if he has any left.

#4213 4 years ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=319
Those might be the clear plastic ones and the usual metal mini posts. ??

[quoted image]

Has anyone ever changed out all the mini posts on the mini playfeild to metal? How did you like it? Got any pics?

#4214 4 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

where did you get that decal for the top of the chest target? I really like that.

Those were made by Pinsider pinball_customs several years ago.

#4215 4 years ago
Quoted from phalcon_2600:

Has anyone ever changed out all the mini posts on the mini playfeild to metal? How did you like it? Got any pics?

Not sure why you’d want to.

#4216 4 years ago
Quoted from phalcon_2600:

Has anyone ever changed out all the mini posts on the mini playfeild to metal? How did you like it? Got any pics?

No, but did mine in chrome with clear rubbers....looks good.

#4217 4 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

No, but did mine in chrome with clear rubbers....looks good.

Got a pic of how it looks?

#4218 4 years ago

I do, but I’ll get some better ones today. In the light and off, and dark room and turned on.

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#4219 4 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

I do, but I’ll get some better ones today. In the light and off, and dark room and turned on.[quoted image]

That looks cool! thanks for posting. I have one of the CPR mini playfields with the mirror effect. So I think I will do that to mine too. I think the chrome will look good with the mirror effect on the graphics.

#4220 4 years ago

Lit shot

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#4221 4 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Lit shot[quoted image]

I like how you lit the ramps. I might have to do that to mine.

#4222 4 years ago

Free play 40 transparent ramp with comet matrix strips in behind and a pinduino strip on top. Makes a nice effect.

#4223 4 years ago

I'm thinking that it wouldn't suck to join the club...I've rarely seen projects.

What are the game-specific things to look out for on this pin?

#4224 4 years ago
Quoted from ss-pinball:

I'm thinking that it wouldn't suck to join the club...I've rarely seen projects.
What are the game-specific things to look out for on this pin?

I think the biggest thing for me is a blown out light grid. Although, there is a pretty nice decal available.

Make sure the visor functions properly. Other than that, not much to it. Check ramp flap works as it should.

#4225 4 years ago

Start with:
Board issues of course
Spiral ramp in good shape (often cracked at top)
Broken plastics, esp the upper right beside lift ramp
Visor mech in good working order.
Most had Mylar in the middle so playfield wear usually not too bad.

#4226 4 years ago

.....I think the cats have it

#4227 4 years ago

This may seem weird to ask...
I love PinBot and have played it on location/at shows 3-4 times, maybe 40 games.
I've played the new Stranger Things pin on location about the same amount.

The obvious similarity is the visor shot/Demogorgon shot.
For those of you who are more familiar with both pins are there other similarities?

#4228 4 years ago

Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane

Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.

All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.

Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.

Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.

I'm stumped.

#4229 4 years ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane
Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.
All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.
Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.
Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.
I'm stumped.

Did you test q44?

#4230 4 years ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane
Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.
All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.
Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.
Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.
I'm stumped.

Great detective work so far, and I agree you're at a bit of a head scratcher.

did you check the switch with your finger, or with a ball?

I have found switches that trigger reliably with my finger are intermittent when triggered with a ball. I've also found the contacts get dirty and can cause some intermittent operation, you can run a dollar bill through there and get the gunk off.

If you take the wires off the switch and touch them together, does the edge trigger?

#4231 4 years ago

Duplicate post

#4232 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Did you test q44?

Q44 is with in spec aka tested fine

#4233 4 years ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane
Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.
All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.
Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.
Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.
I'm stumped.

You might have a broken wire in the switch matrix. The rows/column are daisy chained together under the playfield. If the wire breaks upstream, the downstream switches won't work. You can run a continuity check from the bad switch to the board connectors to see if its the row or column, then inspect all the wires/soldering on that color wire on all switches in that column or row.

#4234 4 years ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Game: Pinbot
Trouble: The ball will not eject into the shooter lane
Was playing fine started new game and it would not eject into the shooter lane.
All balls accounted for, I then performed a Switch Edge check, all check fine with the exception of Trough #2, which does not register. All other in that area do.
Checked switch and it works properly with DVM, I checked the diode it's operational.
Backbox, confirmed all connections in good order. Q44 for this switch is within spec.
I'm stumped.

Is the Visor going through its entire cycle? If it doesn't read the visor up and visor down it wont kick a ball out. I had this issue and found I had a broken visor down switch... worth looking at.

#4235 4 years ago

Any help on this would be appreciated. My target bank and lift ramp, Only reset after another coil fires. Just rebuilt them they were doing this before I starter. New switches, springs, coil sleeves and a good cleaning. Is what I have done so far. Is this a bad relay board? Thanks

#4236 4 years ago
Quoted from Twilight1:

Any help on this would be appreciated. My target bank and lift ramp, Only reset after another coil fires. Just rebuilt them they were doing this before I starter. New switches, springs, coil sleeves and a good cleaning. Is what I have done so far. Is this a bad relay board? Thanks

The ramp will drop after another playfield switch is hit (not the target underneath the ramp) to prevent the ball from being trapped under the ramp. The target bank is similar to prevent ball traps; once another playfield switch is hit after mutliball ends, the game knows that the ball is (likely) not in the visor and will raise the bank.

#4237 4 years ago

So it sounds like it working properly then. I just thought after the ramp timed out it would reset. But it does after a coil or switch is hit same as the target bank. I Must be getting old didn’t think my old pinbot did this. Thanks

#4238 4 years ago

Good evening, I was able to resolve my trough #2 switch issue. I was not getting continuity on the Row to the back box. white/red wire. I Started going switch to switch and discovered one of the wires on the left drop target had broken free of the solder, it appeared to be connected but it wasn't. Just a few strands were all that had been holding it for who knows how long. Stripped it back and tinned, now I have Trough #2 working.

In short, it took some basic troubleshooting beyond where I was thinking at the time.

#4239 4 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

You might have a broken wire in the switch matrix. The rows/column are daisy chained together under the playfield. If the wire breaks upstream, the downstream switches won't work. You can run a continuity check from the bad switch to the board connectors to see if its the row or column, then inspect all the wires/soldering on that color wire on all switches in that column or row.

BINGO!

#4240 4 years ago

Playball!

#4241 4 years ago

Yeah man, those little light-gauge yellow wires are forever breaking. Whenever I restore a game I just replace them while I have the harness out, they SUCK!

#4242 3 years ago

I had the issue where the machine would intermittently reset when the visor would open or close. I never was able to pinpoint the issue. The motor switches worked fine. All my voltages were good. I went with the prevailing wisdom and pulled the power board, reflowed all the header pins and replaced all the caps.

Now several dozen plays in with no resets!

Thought I would post for anyone with a similar problem down the road.

#4243 3 years ago

Has anyone successfully installed side mirrors in a Pinbot?

My cabinet has very little room between the cabinet and playfield. I’m not certain I could fit them even if I decided to try.

#4244 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

OK, so I've switched my PinBot over to LED flashers, and they are pretty kickass. The sling domes are really punchy now, and the sun insert is SUPER bright, which I'm really liking. Only problem is, now when the visor opens, it's kind of anticlimactic. I have some ideas about how to make it more thrilling, but it sure would be easier if the bulbs in there weren't those stupid 1251s, running at 24v. Poking around, I found this tidbit:
"To replace these #1251 lamps by 12V-LED flashers I used several 7812 voltage regulators under the playfield and behind the insert board to lower the SOL.B+ to 12V for the LED flashers. (Instead of that you may add a matching resistor to form a voltage divider)"
Sounds great! But I don't understand where you'd wire them in. It can't be all that hard, and it's a $2 Radio Shack run to boot.
Here's my vision: put ultraviolet bulbs in there, and run a small strip of UV LEDs under the visor plastic, maybe with a plastic shield so that it isn't glaring the player right in the face. Have the whole interior flooded with blacklight (red + blue = purple, get it?). All those things can be had in 12V, but it's diffifcult/impossible to find them in 24V. I've only found one source for 1251 LEDs, and nothing for 24V strips which aren't sold in large, expensive rolls.
How do we add those voltage regulators?

Here was my idea.

For each side I re-wired the two visor flashers in series with an added star post flasher, also in series. These 3 flashers were wired in parallel with the original saucer flasher with allowed me to leave the flasher resistor boards unmolested. So 8 flashers total, 4 for each side. I am quite pleased with the result.

#4245 3 years ago

Just listed an unused set of Cliffy's...

SOLD!
Mod - For Sale
New (selling multiple, business) - “Bought these but never installed them and don't have Pinbot anymore. Brand new and still in the bag! It will ship USPS and should only be a couple dollars.”
2020-04-27
Seattle, WA
50
Archived after: 0 days
Viewed: 42 times
Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

#4246 3 years ago

I hooked up a Polk 10 external sub to Pinbot and I can confidently say that if you are as big a fan of Pinbot’s sound and music as I am, you will be very pleased.

#4247 3 years ago

I added some under-cabinet LED strips to jazz up the lighting a bit. I tied in to the topper flashers to make it dynamic.

#4248 3 years ago

You know the feeling: Everything is set up perfectly. The chest skillshot is running. You're holding the ball safely on your favorite flipper, time it right, shoot the ball and hit the lit column (or row) of the chest matrix. You see it clearly, but but the Bot is a jerk and does not open the visor for you. Did you miss after all? Or is the switch broken? But no, if you mange to look quickly there are now four lamps lit in the matrix, two in the skillshot column and two in the column immediately to its left (but never to its right).

What's going on is the most annoying bug in the Pin Bot software that I am aware of. It made me swear at the game in the arcades in the 80s and it really started bugging me when I got the game a few years ago. The bug is related to what happens when you hit the skillshot target together with one of its neighbors. If the neighbor has a lower switch number than the skillshot target, then the skillshot will not register even though you did hit the correct target as well. If the neighbor has a higher switch number, it will. So if the orange column is lit during the skillshot you get the skillshot when you hit the orange target alone, the orange and green targets together, but not if you hit the orange and blue targets together. This is clearly unfair.

If/when your skills are up to it you can compensate for this software bug by aiming slightly to the right of the "teeth" targets. Alternatively, I have implemented a software fix. I have now made a few useful mods to the software that don't change the game rules. Other bug fixes. A ball saver. A way to turn off background sound with the flipper buttons while a ball is waiting in the shooter lane. An option to let you disable lock stealing with the flipper buttons while adding players on a multi-player game. I am considering ways to get these mods into the community. Pinfest might have been a great opportunity.

#4249 3 years ago

+1 for ball save!!

#4250 3 years ago

Just put up my very nice Pinbot if anyone wants to join the club.

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