(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by kciaccio
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There are 4207 posts in this topic. You are on page 84 of 85.
#4151 41 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I still get 2.1VDC once it is severed.

Was this the lead still attached to the chip or the circuit board?

Quoted from Aniraf:

Also I read 2.1VDC on the cut leg (input).

You read this on pin 5?

pasted_image (resized).png
#4152 40 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Was this the lead still attached to the chip or the circuit board?

You read this on pin 5?[quoted image]

The chip is oriented upside down from that picture according to the pin 1 dot. I get the 2.1 read on the leg which is still in the circuit board. Pin 5 was reading 0 I believe.

#4153 40 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Pin 5 was reading 0 I believe.

If U-49 pin 5 is Low (0.8 volts and below) then pin 6 should read the same. Check this upper part of the cut lead to know if the chip is good. The lower part of the cut lead is connected to the circuit board and U-45 and SR-20. If you read 2.1 volts when it should be 5 volts, then cut the lead #2 on U-45. Then retest the voltage.

#4154 40 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If U-49 pin 5 is Low (0.8 volts and below) then pin 6 should read the same. Check this upper part of the cut lead to know if the chip is good. The lower part of the cut lead is connected to the circuit board and U-45 and SR-20. If you read 2.1 volts when it should be 5 volts, then cut the lead #2 on U-45. Then retest the voltage.

Ok, I’ll get over there this afternoon and let you know. I’ll take pictures to confirm I am cutting the right leads.

Thank you again!!

#4155 40 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I’ll take pictures to confirm I am cutting the right leads.

All chip pins are counted the same way. Find the notch and count counter clockwise around the chip.

cp (resized).png
#4156 38 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

All chip pins are counted the same way. Find the notch and count counter clockwise around the chip.[quoted image]

Ok, I get 3.1VDC on lead 5, 0VDC on lead 6 and 2.1 on the leg stuck into the board.

I cut lead 2 on U45 and nothing changed over on U49.

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#4157 38 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I cut lead 2 on U45 and nothing changed over on U49.

Here is one of the 6 special solenoids circuits. The 7407 is U-49, the 7402 is U-45. The red stars are the cut pins you have made. So when you test the circuit board trace, it should read at 5 volts if SR-20 is good.

ss (resized).PNG
#4158 38 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Here is one of the 6 special solenoids circuits. The 7407 is U-49, the 7402 is U-45. The red stars are the cut pins you have made. So when you test the circuit board trace, it should read at 5 volts if SR-20 is good.[quoted image]

What is SR-20? Is that another IC? Assuming you checked my work there, it looks like that must be bad correct? Also, is there a way to test the 5 volt line just to make sure something really stupid isn’t happening?

#4159 38 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What is SR-20?

It is a number of resistors contained in a SIP package. The one pictured is a bussed resistor pack where one side of each resistor is connected to a common pin marked with a dot most of the time.

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#4160 38 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Also, is there a way to test the 5 volt line

Find SR-20 and test pin 1 the common pin. It should read 5 volts.

#4161 37 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Find SR-20 and test pin 1 the common pin. It should read 5 volts.

SR-20 is 5V on pin 1. Wtf does that mean?

#4162 37 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Wtf does that mean?

But what does the other pins read?

#4163 37 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

But what does the other pins read?

In order of the pins.

5
.1
.1
3.6
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1

#4164 35 days ago

I should also ask, where are you seeing that schematic grumpy? I don't see anything in the manual that illustrates that circuit.

#4165 34 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I should also ask, where are you seeing that schematic

The top of page 28 in the manual.

Quoted from Aniraf:

5
.1
.1
3.6
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1
2.1

All of these are bad but pin 1. Either SR-20 is bad or something crazy is going on here.

#4166 34 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The top of page 28 in the manual.

All of these are bad but pin 1. Either SR-20 is bad or something crazy is going on here.

Any way to work backwards and test what's going to the SR-20? I'm super close to pulling the trigger on a rottendog board, even though it will crush my potential profits on this machine :/.

#4167 34 days ago

With the power off measure the resistance from pin one to pin two. Then measure the resistance from pin one to pin three, and so on. What do you get.

#4168 34 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

With the power off measure the resistance from pin one to pin two. Then measure the resistance from pin one to pin three, and so on. What do you get.

Will do...and if I want to order some new ones...https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5019-09362-00?

Are there better ones? You always seem to know which ones are better .

#4169 33 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

With the power off measure the resistance from pin one to pin two. Then measure the resistance from pin one to pin three, and so on. What do you get.

Pin 1 to all over pins. Is this this broken?

4.1
2.5
4.5
4.5
4.6
3.8
4.5
2.6
4.5
4.5

#4170 33 days ago

Yes they can crack causing all sorts of stuff. There is no better version of this.

#4172 32 days ago

Didn’t fix it. The resistor was good after I pulled it out of the circuit. I put the other chips and the new resistor back in, no change.

#4173 32 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I put the other chips and the new resistor back in, no change.

You got something strange going on there. You may have to send it to me.

#4174 31 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You got something strange going on there. You may have to send it to me.

There is a repair guy in town with a test setup. I’m going to go over there and have him take a look. If that doesn’t work I will gladly send it over.

#4175 31 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I’m going to go over there and have him take a look.

Keep everyone informed.

#4176 27 days ago

It is not the board. Everything tested correctly.

#4177 26 days ago

Ok, got it back in and for some reason everything is working…except my analog sound is making a loud buzzing noise. :/

#4178 26 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is not the board. Everything tested correctly.

Very strange.

#4179 26 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Ok, got it back in and for some reason everything is working…except my analog sound is making a loud buzzing noise. :/

This is the ghost in the machine syndrome... when it happens to me, I try and remember EVERYTHING that I did when I removed/disturbed the harnesses and pulled out the board, especially any screws or metal to metal contact points, routing of audio cables and power lines and making sure they don’t cross over each other or are back to their factory location (after years of maintenance, though, you have to rely on us old farts with Pinbots that were taken out of mainstream play 25 years ago for some pics of original cable routing). I then turn on sound test and start wiggling and pressing any mounting point, wire bundle, or other suspected culprit. If it gets worst or better, or crackles or sputters, you now have some location that you know may need insulated, moved or further checked. But one note, Pinbot creates sound from both the CPU and the sound board. So check the audio cables that come from the CPU board. IJ15 and IJ16 in the top left of the CPU board. Good luck.

Oh and check the shield braid on analog audio cable is still soldered to the shield pins on the connectors. They have a tendency to break loose with mechanical disturbance and pulling them off the connector jacks.

#4180 24 days ago

Ramp entrance and exit switches. Neither of mine work, I've removed the ramp and do not get continuity no matter what I do. I've cleaned with a piece of paper still no continuity.

Any reason I can't replace these with a micro switch?

#4181 24 days ago
Quoted from cshelden:

Ramp entrance and exit switches. Neither of mine work, I've removed the ramp and do not get continuity no matter what I do. I've cleaned with a piece of paper still no continuity.
Any reason I can't replace these with a micro switch?

Nope. Have fun. But have you checked the ramp harness is plugged in under the play field first? I went down this path once. After replacing the ramp, I thought I had plugged it back in. Would have bet money on it. Would have lost it, too. But that was my senior moment, certainly at this point you would check the plug and connectors and all pins are making good contact? Doesn’t kill you to look. Reflow the solder on the leaf switches? Micro cracks look like the Grand Canyon to electrons.

#4182 24 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Nope. Have fun. But have you checked the ramp harness is plugged in under the play field first? I went down this path once. After replacing the ramp, I thought I had plugged it back in. Would have bet money on it. Would have lost it, too. But that was my senior moment, certainly at this point you would check the plug and connectors and all pins are making good contact? Doesn’t kill you to look. Reflow the solder on the leaf switches? Micro cracks look like the Grand Canyon to electrons.

Yup plugged in soldered, tested continuity. The leaves look like a gorilla tried to adjust them with a pair of vice grips. I"m going to try and reshape them, I got one working kind of last night but the contacts are all jacked up and not making a quality connection, i can get a switch registering with a ball maybe 3 of 7 tries.

#4183 24 days ago
Quoted from cshelden:

The leaves look like a gorilla tried to adjust them with a pair of vice grips

Yeah, Been there on a set flipper switches in my South Park... ultimately had to replace them.

#4184 19 days ago

I bought a restored all-LED Pinbot a few months ago. It works, but there is an audible 50 Hz hum (I am located in Europe, therefore 230V/50Hz power) coming through the speakers. The volume of the hum always stays the same no matter how the volume knob is set. Lights have no effect to the sound of the hum - it's always pure 50 Hz.

In order to get rid of it I replaced all 8 caps on the power supply board (see shiny new blue caps on the picture) but unfortunately there is no improvement.

What else could I try?

IMG_0077 (resized).JPG
#4185 19 days ago
Quoted from pinbotplayer:

What else could I try?

Got an O-scope? Thats what I would do next, go sniffing my audio circuits looking for where the signal is getting injected. If it is coming out of the DAC, then look at the power coming into those areas of the circuit. Also, look for the shielded audio cables shield pin to wire braide connection, those are notorious for breaking due to the heavy solder joint.

#4186 19 days ago
Quoted from pinbotplayer:

I bought a restored all-LED Pinbot a few months ago. It works, but there is an audible 50 Hz hum (I am located in Europe, therefore 230V/50Hz power) coming through the speakers. The volume of the hum always stays the same no matter how the volume knob is set. Lights have no effect to the sound of the hum - it's always pure 50 Hz.
In order to get rid of it I replaced all 8 caps on the power supply board (see shiny new blue caps on the picture) but unfortunately there is no improvement.
What else could I try?[quoted image]

Mine had a loud hum when I got it. Circuit board didn’t have all of the screws holding it on. Once I bought more screws and got it properly grounded it was completely gone. So maybe go through and check that you have all of the screws and they’re all tightened down?

10
#4187 19 days ago

Finally finished my pinbot.

- full led conversion including flashers, trough light, backbox light, flipper button lights and Star post lights...comet pinball, take my money!
- playfield strip, clean, wax, new rubbers and pinballs
- replaced the vortex ramp, orbit ramp (thanks freeplay40) and visor (thanks freeplay40)
- all new plastics set
- new vinyl decals for visor and ramp
- rebuilt center target mechanism with new limit switches and motor
- replaced numerous sockets and switches
- bent and installed new eye socket wire forms
- cliffys installed for center drop target and saucers
- new plastic shields for saucers
- rebuilt shooter and flippers, upgraded to fliptronic style springs
- new pinscore displays and ribbon cables
- miscellaneous electrical gremlins exorcised
- replaced / upgraded backbox and cabinet speakers
- installed tournament roms (Matt’s basement arcade ftw)
- removed the 30 year old mummified frog from the bottom of the cabinet

...and most importantly, got the GC score and knocked my buddy Shane off the leaderboard.

Happy flipping!!

B0E1AFF6-ECA3-4918-8C0F-FBD827182F7D (resized).jpeg
#4188 18 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Got an O-scope? Thats what I would do next, go sniffing my audio circuits looking for where the signal is getting injected. If it is coming out of the DAC, then look at the power coming into those areas of the circuit. Also, look for the shielded audio cables shield pin to wire braide connection, those are notorious for breaking due to the heavy solder joint.

Unfortunately I haven't got an O-scope. Where is the audio cables shield pin? Would you please mark it on a picture? Thank you.

#4189 17 days ago
Quoted from sixleggeddog:

Mine had a loud hum when I got it. Circuit board didn’t have all of the screws holding it on. Once I bought more screws and got it properly grounded it was completely gone. So maybe go through and check that you have all of the screws and they’re all tightened down?

Several system 11 machines I've owned that came in noisy got quiet when I tended to all the circuit board screws. Grounding is important.

Richard

#4190 16 days ago

When reinstalling the visor is there a trick to get it to sit down properly When I hooked mine up and power up it doesn’t rest in the down position.

#4191 16 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

When reinstalling the visor is there a trick to get it to sit down properly When I hooked mine up and power up it doesn’t rest in the down position.

I once was talking to Steve Richie about the new ramp in my High Speed. I said I was having a little issue with my shooter rod alignment. He commented, "Do you know how we dealt with that at production?"..."A 2 by 4 and a hammer!"

Probably not the cure you are looking for. I would loosen up the bracket where it attaches to the playfield so it can move a little until you find the sweet spot.

#4192 16 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

When reinstalling the visor is there a trick to get it to sit down properly When I hooked mine up and power up it doesn’t rest in the down position.

Are you sure you have the bushing on the motor pin? It's easy to lose.

If the bushing is there, are you sure the visor actuating rods are not bent?

///Rich

#4193 15 days ago

Rods aren’t bent and bushing is there
I will take a photo.
Unfortunately I have plenty of time to get his figured

#4194 14 days ago

Ok got it all together. Visor sits properly.
I was test plying it and the only
Complaint is the upper left saucer( the one to the left of the visor ) is a tuff shot. It bounces at some of the time. Is that a tuff shot or do I need a cushion on the deflector

#4195 14 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Ok got it all together. Visor sits properly.
I was test plying it and the only
Complaint is the upper left saucer( the one to the left of the visor ) is a tuff shot. It bounces at some of the time. Is that a tuff shot or do I need a cushion on the deflector

I have the same problem on my Taxi with the Jackpot/Gorbie shot. Annoying when I drill the Jackpot and it doesnt count. I've thought about putting a thin rubber pad for cabinet doors on the deflector. Not sure though.

#4196 14 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I have the same problem on my Taxi with the Jackpot/Gorbie shot. Annoying when I drill the Jackpot and it doesnt count. I've thought about putting a thin rubber pad for cabinet doors on the deflector. Not sure though.

Do you thin the deflector need to be bent forward or is It the angle.

#4197 14 days ago

Its driving me nuts
Is this the correct deflector ?

image (resized).jpg
#4198 14 days ago

Here’s another view

image (resized).jpg
#4199 14 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Its driving me nuts
Is this the correct deflector ?[quoted image]

That looks right.
Is the round metal Cliffy protector not lined up exactly right, or the inside diameter of it too small?
Cliffy protector should not cause a problem, but definitely not factory.

#4200 10 days ago

Anyone know where you can purchase these target faces under the visor? I don’t need the complete switch, just the faces.
Thanks

80C08975-1544-4ECE-BB69-08005210570B (resized).jpeg
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