Thanks! So it looks like a plastic piece is missing, anyone know where I can buy one at?

Probably going to be tough to find, as it's a Wico door and not the more common Coinco door that Williams used. Here's a link to what I believe is the correct part at Marco, though it's out of stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/15-808600

Thanks for the info. dang hopefully they will get that part in stock. Anyone want to sell me one?

Sent you a PM pacman11

You are missing the two odd retaining brackets that are specific to the Wico coin door. They seem to work better with the plastic coin mechs.

Unfortunately those are extremely hard to come by and it took me years to find a pair so I could finally add coin mechs to my Pinbot.

Thanks, I've got one plastic one maybe two I'll check around. Just trying to get atleast one working.

So I changed out the caps on the power supply I could. I got that large one in the middle, and a couple smaller ones. C10 and C8 I believe I got.

One or two of the caps on the board already had NO + or - signs on them, AND the board itself didn't as well. One of the caps was even marked on the board with both sides as + !!

SO I left those two alone.

Played a few games without issue. My issues prior were on occasion the sound would hang on a note, and once in awhile there would be a reset. I think changing out that large C10, along with C8 helped smooth out the 5v line, which may have corrected the issue I was having.

Time will tell. Thanks to Grumpy for the help!

If someone wants to send me one, i'll draw it up in solidworks, so it can be 3d printed. Then i'll send it back.

Bob

Picture please.

Second pic: two pos symbols on both front and back of board.

First pic: no symbols on cap (silver cap, upper right in pic) or board.
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Clearly, one the cap with the 2 pos. markings, I could've just looked at the cap already installed and follow it. But I figured I'd just leave it as it didn't look ancient. Weird though with 2 pos markings on board sides of board.

Here's why.

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Once that silver cap is removed, you will see the + or - marks.

GRUMPY:

No, in the first pic, I am talking about the little silver cap. NOT the high voltage ones.

The silver cap had no markings on it, nor did the board.

It does look old.

Any idea what would be malfunctioning if it were failing?

The cap is marked, you might have to bend the circle cap out of the way to see the markings. *Looks* like + is down, but I don't know off the top of my head. On older caps, sometimes negative is marked, sometimes positive is marked, so pay close attention. The board will have a marking underneath that can be seen once the cap is removed, but it is good to note which way it is going before removing.

This for the 5 volts and should be replaced. You will see the plus mark when removed, and it is also marked on the other side of the board.

Defintely isn't marked on the back of board.

I'll remove the cap and hopefully the symbols are under it.

Thanks guys!

I don't know the schematic by heart. It is a good idea to replace all the electrolytic caps (less the high voltage if using LED displays) so its DONE and you have a good bench mark going forward. If you have ps issues in the future, you might end up chasing your tail thinking the caps are all new but you didn't replace them all.

The marking must be under it then.

I looked very carefully ON and all around the cap, and nothing. And def nothing on the back of the board.

It is very small but it's marked.

Now part of the club. Actually, I have had the Pinbot for a few months, but I've been collecting parts for a full restoration. I have a NOS Playfield that a fellow Pinside pin head sold and cleared for me. And, I have CPR plastics. Trying to get some new ramps, which I see Freeplay has, so I'm checking with him for what he has or can make. Here's a few picks of my start of restoring/fixing head. Any other tips or leads would be greatly appreciated.

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Dude you should start a Resto thread. Love those!!

I saved the original stencils by using tiny bits of painters tape then repainted the black...Don't ask how long that took. I am still trying to get over the nightmare on how long it was..lol
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Anyone know where we can get the large decal set? See attached picture of the set. Thanks.

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I have a few sets left. Pm’d you

Anyone have the wire form ramp from the mini playfield to the right flipper in lane? PM me if you have one to sell.

While we're on this topic. It's imperative that you check your parts before you install them. I did a cap and high voltage refresh on my power supply. I put the new board in and it blew F1 immediately. I didn't have time to troubleshoot it till today when I realized that the parts sent to me were 39 ohms rather than 39,000. In this case the code should have been orange-white-orange-gold rather than the orange-white-black-gold that were in the package.

Yes, parts do come bad out of the box but more often they are simply the wrong parts. Hopefully Marco didn't send out a lot of these.

///Rich

PS-Grumpy, before I fire this up again, do you see a problem with any parts downstream or just replace the resistors and see what happens?

PSS-I got in touch with Marco and they immediately sent the right ones.
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You put a lot of current thru ZR-1 and ZR-3 until the fuse popped. Like 1000 times what it should have been. On the other hand, it was only for a few miliseconds. Your call.

A few tweaks left, but pretty close

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And it was a slo-blow fuse. I think I have an extra pair of the diodes from the board that I didn't update the high side on.

Nothing is easy. And as always, thanks.

///Rich

I had blue red GI before, went white GI and blue/red for the other accents. Flasher domes, star posts, displays and legs. Mark’s ramp and visor makes it!

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Where’s the visor available at?

I was typing the same thing. Looks awesome

Free play40, Mark makes the ramp and visor. Here on Pinside, he’s done ramps for quite a few in color which is great. The blue visor rocks

Who needs an advertising effort when I have you guys! When I made that blue visor for @volkdrive, I went ahead and made two of them. Since you posted the photos, the second one is already sold.

Thanks!

Rules question:

I’m noticing that my skill shot isn’t multiplying by whatever ball number I’m on.

Ex. On ball 3, shouldn’t skill shot be multiplied by 3?

Mine isnt doing this. Or maybe I’m wrong and it isn’t multiplied by which ball is in play?

Skill shot...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/pinbot/rules/rules.html

Thanks Jeff

So looks like all is fine.

I spoke too quickly. The parts arrived today and the value is correct but it looks like the new ones are not 2 watts. These parts are cheap compared to the time putting them in so, in your infinite wisdom, get the 2 watt ones or install these?

Thanks in advance as always.

///Rich

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Do you think you got a 1/2 watt resistor?

That is what it looks like to me. But there is really no way to tell other than it's about 25% of the mass of the 2 watt one.

I really would not like it to fail and burn the back box to the ground.

///Rich

You should get some new 2 watt ones.

Guys I need to order some
White gi bulbs from comet today. I HATE the red/blue ones in there now.

Which ones look good? Frosted?

I prefer frosted. I think they have 3 levels of brightness and I go with the middle (sun?) But that is personal preference.

Hello.

I am working on a Pinbot with mangled diagnostic switches wiring. Can someone please post a photo of the diagnostic switches connectors wiring?

I agree with Tomass I really like the look of the comet 2smd sunlight frosted. Just bright enough to not be yellow and also that its not completely blinding when exposed.