I added color to each of the three Pinbot machines I have owned. I use white led for the yellow and color match the rest. For me, the real deciding factor is the amount of fade to the blue inserts. It seems like a lot of the blue inserts on pinbots I’ve had were washed out or faded. The color led really made them pop again. But with perfect inserts, I do not disagree with your opinion that all white led will be nice.

OK! Should I chose frosted or ablaze? Which are nicer in your opinion?

The previous owner of the pinbot had apparently problem to replace the old leg screws I tried hard to remove them but it's not so easy - there's a big resistance. Can you advise me how to unbolt them?

IMG_20190220_203126 (resized).jpg

Look inside of the cabinet and see if nuts were added.

Maybe try locking pliers (szczypce blokujące?) on the end. I would use some WD-40 penetrating oil on the bolt first, let it soak in for 15 minutes.

If worse comes to worse. You can just cut off the head and replace the whole leg bracket.

My energy flashers didn't work when I first got my Pinbot either. There are the ceramic resistor boards under the Playfield. A couple of my resistors were bad and that is what the problem was.

Check for voltage on the orange wire at the flasher socket during coil test #6c.

No, did you install Leds ? If you disconnect 1J-12 from the CPU do they turn off?

I used frosted 1smd non-ghosting whites for my yellow inserts. The rest is color matched. I think one of the goal to avoid having yellow/orange/red inserts look the same.
pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

Thanx for the replies. Will update once I troubleshoot.

Thanks a lot for trying writing in Polish
Anyway I think I understand English quite well.

Sadly after 15 years of ownership I'm out of the club. Sold my Pinbot yesterday.

Looked like a very fair price too. I'd have looked at it if I didn't already have one.

So I got back to the machine. I found q17 drive transistor for the robot face to bad. The tab had continuity to ground. I swapped the transistor(2n6532) with a tip122. I thought they were similar by ohm readings btw legs. But the robot face stays on and the tab shows 150ohms to ground. Guess I gotta order the correct transistor? Lol and for the energy flashers I do have 23vac at the orange wires on the sockets. I checked the resistor boards. They look good.

Most likely the threaded portion of the plates inside the cab are damaged. A nice upgrade are the larger plates from WPC era pins, they are not expensive, and are much stronger. They easily replace the smaller originals, though you'll need 6 more screws each to attach them with.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11400-1

Richard

Tip 122 is the correct transistor, If you like to upgrade then use a TIP102.
When a drive transistor is shorted on it stresses the predriver (2n4401) transistor. I normally replace both the first time so I don't have to remove the board again.

Place a jumper across the larger 5 ohm resistor and retest this again in coil test, if they flash with the jumper then shut them off right away to keep the bulbs form burning out and replace the resistor. If they don't flash then remove the jumper and diode test the diodes for A6 and B6 on the diode board.

pb (resized).PNG

Damn it! Already removed the 122 transistor. lol guess I should have looked at that drawing first. Thanx for the replies will try ur ideas when I get time tmrw.

I can't understand why this sound occured. It started afer I changed a few bulbs to leds. But I don't know what leds have to do with this sound... Do you have any ideas? When I play this sound is all the time played and annoys me.

Is that the sound the ball makes when it leaves the shooter lane?

I'm gonna try bell-shaped silicon rubbers in the upper instead to make the eyeball shots more difficult, will report back
mof

I think so...

Perhaps the lane switch is going wonky?

Thanks a lot mate! I've just find the reason of this sound. You were right, the lane switch was wonky, I've just fixed it. It seems to be strange for me, I haven't done anything in that place recently, I don't understand why it was wonky.

yellow tends to be no so great. you can use a white under yellow inset and it will look good. Color matching the rest is fine. it will make each insert well colored. Over time the inserts can look washed out. the matching LEDs tend to hide that problem.

I like it.
Had to cut as much as possible off the orange so it would fit. Just went with a straight line close to the inner hole wall. (too close oops)
-mof
20190423_pb-bell-rubbers (resized).jpg

Got back to my machine. I pulled the board and replaced q13 and q17. I still got some 750 ohms on the ground tab for q17. I noticed I didn’t have and continuity on the ground tab when I pulled q13. Problem must b upstream? I checked u18 and sr4. They look good also.

Tried the jumper. Nothing. And tested diodes a6 and d6. All test good but no flash. I did notice that I don’t have continuity from the unbanded side of the diode at c6 to and other c solder points I get 165 ohms. All other c solder points share continuity btw each other. Not sure what that means? Lol

I can do that. See you in AT

I don't remember giving anyone permission to print my mask baffle other than shapeways. I don't think pinball life would be too keen on people printing their mouth baffle either.

People can craft their own mods as they want. What's the harm here?

Worst case I'll just measure and print a few different ones. A friend offered his 3D printer for my pinball needs.

But if someone was to share the 3D plans even better. I don't plan on selling nor giving away the parts but the plans I could not care less.

That's what I was talking about, a redesign. I can't copy shapeways.......

Note: refasten the resistor boards with mini post rubbers...
-- They act like shock absorbers and help keep the resistors from breaking.

Thanks

Yes people are free to create their own mods. But you aren't crafting your own mod, you are asking someone to copy mine and distribute plagarized plans of said mod. I also have plans for the mouth and other pinbot parts that i do not sell or distribute as they are the intellectual property of pinball life or others.

Below I offer the mask baffle for a modest price where I only make about $5 per item. The rest of the price is Shapeway's costs. If you cannot afford this, send me a PM and we can work something out.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3U4QQ3CS3/pinbot-backbox-visor-baffle-stand-alone?optionId=65240178

Cutting up a toilet roll into little shadow boxes for each light works, too. Sure is ugly though.

Hi! Before I bought the PINBOT one of the previous owners had removed a mylar from the 5x5 chest grid. I don't know why someone could do it, it seems to be silly and aimless. Anyway the result is that this area of playfield is much more damaged that the rest of it.
Can I get your advice how to repair it? I suppose that I hould regenerate the lackuer first and then regenerate mylar. At the moment I don't have any idea hot to start. The lack of the mylar is annoing to me.

removed mylar 1 (resized).jpg

There used to be a chest grid decal with protective film for sale. That would probably be your best option.

Like this

ebay.com link: Pinbot Pinball Machine Insert Decals

Can you write for me what kind od device there is on the photo? Is it necessary for working the machine properly? I've no idea why someone cut the cables.

IMG_20190421_202638[6034] (resized).jpg

That is a large filter capacitor to smooth out the power. Did they add another one somewhere else? Can you post more pictures of the electronics in the backbox?

Here you are. I can take more photos if necessary.

PLAZA (resized).jpg

Does anyone know what the part number is for the 3 eject hole shield plastics? I found this but want to make sure. Pinbot is not listed. Thanks

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9101-9

That will work, I went with 2 purple under the visor https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9101-18
And red for the other one

That's it, although new eject hole shields will have slightly larger mounting holes than the originals, likely for #8 screws versus the original's #6 screws. Probably won't matter once all four are tightened down.

Woot. Joined the club today. Looking forward to getting it setup..

20190503_110338 (resized).jpg

Joined the club with a project machine from Pinfest! So excited as Pinbot is my first 80s machine and my first project. I bought a close to working machine with a good playfield under mylar, and a spare parts machine.

Just getting started, but so far ball ejector, visor motor, 1 pop bumber, right side GI lighting, and some sound is out. This is going to be a fun puzzle.

There is one thing I want to fix immediately before troubleshooting anything else. I have an extra "flasher" in the machine, in that the right flipper connector sparks. How would I hunt down fixing this without electrocuting myself?

After I get the primary working, I'm thinking out mounting the other playfield as art and parting out the rest. We'll see how that works.

Here is the primary and donor. Can't wait!

20190504_083053 (resized).jpg

20190504_083734 (resized).jpg

SantaEatsCheese too bad you aren’t closer to Minnesota, my cab is really beat up. I’d love a donor one.

Road trip!!

Back in the club finally!!

48380125-BC14-42F8-BA0C-9296875E2CCD (resized).jpeg

52C0E82B-7A47-4CEE-B4B5-17B39BFBD5CD (resized).jpeg

BD641595-0243-4F4F-82CE-B41F040A820A (resized).jpeg