(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

6 years ago



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#301 5 years ago

From the manual, on page 37. Power Supply.
F1 is 1/4 Amp 250v SB. F2 is 4 Amp 250v SB. as written,

#302 5 years ago

Power supply F1/F2 were the only ones I was already sure about. It's the ones I listed that were iffy.

#303 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Do any of you guys have a list of the correct fuses for Pinbot? I've gone thru the manual, the info printed on the circuit boards, the stickers in the backbox, and the fuses themselves, and I have a few discrepancies/questions.
1. Power board F3 - Manual says 8A 32V and sticker in backbox just says 8A, nothing mentioned about slow-blow; this is definitely a fast-blow fuse, right?
2. Power board F4 - Manual says 2.5A 250V. Sticker in backbox says 2.5A slow-blow. I'm assuming an SB is correct, that's what's in there now, but would prefer to make certain.
3. Power board F5/F6 - Manual says 7A 250V slow-blow on one page, just 7A on another. Sticker in backbox just says 7A. Machine currently has SB's which I believe are original. Which is correct?
4. Flipper power board F2 - Manual says 5A SB. Label says 5ASB 50V. Current fuse is 5A 250V SB. I'm thinking the "50V" is just a typo as I can't find reference to a 50V 1.25" fuse anywhere, so the 250V must be correct?
5. There's a bank of 4 fuses mounted to the backbox below the power supply board. I see no mention of them in the manual, and can't fit my fuse puller behind to pull them out. Just wondering what these are for and what the rating is, so I can order a few extras just in case.

1. Yes, should be standard blow (fast)
2. SB is correct, aslo confirmed by schematic for the D-8345-549 power supply board
3. both 7A fuses are SB - confirmed by both the parts list for the D-8345-549 power supply board and by the schematics.
4. Not a typo, but a 250V rated fuse is an acceptable substitution. 50V is a minimum requirement. You would not want to substitute the other way, such as using a 50V fuse in a circuit that can have greater than 50V open circuit voltage, or the fuse could arc.
5. These 4 are all 5A SB for the general illumination branches, see the power wiring schematic on page 63 power wiring diagram.

Also, if not present you should add a fuse holder at the input side of the backbox cabinet mounted bridges on early system 11 games with an 8A fuse installed to prevent the possibility of damage or fire if a bridge fails.

#304 5 years ago

Thanks Wayout, much appreciated.

Oddly, in making the same list for my Earthshaker fuses, the 8A 32V is spec'd in the manual for slo-blo, I wondered why they changed the specs.

Quoted from wayout440:

Also, if not present you should add a fuse holder at the input side of the backbox cabinet mounted bridges on early system 11 games with an 8A fuse installed to prevent the possibility of damage or fire if a bridge fails.

I'm guessing you've made this addition to your machines, would you have a good photo so I can see exactly what & where it should be? IIRC there are two bridges, does each get a fuse?

#305 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Thanks Wayout, much appreciated.
Oddly, in making the same list for my Earthshaker fuses, the 8A 32V is spec'd in the manual for slo-blo, I wondered why they changed the specs.

No problem. Like I said earlier, if there is found to be occasions of brief surge current that would blow a standard fuse it is sometimes changed by designers to be a slow blow version.

Quoted from jibmums:

I'm guessing you've made this addition to your machines, would you have a good photo so I can see exactly what & where it should be? IIRC there are two bridges, does each get a fuse?

Yes I have made the mod on several machines. I'm not at home now, but here is a good descriptive link with photos. http://creditdotpinball.com/2014/04/21/mods-fireproofing-pinbot-and-other-early-system-11-games/

#306 5 years ago

Has anybody here taken on a play field restoration on Pinbot? I got mine from a guy who had pronounced it "too far gone", which just seems so sad. The game plays just great, I've got the pops and flippers rebuilt, LEDs throughout, and broken plastics (such as you see in the kick out hole photo here) replaced. I've got the visor sticker and have kept it waxed, so it plays fast and mean. Lately I've been wondering if it would be at all worth the effort to repaint the play field, but maybe that's madness on a PF that is this detailed?

IMG_2416.jpg IMG_2418.jpg IMG_2419.jpg
#307 5 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Has anybody here taken on a play field restoration on Pinbot? I got mine from a guy who had pronounced it "too far gone", which just seems so sad. The game plays just great, I've got the pops and flippers rebuilt, LEDs throughout, and broken plastics (such as you see in the kick out hole photo here) replaced. I've got the visor sticker and have kept it waxed, so it plays fast and mean. Lately I've been wondering if it would be at all worth the effort to repaint the play field, but maybe that's madness on a PF that is this detailed?

Personally, I think you can save it - as long as you keep your expectations reasonable. Obviously it will never be a perfect playfield, but you can improve it. It just won't be easy or fast. I noticed on the last pic you have severe planking on the left, but virtually no wear on the colored matrix squares. My playfield didn't have the planking but the squares were wiped out to the wood.

My advice is to do some research and then decide if you want to do it or not. There's some great restoration threads here on Pinside and elsewhere
http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/2001pf.htm

#308 5 years ago

Huh, would never have thought of the "paint and smear" technique. After reading Vid's guide I figured acrylics were just out of the question. On the other hand, I can't see how you could ever really do a Pinbot pf with masking and airbrushing. I may yet get into it at some point (though repainting the area under the sticker still seems pretty daunting).

#309 5 years ago

You could focus on the solid colors first, do the greys, white - mask and spray - the center "galaxy" you could get a scan of from someone and do a decal then mylar, or hand-touch the black with a brush.

You can definitely re-decal and do the key-lines around the planets for a start.

But beware, it becomes a looong process - bwahahahaha!

#310 5 years ago

Mine wasn't quite that bad in spots, worse in others. it's a lot of work, but I made mine look showroom quality. You can mask and spray anything, don't you know!

298040.jpg

Here's the link to my restoration if interested. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/curbfeelers-pinbot-restored. I followed Vid's guide almost to the letter.

As far as the planking, in the star field I actually did a fair bit of "wiping" on mine and also some repainting the planking lines with a very fine brush, but the key thing is to use the paint that Vid recommends. It's so far superior to the craft store crappy paints they should be outlawed.

#311 5 years ago
Quoted from Curbfeeler:

Mine wasn't quite that bad in spots, worse in others. it's a lot of work, but I made mine look showroom quality. You can mask and spray anything, don't you know!

Damn, Curbfeeler, what I wouldn't have given for a Pinbot with all that nice mylar! Mine only has it next to the slings. On the other hand, I don't have the kind of wood damage you took on, but still...I'm in for a ton of touch up and masking (eventually).

#312 5 years ago

After I go clear coated cpr on mine I will have a decent mylar covered one to part with. Needs some insert work at the multipliers. I am only changing it because I want my pin bot which is my favorite machine I own, to be as close to perfect as possible.

#313 5 years ago

Nice work Curbfeeler you have inspired me to try touching up the Pin*Bot I just took in.

#314 5 years ago

image.jpg
I just bought a Pinbot too...I'm in the club!
Great game.

#315 5 years ago
Quoted from AaronJames:

I just bought a Pinbot too...I'm in the club!
Great game.

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Those games look lonely in there. They need more friends

#316 5 years ago

Haha, you're right!
Slowly but surely.

#317 5 years ago

Hi guys - I just purchased Pinbot #8072 (imported to Aus from LA where it was on location). The misses & I are having a blast going head to head every night, but the 'robot' voice scares my 4 y.o boy haha...

Everything words fine, with mylar having protected the playfield from serious wear. Several plastics are cracked (RH slingshot, 20k tip of vortex spiral, crack in solar upper LH blue ramp) & the solar ramp hinge is partially held together by electrical tape. I have to decide if it's worth forking out for a new plastics set + clear washers etc.

As a first time pin owner:
# What playfield polisher / plastics cleaner do you gurus recommend for these older mylar playfields? Novus 1/2?
# This has new rubbers, but should I consider purchasing a spare kit? What about a fuse kit?

(Everything I purchase will be via ebay or overseas online stores, where shipping to Aus is a killer).

Cheers & thanks,
Alan

20141207_160937 small.jpg
#318 5 years ago
Quoted from jazzfusionb0rg:

Hi guys - I just purchased Pinbot #8072 (imported to Aus from LA where it was on location). The misses & I are having a blast going head to head every night, but the 'robot' voice scares my 4 y.o boy haha...
Everything words fine, with mylar having protected the playfield from serious wear. Several plastics are cracked (RH slingshot, 20k tip of vortex spiral, crack in solar upper LH blue ramp) & the solar ramp hinge is partially held together by electrical tape. I have to decide if it's worth forking out for a new plastics set + clear washers etc.
As a first time pin owner:
# What playfield polisher / plastics cleaner do you gurus recommend for these older mylar playfields? Novus 1/2?
# This has new rubbers, but should I consider purchasing a spare kit? What about a fuse kit?
(Everything I purchase will be via ebay or overseas online stores, where shipping to Aus is a killer).
Cheers & thanks,
Alan

Congrats and welcome to the club, Alan.

Full plastic sets usually do not include all the plastics (vortex, ramps, helmet "shield" for example) Those items are found separately, when you can find them at all. The vortex is repairable though. I've done mine. Steve Channel has an excellent description of this here: http://www.stevechannel.com/pinbot.htm

Novus is fine to get a new aquired game in shape. You won't be using it all the time, just for initial cleaning and not so often heavy soiling later, such as periodical cleaning of rubbers. Follow it up with hand paste wax, such as Blitz wax. A spare set of rubbers is nice to have but not required. It should be a long time before you'll need to replace the new ones on there now.

Buy extra fuses from your favorite electronics distributor. Usually cheaper than buying kits, but probably not by much.

#319 5 years ago

Welcome to the club. CPR just did another plastic run if you want to get a full set.

#320 5 years ago

Welcome Alan, i'm in the middle of stripping my pinbot ready for new rubbers, leds and new plastics from CPR, just waiting for a few parts to arrive so i can complete her. Mine was missing the topper so i am having to create my own topper.
Have fun with her a classic pin with the dreaded Ousler outlanes.

#321 4 years ago
Quoted from buttsy19:

Welcome Alan, i'm in the middle of stripping my pinbot ready for new rubbers, leds and new plastics from CPR, just waiting for a few parts to arrive so i can complete her. Mine was missing the topper so i am having to create my own topper.
Have fun with her a classic pin with the dreaded Ousler outlanes.

Alan,

I have 3 brand new toppers left. I made 50 and sold them to pinside members this year. PM me if you need one.

Joe

137741.jpg

#322 4 years ago

I finally had some down time to start shopping out the Pin*Bot I picked up a few weeks ago. The mylar was lifting off of the inserts so I decided to go full LED. This is the first machine I have down on my own. So far I am pretty stoked with the results. I have another day of reassembly ahead of me and then I will finally be able to play it.

IMG_5832.jpg IMG_5828.JPG IMG_5831.JPG
#323 4 years ago

Oh, man, you have my dream lineup!
I'm limited to 3 games in my setup; Taxi/Diner and Rollergames are on my list!
Currently PinBot and F-14, but F-14 might become a trader...

#324 4 years ago

I'll be happy to get Pin*Bot up and running. It was pretty dirty when I got it. Then once that is going it will be back to restoring the Rollergames. I have a donor cab ready to go for it.

#325 4 years ago

Hey guys, I'm in the process of converting my Pinbot to LEDs. What's the best route to get to the 2 lamps at the bottom of the Vortex?

Thanks in advance!

-Allen

1419366464520.jpg
#326 4 years ago

unfortunately they don't screw in from the bottom of the PF if I remember. Going to have to remove the wireform, mini PF, blue ramp, visor over the blue ramp, and the vortex.

#327 4 years ago

And if you have a pair of rubber coated bulb grabbing tongs its a lot easier.....those 2 were killer to get at in mine....I did the blue/red theme in mine but put some HO purples back there to break it up. Came out good, and don't have to worry about changing them again

#328 4 years ago

Yeah it would have been so much easier if I could have come from underneath. I don't know if I want to take the time to take out the vortex. There's so much that goes into it with such a small space to work. About that purple, though - got time to snap a pic so I can see if it's worth the work?

#329 4 years ago

Hello! I'm new here. My name is Facundo, I'm 20 years old and I'm from Argentina.

It has been always a dream of mine to have a Pinball at my home. And now I can make that dream come true. I've searched for a Pin•Bot, since I love the theme, love the music, and I think it is a legend.

I know just a little about Pinballs, their electronics, etc. So I would like to recive some advice on the machine I'm willing to buy.

The machine i've almost bought (got it reserved) is the third one I've seen.

This is all i've noted:

-Owner told me that all the lamps have been recently changed.
2d.JPG

-Playfield seems to be in nice shape, there are some little things here and there that have to be repaired (Vortex ramp is missing a little piece on top, some color fading on blue ramp, nothing hard to repair) but the machine seems complete.
5d.JPG

-It has the topper.

-Translight seems to be perfect.
IMG_7687.JPG

-Cabinet has all the original graphics with some scratches here and there, nothing serious (except from the back and one side of the backbox, which top has been covered a little with black, covering half of the sun (repair, maybe?), althought I don't have it yet I'm lookin how I'm gonna do to repaint the missing sun part)
4d.JPG

-Back side of the cabinet seems to be repaired at the right side, where it joins to the right side of the cabinet). On the playfield itself
1d.JPG

-Has (what I think it is) the original coin door, with illuminated red coin inserts (first one i've seen with this)

-Legs seem to be in perfect shape.

Overall game works fine, flippers seems to work fine, and all the lamps too. The machine had a little issue with the sound (it had some "buzzing/humming" that gets louder when the light matrix is more lit) but the owner called me a while ago and told me he fixed it (apparently there was some ground issue + a capacitor that was inflated).
3d.JPG

I've uploaded some photos I took to know what do you think.

If I buy it, in the future I would like to do a LED conversion and install XPin Red/Blue displays.

Sorry if my english is not good.

Thanks,
Zonda716

#330 4 years ago

Facundo,

First, your English is excellent. That seems to be a fairly nice machine. I have a Pin Bot and put in the X Pin display but I used the red display. I wish I had done the combination red and blue displays. I put LEDs in mine and used red LEDs on the right and blue LEDs on the left. Looks very nice. You can find many parts for the Pin Bot on line. I don't know how much shipping to Argentina will be if you order from US supplier but parts are available.

My blue ramp was very dirty and required a lot of cleaning and scrubbing to get it to look good but it did clean up pretty nicely. My vortex ramp also had a chip at the top (most of them do) so I replaced the vortex ramp and put on a new decal.

Pin Bot is one of my favorite machines and I am sure you will enjoy owning one. Send us more pictures once you have it cleaned and in good shape.

Enjoy!

Al

#331 4 years ago
Quoted from CharlestonSCPins:

Facundo,
First, your English is excellent. That seems to be a fairly nice machine. I have a Pin Bot and put in the X Pin display but I used the red display. I wish I had done the combination red and blue displays. I put LEDs in mine and used red LEDs on the right and blue LEDs on the left. Looks very nice. You can find many parts for the Pin Bot on line. I don't know how much shipping to Argentina will be if you order from US supplier but parts are available.
My blue ramp was very dirty and required a lot of cleaning and scrubbing to get it to look good but it did clean up pretty nicely. My vortex ramp also had a chip at the top (most of them do) so I replaced the vortex ramp and put on a new decal.
Pin Bot is one of my favorite machines and I am sure you will enjoy owning one. Send us more pictures once you have it cleaned and in good shape.
Enjoy!
Al

Thanks Al! I will upload more detailed photos when I get it

My idea with the LEDs was exactly that. Buying them is not the problem, the thing is that I have to keep learning about the pinball in order to make the swap myself.

#332 4 years ago
Quoted from 2FlippedOut41Mo:

Hey guys, I'm in the process of converting my Pinbot to LEDs. What's the best route to get to the 2 lamps at the bottom of the Vortex?
Thanks in advance!
-Allen

1419366464520.jpg 124 KB

It's worth the effort to remove the ramp. In the process of removing and replacing the parts you will discover things that are loose that need to be tightened or other small details you can fix up while you're in there, as well as just being able to clean/wax the area for possibly the first time ever. Plus you'll be able to get some mylar or something on the worn paint around the switch - I can't understand why there wasn't factory mylar there, mine has the exact same wear spot.

I've been planning to replace my #44 lamps with some 7-LED strips from Comet, to try to light it up a little more dramatically. Some of the fan-shaped bulbs might be good in there too...

#333 4 years ago

Zonda716 - somewhere online I saw a little tutorial on a fix for the often-broken vortex ramp top detail. I'm away from my computer for the holidays, but when I get back home I'll send you the link.

Swapping out to LED lighting is no different from simply replacing the incandescent bulbs, no special knowledge or skill required! When I bought mine, the insert lamps were LED but not the general illumination; I'm guessing the insert lamps came from a kit that for some reason didn't include the GI lights? So if you get a PinBot LED kit you might want to ask about that; you may need to supplement the kit in order to do the red and blue color scheme.

#334 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Zonda716 - somewhere online I saw a little tutorial on a fix for the often-broken vortex ramp top detail. I'm away from my computer for the holidays, but when I get back home I'll send you the link.
Swapping out to LED lighting is no different from simply replacing the incandescent bulbs, no special knowledge or skill required! When I bought mine, the insert lamps were LED but not the general illumination; I'm guessing the insert lamps came from a kit that for some reason didn't include the GI lights? So if you get a PinBot LED kit you might want to ask about that; you may need to supplement the kit in order to do the red and blue color scheme.

Yes, I've seen a tutorial using a small piece of metal. Also I've seen another (which I haven't found yet) that uses plastic to repair that part.

About the lights, I didn't know it was just replace the lamps and that's it. I've read in general discussions that some pinballs get problems with LEDs not illuminating properly, because of the different operation of LEDs.

I'm an automotive technician, so I may have the enought knowledge to make the swap.

Thanks for all!!

#335 4 years ago

The only issues I know of offhand when it comes to swapping to LEDs has to do with flashers. Personally, I've just stayed with incandescent on the flasher bulbs, but I imagine it's actually fairly simple and just a matter of educating oneself on a fairly simple lamp socket mod? There's a ton of info on Pinside, I just haven't ventured into it yet... But you can get 90+% of the way there with plug+play LEDs.

I'd be interested to see about the plastic repair. So far my ramp is in one piece, but it *is* 28 years old!

#336 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I'd be interested to see about the plastic repair. So far my ramp is in one piece, but it *is* 28 years old!

The "original" vortex repair doc is here at Steve Channels site.
http://www.stevechannel.com/pinbot.htm

I used aluminum ventilation stock for mine, cut with a pair of tin snips to fit the shape of the broken piece. I coated it with epoxy putty formed to the shape and then when dry used a dremel tool to grind it to the original shape, painted it, then added the decal. I'm pretty sure this repair will never break.

The repaired vortex result is the first pic of this thread.

#337 4 years ago

Finally got it home yesterday, took a lot of photos, will upload them to an online album later.

Now i'm busy trying to fix an issue with left flipper that has weakened, I don't know why since the game worked perfectly and me and my family played all the night.

Here are some:

IMG_0716.JPG
IMG_0718.JPG
IMG_0725.JPG
IMG_0726.JPG
IMG_0727.JPG

and this is the link to the full album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/129067515@N02/sets/72157649941534555/

Post edited by Zonda716: Added link to photo album and some samples

#338 4 years ago
Quoted from Zonda716:

Finally got it home yesterday...
Now i'm busy trying to fix an issue with left flipper that has weakened

You just got it home. So have you done any inspection before starting to play? There is some information you can check at the link below for specific causes of weak flippers (dirty, out of adjustment EOS or cabinet switches for example). Most often, the flippers need a complete rebuild on a newly aquired used game.

He's a bit of advice. The game should be gone through thoroughly. Not just the flippers. Little maintenance items overlooked can bite you later. Important checks such as "Are all the fuses the correct value?"

See section "Before Turning the Game On":
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

#339 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

You just got it home. So have you done any inspection before starting to play? There is some information you can check at the link below for specific causes of weak flippers (dirty, out of adjustment EOS or cabinet switches for example). Most often, the flippers need a complete rebuild on a newly aquired used game.
He's a bit of advice. The game should be gone through thoroughly. Not just the flippers. Little maintenance items overlooked can bite you later. Important checks such as "Are all the fuses the correct value?"
See section "Before Turning the Game On":
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

I did not do a test before turning the game on, because it was working. I should anyway buy a good DMM (since mine is a crappy $5 one and one of the metallic tips broke) and do a complete test of fuses, transistors, etc.

Flipper issue seems to be more in the mechanical side. Gonna update about that later.

Solved:
Flipper issue was that the EOS' platinum (the little contact, we call it Platino, spanish for platinum) was worn out. Now it has a new EOS switch + a new coil stop + a new coil sleeve and now it works perfectly

Post edited by Zonda716: Update

#340 4 years ago
Quoted from Zonda716:

Hello! I'm new here. My name is Facundo, I'm 20 years old and I'm from Argentina.
It has been always a dream of mine to have a Pinball at my home. And now I can make that dream come true. I've searched for a Pin•Bot, since I love the theme, love the music, and I think it is a legend.
I know just a little about Pinballs, their electronics, etc. So I would like to recive some advice on the machine I'm willing to buy.
The machine i've almost bought (got it reserved) is the third one I've seen.
This is all i've noted:
-Owner told me that all the lamps have been recently changed.

Facundo,

Welcome and congratulations on Pinbot. That was my first game I bought and still one of my favorites.

Could you share with us how much you paid for Pinbot in Argentina?

Joe

#341 4 years ago

Hey guys, I am finishing out my shop out of Pin*Bot and have run into a bit of a problem with the helmet motor. I had to disassemble the entire unit because the T-Nut the holds in the top right post was missing. As a result the ball guide/lane was getting hammered. Now when I turn the game on the motor does the reset: it opens and closes twice, but instead of staying open in the closed position with targets accessible it stays in the closed position. I have also noticed that when running the coil test the motor has a hard time running. It can't fully open or close and it brings up the target assembly unevenly.

Any tips or thoughts on how to address this?

#342 4 years ago

I have disassembled and reassembled my Pinbot visor assembly twice now, and would be happy to walk you through it (or come by and give you a hand since I'm in the area). There are 2 switches I the assembly that are rather like miniature versions if the ball trough switch. The metal arms are pretty thin and tend to wear out/bend or break. I'd just about bet that's the problem. It's actually pretty easy to repair, and really easy if you can take the pf out and out it on a rotisserie. (Which I could also lend you, actually). Long and short of it is, there are 2 switches prone to breaking; one of them has broken but you should order both and replace them at the same time. I'm away from the computer so can't easily look up the part #, but there is a thread somewhere on here about it. If you have trouble let me know and I'll ID it for you.

#343 4 years ago

I was wondering if it could be the microswitches. If I have time today I may pull the assembly apart and have a look/order a new set from Marco.

Kicking myself for taking it apart, but I had to fix the missing post.

#344 4 years ago

I had a somewhat similar problem last week with mine where the motor would chug and the targets wouldn't raise. After taking the motor apart I noticed that the pin that raises/lowers the target was "stuck" in the curve of one of the switches. I didn't take any pics but below shows the pin I am referring too.

PB Motor Switch.png
#345 4 years ago

Joined this club yesterday. I still have to go pick up my PINBOT; but can't wait to get it home. Pictures when it arrives.

#346 4 years ago
Quoted from JBK:

Joined this club yesterday. I still have to go pick up my PINBOT; but can't wait to get it home. Pictures when it arrives.

Congrats. I just made mine a lot harder by changing the playfield angle and WOW do the outlanes love to swallow balls. lol

#347 4 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I was wondering if it could be the microswitches. If I have time today I may pull the assembly apart and have a look/order a new set from Marco.
Kicking myself for taking it apart, but I had to fix the missing post.

It's entirely possible that your previous disassembly had nothing to do with it. Those switch arms are teeny and 30 years old. Nice thing is it's a really easy fix.

#348 4 years ago

Thanks for the input guys. I feel as though I have two issues: the helmet not resetting to the proper position at power up and the targets raising unevenly during the coil test. Hopefully I will get it all sorted today. I'm really looking forward to having this int lineup.

#349 4 years ago
Quoted from charliex:

Facundo,

Welcome and congratulations on Pinbot. That was my first game I bought and still one of my favorites.

Could you share with us how much you paid for Pinbot in Argentina?

Joe

Joe, I paid for it around u$s 1250. It was the most expensive of the three i've saw, but it was the best of the three. I've been asked around u$s 1050 for the first one i''ve seen (this one was working, but needed a lot of work on it), and then u$s 1200 for the second one (this was the worst, since the owner showed it withouth the legs and she told me it couldn't be turned on).

The seller of the second one now asks u$s 1900 for that pinbot... She's crazy!

#350 4 years ago

Hey all

I just recently replaced bulbs with LED kit from cointaker and i have a issue with some flashers.
The Above plastic flashers on left side,one in far right corner and all the topper ones stay on all the time.

They will still flash when programmed to but they will remain on solid while power is on.
Has anyone else had this issue?

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