Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!

Quoted from Aniraf:
I put the blue spring on my shooter because it came with the red one which everyone says is too powerful. I agree it is too much, but the blue spring can hardly make the first hole in the ramp.
I have the game set around 6.2 degrees. I’ve also noticed occasionally the ball hits something with the red spring and deflects before making it to the ramp. Are there any tricks to smooth out the shooter lane?

I had to take a look at where my shooter was striking the ball when I switched to the blue spring. It was off-center on the ball and I made some adjustments to the housing (putting a washer under one side) in order for it to be completely dead on. Once I did that, it shot almost perfectly.

#3052 5 years ago

ELD

darcangeloel

Pinside member

Richmond, VA

7y 66,800 915 4

I wonder this as well it's been a pain trying to get it to consistently get to the top.

Quoted from Aniraf:
I put the blue spring on my shooter because it came with the red one which everyone says is too powerful. I agree it is too much, but the blue spring can hardly make the first hole in the ramp.
I have the game set around 6.2 degrees. I’ve also noticed occasionally the ball hits something with the red spring and deflects before making it to the ramp. Are there any tricks to smooth out the shooter lane?

#3053 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from CthulhuTilted:
I had to take a look at where my shooter was striking the ball when I switched to the blue spring. It was off-center on the ball and I made some adjustments to the housing (putting a washer under one side) in order for it to be completely dead on. Once I did that, it shot almost perfectly.

This is 100% correct, the shooter tip has to hit the ball dead center to transfer the most energy. On mine I switched to a black shooter tip to find the sweet spot for power. As the black tip transfers more energy (higher durometer).

Also important on games like High Speed.

#3054 5 years ago

JRP

Gogojohnnyquack

Pinside+ Frequent

Seattle, WA

9y 84,300 1,361 5

Quoted from CthulhuTilted:
I had to take a look at where my shooter was striking the ball when I switched to the blue spring. It was off-center on the ball and I made some adjustments to the housing (putting a washer under one side) in order for it to be completely dead on.

This mostly worked for me too, but not until I made sure that both the front and back of my cabinet were level did it work 100%. The playfield may measure level but the cabinet can be twisted which affects the ball trajectory off the shooter. I use a level against the bottom edge of the front and rear panels of the cabinet. This also fixed my issue with the playfield scraping against the side of the cabinet when being raised/lowered, and the hooks now fall right into their slots in the lockdown bar.

#3055 5 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

Quoted from Aniraf:
What about this bizarre “post” I have to the left of the robot? As you can see, it is actually a screw wrapped in tape.
What is this supposed to be? I assume that is not a factory thing?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have it like this:
pasted_image (resized).png

#3056 5 years ago

PAB

MustangPaul

LED Leg Light-Ups

Saint Paul, MN

11y 136K 23,313 10

Quoted from Aniraf:
also noticed occasionally the ball hits something with the red spring and deflects before making it to the ramp.

Jackbot does the same thing.

#3057 5 years ago

GUS

Plumonium

Pinside member

Montreal, QC

9y 60,550 1,496 5 7

I forgot, in any case, I strongly suggest adding a washer underneath the post otherwise the playfield will get chew up from taking a beating. This a smaller size post. Mine was broken prior and another post screwed just in front.

8d87d0131cefce32d2e9b463e9f1a7120e9f52b2 (resized).jpg

#3058 5 years ago

MJF

Aniraf

NinjaCamp

6y 95,800 2,005

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:
This mostly worked for me too, but not until I made sure that both the front and back of my cabinet were level did it work 100%. The playfield may measure level but the cabinet can be twisted which affects the ball trajectory off the shooter. I use a level against the bottom edge of the front and rear panels of the cabinet. This also fixed my issue with the playfield scraping against the side of the cabinet when being raised/lowered, and the hooks now fall right into their slots in the lockdown bar.

This is interesting. I never figured the cabinet was uniform enough to trust any of he edges. I’ll are a look at mine. I would not be surprised if it is warped. I know I already corrected a bit with the leg levelers.

#3059 5 years ago

MJF

Aniraf

NinjaCamp

6y 95,800 2,005

Quoted from Plumonium:
I have it like this:
[quoted image]

I ended up replacing I with this.

48DAC93B-A60E-4094-9655-8331CD212FA6 (resized).jpeg

#3060 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked

Currently in the middle of a restore / playfield swap. Will post more pictures along the way. Have a NOS playfield that I’m swapping in to. If anyone has any hints about the playfield swap I’m all ears. It’ll be my first one!

84180D91-9FAE-479C-9915-E60722A4B261.jpeg

#3061 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from JFink8222:
Currently in the middle of a restore / playfield swap. Will post more pictures along the way. Have a NOS playfield that I’m swapping in to. If anyone has any hints about the playfield swap I’m all ears. It’ll be my first one!
[quoted image]

Lots of good threads about pf swaps out there. Take more photos than you think you need is one recurring comment I see.

#3062 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Overall your old pf looks decent. I'm sure you could find a buyer quickly.

#3063 5 years ago

NWS

CthulhuTilted

Pinside member

Quoted from PM_Jeremy:
Overall your old pf looks decent. I'm sure you could find a buyer quickly.

New to restoration. I'm a bit surprised that wear like near the flippers would be considered a decent pf.

#3064 5 years ago

???

Marvin

Blocked

Quoted from CthulhuTilted:
New to restoration. I'm a bit surprised that wear like near the flippers would be considered a decent pf.

the photos aren't detailed but if that is the only issues it not that bad. That's not saying its a good PF. Usually there is major wear over the grid lights and that look's pretty OK. Its hard to tell but the eye locks look pretty worn too. If it was me this would be about the bottom end of what I'd be willing to have restored. More than this amount of work and it would be unreasonable to do in my mind. If the whole PF is planked and going to be losing art then its bad. I good restorer could fix the bad areas on this field.

#3065 5 years ago

NWS

CthulhuTilted

Pinside member

Quoted from Marvin:
the photos aren't detailed but if that is the only issues it not that bad. That's not saying its a good PF. Usually there is major wear over the grid lights and that look's pretty OK. Its hard to tell but the eye locks look pretty worn too. If it was me this would be about the bottom end of what I'd be willing to have restored. More than this amount of work and it would be unreasonable to do in my mind. If the whole PF is planked and going to be losing art then its bad. I good restorer could fix the bad areas on this field.

I see, thanks for the insight! My playfield is planked and removing the mylar makes things worse. I am eagerly awaiting the hardtop release.

#3066 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from Marvin:
the photos aren't detailed but if that is the only issues it not that bad. That's not saying its a good PF. Usually there is major wear over the grid lights and that look's pretty OK. Its hard to tell but the eye locks look pretty worn too. If it was me this would be about the bottom end of what I'd be willing to have restored. More than this amount of work and it would be unreasonable to do in my mind. If the whole PF is planked and going to be losing art then its bad. I good restorer could fix the bad areas on this field.

Great points to you both. On a Pinbot pf I look at the grid first. I only glanced at the area by the flippers and mistook it for reflection. As I focus on it now - yea.... that is some good wear there.

#3067 5 years ago

???

Marvin

Blocked

Quoted from CthulhuTilted:
I am eagerly awaiting the hardtop release.

Oh dear god don't do that! Play on wood like its meant to be. Play it as is, or fix it and clear it, or clear it as is, or find a better playfield, and enjoy the game. Don't go destroying the PF, then putting a sheet of plastic on it.

#3068 5 years ago

KAT

topkat

Pinside+ Frequent

5y 95,100 1,742

If Someone could please post a photo of their power board but not zoomed in
I have an orange wire that is not connected anywhere.. it’s paired with a black wire
Thanks

#3069 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from topkat:
If Someone could please post a photo of their power board but not zoomed in
I have an orange wire that is not connected anywhere.. it’s paired with a black wire
Thanks

Photo attached

15476436784761168617504 (resized).jpg

#3070 5 years ago

???

Marvin

Blocked

Quoted from topkat:
If Someone could please post a photo of their power board but not zoomed in
I have an orange wire that is not connected anywhere.. it’s paired with a black wire
Thanks

probably the knocker

#3071 5 years ago

NWS

CthulhuTilted

Pinside member

Quoted from Marvin:
Oh dear god don't do that! Play on wood like its meant to be. Play it as is, or fix it and clear it, or clear it as is, or find a better playfield, and enjoy the game. Don't go destroying the PF, then putting a sheet of plastic on it.

I'm sure there were people that felt the same as you when flippers, solid state electronics, and/or LCD screens were added to pins.

#3072 5 years ago

???

Marvin

Blocked

Quoted from CthulhuTilted:
I'm sure there were people that felt the same as you when flippers, solid state electronics, and/or LCD screens were added to pins.

If you added those things to pins that didn't have them to begin with sure. but add flippers to a 1930s machine and a lot of people would complain.

#3073 5 years ago

KAT

topkat

Pinside+ Frequent

5y 95,100 1,742

Quoted from PM_Jeremy:
Photo attached[quoted image]

Thank you!
it looks like they head upper right which Marvin mentioned is the knocker...thanks again

#3074 5 years ago

DEC

GRUMPY

Pinside member

10y 95,050 8,702

Quoted from topkat:
Thank you!
it looks like they head upper right which Marvin mentioned is the knocker...thanks again

Orange is a power wire for the "c" side of the solenoids. The black wire has a color stripe on it. Match that to the solenoid table and you will see it goes to the knocker.

#3075 5 years ago

MLB

cngizbleevng

Inactive member

Having a strange problem with my newly acquired Pinbot machine.

The LCD score displays will randomly go blank, sometimes in the middle of a game and sometimes they're blank when the machine is first turned on. It can last for days, or just several minutes. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to the behavior. Everything else is fine, and I can play a game, but with no idea what my score is or what ball it is.

I don't see any obvious loose connectors or burned out fuses.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

#3076 5 years ago

CJK

ChrisPINk25

Pinside+ Frequent

6y 70,800 826 10

Did you reseat all cables to the displays?

#3077 5 years ago

MLB

cngizbleevng

Inactive member

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:
Did you reseat all cables to the displays?

Yes. No effect.

#3078 5 years ago

ZDG

gutz

Pinside member

10y 78,550 1,745 28

Quoted from cngizbleevng:
Having a strange problem with my newly acquired Pinbot machine.
The LCD score displays will randomly go blank, sometimes in the middle of a game and sometimes they're blank when the machine is first turned on. It can last for days, or just several minutes. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to the behavior. Everything else is fine, and I can play a game, but with no idea what my score is or what ball it is.
I don't see any obvious loose connectors or burned out fuses.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

LCD?! Are they the original gas displays or newer replacement LED displays? If gas, I would first suspect the high voltage from the power supply, there are a couple notorious resistors for high voltage. Next time they black out, measure your 100/-100v on the power supply and on the display driver.

#3079 5 years ago

MLB

cngizbleevng

Inactive member

Quoted from gutz:
LCD?! Are they the original gas displays or newer replacement LED displays? If gas, I would first suspect the high voltage from the power supply, there are a couple notorious resistors for high voltage. Next time they black out, measure your 100/-100v on the power supply and on the display driver.

I may be using the wrong term. I'm not sure whether these are original or were replaced at some point.

#3080 5 years ago

ZDG

gutz

Pinside member

10y 78,550 1,745 28

Quoted from cngizbleevng:
I may be using the wrong term. I'm not sure whether these are original or were replaced at some point.

Pull the glass/translight out and post a pic of the displays with the machine off, they will be quickly identified as original gas or new LED replacements. Depending on which type they are will tell you where you need to start trouble shooting since gas displays use high voltage, and LED do not use high voltage.

#3081 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked

All I can do today. Next step is to remove the playfield from the cabinet. Question for everyone.... MYLAR around wear areas or not? The new playfield is triple clear coated and this is for HOU. Currently the previous owner installed Mylar protectors near the flippers and slingshots. Looks like factory Mylar still up at pop bumpers. Thoughts?
New playfield photo too

EE29D9CE-B8D7-4752-81D1-7928AA2FCA97.jpeg

image.jpg

#3082 5 years ago

MLB

cngizbleevng

Inactive member

Quoted from gutz:
Pull the glass/translight out and post a pic of the displays with the machine off, they will be quickly identified as original gas or new LED replacements. Depending on which type they are will tell you where you need to start trouble shooting since gas displays use high voltage, and LED do not use high voltage.

20190116_174358 (resized).jpg

#3083 5 years ago

DAV

henrydwh

Pinside member

Topeka, KS

8y 94,400 1,660 2 7

Judging by the warranty stickers they are original, I would say it's your high voltage on your power supply. I am no expert by any means! I am sure somebody that knows about this will chime in shortly!

#3084 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from JFink8222:
All I can do today. Next step is to remove the playfield from the cabinet. Question for everyone.... MYLAR around wear areas or not? The new playfield is triple clear coated and this is for HOU. Currently the previous owner installed Mylar protectors near the flippers and slingshots. Looks like factory Mylar still up at pop bumpers. Thoughts?
New playfield photo too
[quoted image][quoted image]

No mylar. Plays faster

#3085 5 years ago

ZDG

gutz

Pinside member

10y 78,550 1,745 28

Quoted from cngizbleevng:
[quoted image]

Those are original gas displays that need the high voltage (+100v and -100v) to operate. Measure those voltages during the 'blackouts'.

#3086 5 years ago

TIM

Twilight1

Inactive member

I’m in the club again what a great game don’t know why I ever sold my first one

#3087 5 years ago

DIO

Dee-Bow

Pinside member

Regina, SK

8y 101K 5,295 4

Welcome back Tim! I I frikkin love me some pinbot

#3088 5 years ago

TIM

Twilight1

Inactive member

Thanks Shaun and right great light show, and the collecting solar is the best feeling in life

#3089 5 years ago

TIM

Twilight1

Inactive member

Quoted from Twilight1:
Thanks Shaun and right great light show, and the collecting the solar is the best feeling in life

#3090 5 years ago

PMJ

PM_Jeremy

Pinside+ Frequent

Quoted from Twilight1:
I’m in the club again what a great game don’t know why I ever sold my first one

Welcome back, Pinbot is my daily driver. I personally like the light show on the "energy transfer" (shot under the lift up ramp). Next best for me is a sweep of the three drops.

#3091 5 years ago

TIM

Twilight1

Inactive member

Quoted from PM_Jeremy:
Welcome back, Pinbot is my daily driver. I personally like the light show on the "energy transfer" (shot under the lift up ramp). Next best for me is a sweep of the three drops.

Thanks. Ya what’s a great game and yes energy transfer has a awesome light show. Pinbot was also the first game I ever play probably was 9 or 10 and she was brand new. So she’s super special to me.

#3092 5 years ago

DIK

someotherguy

Pinside member

6y 44,150 419

Quoted from JFink8222:
All I can do today. Next step is to remove the playfield from the cabinet. Question for everyone.... MYLAR around wear areas or not? The new playfield is triple clear coated and this is for HOU. Currently the previous owner installed Mylar protectors near the flippers and slingshots. Looks like factory Mylar still up at pop bumpers. Thoughts?
New playfield photo too
[quoted image][quoted image]

Man I feel bad for you...whoever clearcoated that un-drilled playfield left you a big job to conquer. Just mapping out the places to drill holes is a big job, now you also have to be super careful to drill those holes without chipping the clearcoat.

There are bound to be threads here with guidance on that; I remember discussions about it on RGP many years ago and surely that discussion has carried on here as well.

Richard

#3093 5 years ago

TIM

Twilight1

Inactive member

Quoted from JFink8222:
All I can do today. Next step is to remove the playfield from the cabinet. Question for everyone.... MYLAR around wear areas or not? The new playfield is triple clear coated and this is for HOU. Currently the previous owner installed Mylar protectors near the flippers and slingshots. Looks like factory Mylar still up at pop bumpers. Thoughts?
New playfield photo too
[quoted image][quoted image]

If it’s for huo I would only put down mylar in the pops.

#3094 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked

Yes. I know it’s gonna be a huge job. No holes drilled anywhere!! I’m not in any rush and will line things up as best as possible. I have a thick piece of Mylar that is the size of my playfield. I will use that as a guide for drilling (not sticky). Removed the playfield today. I like the CCC stamp from nov 11, 1986. Brought back memories from when I first played Pinbot at wrestling camp in Strausburg PA

D1F15553-EA54-48A7-B92F-AC9B8F8C615E.jpeg

E9803970-18FC-45EE-8495-47CD9BC5C11C.jpeg

F8EBCEE2-93DE-46E4-A63E-07337BAEEBF4.jpeg

#3095 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked

Found this plastic chunk in the back of the cabinet. Ideas which game?

image (resized).jpg

#3096 5 years ago

CDH

chaskett

CHRiS HASKETT designs

9y 44,300 301 2

Quoted from JFink8222:
Found this plastic chunk in the back of the cabinet. Ideas which game?
[quoted image]

1976 Gottlieb Super Soccer
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2443

#3097 5 years ago

MJF

Aniraf

NinjaCamp

6y 95,800 2,005

Here are leftovers from my restoration, does anyone need any of these?

08FA4C8A-FE82-4AD3-9EDB-2DDEABC35AF3 (resized).jpeg

EF81E578-5D2E-4F08-B5B0-BAE87954A017 (resized).jpeg

#3098 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked

Quick question here before I start posting/looking elsewhere. I need a new motor cam assembly for the visor part #A-11154. Anyone have one? Marco is sold out at $18.99. Cant find another one elsewhere. Ideas? Thanks everyone

#3099 5 years ago

CJK

ChrisPINk25

Pinside+ Frequent

6y 70,800 826 10

I got mine on eBay. A little more money at $39.99 with free shipping. The listing is out there.

#3100 5 years ago

???

JFink8222

Blocked