(Topic ID: 70838)

Pinbot Fans and Owners Club!


By wayout440

5 years ago



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  • 3,146 posts
  • 292 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Plumonium
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There are 3146 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 63.
#3001 16 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Can someone tell me if this little cover for the ramp lift arm is stock? As you can see, someone crudely screwed and glued the one on my PinBot together. I don’t know if this is needed.
This was covering the lift arm on that movable ramp to the left of the playfield.
[quoted image]

That metal bar is stock. But it was just attached with thin double sided tape. It has the purpose of protecting the lift arm from ball strikes. Also it might stiffen up the long blue playfield plastic, at its weakest point. On most PinBots that bar has fallen off long ago.

#3002 15 days ago
Quoted from Darcy:

That metal bar is stock. But it was just attached with thin double sided tape. It has the purpose of protecting the lift arm from ball strikes. Also it might stiffen up the long blue playfield plastic, at its weakest point. On most PinBots that bar has fallen off long ago.

Cool, thanks.

#3003 15 days ago

Ok, another question. I realized that both screws for the adjustable outlines broke off inside of the predrilled metal plate. It would appear that the screws I have don’t even fit in there and that someone forced these. Chances are I won’t be able to get these out and I’ll have to use the next position, but I don’t know what kind of screw to put in there.

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#3004 15 days ago
Quoted from Darcy:

That metal bar is stock. But it was just attached with thin double sided tape. It has the purpose of protecting the lift arm from ball strikes. Also it might stiffen up the long blue playfield plastic, at its weakest point. On most PinBots that bar has fallen off long ago.

I should ask, do I need it? My game will be at a bar.

#3005 15 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Ok, another question. I realized that both screws for the adjustable outlines broke off inside of the predrilled metal plate. It would appear that the screws I have don’t even fit in there and that someone forced these. Chances are I won’t be able to get these out and I’ll have to use the next position, but I don’t know what kind of screw to put in there. [quoted image]

Ignore this one. Apparently the previous owner put lock nuts on the bottom, and I just sheered them right off. I can’t see why those would be needed?

#3006 15 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I should ask, do I need it? My game will be at a bar.

Yes it keeps the ball from getting stuck.

#3007 15 days ago

What about this bizarre “post” I have to the left of the robot? As you can see, it is actually a screw wrapped in tape.

What is this supposed to be? I assume that is not a factory thing?

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#3008 15 days ago

Should look like this.

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#3009 15 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Should look like this.
[quoted image]

Do you have any idea what post that is?

#3011 15 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Is this normal face/helmet flasher behavior on the lightboard insert?
I lost my face flashers due to a burnt q17 transistor. It failed open and the flashers wouldnt turn on. Replaced the q17 drive transistor and q13 pre driver. Face flashers now work and are not locked on, but im not sure they are working properly- especially during multiball.
I think this is normal: Face lights up when the game is started during "pinbot circuits activated" then turns off. Face lights up after filling the chest during "i am in your control" then turns off. Face lights up during "partial link up" then turns off. Face does not light up during "energy transferred ".
I think this isn't normal: face lights up "now i see you" during multiball start and it never turns off until you drain both balls. It does turn off briefly when any other solenoid fires, but comes back on. Once the ball drains, the next ball is back to normal and the face is off.
In solenoid test, everything functions correctly and there is no double/cross talk action between the face flashers and other solenoids. During attract mode, the face lights up when pinbot speaks, but it is normally off.

Are you using 1251 bubs in the face? Sound like you may be using 89 flashers incorrectly there.

#3012 15 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Are you using 1251 bubs in the face? Sound like you may be using 89 flashers incorrectly there.

When I bought mine. It had 1251's in every flasher including the topper.

#3013 15 days ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

When I bought mine. It had 1251's in every flasher including the topper.

I believe the 1251 total should be 9. Four in the backbox and five under / on the playfield.

#3014 15 days ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Are you using 1251 bubs in the face? Sound like you may be using 89 flashers incorrectly there.

Yes, 1251s in the face.

Before the circuit failed, I don't recall them being on constantly for multiball (and after) until both balls drained. I don't usually look at the backbox while playing either, so it might be normal behavior. It isn't the normal locked on/never on solenoid circuit issues.

#3015 14 days ago

There is a Pinbot being parted out on Facebook...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/299213816922644/?fref=nf

#3016 13 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Yes, 1251s in the face.
Before the circuit failed, I don't recall them being on constantly for multiball (and after) until both balls drained. I don't usually look at the backbox while playing either, so it might be normal behavior. It isn't the normal locked on/never on solenoid circuit issues.

Can anyone confirm on their machine if the face flashers stay on during multiball, then stay on when multiball ends (single ball play), then finally turn off once that ball has drained?

#3017 13 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

Can anyone confirm on their machine if the face flashers stay on during multiball, then stay on when multiball ends

Not in front of my machine but I found this video on YouTube and it shows what you are talking about.

#3018 13 days ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

Not in front of my machine but I found this video on YouTube and it shows what you are talking about.

Thank you, that is very helpful.

My first idea was to search youtube, but i couldn't find a video showing the back box during a game. (Maybe its depending on how 'pinbot' is spelled??)

My face flashers are doing the exact same thing during multiball. I will chalk this up as 'normal' behavior.

#3019 13 days ago

Could someone help me figure out the installation order for the mini playfield? I’m struggling to figure out what type of post goes into the hole in the plastic to receive the ball deflector thing on the shooter lane, then also understand how the little notch in the playfield somehow goes into the post on the right hand side of the full playfield.

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#3020 13 days ago

One more issue…is there a way to adjust which hole the actuator comes out of on a cherry switch? I need the new one from PinballLife to match the old non-working eye socket one.

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#3021 13 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Could someone help me figure out the installation order for the mini playfield? I’m struggling to figure out what type of post goes into the hole in the plastic to receive the ball deflector thing on the shooter lane, then also understand how the little notch in the playfield somehow goes into the post on the right hand side of the full playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hopefully these photos will be of some help.
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#3022 13 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Hopefully these photos will be of some help.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Umm, yeah…awesome, thank you so much!

#3023 13 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

One more issue…is there a way to adjust which hole the actuator comes out of on a cherry switch? I need the new one from PinballLife to match the old non-working eye socket one.
[quoted image]

For the switch you will have to carefully drill the plastic pegs (two?) that hold the switch together. Then even more carefully separate the switch and move the lever to the other set of holes. Practice on the old one first.

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#3024 13 days ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

For the switch you will have to carefully drill the plastic pegs (two?) that hold the switch together. Then even more carefully separate the switch and move the lever to the other set of holes. Practice on the old one first.
[quoted image]

The new switch doesn't have those. It looks like it is held together based on internal clips or heat sealing. I'm not sure. I posted a bigger thread on it and another person said I should pry it apart carefully as well. If this is my only option, I'm going to have to give it a shot.

#3025 13 days ago

There is a weird thing happening during my initial tests where the machine fires two balls into the shooter lane. This is hopefully related to my identification of the bad eye socket switch (above), but in case it is not...I thought I might call it out and see if this is something caused by a common issue.

Thanks for all the help in this forum everyone!

#3026 12 days ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

For the switch you will have to carefully drill the plastic pegs (two?) that hold the switch together. Then even more carefully separate the switch and move the lever to the other set of holes. Practice on the old one first.
[quoted image]

Use a razor blade to pry in to the switch to separate the plastic. Once you have it all back together be sure to test the switch and make sure nothing went back into it incorrectly

#3027 12 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Use a razor blade to pry in to the switch to separate the plastic. Once you have it all back together be sure to test the switch and make sure nothing went back into it incorrectly

Hat worked. I used a small flathead. It was almost like these switches were made to come apart. I am pleased with my results . Thank you!

#3028 12 days ago

Would it be possible to update the wiring harnesses on this coin door to work with he pinbot one, or is there another more ideal coin door?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-coin-door.html

#3029 12 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Would it be possible to update the wiring harnesses on this coin door to work with he pinbot one

Yes, but why not fix the one you have?

#3030 12 days ago

I have a project pinbot I'm working on and I'm missing the rods the connect the switches in the corkscrew ramp and also missing an apron. anyone have any of these laying around?

#3031 12 days ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I have a project pinbot I'm working on and I'm missing the rods the connect the switches in the corkscrew ramp and also missing an apron. anyone have any of these laying around?

Did you see this post?

#3032 11 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, removing the ground wire is electrically the same as removing the resistor. If you ever want to revert back to original lamps, you can reconnect the wire instead of trying to find where you stored all the warming resistors.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Can someone please take a picture of this modification in their machine?

#3033 11 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, but why not fix the one you have?

Someone ripped all of the wiring and switches out of it. I don’t know exactly how to assemble it and didn’t want a coin door restoration project on top of my pinbot restoration project .

#3034 11 days ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Can someone please take a picture of this modification in their machine?

Basically unsolder these connections on every lamp board. I think there are 4.

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#3035 11 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Someone ripped all of the wiring and switches out of it. I don’t know exactly how to assemble it and didn’t want a coin door restoration project on top of my pinbot restoration project .

Unless the door you have is smashed beyond repair, I think it will be quicker to repair what you have. For HUO you only need to get the 3 test switches working.

#3036 11 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Basically unsolder these connections on every lamp board. I think there are 4.
[quoted image]

Right. I understand the concept, just wasn't sure what to do with the loose wires. Do i wire nut them together, solder the wires together, or what? Just want to see what the finished modification looks like.

#3037 11 days ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Did you see this post?

Thank you!! worked out perfect

#3038 10 days ago
Quoted from chaskett:

Right. I understand the concept, just wasn't sure what to do with the loose wires. Do i wire nut them together, solder the wires together, or what? Just want to see what the finished modification looks like.

Just put a wire on the wire, if there's two wires then twist together and wire nut.

#3039 10 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just put a wire on the wire

I am not sure what this means. Is this a typo?

#3040 10 days ago
Quoted from chaskett:

I am not sure what this means. Is this a typo?

Insert (nut) in the correct spot. Sorry I'm a dumbass.

#3041 10 days ago

I chose to unsolder one leg of the warming resistor for each flasher.

IMG_5556 (resized).jpg

#3042 9 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Unless the door you have is smashed beyond repair, I think it will be quicker to repair what you have. For HUO you only need to get the 3 test switches working.

It is going to a friends bar. If it is cheaper to fix, I am in, but honestly it looks like a stretch to get these wires into switches. I was feeling lazy and just figured I could switch it.

image (resized).jpg
#3043 9 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is going to a friends bar. If it is cheaper to fix, I am in, but honestly it looks like a stretch to get these wires into switches. I was feeling lazy and just figured I could switch it.
[quoted image]

If it needs the coin mechs to function you will need to talk to someone who runs a route as I am not sure what brand of door that is. But for sure you will need two coin mechs and two coin switches at a minimum.

#3044 9 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If it needs the coin mechs to function you will need to talk to someone who runs a route as I am not sure what brand of door that is. But for sure you will need two coin mechs and two coin switches at a minimum.

It is a Wico coin door. I've been looking for a set of the plastic retainers and coin mechs for mine too. I think the coin mechs are standard but even after years of searching on and off I still haven't found the retainers to hold them in place.

#3045 9 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

It is a Wico coin door. I've been looking for a set of the plastic retainers and coin mechs for mine too. I think the coin mechs are standard but even after years of searching on and off I still haven't found the retainers to hold them in place.

My games have Coinco doors and are a bit different.

#3046 9 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

It is going to a friends bar. If it is cheaper to fix, I am in, but honestly it looks like a stretch to get these wires into switches. I was feeling lazy and just figured I could switch it.
[quoted image]

Since its a Wico coin door and parts are non existence then you will have to replace it with a good used one or a new one. Either way you will need to transfer your old wiring to the new door. Let me know when you get the new parts and I can help with the rewire.

#3047 9 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Since its a Wico coin door and parts are non existence then you will have to replace it with a good used one or a new one. Either way you will need to transfer your old wiring to the new door. Let me know when you get the new parts and I can help with the rewire.

Thank you! Right now I’m thinking I will just replace it with that Williams/Bally coindoor that PinballLife sells. I can pretty easily remove the pins from the one half of the old wiring harness, and pin the new door to match the old harness. (At least I think I can).

#3048 9 days ago

If anyone does happen to have the plastic retainers for the Pinbot coin door I would be interested in buying them. I've had my Pinbot for nearly 20 years now and it would be awesome to finally put the finishing touches on it.....

#3049 9 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I chose to unsolder one leg of the warming resistor for each flasher.
[quoted image]

That works but those resisters tend to vibrate of in normal use. Doubling the strain on one lead will leave more in the cabinet.

#3050 8 days ago

I put the blue spring on my shooter because it came with the red one which everyone says is too powerful. I agree it is too much, but the blue spring can hardly make the first hole in the ramp.

I have the game set around 6.2 degrees. I’ve also noticed occasionally the ball hits something with the red spring and deflects before making it to the ramp. Are there any tricks to smooth out the shooter lane?

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