Yes, it is the same.

Not sure... oops...posted before I saw post above.

Thanks.

Anyone know where I can get one of these posts? It supports the mini playfield along the right side.

20180715_162757 (resized).jpg

WOW! What a difference! Thanks for posting.

@chaskett, I'd like to buy once of those "ADV X" stickers if you have any more. Thanks!

I realize I have several requests for stickers. Summer is in full swing and I haven't had time to make more. The kids will be back in school in a few weeks at which time i hope to make more. Stay tuned...

I should have the molds for the main ramp and the visor finished today and hope to start forming by tomorrow. Photos should be coming soon!

Working from home today ,.. hit a troublesome issue that had me fuming ,.. out to the lounge, flicked the Pinbot on, bashed off 3.5 million and controlled the universe on my 3rd game , returned to work in a much better frame of mind.

Pinball,.. Pinbot,.. jeez some days it just doesn’t get any better.

Just saying

I work from home and do the same thing Its a great stress reliever.

My Pinbot is up for sale!

Machine - For Sale

Bulletproofed Pinbot Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “I got this game as a project and spent a lot of time (and money) removing hacks and restoring it to it's original glory. I'm an electrical engineer and made this game safe to run, ...”

2018-10-20

Algonquin, IL

dudah

2,000 (OBO)

Archived after: 12 days

Viewed: 2666 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I've now made more Adv X decals. PM me for details if you're interested.

So looking a few things over to restore my pinbot. Noticed these hinges and the plywood for the neck of the backbox. I'm pretty certain that it is not original and was repaired at some point. Can anyone confirm the hinges and plywood. Maybe have a picture of what the hinges are suppose to be for this game?Thanks!

20180729_210951 (resized).jpg

20180729_211008 (resized).jpg

I'd have to take a look at mine after work to confirm the hinges but those don't jump out as wrong. It does look like the wood for the neck and base of the neck are not correct don't look like a good choice of lumber. I'd redo that section for sure.

Just ignore the image. Im not sure how that got attached and the editor doesn't seem to let me delete it. If anyone knows a way to remove them from a post please let me know.

FuseUpgrade (resized).jpg

Hey, I've accidentally posted way more embarrassing pics on the internet!! You're good! & I hope to be joining the club soon! Deposit down on a nice player's quality PB!! (With only a fewww issues )

Slowly but surely....New Pinbot (and Jackbot) pieces coming. Here are my first two masters...

IMG_1390 (resized).JPG

Should be all veneer, no drywall screws, no presswood. That's looks like a cheap rebuild.

Could not find a better picture right off the bat.

pasted_image (resized).png

Thanks for the picture I appreciate it. I'm a pretty good woodworker so it should be an easy fix when I go to restore.

Those look awesome! I’ll be all over that when I start my restore.

Hey Folks, out of curiosity what settings do you play at? Particularly the auto adjustments for things like the drop targets.
Normally I have it at set to the default 20% auto adjust but after a while it has them popping back up waaaay too fast to be any fun.

Got mine set to factory defaults. But now I am curious what others are doing too!

I tend to set those to fixed times - I don't need the game scaling software difficulty. I already have it set mechanically to tournament/bastard mode (max incline, all posts conservative, no outlane rubbers, etc). It doesn't matter if there's extra time on the targets or not - if I brick a shot I'm going to drain regardless.

I like the easier settings so its fun for everyone who steps up to play. Mine is set for Five Ball with extra balls set at 2,000,000 and each mill after. At first i had timed shots set up for infinity, but that was no fun. Now I have the planet drops set to 60 seconds and the solar value set to less. All items carry over for each ball. Of course you have to set the planet to URANUS so the score reads "REACH URANUS FOR SPECIAL" because its too damn funny. for bragging rights, its set so the high score never clears (unless i replace the battery).

So regarding solar value, should that reset each game? I feel like mine builds over multiple games. Maybe there is a setting to adjust that?

I can't believe I never thought of this!!! I will have to change that!

I'd bet that your solar value will build until it tops out at 4 million. There is no setting to turn this off - you need to burn or obtain a copy of the hacked ROMs for Pinbot. These reset jackpot ROMs exist for a number of different Sys 11 games. (I have burned and installed them in my Pinbot... plan to put them in my Swords of Fury next).

I will vouch for Statictrances ROMs. They work great in Pinbot. Took all of 5 minutes to install.

So how would one go about obtaining said roms?

I'd be happy to burn it for you if you get me a blank chip and the file.

I already have the ROM image obviously, and I have a burner etc. I've sent them out to a few people out here for $20 (covers the chips, shipping, anti-static packaging, and burning). PM me if you'd like

Thanks for the feedback! I think I will turn off auto adjust as well.

I have one installed and it works great !

Yep, me too.

I just pulled mine off route today after it developed some weird power issues. It was getting regular use so it's time to shop out anyway. Now that I have it in my shop, I want to bullet-proof while I clean her up and fix her innards.

What should I do now that I can tear her apart at my leisure? I have to track down the power issues as it won't stay on and many of the backglass GI's aren't working (electrical issue), and the displays are starting to get sketchy.

Oh and here's my list of upgrades so far:
Freeplay40's ramps/visor + chaskett's AdvX sticker
Statictrance's hacked rom
Full Cliffys
Pop bumpers need rebuilding, so I may add lights to the caps.
??? any other ideas ???

I already have white LED GI and color-matched insert LEDs (Comets) and Titan rubber. Playfield is marginal - some planking but no major wear, no mylar (holding out for a new CPR). Upper playfield is really nice, red ramp is in great shape. Cabinet paint is really, really bad. Backglass signed by Oursler!

There is also the Pinball Life mouth light baffle:

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3928

and my face light baffle:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3U4QQ3CS3/pinbot-backbox-visor-baffle-stand-alone?optionId=65240178

Anyone have an extra CPU board (working) for sale? Please pm.

I have this mounted and it does make the animation better.

My backboard was warped a bit, I used some black tape to seal the baffle to the board.

Rectifiers fused? I also installed fuses for all the special solenoids.

Finally finished my LED overhaul, using the guide from chaskett as a baseline. Links to pictures/video below.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BmAPp79guq_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Here are the few deviations/modifications I made along the way:

-2 x Red Op-Max bulbs used in the spiral ramp GI (vs the 4+1 SMD red tower)
-1 x Natural White Op-Max under the Blue ramp on the upper left (vs the standard 1 SMD Natural white GI bulb)
-1 x Ice Blue 1 SMD Frosted GI bulb in the left sling (vs the 1 SMD Blue bulb)
-3 x Red 1 SMD Frosted GI (#555) bulbs in the pop bumpers (vs the 1 SMD natural white)
-2 x 8 SMD #89 warm white flashers for left back-box fingers (vs incandescent)
-2 x 8 SMD #89 natural white flashers for right-back-box fingers (vs incandescent)
-4 x 8 SMD #89 red flashers for energy value insert (vs incandescent)
-4 x 8 SMD #89 orange/amber flashers for sun insert (vs incandescent) --- intention was to use warm white, but a stock issue forced my hand
-6 x 5 SMD #89 warm white flashers for orange domes (vs incandescent)

For the #89 LED flashers, I opted to removed the 330 ohm resistors. Info here, if anyone is looking and hasn't seen it already:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/issue-with-pinbot-flasher-circuit-when-using-led-replacement.

Thanks again for the invaluable starting point, @chaskett! Here's a link, again, for those looking and haven't yet seen:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-led-advice

Energy flasher issue:

Only 2 out of the four flashers are working. I believe that I found the resistor that is the issue because when I wiggle it all 4 flashers work. It appears that a larger resistor was replaced in place of the original (I believe this only because of the outline on the circuit board being smaller than the actual resistor that is in this spot). It looks like a 330 ohm 10 watt is in place of a 330ohm 7 watt. How much might this matter?

Using a higher wattage resistor should be fine, just not a smaller one. I think you answered your own question. When you wiggle it then it works. Poor soldering and poor repair. Just re soldering may fix it.

So it turns out that the resistor that I thought needed to be replaced wasn't the one that needed to be replaced. I am still curious about that resistor though. In the pictures that I attached you can see that it is larger than what appears to be the size of the space on the board. Does anyone know or is there a way to find out which resistors go in the correct spots?

20180803_192543 (resized).jpg

20180803_192555 (resized).jpg

The only thing not correct with the resistors on the board is that the bottom resistor is 10 watt, it should be 7 watt. They are in the correct spots. The two inner resistors can cause the lamps to not light, Each resistor is for 2 flash bulbs. You either have a bad solder joint on the resistor lead or a bad resistor itself.

Thanks. I appreciate the feedback. I replaced the top three that look newer and everything seems to be working fine now. You answered my question about that bottom one.

These newer low quality parts don't last very long.

For the record, a higher WATTAGE resistor is fine; it won't cause any issues other than fitting.

On large power resistors like that, going up is good, will help the life of the resistor..

What do the other 2 do?

Thanks, I'm a big fan of Molex over IDC. I probably should repin everything.