tanx...
this one need a bigger inspection, but its in overall good state for what i've seen before deciding myself
the cab is OK, the BG is very nice, as the playfield (still with the original mylar), scoring panels are tired, some broken plastics, as often, the big blue at the moving ramp, and the right slingshot, as the vortex ramp (get another one in good state, not new), mini playfield/plastics/plots OK, no ADV X sticker...
playing nicely, set to factory settings, 4.8M and earth reached in few tests games... the nostalgia is there ! and i love this feeling
more later (pin is not home here, but at my sister's house)
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:Just picked up this beauty last week! Already replaced most of the bulbs with color matching Super Bright LEDS and given it a very good cleaning and wax.
SOOO happy i got this pin!
Nice and welcome to the club. I have two questions.
1-The mini-playfield looks different than typical? Am I seeing that wrong? And,
2-On mine I can never get the index fingers to light on the back box like yours are. I have tried both regular and LEDs. The bulbs are good because they flash, but I never see it like you have it.
You'll find there is so much information here, that there is nothing that will happen to your machine that hasn't happened to someone before you and reported.
///Rich
Quoted from Strummy:Can someone post a pic of the clear ramp with the active x sticker on it? Thanks
Check the topic gallery. You'll find one.
Quoted from RichWolfson:Nice and welcome to the club. I have two questions.
1-The mini-playfield looks different than typical? Am I seeing that wrong?
///Rich
Backglass reflection?
Quoted from chaosrooster:my ramp has seen better days but pretty sure this is what you were looking for
Thats it! Thank you!
Pinbot
I have a techy question. I turned on the machine one Day and randomly fried the q79 and q73 transistors on the CPU, blew fuse F1 on the PS, and completely fried the upper pop bumper coil. I put a new rottendog PS in (I like to put a new PS in all my new pinballs) and I replaced the q79, q73, and the burned up solenoid coil. I checked all of the pop bumper switches and noticed the lower pop bumper switch may have been a little close/touching so I bent it slightly to increase the gap.
I then turned on the Pinbot, everything works except the pop bumpers. I noticed the Q75 transistor was really hot (I don’t think it fried, see pic, it’s to the right of the u50) and the u50 had a prong sticking out. Looking back at old picks, I think it blew at the same time as the q79 and q73 (I just missed it).
I assume I need to replace the U50 with a new DM7402N transistor, but is there anything I’m missing that could explain the constellation of symptoms? Is it possible the solenoid coil shorted which is what led to all of the fried transistors and blown fuse?
Thanks in advance!
3EEEC31C-5759-49A7-A6EC-3C5BCE5EF5EC (resized).jpegB38EAB84-5C95-4040-9390-0C919F0B9BED (resized).jpegQuoted from RichWolfson:1-The mini-playfield looks different than typical? Am I seeing that wrong? And,
2-On mine I can never get the index fingers to light on the back box like yours are. I have tried both regular and LEDs. The bulbs are good because they flash, but I never see it like you have it.
///Rich
This is my first Pinbot so you guys would know better than I. See attached picture for a better look at the mini playfield.
I haven't done anything special with the backglass but I have added some color matched LED since my last photo see attached.
I do intermitently keep getting U25 failure but it will usually go away and boot fine if you switch off and on. Luckily this unit already has a socket for U25 so I have some NVRAM coming.
20180609_074900 (resized).jpg20180609_075438 (resized).jpgQuoted from CoitusMysterioso:This is my first Pinbot so you guys would know better than I. See attached picture for a better look at the mini playfield.
I haven't done anything special with the backglass but I have added some color matched LED since my last photo see attached.
I do intermitently keep getting U25 failure but it will usually go away and boot fine if you switch off and on. Luckily this unit already has a socket for U25 so I have some NVRAM coming.
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Here's a pic at how mine is setup.
Quoted from mrWol64:Spot on,.. just what I was referring to
Nice pop bumper caps,.. are they Britecaps ? Also I see you have rubber that makes the drop to the plunger lane a bit harder.
Thank you
Yep, bright caps with a white opaque top. Now that TNA is in production they aren't listed on Pinball Life's site (at least they weren't the last time I checked.
Rubber, yep just like the flyer. I find it goes in the plunger lane enough for me.
Quoted from RipleYYY:about the ADV. X sticker, which is the correct font to use ?
If that the same as all other Pinbot fonts, that would be: (at least that is what I used to redo some lettering)
AmerType Md BT (AMERICAN TYPEWRITER BOLD BT.TTF)
https://www.dafontfree.net/freefonts-amertype-md-bt-f63160.htm
You might need to play with the spacing as I did.
Hey fellow pinbot owners! If you think you'd ever be interested in a hardtop playfield replacement, stop by the hardtop thread and cast your vote for pinbot.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread
ok, just to say (as i'm not behind the pin)
Pinbot showned a "check vortex switch 22" when powered on, and as i leveled the back legs at max since day 1, we never hit the upper hole anymore (20.000 pts), than should be an alert because that switch was not hit since X balls/games !? correct ? or of course the switch is faulty...
next time i'll go to my sister house, it will takes 1 minute to check
now, can we set off that system checking the switches ?
of course, the best way to resolve that is, if its possible, to set up better the shooter to give ball more power/speed to climb all the vortex
...
other ask : the moving wall target is not going perfectly to the PF level...
a tip to resolve this (because sometimes a ball remain blocked behind the wall, there're are 1 or 2 mm difference there) ?
of course, screws setup under PF are OK, as if i push with my finger, wall go down for few millimeters and than perfectly match the PF
than what to make the course a bit easier/longer ?
tanx in advance
Quoted from RipleYYY:ok, just to say (as i'm not behind the pin)
Pinbot showned a "check vortex switch 22" when powered on, and as i leveled the back legs at max since day 1, we never hit the upper hole anymore (20.000 pts), than should be an alert because that switch was not hit since X balls/games !? correct ? or of course the switch is faulty...
next time i'll go to my sister house, it will takes 1 minute to check
now, can we set off that system checking the switches ?
of course, the best way to resolve that is, if its possible, to set up better the shooter to give ball more speed to climb all the vortex
Yes, I think you are correct with this assumption. The switch hasn't been activated in a while so the game will show an error when booting. Try using a more powerful shooter rod spring or lowering the back legs like you mentioned.
...
Quoted from RipleYYY:other ask : the moving wall target is not going perfectly to the PF level...
a tip to resolve this (because sometimes a ball remain blocked behind the wall, there're are 1 or 2 mm difference there) ?
of course, screws setup under PF are OK, as if i push with my finger, wall go down for few millimeters and than perfectly match the PF
than what to make the course a bit longer ?
tanx in advance
For the visor chest target bank, I had the same problem. If you search around the internet, you will find this is a very common issue with Pinbot that I don't think will always need the same solution. For me, I had to replace the visor motor. Now when the visor opens, it is nearly even with the play field and the ball has not gotten stuck since. Also, I would check to see if the visor chest target switches have some foam behind them to protect them from breaking. After 30+ years of getting slammed by a pinball the foam will decay. It's a pain in the ass removing the target bank and replacing the foam but it's well worth it in the long run imo.
ok, as supposed :
- switch 22 was OK
- i've than set-up the shooter correctly, and now with slope at max, ball do climb (not always) at the top
- about the wall target, quick-easy set-up for the moment, just double-face-tape a thin transparent plastic behind, covering the space probem... now its OK in front, and its OK behind
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Hey All, anyone know a source for this ballguide wire part 12-6466-6? Marco is out. Appears to be about 1.5 inches wide. If no source, ideas on how to handcraft one? Or put a post there?
You could just order some pin stock and bend it yourself. Measure the diameter (I dont remember offhand what it is) and find it on the web. Its not hard to bend.
You can order piano wire through marco and other places and grab this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=piano+wire
https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-Bender-Wire-Forming-Tool/dp/B003DNBE10/ref=sr_1_1
Use digital calipers to get the right diameter
Quoted from dontfeed:You could just order some pin stock and bend it yourself. Measure the diameter (I dont remember offhand what it is) and find it on the web. Its not hard to bend.
Or if you have any spare wireforms sitting around that are a larger size you can chop it off and add one more bend using needle nose pliers. The straight ones are easy. Curved ones a little trickier to get the right radius, just hunt around for something to use as a mold.
I used some mechanic's wire to mock up the correct size for a missing wireform then used it as the sample to cut and bend a spare one I had on hand. Easy
Richard
I'm curious, since we are talking about the wire guides, what is the best way to remove them from the playfield, in your opinion?
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Hey All, anyone know a source for this ballguide wire part 12-6466-6? Marco is out. Appears to be about 1.5 inches wide. If no source, ideas on how to handcraft one? Or put a post there?
Funny mine was missing the same one in the same exact place. I scored some on eBay a while back from a parted out Pinbot that being sold as a lot. I believe it was all the wire guides for the game. I'll dig them up later on tonight and see if I have an extra one for you.
Thanks chaosrooster for looking! And thanks guys for the ideas, I'm gonna get the calipers out when I get home.
Quoted from metalkatt:I'm curious, since we are talking about the wire guides, what is the best way to remove them from the playfield, in your opinion?
I use a small Snap On tools slide hammer with a hook attachment.
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Thanks chaosrooster for looking! And thanks guys for the ideas, I'm gonna get the calipers out when I get home.
Yes, I do indeed have an extra one. Shoot me a PM if you still want it.
Thanks chaosrooster pm sent! I did pull out the Calipers. The ballguide wire part 12-6466-6 is .094 inches thick
Anyone got and spare plastics they are willing to part with?
Im needing:
the right slingshot plastic
plastic under the visor
the smoked lift visor
and of course the big plastic under the left ramp but I may order and modify a jackbot plastic for that one.
Quoted from jdoz2:Anyone got and spare plastics they are willing to part with?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/48#post-4447114
Looks like some may be produced soon.
Quoted from Impzilla:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/48#post-4447114
Looks like some may be produced soon.
Ya that certainly does help
Quoted from FlipMyBalls:Can someone post a photo of thier relay board just beside the visor mech under the playfield. Just double checking the wiring as i dont want to mess it up when i solder it
Thanks!
Heres what the board looks like or similiar
From the top. Black, empty, green, double red, black
20180706_171059.jpgQuoted from FlipMyBalls:Thanks jay
No problem. When did you pick up pb? Saw it beside your bsd ad.
4 months ago or so? It hasnt been working yet. Few things to fix up but it should be 100% in no time
Quoted from jdoz2:Looking for a pinbot visor if anyone has one. Mine is cracked/melted
I think freeplay40 has talked about remaking these so you should sell me your old one to help pay for your new one
Casting the mold today...
Hey All,
Just throwing out a big thank you to Freeplay40 for the beautiful pinbot ramp and chaskett for the high quality "ADV X" sticker. Definitely worth the investment!
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Hey All,
Just throwing out a big thank you to freeplay40 for the beautiful pinbot ramp and chaskett for the high quality "ADV X" sticker. Definitely worth the investment!
Those look so nice! I can't wait to get to my restoration and see if I need to do the same .
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:Hey All,
Just throwing out a big thank you to freeplay40 for the beautiful pinbot ramp and chaskett for the high quality "ADV X" sticker. Definitely worth the investment!
I'd like one of those for my Jackbot. Is it the same?
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